MORE KYOTO. DAY 2

17th - 18th Oct 2019

I decided to take a look (on behalf of a reader who suggested it) at the Kyoto Railway Museum. It was within walking distance of my hotel, just west of the main station. The walk took me through Umekoji Park in which I got lost until I met a crocodile of small schoolchildren whose teacher I think said (English is not well understood outside the tourist spots)  she was taking them to the museum. So I decided to follow, and I got there. In case you are worried I am NOT a 'spotter' or 'anorak' or 'railway nerd'! Neither do I make a habit of joining in at the rear of a crocodile of schoolchildren.

Left: Incidentally I noticed several of these very well behaved strings of children at various places on their way to museums and suchlike. Each group was identified by colour coded hats...useful for the teachers to identify their little charges if they ran off. 

The museum, on three floors, is incredibly smart and modern with a large outside display area. It has many interactive displays and amusing dioramas plus a large restaurant.

Did you know that it was a Scottish gentleman, a merchant and industrialist called Thomas Glover (1838-1911), who built the first Japanese railway? He was also involved in shipping and importing things like armaments to Japan. He features quite prominently around the country as I came to discover.

There were lots of ancient and modern trains on display as you might expect, including a model of the yet to be put into service Shinkansen Alpha X. This train will travel at over 400kph.

Right: This is not it.

Left: A restaurant car serving breakfast when I went past.

Right: There is a magnificent model railway, about 40 paces in length, which runs through a complex computer controlled night and day programme featuring all kinds of train presently in service. Impressive.

Left: A pedal powered machine which ran around a rail track. Popular with the youngsters. Behind it is one of the newer bullet trains.

Right: This, as I'm sure you recognise, is a fine example of a 151 Series electric railcar hollow shaft meter type parallel Cardan driving bogie.

Left: One of several groups of hat colour-coded schoolchildren. The orange group.

Right: The turntable outside surrounded by engine sheds which were all occupied by various ancient engines.

Left: There is a working steam engine which makes short trips down a line and back taking passengers. I didn't go on it because the next trip would have delayed me and anyway I thought that it would have been a bit boring just sitting in one of the open sided carriages; going nowhere.










Right: The driver on the footplate. It made a very loud 'whistle' before setting off, and produced much steam and smoke.
....and he's wearing white gloves, of course.

Left: A display was dedicated to old and modern railway logos. There were hundreds of them. I pick out these two only because I was hoping one would read 'Kamikaze'.

For some reason there was no mention of the contribution made to Japanese railways by British and Allied  POWs in WW2.

Right: Off next to Nijo-Jo (Nijo Castle) which is near the old Imperial Palace in the north-west part of the city. It was the fortress of the Shoguns, built in 1603 and surrounded by a moat and substantial walls 

Left: The moat was teeming with carp which swarmed to the surface, mouths agape, if anyone chucked a bit of bread in. I noticed some small children who thought this was fascinating and, not having any bread to throw in, threw in pebbles instead. I don't think the fish can have been very impressed. The greediest ones probably sank.

There is an impressive palace inside which housed the Shogun and his entourage to demonstrate the Shogun's prestige and to signal the demise of the Emperor's power. 

One walked around a series of long (squeaking) passageways past many rooms which were mostly empty but had elaborate murals on the walls (left). We were informed that most of these were replicas; the originals are in a museum. Again, photography was strictly prohibited.

The Shogun was a bit paranoid about security and as a precaution he had 'nightingale' floors fitted which make squeaking noises when you walk on them making it difficult for any intruders to move about quietly, as well as concealed chambers where bodyguards could keep watch. They certainly did squeak a lot.

One room (right) had some figures in it supposedly representing outlying Provincial leaders being addressed by their boss. 

Around the Palace are some rather magnificent gardens (left) and there is a pleasant 'tea shop' where I stopped to enjoy a cup of tea and tasty bit of cake with jam and thick cream. Their equivalent of a Cornish scone I suppose.

Right: Just outside the castle is a shop selling Samurai swords. There was a large selection and a security buzzer to get in.

