ENCORE LISBON

 17th - 18th Jul 2023

St. George's Castle, Lisbon

Back in Lisbon, and I decided to take a wander (by tram) up the hill to St. George's Castle. On getting there I even decided to pay for a guided tour; not something I do often.

Left: Our guide ( the chap in the red shirt), and I've forgotten his name, something like 'Olé' I think. He was very charming and like most guides was keen to wax lyrical and enjoyed an audience to show off his wit and knowledge. He spoke good understandable English.

Right: A statue outside the castle of, I think, King Manuel 1 (1469 - 1521). There were a lot of peacocks around the place...no photos of them.

Apparently the castle was established in the 10th century by the Moors. The Portuguese and Christian armies eventually 'captured' it in 1147 by virtue of laying siege to it. The Moorish inhabitants just died off or ate each other. We were told to disregard all the info regarding the legendary Martim Mariz and his heroic attack. A myth, apparently.

Left: The front door. Originally there was a drawbridge, now replaced by the bridge you see here. Our guide spent ages (too long) posing us questions about how any attacking force could forcibly gain entry. There is a deep moat around the base, which in the old days, was filled with water and sewage. Our tour victims suggested battering rams, catapults, ballistics, trebuchets, ropes etc. etc. These were all discounted as impractical. Yours truly came up with the obvious idea of just buying a ticket at the ticket desk. This 'smart-arse' suggestion was not particularly well received. In fact the castle was never forcibly entered or 'stormed'. The Moorish inhabitants just died off under siege.

We were given a lot of blurb about things in the castle, such as what would happen if some enemy did invade it (which they didn't). One thing I learnt was that all narrow spiral staircases in old fortified buildings (and this is true worldwide) are constructed clockwise going up. This is because invaders would normally be right-handed and hold their weapon on the inside, and thus unable to use it effectively. Right: The passageway which runs all around the battlements. I walked around the entire top level.

Left: A view south over the city from one of the (re-enacted) gun positions (it never had any originally). This castle was actually reduced to rubble during the 1755 earthquake. What you see now is, basically, a magnificent reconstruction.

Right: A view of part of the 'reconstructed' outside walls.

Back to reality. Left: Another mandatory 'Oirish Bear' in Lisbon. Apart from India, and perhaps China, Pakistan and North Korea, every city worldwide hosts them. The Irish Bar is an an Irish international success story. This, O'Gilins Irish Bar, claims to be the original in Lisbon.

Right: It was packed with a very raucous crowd.

I mentioned previously about the old Portuguese colonies and which, like Britain, has since attracted many ex-colonial natives to emigrate to their 'home' colonist's countries. I found it interesting to note that many, presumably Africans, still congregate as a group here in Lisbon. In this case (left) at Rossio Plaça there was a large gathering of Africans (I assume). Peoples, of whatever background, race and culture understandably tend to stick together.

Right: A grand statue of, I think, King João I, in Rossio Plaça. I have never seen a city with so many 'grand' statues!

Left: A very talented, tuneful and amusing group of girl students performing on Rua Augusta. They very jolly and obviously well rehearsed. Great fun to watch. I spoke to one of them who told me that they were economics students from university in Coimbra. I have a video of this, but cannot download it from my present location. I will do so when I get home. Worth watching.

They were interrupted in a part of their performance by a drunk wassock who staggered around in front of them, pretending to dance, drinking from a tin of beer. They carried on regardless. What a t@@t! I have a video of that also, but will publish when I can.

Right: Portugal is renowned for it's 'Fado' music. I booked in to a 'Fado' evening performance (cost 19 Euro). It was most enjoyable, and we, the audience of about 40, were each given a complimentary glass of wine (or port). It lasted for just over an hour,

Left: The performers. There were two guitarists who were supremely skillful and played the most intricate music, seemingly effortlessly. Plus two singers; a man and a woman. It was a very jolly and entertaining performance. Again, video to follow when I get the opportunity back home. You will enjoy it!

Right: Downtown Lisbon with my new best friend.

Left: An amusing (mobile) Fado shop display. I'm not quite sure what they were selling.

Right: Another one of those 'living statue' performers. She stood rock-still without even blinking an eyelid despite people coming up and waving in her face...until someone put some money in her collection box. She then came to life and gave the donor a smile and a small flower. I think I've lost mine.

