1st - 7th Jan 2019
Left: An example of one of the many well concealed entrances. The system, being underneath a forested area, had good visual cover from above and was very difficult for the US army to patrol without being subjected to all sorts of close-quarters attack, mines and hidden booby traps. The Cong tended to emerge at night to attack military bases and then just disappeared back into the tunnels again.
There are many reconstructions of the ingenious and lethal or, better still, painfully wounding traps to incapacitate enemy foot patrols, plus anti-personnel and anti-tank mines, deployed by the Viet Cong. The old military adage that wounding an enemy is much more effective than killing him held firm here ( one wounded soldier engages several others to help him). Right: One of several types of 'Tiger Trap'. A concealed hinged trapdoor and pit with needle sharp bamboo spikes at the bottom.
There are replicas of all the facilities that were available below ground (workshops, hospital, kitchens with elaborate systems to conceal and dissipate smoke above ground, cunning ventilation systems of which the exits above ground appear to be termite hills. There is also a shooting range where, for an exhorbitant price, you can buy ammunition to fire a variety of rifles and machine guns. It was bloody noisy and gunfire was the constant background noise during the tour.
There is an example of the tunnel system which you can go down and crawl along. You have the option of crawling along an either 40m, 60m or 100m length. It has the luxury of a dim electric light at various intervals, but still pitch dark in places. The Cong did not have this luxury. They only had candles. These (reinforced) tunnels measured 1 metre high by 1 metre wide, which is probably larger than the original, but still quite claustrophobic. A couple in our group looked as if they measured more than 1 metre wide to start with. I don't think they tried it! I was interested to know what happened if some rather large and over-ambitious tourist got stuck inside. I never found out. Perhaps they had just to wait until he/she lost weight. Right: Part of the 40 metre tunnel which I attempted, taken with a flash; it was very dark. I couldn't see the point in doing the 100 metre version as one bit of tunnel must look much like any other and would probably result in the knees of my trousers wearing through.
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| A Tunnel Rat. |
Well 2019 got off to a bad start. I had my mobile phone nicked! I was on my way to meet a friend for lunch and standing (note: not 'stood' Bernie!) on the pavement checking directions on my phone. My back to the traffic flow (big mistake!). I felt a gentle nudge on my shoulder as a scooter whizzed past from behind. I looked down and my phone had disappeared. I never even felt it leave my hand. These boys are good. I expect they go on training courses. Anyway, I was very pissed off and there's nothing much you can do subsequently.
I was well aware of this kind of bike-mounted theft consisting of a driver and a 'snatcher' but, maybe just fortunately, had not had it happen to me before over a long time in Vietnam. Probably getting complacent. These bike riding thieves also go for bags slung over the shoulder, the more expensive looking the better. I have heard stories of, mainly female, tourists being dragged along the pavement before they get away with the bag. There are many obvious precautions you should take.....but if they target you looking unwary, you are probably doomed. That's the second 'theft' I have experienced since going to Colombia in November. I am slipping up.
Hey Ho! I decided to re-visit the Viet Cong tunnel site at Cu Chi, about 50kms north-west of Saigon. I last did this about six years ago but decided to see if anything had changed. It is a very 'touristy' experience but interesting nevertheless and only a half-day excursion.
Nothing much had changed except the entrance area and other facilities (mainly souvenir shops) had been smartened up. I went in a bus with about 30 others and we had a Vietnamese guide who was actually very good and spoke decent English.
The tunnel system was constructed by the Viet Cong guerrillas and villagers from the mid 1960s and in operation until 1975 when the North Vietnamese prevailed, despite the concerted but ultimately futile attentions of the US forces. It consisted of 250kms (no less!) of tunnels under a large forested area, all dug by hand, on three levels and was effectively an underground village, including kitchens, hospitals, armouries, workshops, living accommodation and military base from which the Cong launched attacks on the US and South Vietnamese military positions. The US forces attempted to bomb, gas, flood and infiltrate the tunnels (hence the Tunnel Rats) but the devilishly cunning Viet Cong had effective counter measures to all these threats.
Left: An example of one of the many well concealed entrances. The system, being underneath a forested area, had good visual cover from above and was very difficult for the US army to patrol without being subjected to all sorts of close-quarters attack, mines and hidden booby traps. The Cong tended to emerge at night to attack military bases and then just disappeared back into the tunnels again.