.....with good reason as some of them were very expensive. This one (left) had a price tag of 270,000 Yen (over £2000). 

Right: There are lots of these box-like cars about the town. I also noticed them in Yokohama and Kushiro. They are of different makes; ugly, but are obviously very popular,

On walking back to the station I also saw this gentleman driving a Morgan (left) out of a garage. He was more than happy for me to take the photo and I rather hoped he would give me a lift. No such luck.










Wherever you walk the chances are you will pass a garden like this (right). They like their gardens with trees, ponds and ornamental bridges. They don't much go in for flowers.
My garden specialises in weeds.

The following morning I decided to take a stroll up to the Higashi-Hongan-ji, the Eastern Temple of the True Vow. It is just north of the railway station. I was told the Buddhist monks there do a lot of 'chanting'. Unfortunately, as I discovered, they do it at 6.00am which is an inconvenient time of day because I am asleep then.

Left: The main gate.

Right: The grandiose buildings inside. The Main Hall is supposed to be the second largest wooden structure in Japan. Again, photography inside is strictly forbidden and there are 'wardens' to watch you.

Left: In the courtyard is this drinking fountain with an elaborately carved statue of a swan (I think) at one end. The water comes out of its beak. You are meant to take a sip of water using silver spoon-like things left on the side (on chains!) and presumably offer up a prayer, or something. I did and, so far, have not suffered any ill effects.

Right: Inside the Main Hall. Many empty rooms with murals but the main one houses lots of Buddhas including this big one sitting on his throne surrounded by very gaudy golden decoration. I expect this is where the monks do their chanting.

Kyoto is a pleasant city, I concluded, with many interesting things to see and do.

I departed on the 11.46am Shinkansen for Hiroshima. More to come from there.

MORE KYOTO. DAY 1

16th Oct 2019

Kinkaku-ji temple. World Heritage site.

Kyoto was the original Imperial Capital of Japan before the Shoguns took over for a period before the Emperor was reinstalled, in Tokyo, in the 19th century. It is full of Buddhist temples (about 1000 of them) and Shinto shrines (400 odd). 

I made a touristing plan for the day which was to start at the Kinkaju-ji temple to the north-west of the city as it was advertised as one of Japan's best-known sites. This involved a train and bus journey which took about an hour. On the short walk from the bus stop there was a pedestrian crossing plus the normal red/green lights but also (quite unnecessarily) a couple of pedestrian wardens who escorted you over the crossing (left). They wore white gloves. Of course!

Right: The temple main hall, covered in gold leaf, 'lying across a tranquil reflecting pond' is advertised as 'truly spectacular'. Frankly, I couldn't see what all the fuss was about. A close up (at top) shows what looked to me like a couple of Porta-cabins surmounted by two more gold painted ones with fancy roofs. You couldn't go inside.

Left: However there was a mass of tourists gawping at it and taking photos. At this point I decided to take my faithful companion The Rat out of my bag for a photo opportunity. He wasn't there. He had disappeared. How? Where? I hadn't put down my bag anywhere and not even taken anything out of it! The Rat seemed to have 'done a runner'. I was very distressed. It can't have been stolen surely, and I had definitely had it when I left the hotel. This put a damper on the day. Rat had been with me worldwide for 10 years. How come he decided to vanish now.

No amount of thinking left me any wiser as to where he could have gone so I continued with the walk around the temple area. There were some attractive gardens, lakes and a sort of shrine with a long pole and gong outside it (right). I had rather lost interest.

Back to Kyoto main station and to my hotel to check The Rat had not been left behind. No sign. So, despondently, to the British Pub for a consoling beer and fish 'n chips lunch.

Next off by bus to the south-east of the town to the Sanjusangen-do temple. Another much vaunted ancient sight.

After a 800 Yen entrance  fee (all these places have an entrance fee) I entered a complex of seemingly innocuous buildings such as the one here (left) with groups of schoolchildren being escorted around.

Right: Plus this little shrine.

Left: In the middle of the compound is this long shed.

