NORTH UP TO HUALIEN

 18th - 21st Dec 2023

A jolly character opposite an army barracks in Hualien.

Hualien is another city on the east coast, about 140 miles north of Taitung. On the bus (there were only 4 of us on it) to the Taitung railway station, a charming old couple gave me a bunch of grapes. In return, forever generous, I gave them a sweet I had bought in Guanshan.

The train journey, as always smack on time, took 2hrs 30mins and we arrived at 2.37pm.

Left: This large 'canoe' was at Taitung railway station. I can't remember what its significance was.

I had booked into a 'hotel' called the 'Huang Yi'. It was a 20 minute walk from the station (no Metro in HuanIien, and thanks to Google Maps). I had rather missed, or wasn't told, that this was another of those places with no reception (as per Tainan). I try to avoid them....all comms are by 'internet' and if you don't, or can't, pick up messages you are in trouble. As it happened there was, by chance I think, a rather unhelpful lady who didn't speak much English at an office at the hotel. I must admit I was somewhat irritated and grumpy due to the 'no reception' bit and I probably irritated her. Eventually I managed to establish a WhatsApp connection with the 'owner' or 'manager' who sent me the code to get into my room. From then on things were fine. The room was magnificent and I even managed several WhatsApp 'chats' with the 'owner/manager' who was very helpful answering my queries and even amusing with it! It turned out (because I was sent a photo) that the 'owner/manager' was a very attractive young lady called Loffeya. I never met her. Thanks Loffeya!

I spent the rest of the day wandering around the city. Again, much the same as with the other major towns and cities, it boasted similar myriad shops but very few inviting 'hostelries'. There is a wide main street running down the centre. The 'hotel' was a bit of a hike from anywhere useful. I found a 7-Eleven relatively nearby to get supplies and, eventually, a very good bar/restaurant on the main drag. Oh, and the weather had improved since leaving Taitung!

Right: This was the excellent Salt Lick restaurant/bar. It had a good variety of 'craft' beers and an extensive menu. There was also a Brazilian waiter here who spoke good English, which was a great help.

As an aside, there were several, mainly youthful, Western tourists that I saw in most of the places I visited. I can't help comment: Why is it that nowadays, wherever you go, 98% of all Western males between the ages of 18 - 50 sport a scruffy 'unshaven' facial stubble? ( and maybe some females too!). Not proper well maintained beards, but just a messy, dirty, grotty looking unkempt growth. I think the same is true in UK where even some of our MPs and top professionals adopt this unsavoury appearance! It looks incredibly unattractive, to me anyway, and suggests they are thoroughly idle and just can't be bothered to shave in the morning. What are they trying to prove? Do the ladies like it? If this is the latest 'fashion' I hope it doesn't last long. It irritates me. Perhaps I am a bit old-fashioned but "standards, dear boy, standards!" matter to me. The photo above gives a typical example (click on to enlarge). The only 'fashion' that irritates me as much is the wearing of the dreadful face-mask, but then I suppose face-masks would cover up the unsightly stubble. There is a dilemma here!

Again, like Taitung, Huanlien is a hub for travel to outlying National Parks in the rugged mountainous countryside to the west. The most significant and visited area being the Taroko Gorge. I decided to take a bus to have a look. Right: Our bus, very comfortable, took over an hour with several stops to get to the Taroko Gorge base station. 

It passed initially down the seaside park to the north of the city. I got a brief glimpse from the bus (left) and it looked most attractive with a clear blue sea, a clean sandy beach, beachside facilities and well manicured lawns with various statues etc. (plus the odd 'fortification' and pill box!). I did, however, read that the sea here has dangerous rip-tides and currents. I didn't manage to visit, and anyway the weather from this afternoon onwards turned rainy and cold. Bah!

Right: We passed over several wide dried-up river-beds......

Left:.......and up into the hills.

Right: This poor photo of a map of the area shows the extent of the gorge. I have circled the small area which I visited and 'nearly' completed two 'trails'. There are a many trails over a large area either side of the River Liwu and I only scratched the surface. I had missed out, I was informed, on many spectacular waterfalls and caves and probably much more in other areas....but you could spend a week or more here and not see it all, and end up rather footsore. I was pretty knackered after about 4.5 hours walking. It might help if you click-on to the photo to enlarge.

