CYPRUS REVISITED 2

19th - 23rd Jun 2024

That evening I got a phone call from the lady at Dhekelia who, true to her word, had found someone to 'guide me' around the base. I was to meet him (the guide) tomorrow (Thursday 20th) at the entrance at 10.00am. So I did.

Left: An aerial shot of part of the base. Not my photo of course, but plenty of photos of the base are available 'on-line'! The Officers' Mess is circled, bottom right.

After showing several forms of ID I was issued with a temporary 'pass' and introduced to my Cypriot guide, called Paris. I was warned that under no circumstances was I to take any photos, and Paris "is under strict instructions to enforce this". I couldn't think what they could possibly be hiding on the base! Paris was a decent enough chap who spoke good English and, I think, worked there as a civilian mechanic or engineer. We got into his car and I asked if we could go first to the Officers' Mess, a place of great social importance in my days there.

Left: The Officers' Mess (pic taken very surreptitiously). I was being watched by Paris so didn't want to upset him by taking these 'illegal' photos! As a result you will mostly just have to put up with my writing.

My memories of the base were somewhat limited. We had to go into the Mess by the kitchens for some reason. The only people I saw in there were a lady member of the staff in the dining room and another lady outside who, I think, was a visiting medic of some sort. I hardly recognised the place as I think it had undergone several 'modifications' and 'extensions' (probably necessary due to the damage we drunkenly caused!). I couldn't even remember where my old room was. There is now a small swimming pool which wasn't there in my day. Beside this was a large notice which displayed all the many rules and regulations which you had to abide by....I think swimming was allowed, just, on sufferance. Another example of utterly unnecessary and obtrusive modern day 'elf 'n safety'. 

We visited the Station Headquarters building. It had a Union Flag flying proudly outside. Up a staircase to the offices level. This staircase had a notice which read "this stairway may be used in either direction"! What? Why should it not be?! Anyway there was a line of about 10 offices including that of the Base Commander, his 2 i/c, Adjutant, Admin Officer, Station WO1 and several others. Not a single one was occupied by a military person. Indeed the only people there, in one office, were a couple of civilian contractors mending a computer and a retired chap who was involved in some 'welfare' capacity. This was 10.15am on a weekday. Where were they all? Apparently the Base Commander was on leave. Maybe the rest were 'working from home'?

We then toured the base passing places I vaguely remembered including the schools, hospital, Sergeant's Mess, the NAAFI building (shop now named something differently), the transport garages etc. It seemed entirely deserted. I don't remember seeing any form of human life; let alone soldiers in uniform. It was like the Marie Celeste!

In my day this base would be humming mid-week (during the morning anyway). The large site of the old married quarters had been demolished. Apparently it was cheaper to build new ones than maintain the old. There were sizeable areas of these new houses and, again, I saw no activity. I found this extraordinary. I can't think what has happened. Perhaps that is why photos are strictly forbidden. Don't let the 'enemy' know the place has been abandoned! Actually, on the way out I did see one soldier, in combat uniform, manning one of the exit barriers. We had to leave the base at 11.00am because after this the gates were then all shut and locked!

Next I expressed an interest to go to Kingsfield Airfield, about a couple of miles outside the base. I used to go gliding there. No gliding there now, just a Sport Parachute Club. The parachute club used to be in nearby Pergamos Camp, but that has all gone. Parachuting was indeed taking place and I watched a few dropping out of the plane. I didn't get the chance to meet the guy in charge (he was busy directing operations from a rooftop). The six or seven parachutists (all stubblies) came from where, or did what, I gathered not. The only person I had a pleasant chat with was a sociable lady (daughter of a Brit but resident in Cyprus) who ran the café.

This had been a somewhat depressing and boring visit! I suspect the place is now just a 'dormitory' for visiting personnel.....?? I am none the wiser because I never met any military person with whom to discuss the situation.

Then back to Larnaca for a pleasant lunch on the sea-front. South of Larnaca there are several vast salt lakes. Left: A poor photo of one of them. They are solid white with salt and very extensive on both sides of the road. I'm not sure what geological feature causes the extreme saltiness in them.

Right: Back at the hotel. This lady, Olga, is a delightful Ukrainian and works in the bar and restaurant. She is most attractive and was very helpful and amusing company! Thank you Olga (and all the staff, who were all most efficient and attentive).