On entering it was shoes off and we had to put them on a row of numbered shelves. I made a note of the number! You could spend hours searching amongst hundreds of pairs of shoes if you didn't.

Right: Inside it was quite fascinating. There are ranks of life-size 'Kannon' statues, 1001 of them, plus 32 elaborately carved 'Deities'' standing in front plus a large central 'Kannon' with lots of arms. These things were carved out of wood, originally from 1164 AD. I'm not exactly sure what a Kannon is, I think it is some sort of Buddha disciple (look it up on Wikipedia if you are that interested). It is certainly a Buddhist temple.
Photography was strictly forbidden so I had to use my camera covertly (this is where my plastic bag comes in useful).

There is also some connection here with Samurai warriors and once featured great archery competitions. The rafters of the building are apparently peppered with arrow shafts and bits of the building look like they have porcupine quills sticking out.

Then by Kyoto Underground (cheap and efficient) up to the Gion district near the Kamo River which runs north-south through the city. Hananami-Koji street here is a tourist magnet and features 'ye olde worlde' Japanese wooden houses plus lots of souvenir shops. It used to be the area for Geishas and 'knocking shops'.
PS. Just been told it still is!

Left: Plus lots of 'ye olde worlde' ladies wearing their kimonos (ex-Geisha?).




Then across the bridge to Pontocho Street. A long narrow street running alongside the river which contains numerous bars and restaurants. Another tourist hot-spot. I went to an upstairs tiny little 'Craft Beer' bar. It was very expensive as, I discovered, were all the  bars/restaurants here.














To give you an idea of the most expensive kind this (left) was the menu outside what I suppose is a Kobe Wagyu beef emporium.
A 250g steak (plus veg and ice-cream) at 27,500 Yen. That is about £212.00! Not including the 15% extra charges. Incredible. I started to look, much against my principles, for a MacDonalds.













The place was also very strict on making sure there were no freeloaders, including babies. Not the sort of place for a family supper in my opinion. I mean....how can any bit of meat be worth that price? Cheaper to eat the babies.


So that was my first 'day of culture' in Kyoto. There are hundreds of places of interest listed in my guide so I will only be able to take a dekko at a select few.

Then back to the British Pub for a beer and chicken and chips. I haven't made a great start on Japanese cuisine so far.

If anyone happens to be visiting Kyoto please keep a look out for this little lost Rat. It may be somewhere between the railway station and the Kinkaku-Ji temple to the north-west of the city. I alerted the Lost Property Office at the railway station (they were very sympathetic), the Tourist Info Offices, a couple of cafés I had visited and even the local Police Station (it's recorded in a register there).

KYOTO. INTRO.

15th - 18th Oct 2019

View over Kyoto from the railway station roof garden.

Armed with my Japan Rail Pass I set off from Shin-Yokohama station heading west to Kyoto on one of the Shinkansen (translates as 'new main line') trains (left) known colloquially in the west as 'Bullet Trains', and with good reason. They don't arse about, travel at up to 320km/hr and are always smack on time.

Right: The interior. It's like travelling on a rail-bound jet aircraft with similar windows (the carriages are pressurised) plus a trolley-dolly refreshment service. The conductor, smartly dressed with peaked cap and white gloves (all kinds of drivers and public functionaries wear white gloves it seems) enters the carriage gives an announcement and bows politely before checking tickets, and also on his/her way out. Extraordinary! Actually he didn't check many; not mine anyway.

Between Yokohama and Kyoto the train never seemed to leave a built up area, with mountains to the north. If there was something interesting to photograph it would have been hopeless to try, even though it was a silky-smooth ride, due to the speed we were travelling. It took about 2½ hours to reach Kyoto including three intermediate stops.

Left: The cavernous railway station hall at Kyoto. There were about eight floors including a rooftop garden, a 'sky-walk' and an enormous subterranean shopping 'mall'. Fortunately there are lots of escalators and lifts and at least two Tourist Information Centres. The staff manning these (predominantly ladies) are almost obsequiously polite, smartly dressed, charming and very efficient. So far there has never been any shortage of places to get good advice. Pay attention UK!