There was one very short flat 'trail' around the Taroko base station, but that was all about flowers and pretty boring with some rather old Japanese tourists dithering along. I decided to do the interconnected Xiaozhuilu and Shakadang trails. Before setting off I was advised by a lady at the information centre that the nearest, Xiaozhuilu trail, was rough and steep at the start and suggested that I might like to take a shortcut through a road tunnel to avoid the initial difficult part. What a blow to my morale. Well, I might look a bit decrepit but I wasn't having that! So, following well marked signs, I set off, on the 'difficult' bit.

The Xiaozhuilu trail did indeed test me. The first stage (left) was up a steep (the camera doesn't do it justice!) rubble strewn track and easy to trip up.

Steep climbs up and down steps followed. These hugged the side of a very long drop down to the river. I made a point of carrying my small bag on the inside of the steps and was cautious not to drop my camera...if they went over the side that would be the end of them. Again, my small camera does not capture the scale of the landscape (right).

Left: There were many steep steps, and when you went down a couple of hundred, you knew that you would have to come back up at some point!

Right: A useful sign if ever you need to translate 'mind your head' into Mandarin Chinese.

Left: At one point it was necessary to cross a rather wobbly rope bridge. The long drop below through the trees was somewhat alarming. 

This trail was perhaps only about 2km long, but it certainly had me sweating a bit! It felt a lot longer and maybe didn't take into consideration the climbs and descents involved. I met only one couple, coming from the opposite direction, on this trail.

At some point it joined the Shakadang trail; a much more level walk along the side of the river to which one had eventually descended. I was heartened by the fact that here I met many walkers, some of whom appeared even older and less agile than myself. The following photos are of various parts along the riverside route.

Left: Quite a spectacular bit of the gorge.

This overhang must have taken quite a lot of work to chisel out. We were informed that the local 'aboriginal' tribes living and farming in this area use these trails for work. I'm not sure what they look like, so I don't know if I saw any.

Left: A close up of one of the rock faces. It is meant to show the strange colouration. I am no geologist, but I'm sure there is a reason for it. (OMPITA Research Dept will undoubtedly find out.)

Right: About 2km along the track there was a welcome pit-stop with a line of small cafés. I made use of this facility.

Left: Another typical view along the river. It has a river flow which at this time of year is presumably a bit limited.

Right: There were some enormous boulders.

Left: Another colourful rock.

Right: Where there was a pool of water it was crystal clear. It is not apparent here, but I could actually see fish swimming in that. Some 'trailers' had gone down to take a closer look.

Left: Further on I came upon another small lone café in the middle of nowhere. Maybe this lady was one of the aforementioned 'aboriginals". Anyway, not wishing to be rude, I called in for a chat and took her photo.

Right: She insisted on also taking my photo!

I had walked up this riverside trail for about 2 hours. I was hoping, naively perhaps, that it would loop back to the 'base' start point. I met a couple coming from the opposite direction to tell me it was another 2km to the end of the trail, which was a dead-end at a cabin of some sort further up in the hills. This was getting a bit 'same-same' and I wanted to get back to the bus pick-up point before it got dark, so I chickened out at this stage and retraced my steps!

Left: Just before leaving the trail, I saw this (empty) pill-box. The Taiwanese are prepared, even in the most remote locations.

I got back to Hualien at about 6.00pm and it was cold and drizzling rain. The bad weather had caught up with us.

Nothing for it but to struggle downtown to the Salt Lick restaurant for what turned out to be a jolly good meal of steak, mash, gravy and veg. Plus a bit of beer.

The next day I took a walk to what was advertised as a 'hilly park' in the centre of the city. I got there, and bumped into a charming Taiwanese/American couple (with twin babies) over from California to meet relatives. They suggested that the 'park' was rather boring and that I should go to see the 'Pine Garden' overlooking the river (River Meilun) at the east side of town. I followed the river down on a well manicured pathway and then and got lost.

Right: I ended up outside an army barracks with bugles blowing from within. Nothing to do with me I hoped. The 'Mickey Mouse' thing is far left of pic, below the 'hilly park'. Enlarge. Anyone know what those armoured vehicles are?

Eventually I found my way to the 'Pine Garden' on high ground to the north side of the river near the coast. It was at the end of a discreet cul-de-sac. 

Left: It is a fairly non-descript building surrounded by pine trees. I then discovered its history...which is interesting.

It was a Japanese Army Headquarters in WW2. Carefully hidden, but overlooking the harbour and with artillery pieces mounted in protection on the surrounding high ground.

Right: The view from the Pine Garden over the harbour and River Meilun. It is only a short distance south of a now disused airfield (used by the Japanese in WW2).