There are many reconstructions of the ingenious and lethal or, better still, painfully wounding traps to incapacitate enemy foot patrols, plus anti-personnel and anti-tank mines, deployed by the Viet Cong. The old military adage that wounding an enemy is much more effective than killing him held firm here ( one wounded soldier engages several others to help him). Right: One of several types of 'Tiger Trap'. A concealed hinged trapdoor and pit with needle sharp bamboo spikes at the bottom.
Others included spikes that sprang out at you from the side, or above, or trapped your legs on downward pointing spikes so you couldn't pull them out.
There are replicas of all the facilities that were available below ground (workshops, hospital, kitchens with elaborate systems to conceal and dissipate smoke above ground, cunning ventilation systems of which the exits above ground appear to be termite hills. There is also a shooting range where, for an exhorbitant price, you can buy ammunition to fire a variety of rifles and machine guns. It was bloody noisy and gunfire was the constant background noise during the tour.
There are many dioramas showing the guerrillas engaged in various activities as per this group (left) relaxing above ground.
There is an example of the tunnel system which you can go down and crawl along. You have the option of crawling along an either 40m, 60m or 100m length. It has the luxury of a dim electric light at various intervals, but still pitch dark in places. The Cong did not have this luxury. They only had candles. These (reinforced) tunnels measured 1 metre high by 1 metre wide, which is probably larger than the original, but still quite claustrophobic. A couple in our group looked as if they measured more than 1 metre wide to start with. I don't think they tried it! I was interested to know what happened if some rather large and over-ambitious tourist got stuck inside. I never found out. Perhaps they had just to wait until he/she lost weight. Right: Part of the 40 metre tunnel which I attempted, taken with a flash; it was very dark. I couldn't see the point in doing the 100 metre version as one bit of tunnel must look much like any other and would probably result in the knees of my trousers wearing through.
We were given a small 'lunch' of hot tea and chewy tapioca (cassava?) plant which, we were told, was one of the staple diets of the underground dwellers. Pretty revolting if you ask me. I suspect they got a lot more than that even if they didn't have access to the MacDonalds and Coca-Cola on the US army bases.....but maybe they did on one of their nocturnal raids.
As mentioned the US forces had little success in destroying or even effectively neutralising this tunnel system. There were water filled 'U' bends to stop gas, some kind of blocks and drains to prevent flooding and even the bigger bombs dropped by B52s didn't seem to have much effect. Even finding the tunnel entrances using dogs was unsuccessful as they managed to camouflage their scent by somehow using US clothing and soap at the entrances and probably poisoned the dogs. If an entrance was discovered the US tried to use 'Tunnel Rats', small and rather brave US soldiers, to go down and fight underground. Of course the Viet Cong were waiting for them and inflicted untold casualties.
After all this we were shown an interesting contemporary black and white film showing the guerillas in action. Then back on the bus and home.
Left: For a souvenir; supper with two ex-colleagues in a very pleasant 'Bistro' in an outlying district of the city. There are some excellent and very 'posh' (and expensive) restaurants around town, as well as many remarkably cheap and cheerful places serving delicious Vietnamese fare. I enjoy Vietnamese cuisine. Unlike Thai food it is usually fresh (no freezers in many places) and not served so spicy that it blows your head off. You add spices to taste from numerous little bowls of the stuff.
For the most part of my time here I just enjoyed wandering around and revisiting favourite places and old friends. As I think I mentioned, there are several 'blogs' I have produced previously on Vietnam, so I would only be repeating myself to show more photos.
The main differences I noticed in Saigon are the ongoing construction of the Japanese funded 'Metro' system which is digging up some of the city centre, and the traffic. When I first went there in 2006 the traffic consisted of 80% scooters, 15%cars (mainly taxis) and 5% bicycles. It is now 60% scooters, 40% cars (mainly taxis) and you seldom see a bicycle. This town was not designed for so many cars and hence mega traffic jams at the rush hours. That's progress?