Plus many restaurants and coffee shops. Right: This one, which I used on a couple of occasions subsequently, called Pie Face, sold the most delicious variety of small pies with funny faces drawn on them (sorry, no mash Bernie. Bring your own).










As is my normal practice I only looked for accommodation on arrival. On one of the internet sites I found another APA hotel, the Kyoto Ekikita which was again v cheap (£45pn) and, as I discovered, was much smaller but up to the same high standard as the one in Yokohama. It was also within easy walking distance from the station, which I used as my 'hub'.

Left: The Kyoto Tower which provides a very useful and visible landmark when trying to negotiate the city using a rather vague tourist map. The viewing platform is at 100 metres AGL.

Another interesting discovery was the pedestrian crossing system. Controlled by red/green illuminated hands, often red for a considerable time even on the smallest crossings, it is definitely not the done thing to cross when red even if there is no traffic in the vicinity. I think the locals, being somewhat robotically trained, would think it just plain bad manners if you did. When they go green they make a very amusing 'tweet...tweet, tweet' birdy noise with an accompanying 'ping pong pong' sound.

My hotel was close to the British Pub (right) which makes a change from the ubiquitous Irish Bars. It was a very popular venue and, especially in the evening, attracted, as you might imagine, a lot of British (plus other travelling rugby supporting foreigners) even though while I was here there were no World Cup matches being played. It sold 'pints' of various ales and things like 'fish 'n chips'. Used more at lunchtime by Japanese it had a well ventillated smoking area. Smoking is not universally banned here, even some of the trains have smoking carriages. I don't smoke, but I rather approve of that for some reason. My 'anti petty rule' nature I suppose.


Left: In fact it got really packed late on with a good humoured crowd. The 'house' beer is Hub Ale. Not bad even at 900 Yen per pint (about £7).
Most of the beers around town cost this.

Goodness knows what it is like when there is a televised rugby match on. There had obviously been some fairly rowdy evenings which resulted in this sign on the front door.
I dread to think of the reaction if they dare switch off the TVs at a crucial moment!

One minor irritant in this country is that they, as per that tiresome American habit, put prices on things and then add a 10% tax and sometimes a 'service charge' on top when you come to pay. On occasions they do say 'tax included', but not often.

Another thing I had forgotten (or never knew) is that they very sensibly drive on the left here, as in Thailand (as well as many ex-British colonies of course). I can understand why ex-Brit countries do so and the underlying original reason, but I'm not sure why Japan does. I am unreliably told it is something to do with Samurai warriors and their swords. Indeed, purely out of interest, there are (only) two countries in the Americas which drive on the left; Guyana and Surinam (ex-Dutch colonies as per Indonesia). Its an interesting subject and I have done a bit of research....but enough said here.

Left: A view of the city to the north-west from the viewing platform on the Kyoto Tower. 1200 Yen to go up. I can't resist going up these things.

I visited the helpful Tourist Info Office at the railway station on a few occasions. They began to recognise me with a "Con ishy wah Matthew san" (probably through gritted teeth). One question I asked was "how did the tropical storm 'Hagibis' affect you". They said that it didn't really. There was some rain and cloudy weather but nothing special. There had been some serious flooding in an area to the north-west of Tokyo and from which the press gleaned their apocalyptic footage, but on the whole, and certainly in the south of the country, there was no problem. There was a lot of opinion from the rugby community in the pub that cancelling games last Saturday was an over-the-top reaction to over-the-top scaremongering by forecasters and the media (it sells newspapers). The previous typhoon at the beginning of September was much worse, they said.


Left: By the way, lots of locals stroll around dressed in these traditional kimonos. It's not a fancy dress parade, it is just what a fashionable girl about town chooses to wear, and I think they look very smart. Rather more so than the traditional British garb of T-shirt and baggy shorts.









Right:.......and the blokes do too!

Anyway, this is purely an intro to Kyoto (and Nippon in general, as its called here). I've been busy touristing and much more to report from various sites to follow, including one sad major disaster......