As well as being a Japanese army HQ, it was also a base (one of many I suppose) from which the Jap 'Kamikaze' pilots flew their final mission. They held a good celebratory 'piss-up' the evening prior, I read.

It has pleasant grounds, a shop, a carp filled pond and a decent café at the back. Inside was a rather empty museum with a large board (left) where you were encouraged to sign a sticker (pens provided) to show that you had visited. It was pretty full up. 

Right: I got my sticker on. Maybe, in retrospect, I could have done a better drawing. Anyway, better than nothing. I hope, when you visit, you will admire it.....and stick your's on too.

Left: There is a small bomb shelter next to the main building. It is only about 10ft underground.

Right: This contained several photos of kamikaze pilots prior to their missions. One shows them having a celebratory drink the night before. They all look so happy! If I was a kamikaze pilot (and some still say I was a failed one) I would be having a large one, or two, just before take-off! But then I would probably have missed my target.

Back to my 'hotel' and there is a small coffee bar (Seven Coffee Beans, it is called) just next door. It is also a bar. It was closed for most of the time I was there. On my final night  it was open. I made use of it. The young owner/barman (left) was interesting and amusing company despite the look he puts on here. We had a happy discussion, courtesy of a verbal translation phone 'app', about many things including his views on China...and his dislike of China, and how the Taiwanese would never tolerate a Chinese 'invasion'. Also, I was interested to learn from him why so many (about 80%) of Taiwanese continue to wear the dreaded and usless face-masks everywhere. He said it is simple; "people do it because everyone else is wearing them and they feel uncomfortable to be different". A classic case of 'herd mentality'! He introduced me by way of a free drink to hot American Apple Whisky. It was rather nice. He is just starting up this bar/café, having studied engineering and got bored with that. I wish him every success. So please drop in if you are passing by. I think his name is Gei Wei, or similar. A good guy!

Back to the train station the next day for the final leg back to Taipei (missing out the  the top north-east corner). Right: At Hualien railway station I saw, and couldn't resist taking photos of, these 'statues'.

Left: .......and this one. It reminds me of someone! (at OMPITA perhaps).

Finally, this one (right). I haven't a clue, but it was in prime position in front of the station. Anyone any ideas?

That is about all from my circumnavigation of Taiwan. It has been a most interesting tour around the country. I have another two days to spend in Taipei, but probably not doing much new there. Maybe I will send a summary of my trip later as I am now in Vietnam with time on my hands.

Too late to wish anyone a 'Merry' Christmas (I have tried, unsuccessfully perhaps, to avoid it) but just in time to wish everyone a 'Happy New Year'. A futile gesture of hope over expectation if ever there was one! Bah Humbug indeed.

AROUND THE COAST TO TAITUNG

 16th - 18th Dec 2023

The most interesting thing on the beach at Taitung!

It was another efficient, comfortable and on-time train from Kaohsiung. It took me south, around the bottom of the country and up the eastern side to the seaside town of Taitung. It was a 2hr 17min journey and passed through hilly/mountainous and densely forested countryside. Often we disappeared into very long tunnels.

The first thing that changed dramatically was the weather! All down the west coast it had been sunny and warm (mid 20sºc)  with blue skies. On turning north up the east coast it became overcast and drizzly. On arrival at Taitung Main Station at 1.17pm it was windy and cold. The Main Railway Station is 4 miles north of the town and there is a shuttle bus to get you to the bus station downtown. Fortunately, again, there is a decent Information Centre where I obtained a street map. There is no Metro and it was a 20 minute walk to my hotel (OK, I did get a bit lost). Having checked into a pretty moderate (cheap) hotel, I decided to go for a wander around town and down to the beach. The town is large, low-rise and well spread out, indeed 'sprawling' would describe it. The centre part is built on a fairly easy to navigate grid system, (but all the streets look the same!). There was the normal myriad of shops, lots of vegetable and meat shops and stalls, but nothing seemingly of any interest and many places were shuttered and closed. 

I ended up on the beach, which was utterly bereft of anything apart from rocky grey sand and scrubby grass. There were several people around and a sort of 'park' area at the northern end, but no cafés or even anywhere to sit down. Some tourists (I presume) were amusing themselves by taking photos of each other against the backdrop of a stranded wooden boat. Whoopee! It was still cold and windy.