That is about all from me from Lisbon which is a most attractive and entertaining city. It is easy to get around town using the Metro and tram system, once you have sussed it out. I could have done much more, such as visit several museums but, largely through idleness, didn't. Off to Porto (or is it Oporto...not sure) next.

A DAY IN CASCAIS

 16th Jul 2023

One of the beaches at Cascais

Originally a small fishing village in the 15th century, Cascais was transformed by the Lisbon aristocracy and royalty into a beach-side holiday town for the wealthy. By the 19th century it featured many Grand Houses and hotels. It is still a 'magnet' for seaside loving tourists and locals, if no longer royalty and aristocracy.

The town lies about 25 miles west of Lisbon on the Atlantic coast and a 30 minute  train ride from Cais do Sodré station. I had a slight hiccup here as, when buying the train ticket, I left my trusty green Waitrose 'bag for life' on the ticket desk (I've had it for 5 years, bought for 30p when Waitrose made good plastic bags). It contained things like my guide book, maps, notebook and, crucially, my hat. I only realised I had left it 15 minutes later and the train was due to depart in 10 minutes. I rushed back to the ticket desk, didn't see the bag and barged in front of the queue to ask the ticket man if he had seen it (more in hope than expectation). He went into a room behind him and reappeared with my bag! Another helpful Portuguese. I just managed to catch the train.

My Lonely Planet guide book suggested getting off the train at Monte Estoril, one stop short of Cascais, to 'experience a delightful 1.5km walk along the seafront past attractive cafés and impressive stately houses'. So I did. I saw the 'delightful' seafront promenade 50ft down from the platform. Unfortunately there appeared to be no way to get down there, short of deploying a rope and tackle. I searched, but eventually found myself walking along the busy main road into town. I'm beginning to lose faith in my Portuguese Lonely Planet (see previous blog for previous whinge).

Left: One of the 5 main beaches along the seafront. They were all busy with paddling, sunbathing holiday-makers. All the large sunshades and loungers were fully occupied. I'm not sure how you acquired one. Perhaps get there at dawn and, having got one, make sure it is permanently occupied, even overnight, for the duration of your stay. Many took their own little sunshades as you can see here.

Right: Another beach. The promenade behind the beaches was lined with cafés and bars which, being a non-paddler and non-sunbather, I made use of. I had a rather good lunch of steak and chips.

Left: A rocky pool. There were quite a few kite-surfers, yachts and canoeists off-shore. I was told this part of the coast can be renowned for it's large 'surfing' waves, as per the town of Nazaré, about 50 miles north, which holds the world record for the biggest 'surfing' wave ever. Here the sea was calm as a millpond. I was encouraged to visit Navaré, but didn't on the basis that if I got there the sea would be as flat as a pancake. It must be seasonal.

Right: Examples of some of the 'grand' houses which lined the streets, mostly now converted into hotels or apartments.

Left: There is a medieval castle, or the remains thereof, at the western side of town. The renovated outer walls are there and I went inside for a look. The centre is now just a large open square sided with a couple of cafés and an art gallery, so not very inspiring or photographic. I had a cup of coffee and left. On the seafront outside are four enormous marinas housing hundreds of yachts and other vessels. This photo of one of them shows the southern castle wall in the background.

Right: Standing ouside the castle wall is this statue of a chap who reminded me a bit of Captain Mainwaring of Dad's Army fame. The plaque beneath read 'Homenagem do Municipio de Cascais ao Rei D Carlos 1' (1863 - 1908). I am none the wiser.

Left: The pretty town Square and, again, those intricate mosaic patterned floors. This one really gives a wavy 3D effect. This town was packed with visitors. As always my photos don't seem to show this. I suspect I wait for people to get out of the way before I take a photo. Believe me, it was busy.

Right: Inside the old town there is a maze of small streets with wall-to-wall restaurants, bars and cafés, which were busy. Believe me, despite the photo.

Left: The mandatory Oirish Bear, Cooley's. I looked in and it didn't even serve Guiness. The patrons must have vanished when I picked up my camera.

Right: I had a refreshing glass of wine on the roof-top of the weirdly and inexplicably named establishment called 'House of Wonders'. That's why I went in. There was nothing particularly 'wonderful' about it as you bought your drink on the ground floor and then had to carry it up four flights of stairs to the top, and there wasn't even a good view. I didn't spill a drop.

