My travels took me from Taipei (top) anti-clockwise around the island.
I arrived at Ho Chi Minh (Tan Son Nhat) airport at 9pm on New Year's Day for a 1.00am flight back to Taipei. It was to be a rather sleepless night and following day as I could not book into my cheapo hotel in Taipei until 3.00pm. Anyway it all went according to plan and I eventually relaxed in a pleasant café (called Oumi) near the hotel where I spent some time fiddling about on my computer. On getting into my hotel room I found that I had lost the lead to recharge my phone. It could only have been in the café. I went back and the lady there said she hadn't seen it. Oh damn and blast! As it happened, on going back there for a cup of coffee and a sticky bun the next morning, it was handed to me, without me even asking, neatly wrapped in a plastic bag. During the course of my time in Taiwan I had stupidly left three other items (my guide book, my notebook and another electric lead) at different locations. On thinking where they might be I went back and all were handed to me. Or, at Baihe as described previously, they phoned my hotel to tell me my notebook had been found. The Taiwanese are incredibly honest and helpful!
For my final full day in the city I wandered around and then decided to visit the University area which is to the south of the centre. Taiwan has several top-class universities with no less than five in Taipei; the most prestigious being the National Taiwan University which attracts many foreign students. Left: The tree-lined avenue leading up to the library of the National Taiwan Museum.
There are some splendid parks around this area and, advertised in my guide book, Riverside bars in the Gongguan area on the banks of the tributary River Xindian. I wandered over for a look.
Right: The line of bars and cafés along the photogenic riverside. This is not my photo. When I passed by (mid-afternoon) they were all closed and shuttered! Maybe because of the New Year holiday, or perhaps they opened later in the evening.
Left: Also nearby is an area, on a hill, known as 'Treasure Hill Artist Village'.
Right: It comprises steep steps leading up to a rabbit-warren of narrow passageways with many galleries, studios, workshops and cafés. I was told it is hive of student-oriented activity featuring exhibitions, art installations and impromptu dance performances with light shows and things happening on the green at the foot of the village. When I got there everything was closed! (apart from a guard-post). I suspect the 'students' are all still on holiday.
I ambled up and through this almost deserted 'village' to the main street through Gongguan. As with most streets there are wall-to-wall cafés serving, mainly, noodle dishes. I can't think why there are so many and all so similar.
However, almost hidden away between these cafés is a bar; the Bitter-Sweet Bar (left). It is only marked by a small illuminated sign above an unprepossessing door and I found it by accident. I went in. What an amusing place! The two barmen, one of whom was called Bob, from Burma (Myanmar), were hilarious and even generous with free drinks. I got chatting with a most engaging couple; a charming French girl studying at the university for a 'Masters Degree' in mathematics and (not sure if he was her boyfriend) a Taiwanese chap called Lucas. They were great company. I had to leave before, as Bob advised me, I got 'wobbly'!
I made my way back, not too wobbly, by Metro and after an evening coffee at the Oumi café went to my hotel before leaving for home the following morning. That about sums up my visit to Taiwan. I'm sure I will have missed out on several interesting sights and subsequent observations.
Aspects which I may not have mentioned (it seems a long time ago when I started these 'diaries' and I've mostly forgotten what I have written previously) are:
1. The lethal slippery marble-like surfaces of many pavements when they are wet (which was often the case).
2. The Taiwan sports scene. It seems to revolve, as I saw on TV, around Baseball and Snooker. I did see a couple of large Baseball grounds. Right: Taipei Baseball Stadium (not my photo!).
3. All the cheap hotels I stayed in had one significant improvement on hotels in most other countries. The bedside lights all had gently illuminated light switches. This meant that if you got up for a pee in the middle of the night, you weren't blindly thrashing around, with devastating effects, to switch the lights on. I can't think why this obviously helpful 'aid' is not available, if not compulsory, in all hotels.