 Left: Just away from the beach I passed a vast array of immaculately decorated tables all laid out for a major feast of some-sort, with a stage at one end and a long array of cooking facilities at the other preparing a serious banquet. I'm not sure what the occasion was (a wedding reception perhaps?) but with the weather as it was it was not going to be a comfortable occasion. Bad luck for the organisers and guests!

Right: Another pic of the less than inspiring beach!

I soon got the impression that Taitung was merely a staging post for more interesting National Park areas to the west. One of which, 10 miles north-west on the Luye Plateau, advertised ballooning, but certainly not at this time of year!

I decided that evening to find a pleasant relaxing bar. Not easy. One recommended in my 'guide book' was closed. After much walking I found, eventually, another which advertised itself as 'a sophisticated cocktail lounge'. It consisted of a narrow dimly lit room with a long bar and a few tables. Apart from me, the only people in there were a rather unenthusiastic barmaid and a middle aged bloke who, watching a karaoke screen and armed with a microphone and loudspeakers, was singing Chinese songs very loudly and tunelessly...non-stop. He was enjoying himself immensely. Which is more than can be said for me! I endured one (expensive) drink and left. I then read that the Moon Bar was the place to go. It turned out to be a cocktail bar on one of the upper floors of a Sheraton Hotel. Not my scene at all. I went back to my hotel. This town is obviously not much into evening entertainment, or maybe I have missed something.

The next day I decided to be a bit more adventurous and, consulting my guide book, decided, just out of curiosity and because there seemed to be bugger all of interest in Taitung, to take a bus to the town of Guanshan, 12 miles north in the hills. I had little idea of what it had to offer. It was a very comfortable (price 50p!) 41 seater bus and to begin with it only had me (and the driver of course) on board. It stopped at many places and the journey took 1hr 20mins. Right: The sign reads 'Welcome to Guanshan'. At least the weather was not too bad here.

I wandered and found a place that was hiring out bicycles. The young man managing the shop was very charming and persuaded me to hire an 'electric assisted' bike (plus helmet!) for 3 hours costing a mere £5. He suggested I take the 'Town Trail' which circumnavigated the town. 'Why not?' I thought. I hadn't planned anything else!

Left: Not exacty 'Tour de France' material.

He gave me a map, and I set off. The bike handled well and was indeed fairly effortless pedalling with its electric assistance. I had been told to switch the battery off if I stopped anywhere for more than 15 minutes. Right: The route (grey line around the outside). The start point was at the centre, just north of the railway line. First off south to the 'Waterfront Park', bottom left of the map, where I joined the 12km long 'trail' in an anti-clockwise direction. (OMPITA can you read these points and mark them?).

The route was well signposted and most was on a dedicated cycle path. There were no major inclines as the town is in a flat(ish) valley bottom surrounded by high hills. There was little chance of getting lost.

Right: There were several pit-stop areas en-route. One of which had WC facilities. (Correction: OMPITA Research Dept. examined the map in microscopic detail and discovered there are two WC facilities) I never met another bicyclist and only a couple of pedestrians when I used the opportunity to test the bell. It worked well.

Left: A statue, of whom I have no idea, which I encountered on the way around.

There was no exciting scenery or views, but a pleasant ride all the same. It took me just over an hour to return to the Waterfront Park where there is a shop and restaurant/café. I had time to spare so I stopped there for a cup of coffee and something to eat. I was there for the best part of an hour.

Left: A stage in front of a small lake at the Waterfront Park. They must hold some form of 'performances' in season. The place was fairly deserted at this time of year.

So, back on the trusty bike and it was only about 1 km back to the bike shop. Ahaa! I had not switched off the battery, so now no electric assistance and the 1 km was marginally uphill. Hard pedalling but I made it without sweating too much.

The bus ride back to Taitung was uneventful and I was back in town by early evening. I took the opportunity to do some laundry. One helpful aspect in all the towns/cities I have stayed at (so far) is that they have plentiful 'laundrettes'. I travel light so need to wash what few clothes I have regularly. Right: The nearby laundrette in Taitung. It was clean, efficient, simple to use and very cheap.

Left: I think this was Merry Christmas decoration at the Moon Bar in the Sheraton Hotel at which I didn't have a drink. They certainly go to town with their 'festive' decorations.

The only other vaguely interesting thing I saw in Taitung was a shopfront advertising, in English, "Dr Yu-Ju Chan. Psychiatric Help Available Here". I made a note but have lost the photo. I was tempted to pop in!

So that was Taitung, and not exactly an inspiring place to visit. I expect it is more 'vibrant' and interesting in the summer months.

Tally Ho! On north up the east coast.