Left: Another small and pretty square with yet another statue of another deceased dignitary, or perhaps they just make them for decoration.

So that was Cascais. It obviously has  great appeal for tourists, especially at weekends, and I noticed many Americans there, as well as other 'foreigners'. Pleasant though it is I felt most of a day spent there was more than enough for me.

Back on the train to Lisbon for a quiet evening after all that excitement. Actually, I did my laundry in a laundrette  and then had a game of Pool with an unwitting victim in the 'local' near my hotel called 'The Shisha Bar'. Interesting place, where several customers puff away on those 'middle-eastern' shisha pipes. I didn't try it, but they serve respectfully cheap wine and beer.

A TRIP TO BÉLEM

 15th Jul 2023

'Monument of the Discoveries' in Bélem

Bélem is a south-western suburb of Lisbon on the bank of the River Tagus where it joins the Atlantic Ocean. It is a 20 minute tram ride west from the Cais do Sodré Metro station. It is famous as the port from which most of the early Portuguese Navigators set sail. More about them later. It also contains many ex-palaces (now mainly museums) and grand parks and gardens. A very 'elegant' neighbourhood.

Left: The Presidential Palace is on the eastern end of town. I happened to pass as they were 'changing the guard' which was done with exemplary 'drill' and panache.

Right: A sentry in his box. Very smart, although I'm not so sure about his 'shades' and scruffy facial hair.

Left: A vast and elaborate piece of architecture, this is a monastery, the 'Mosteiro dos Jerónimas' which takes up an entire block. It features highly in the guide books as a 'National Pantheon'; whatever that means. There was a 200yd queue to get in. I wasn't prepared to wait that long, so what is inside is a mystery to me. A monks' striptease show? A shopping 'mall'? I doubt it. Look it up.

Their are several large museums, I rather carelessly missed the 'Quake' museum which puts on a 'big one', the '1755 Great Earthquake Simulator'. Apparently it is most impressive. However, I did visit the Maritime Museum which is a vast three sided edifice on two floors and also features a Planetarium which requires a separate ticket. Right: The entrance to the Maritime Museum.

The history of Portuguese maritime exploration, trade and colonisation is extraordinary. It far pre-dates anything us Brits did, or any other nation for that matter. Despite the likes of our Francis Drake, James Cook and Ernest Shackleton etc., the Portuguese feature, by far, the greatest maritime explorers dating from the early 15th century. Just Google 'list of maritime explorers' and be amazed!

Left: Starting in the early 1400s, with such dodgy looking vessels as these, the likes of Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan and lots more. established the most impressive world-wide routes. Even the Italian navigator Christopher Columbus was trained by the Portuguese.

Right: By the 16th century the Portuguese had established these routes (and colonies). 'Click on' to enlarge. It is quite amazing. They were also the front-runners in inventing maritime navigational instruments.

Left: A statue of Vasco da Gama. The museum contained models of all the significant ships throughout the ages. I won't bore you with many subsequent photos. There were hundreds.

After a long tour through the ages and , as said, hundreds of displays, it ends with a modern Portuguese frigate housing a Lynx helicopter, with which I am somewhat familiar.

The Planetarium was a separate exhibition which had complex 3D cinematic displays of various happenings in space. I didn't have time.

Left: Part of the King's sitting-room, featuring a piano, on the Royal Yacht circa 19th century. There was much more detail than this, and also of the Queen's quarters. Very luxurious.

Right: These rusty bits of metal were, the blurb told us, the anchors recently recovered (in 2014?) from Christopher Columbus' ship, the Santa Maria, which sank off Haiti in 1492. Who knows!

The museum had a separate hall exhibiting 'barges' and early seaplanes. Left: The Portuguese Royal Barge built in 1778 for Queen Maria. Apparently it was still afloat more recently because our Queen Elizabeth 2 was given a ride in it. It was propelled by 80 oarsmen (and perhaps an outboard motor?)

Right: Various early seaplanes from the Portuguese Navy. I failed to make a note of what they are.

I was in this museum for over two hours. I am no nautical buff or enthusiast, but found it fascinating and so well displayed. Left: Just for the benefit of my 'scrutiniser' at OMPITA, I attach this portrait of a famous Portuguese admiral. I was interested at the time but failed to make a note of who he was (WW1 era?). A reward of Pie 'n Mash if the answer is forthcoming.