The next morning, 4th January, I caught the MRT express train back to the airport (Terminal 2 this time) for my China Southern Airlines flight, initially a 1hr 30min flight to Guangzhou, China. Then a 19 hour hold-over before the flight on back to London Heathrow. It was similar to my hold-over at this airport on the way out which I described, with photos, in the 'blog' at the beginning of December. The only difference being that I used, to max advantage, the excellent facilities (apart from no 'Google') at China Southern CIP Lounge on two occasions; 4.30pm to Midnight when they close, and 4.30am to near my departure time at 12.15pm. I even got a bit of sleep.
One small 'incident' occurred. Following a thoroughly chaotic and intrusive baggage search on passing through to the transfer area, I found, after being happily ensconced in the CIP Lounge, I had lost due to all the unpacking and searching of my bags and clothes, another vital electric charging lead. I risked going back (after an hour) to the search area in the vain hope of seeing if they had found it. I was confronted by a very officious security lady who insisted on taking my passport and boarding card. I thought this could mean trouble! There was much shouting and gesticulating and I thought I was going to have a big problem here. As it happened I was shouted at to go to a side area where another security officer handed me the missing lead! I hugged him in gratitude, and my passport etc. were handed back to me. A small miracle.
The 12hr 30min flight back to LHR was uneventful and reasonably comfortable as I had been allocated, free of charge, a seat at one of the emergency exits with extra leg room. On getting to my seat I found the Captain's hat on it. Why it was there I have no idea. After trying it on I made sure it was returned to him.
We arrived at LHR at 5.15pm local time. It was dark, wet, cold and miserable. Terminal 4 was typical LHR mayhem and I really wondered whether I was in New Delhi. On getting to Terminal 2 I eventually caught a bus (£15) to the town of Reading from which I hoped to connect with a train to my home town. No such luck! All trains had been cancelled due to 'floods'. The British rail system is never prepared for a bit of rain, wind, snow or ice if, indeed, the train drivers are not on strike.
Left: A comparison in Taiwan.
At last I found a bus which took me to a town near my home town. No further public transport thereafter. I am lucky to have a helpful neighbour who drove out to collect me and I got home at about 10.00pm Phew!
Well, it is SO NICE to be back in jolly old UK. 😧 Where next?
On north by 'fast' train up the east coast, and return to Taipei. It was a 2hr 29min journey (spot on time as always). I had decided to give the city of Keelung, on the northern coast, a miss. I suspected it did not have a lot to offer that I had not already experienced, and the weather up this end of the island was still rather overcast, damp and coldish. The rail journey passed along and through similar forested mountainous and hilly scenery as previous, including some rather dull looking 'industrial' towns. One coastal area was, interestingly, called 'Honeymoon Bay'. My guide book informed me that there was 'good surfing' along this north-east coast, but that was not on my agenda! After some slow going with numerous suburban stops we reached the Main Station in Taipei (the enormous hi-tech maze previously described) at 2.47pm and I checked into another 'relatively' cheap hotel a bit of a walk north-east of the Station.
Left: After much searching, I found another 'Oirish Bear' within walking distance of the hotel. It was a fairly decent, if unremarkable, pub but served good western food and, of course, Guinness. As I think I have mentioned, decent bars are difficult to find in this country. Being the 21st December I celebrated 'Sahagun Day' here (I'll let you work that out).
I had read that there is an interesting area surrounding what is called The Red House. I went to the Red House which was near the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial compound. It was the 'wrong' Red House. This one was a two storey museum dedicated to the 19th century production of camphor and opium. It was not very interesting. The 'correct' Red House (right) was to the east of the city centre near the river (Tamsui) and the Beimen Metro station.
This attractive octagonal red-brick building was built by the Japanese over 100 years ago and was the hub of the city's shopping centre. It is now still surrounded by many shops, stalls and cafés. Inside there is an theatre upstairs, and downstairs an indoor market (left).
It sells all sorts of knick-knacks amongst some expensive jewellery and clothes stalls.