The main differences I noticed in Saigon are the ongoing construction of the Japanese funded 'Metro' system which is digging up some of the city centre, and the traffic. When I first went there in 2006 the traffic consisted of 80% scooters, 15%cars (mainly taxis) and 5% bicycles. It is now 60% scooters, 40% cars (mainly taxis) and you seldom see a bicycle. This town was not designed for so many cars and hence mega traffic jams at the rush hours. That's progress?
I am writing and posting this on my last day here and just before setting off to catch a flight back to (probably) cold wet and windy UK. Over the course of several years travelling I have suffered a few irritating losses due to thieves and pickpockets (only four thefts come to mind which isn't too bad for an 8 year period). They have all been different and I expect there will be more to come, but I hope I have learnt from each occasion. Therefore I will add below, in due course, 'Uncle Matt's Top Tips For Not Having Your Kit Nicked'. It just might save someone else from falling victim.
My losses, so far, have included: My Burmese walking stick, left on a train in Vietnam. A 'dummy' wallet pickpocketed at Oslo railway station. My Kindle swiped by a niño selling matches in Mendosa, Argentina. Money pickpocketed in Bogota, Colombia. Mobile phone, recently, by moto-snatcher in Saigon, Vietnam. I also have a friend who had his valuable Rolex watch pinched by a motorbike team in daylight on a main street in Buenos Aires and another couple who had their bag of valuables swiped in a café in Barcelona.
UNCLE MATT'S TOP TEN TIPS FOR NOT HAVING YOUR KIT NICKED
These thieves can be very skilful. If they target you, you are in trouble. Some of these tips are fairly obvious but so many people disregard them.
1. Don't display valuables in public places. Don't make yourself a target. (i.e. my friend in Buenos Aires who was walking down the street with two friends, approached from behind, watch visible with metal strap slipped off his wrist and thief onto a motorbike and away before they knew what had happened.
2. Keep valuable items/documents/money zipped up, preferably in inside zip pockets. Outside zips can be semi-secured by putting a safety-pin through the zip. Be aware of who is around you and, esp. when in crowds, keep your hands on your pockets when possible. Try to stand alone with your back against a wall or surface
4. Don't travel with valuables in a suitcase which will be put into a hold (ie bus/train/aircraft).
5. When in a hotel/hostel I do not use a room safe if provided. A dishonest member of staff could get access to this and they would think that is where your valuables are. I keep my lap-top etc. locked in a hard suitcase and leave it in the room. I always travel with a hard lockable case (also useful as a seat). Haven't had a problem with that, so far. Zips on bags, even padlocked, can easily be opened and closed without sign. I know how to do this, using only a biro!
6. When you go walkabout only take with you any valuables that you actually need. Leave any spare credit cards, phones, documents etc. locked in your suitcase. Don't, like me, get your mobile out in the street (especially Saigon!) and certainly not with your back to oncoming moto-traffic. Shoulder bags are also very susceptible to theft in this fashion with people (often women) being dragged along the street when they try to hang on. My trusty Waitrose bag does not seem to have attracted too much attention.
7. If you are with others, make sure one of them (with nothing to get nicked) walks behind you on the street and watches your back.
8. If you are tempted to have too much to drink then don't do it in an unsafe environment, especially if you are on your own. Fairly obvious, but 90% of misfortunes (and they are surprisingly rare, whatever you read) that befall tourists, mainly youngsters, i.e. theft, abductions, drownings, falling off balconies, assaults, taxi rip-offs, wandering into dodgy areas and the rest, occur when the victim is either pissed or on drugs.
9. If you might be going into a less safe area, carry a dummy wallet containing a small amount of local cash and some out of date credits cards. This could save your other cash/cards zipped up elsewhere if some bandido threatens you with 'your money or your life'. However, if some gun/knife wielding low-life does threaten to shoot/stab you, never resist. He might shoot you anyway but that's just bad luck.
10. Make up an acronym that you can recite to yourself when leaving a hotel room, train or anywhere you have been staying which lists all the things you don't want to leave behind and to check you have them with you. I use " William Wordsworth Sends Pathetic Poems Carefully Crafted By His Kinky Pet Pig". It stands for "Watch, Wallet, Specs, Passport, Papers, Camera, Computer, Books, Hat, Keys, Phone, Plugs". It has worked for me.