Right: The ubiquitous 'tuk-tuks' providing transport around town. There were also 'horses and carriages' which clip-clopped along the streets carrying, probably wealthy, tourists. I walked.

Left: The Torre de Bélem. A fortified and armed tower (Unesco Heritage site) on the western entry to the port which protected the place from nasty hostile incomers. Built in the 15th century and of very extravagant design. It has 4 storeys open to the public.

The lower level houses a battery of guns with a 180º coverage of the approach to the harbour area. I'm not sure if these guns were ever used in anger.

One had to queue (there were big groups of tourists) to get from one floor to the next to let those above come down before the next group could go up or vice-versa. It took ages and, frankly, the views from the floors were all similar. The floors were all splendidly built with much decorative 'regal' architecture and all served some purpose or other. The top one was a chapel. The builders in those days, when you could get them of course, were impressive.

Right: A view east down the harbour front. As I came to discover this river front (on the Tagus) all the way down past Lisbon is, and always was, host to thousands of boats of various size and shape. Not so many galleons nowadays.

Left: A seaplane mounted near the Tower from, I believe, just after WW1. It was put there to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Portuguese Naval aviation, I think. There is a 'dummy' pilot in the cockpit.

Right: The Monument to the Discoveries, built to celebrate all the extraordinary navigators and explorers who carved out the extensive Portuguese trade routes and subsequent colonies worldwide from 500 years ago. It had a lift to the top which, of course, I took and it afforded some good views. There is a museum in the basement to show the old dictator António Salazar's (in power 1932 - 1968) efforts on the world exhibition stage to equal his other contemporary 'dictators', ie. Franco, Mussolini, Hitler etc. Mr Salazar has rather 'mixed' revues! I'm not sure what that 'museum' was meant to prove.

I often use a 'Lonely Planet' guide book to give me a 'heads up' in these places. They are normally very objective and useful. One thing that rather pissed me off is that the Portuguese version used four pages to disparage Portuguese 'colonial history' and their use of slaves, presumably written by a woke 'lefty' contributor. This business of condemning past empires of colonialism and slavery seems to be popular nowadays. I think it is misguided and pointless. All previous successful and powerful nations back in the olden days (ie. over 200 years ago) had colonies and used slaves; Romans, Greeks, Persians (now Iran), Austro-Hungarians, even the Muslim Moors who colonised tracts of Spain and Italy (and Portugal). It was considered acceptable, indeed normal, at the time. OK, not now of course, but the British with their Empire and, indeed, the Portuguese come in for more flack than most from the Lefties. What are they now supposed to do about things that happened hundreds of years ago? Put themselves in jail? Self flagellate? Disband? The critics don't seem to go for the Romans, Greeks, Persians (Iran) Austrians etc. nor even slavery currently existing in some nations of the world, in quite the same way! I believe some Empires, including the British one, did more good than harm and we should be proud of it. Yes, some terrible and brutal things were done (it was a more brutal world then), and national profit and power was gained from it, but I remember touring India where so many Indians (and Pakistanis) are actually grateful for much of the infrastructure, legal systems, buildings, technology, military know-how and traditions which we left (and cricket of course). The same could be said of Africa, and many other countries previously colonised by more technically advanced nations. After all, the Romans taught us Brits a few good lessons (see Monty Python..."what did the Romans ever do for us...apart from the laws, the aquaducts, the roads etc. etc. sketch). Maybe there is a 'cut-off' date to criticise. Anyway, this is a contentious subject I suppose, and certainly not what one wants to read about in the Lonely Planet guide book!

Left: A view of the splendid mosaic forecourt beneath the monument. Someone spent a lot of time and effort making this!

Right: A rather elaborate Japanese construction in a park nearby (presumably Japanese? or maybe Burmese? or whatever?). I'm not sure what the connection is. Maybe they sell sushi there at weekends, or worship Buddha occasionally.

Left: A tall monument in the splendid park. A statue to Prince Alphonse el Grande Pouffe? Before launch? Haven't a clue!

There was so much to see in Bélem; more museums than you can shake a stick at and I only scratched the surface. 

Having embarked on this trip around Portugal I am becoming overwhelmed by things to see and talk about. I find it a fascinating country which is more than you may think of my wafflings.

PS. An extraordinary 'work of art' on a wall outside the 'Museu de Art Popular'. It is supposed to represent a raccoon's head in 3D.