Right: I saw these interesting 'squashed' whisky and wine bottles which served as dishes and, I thought, rather attractive. I might have bought one if a) I wasn't luggage limited and b) They weren't so expensive! I bought a T-shirt instead.
Left: Another photo of passengers inside a Metro train. I reckon about 80% of Taiwanese still wear the dreaded face-masks. As explained by the barman in Hualien, it is a feature of 'Herd Mentality'. It is also rare to see anyone not glued to their smart-phones! I never did find out what they were all looking at. I noticed several 'video games' being played.
That evening I found another watering-hole, a 'whisky bar' called The Buckskin' which was almost next door to my hotel. None of these bars appear to open before about 8.30pm. It was quite pleasant. I enjoyed a glass of Whiskey Highball, otherwise known, in UK, simply as Whisky and Soda, and a meal of calamari salad.
Having spent three weeks circumnavigating Taiwan I decided to have a 'holiday within a holiday' and go to my old stomping ground in Vietnam for Christmas and New Year. I know from experience that the Vietnamese are somewhat at the other end of the spectrum of 'entertainment' to the Taiwanese. They enjoy a good party and certainly Christmas (the origin and traditions of which they know little but who cares) and New Year provide an excellent opportunity for a very joyous blow-out.
I managed to get a suitable competitively priced return flight with Vietjet Airlines and set off on the evening of the 23rd to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). Finding the platform for the 'express' MRT train to the airport involved another confusing navigation through the Disorientating Maze at the Main Station. I made it eventually.
Left: The gleaming interior of Terminal 1 at Taipei International Airport. I had arrived far too early, as is my wont, was efficiently passed through 'check-in' and 'security' with no faffing about as at UK airports (no nonsense with liquids etc). My cabin bag was a bit 'overweight' but I was told they would overlook that. I had time to make use of the 'CIP' Lounge in departures. Great value and as much as you could eat and drink for £24 equivalent. I definitely got my money's worth!
Right: The unavoidable..............!
I have covered Vietnam, and Saigon in particular, in great detail in previous blogs (this time last year is one example) so will not go over it all again. Suffice to say that it lived up to my expectations. I attach below some photos of this visit and of course I did lots of other (respectable I hasten to add) things not mentioned here. The first difference you notice on arrival here is the weather. Taiwan was cool and often drizzly and rainy. In the South of Vietnam (ie. Saigon) it is very warm; between 30º- 35ºc, with the occasional short-lived and heavy downpour.
Below: The Cuban band and jolly singers on the 9th Floor terrace bar at the Caravelle Hotel on Christmas Eve.
Left: A pretty Vietnamese girl, typical of the nation. I have yet to see a fat one and they dress so attractively!
The 'Western' tourists are often notably fat, covered in tattoos and, if male, scruffily unshaven. I have photo examples but decided not to publish them to save embarrassing anyone accidentally recognising themselves on this blog!
Right: Outside the enormous Ben Thanh market. Was she 'pouting' at me?
Left: The Ho Chi Minh statue outside the City Hall.
A couple here are wearing face-masks. They were the exception to the rule. Unlike Taiwan very few (mainly only tourists) wore them on the streets or inside. They do wear them riding their 'motos' (scooters), but they always have done and this was/is a perceived protection against pollution, not a virus!
Again, another dissimilarity between here and Taiwan is the abundance of cafés, bars and restaurants catering for all tastes of drink and different national cuisines. These hostelries are open all hours and seemingly on every available terrace, roof-top, courtyard and street. Outdoor eating at street restaurants is popular. You never see that in Taiwan. I suppose the warm weather plays a part. The Vietnamese are a much more 'hedonistic' people than the rather 'staid' Taiwanese; very outgoing and more 'risqué'. You would never experience walking down a street in Taiwan and receive that well known Vietnamese greeting "Yoo wan Massaa"! from young ladies outside the many establishments offering restorative relaxation.