This list is by no means comprehensive (just things off the top of my head) and there is no way that you can protect your kit 100% from determined thieves. There is no point in becoming paranoid about losing things, but the main message is 'BE AWARE'.
My losses, so far, have included: My Burmese walking stick, left on a train in Vietnam. A 'dummy' wallet pickpocketed at Oslo railway station. My Kindle swiped by a niño selling matches in Mendosa, Argentina. Money pickpocketed in Bogota, Colombia. Mobile phone, recently, by moto-snatcher in Saigon, Vietnam. I also have a friend who had his valuable Rolex watch pinched by a motorbike team in daylight on a main street in Buenos Aires and another couple who had their bag of valuables swiped in a café in Barcelona.
UNCLE MATT'S TOP TEN TIPS FOR NOT HAVING YOUR KIT NICKED
These thieves can be very skilful. If they target you, you are in trouble. Some of these tips are fairly obvious but so many people disregard them.
1. Don't display valuables in public places. Don't make yourself a target. (i.e. my friend in Buenos Aires who was walking down the street with two friends, approached from behind, watch visible with metal strap slipped off his wrist and thief onto a motorbike and away before they knew what had happened.
2. Keep valuable items/documents/money zipped up, preferably in inside zip pockets. Outside zips can be semi-secured by putting a safety-pin through the zip. Be aware of who is around you and, esp. when in crowds, keep your hands on your pockets when possible. Try to stand alone with your back against a wall or surface
.
3. When mobile, travel with a small rucksack (with lap-top and other valuable gizmos) but guard it with your life and never leave it out of sight. Always have it in front of you and again use safety-pins to block the zips. When sitting at a table or elsewhere put your leg through the straps. If sleeping on a train/bus put it under your pillow and/or secure it to your arm/leg as appropriate. Friend of mine and his wife were sitting at a table in a Barcelona café guarding their bag, which had all their valuables in it, between them. A distraction for a nano-second and it was gone!4. Don't travel with valuables in a suitcase which will be put into a hold (ie bus/train/aircraft).
5. When in a hotel/hostel I do not use a room safe if provided. A dishonest member of staff could get access to this and they would think that is where your valuables are. I keep my lap-top etc. locked in a hard suitcase and leave it in the room. I always travel with a hard lockable case (also useful as a seat). Haven't had a problem with that, so far. Zips on bags, even padlocked, can easily be opened and closed without sign. I know how to do this, using only a biro!
6. When you go walkabout only take with you any valuables that you actually need. Leave any spare credit cards, phones, documents etc. locked in your suitcase. Don't, like me, get your mobile out in the street (especially Saigon!) and certainly not with your back to oncoming moto-traffic. Shoulder bags are also very susceptible to theft in this fashion with people (often women) being dragged along the street when they try to hang on. My trusty Waitrose bag does not seem to have attracted too much attention.
7. If you are with others, make sure one of them (with nothing to get nicked) walks behind you on the street and watches your back.
8. If you are tempted to have too much to drink then don't do it in an unsafe environment, especially if you are on your own. Fairly obvious, but 90% of misfortunes (and they are surprisingly rare, whatever you read) that befall tourists, mainly youngsters, i.e. theft, abductions, drownings, falling off balconies, assaults, taxi rip-offs, wandering into dodgy areas and the rest, occur when the victim is either pissed or on drugs.
9. If you might be going into a less safe area, carry a dummy wallet containing a small amount of local cash and some out of date credits cards. This could save your other cash/cards zipped up elsewhere if some bandido threatens you with 'your money or your life'. However, if some gun/knife wielding low-life does threaten to shoot/stab you, never resist. He might shoot you anyway but that's just bad luck.
10. Make up an acronym that you can recite to yourself when leaving a hotel room, train or anywhere you have been staying which lists all the things you don't want to leave behind and to check you have them with you. I use " William Wordsworth Sends Pathetic Poems Carefully Crafted By His Kinky Pet Pig". It stands for "Watch, Wallet, Specs, Passport, Papers, Camera, Computer, Books, Hat, Keys, Phone, Plugs". It has worked for me.
This list is by no means comprehensive (just things off the top of my head) and there is no way that you can protect your kit 100% from determined thieves. There is no point in becoming paranoid about losing things, but the main message is 'BE AWARE'.
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| The Rat and friends |