Right: Tables prepared for the street-side evening meals which start being served at about 6.00pm and go on long after I have gone to bed!
Left: They are always packed. The food at these is of a wide Vietnamese variety and both delicious and cheap.
Right: People flock into the city centre around Christmas and New Year's Eve. Loud 'pop concerts' play with much fire and smoke on Le Loi Boulevard, the main drag through town. The crowds are often noisy but always well behaved. I have yet to witness any bad or 'anti-social' behaviour, let alone violence, in this city. There are police around and all very good natured.
Left: One of many balloon sellers on New Year's Eve.
There was a very loud 'live' pop concert ongoing at the time which featured long haired youths shouting into microphones, tuneless twanging guitars and much banging of drums which, I am informed, is 'heavy metal' music (music?!) or some-such. What a racket!
Right: A happy couple celebrating.
Left: There were several of these 'fire-breathers'. More than last year. It must leave a horrid taste in their mouths and, I would have thought, a certain amount of scorched clothing and eyebrows!
Right: 'Living' statues. I didn't notice any of these last year. It must be catching on.
Left: As per last year I got up to a vantage point on the roof terrace of the Rex Hotel for a good view of the fireworks. This year I lodged myself at a prime position at the edge (just by the 'R' of Rex Hotel in photo) but found myself surrounded by a group of rather loud and 'merry' Glaswegian tourists. You can't escape!
Right: The assembled crowd below on Nguyen Hué Avenue.
Below: The fireworks were launched from near the river at the bottom of Nguyen Hué. As with last year the display went on for about 25 minutes. Last year (and I have the video on a previous blog) the display was truly magnificent. This year, most unfortunately, there must have been a breeze which blew all the smoke directly in front of the fireworks. As such all you saw for the most part was clouds of coloured smoke and heard loud whizzes and bangs. It must have much irritated the organisers to spend so much money, time and effort to have their display (from our side anyway) rather ruined.
Many wealthy Vietnamese groups had booked expensive tables on the rooftop terrace and had enjoyed a sumptuous meal before the display. Once the display was over (and this happened last year so I was poised!) most of the diners left, leaving behind half full bottles of rather good wine. The waiters were just going to throw them away. Well, this was too much to resist! I think the 'merry' Glaswegians also made the most of it.
I had been staying at a marvellous little hotel. You might be interested if you ever go to Saigon. It is called the Thiên Hai Hotel at 220 Ly Thu Trong Street and I have stayed here before. I was greeted on arrival like a long lost friend! It is perfectly placed in the centre of all the tourist areas in and around District 1, most a maximum of 10 minutes walk away. It has very clean and comfortable rooms with good air-con, wide-screen TV, good Wi-Fi, excellent bathroom, coffee-making facilities (with ample supplies of tea and coffee etc.), room cleaned daily, an efficient 'same day' laundry service and a simple buffet breakfast. There is a 24hr 'Family Mart' (mini super-market) next door which is extremely useful. I was here for 10 nights and the total cost, including 3 laundries, was £195 (£19.50 pn). What a bargain! I can't think why people want to spend hundreds of pounds per night at a 'top class/price' hotel (of which there are several in the city) when, frankly, you only need a comfortable place to sleep and wash in and be conveniently located.
Another point of note in this city (and others in Vietnam) is the 'Grab' taxi service (an App on your phone). You can order, on line, a 'Grab' moto (scooter) taxi and they are remarkably cheap and turn up very quickly. I had to visit an old friend in a District which was about 5 miles away. I used the scooter taxi and the journey was quicker than by car of course (dodging the traffic), and it cost about £2! Brilliant.
That is a briefoutline of my holiday in Saigon and surrounding area. I returned to Taiwan on a flight which, rather inconveniently, left Ho Chi Minh at 1.00am on the 2nd Jan. I will report back from there following my final few days in this part of the world.
Left: A comparison in Taiwan.