The next morning was spent on a local beach (Faros Beach) (left) which was 15 minutes walk from the hotel. At least it was uncrowded and there was a small café/bar. Not much to do other than paddle in the sea and sunbathe.

Right: The rules of the beach. No dogs? Why only dogs not allowed? Are all other animals permitted? I know Cyprus has a large cat population and, personally, I prefer the company of dogs to cats. Could I bring my pet sheep, or camel......?

Left: Talking of camels, I had noticed a sign on the way from Larnaca pointing to a 'Camel Park'. I decided to investigate.

It was a 20 minute drive to the village of Mazotos with the Camel Park on the edge. It was Euro 7 to enter. I think camels are the most ugly, smelly, unappealing and anti-social creatures. Right: The ones in this picture are the 'one hump' variety ie. dromedaries from the Middle East area.

They have strange, dangerous and disgusting habits. I read this:

'Camels use their teeth to bite, lift and throw their enemies, their feet to kick, paw or trample over, their whole body to knock over, press and squeeze, and their spit or regurgitated food to cover their perceived adversaries'. 

They are mainly herbivores but if hungry (which is most of the time) they will eat anything, including meat and bones (apparently). The max range of camel spit has been recorded at 40 yards, and it smells revolting. Fortunately I was not spat at.

Left: These brutes followed visitors walking around outside their compound. We had been offered the opportunity to buy 'food' to feed them. I certainly didn't. Also there was the opportunity to pay to have a ride on them. Not me! They stuck their ugly snouts over the fence revealing enormous dirty protruding fangs in the hope that they would be given something to eat. I dread to think what some people fed them.

It was in other parts a zoo featuring many different animals and all well maintained in spacious compounds. Right: A very small pony.

Left: A cage inhabited by lemurs. You could go inside to feed them.

Right: ....and ostriches. Many other animals were in residence.

Left: A dromedary giving a ride to a somewhat stoutly built lady. 

Right: Another little 'camel train' in action. I couldn't see the point.

Left: There were a couple of the two-humped variety kept separately in their own compound. These are 'bactrian' camels, from Asia. I have never before seen such shaggy, moth-eaten, ugly creatures. Grooming? They need stripping down and re-upholstering!

This park also had cafés, a restaurant and bar, a swimming pool, amusement arcades, souvenir shop, museum and other facilities. It was actually quite a jolly place, despite the camels. Right: a 'berber' tent. 

That evening I handed back my car to the excellent 'hire car' company in Larnaca (as mentioned in the previous blog) and bus back. The remainder of this short trip was spent in and around the hotel. Nothing much else to report except that I met a charming and interesting guest; an Israeli policeman. He gave me some fascinating insights into the state of affairs in that part of the world. I won't bore you with them here, suffice to say that his experience and views did not match what we have been told by the UK Government and media.

The journey back to UK (from Larnaca to Gatwick) with EasyJet was equally as tedious, frustrating and irritating as the trip out, described at the beginning. It was also delayed. We arrived back at LGW just before midnight on the 23rd and I had to wait until 5.15am for a train home.

Left: Standing in a long queue on the tarmac at Larnaca for a long time before boarding the aircraft. 

PS. (Right) The hotel I stayed at had, almost uniquely, bedside light switches which were illuminated! It certainly makes getting up in the dark a less hazardous task. I wish more hotels did this.

So that was my Cyprus Revisit. I'm glad I did it, but doubt I will be going back for a holiday!

CYPRUS REVISITED 1

 16th - 19th Jun 2024

Cyprus. Left arrow Larnaca. Right arrow Fig Tree Bay.

I was based in Cyprus for a year in 1976, at the Eastern Sovereign Base Area (ESBA) Dhekelia. It is on the coast about 12 miles east of Larnaca. It was a fun and uproarious posting and, thanks to the Turkish invasion of the north-eastern part of the island in 1974, pleasantly free of tourists. We had the beaches and other facilities more or less to ourselves. Other military units and friends were based in Episkopi, the Western Sovereign Base Area (WSBA) at the south-western end of the island along with the RAF at Akrotiri. 

So, after 48 years, I decided to go back to have a look and maybe re-live happy memories!

After a traumatic and expensive journey from home by rail some of the way (the ongoing trains to Gatwick airport were cancelled due to 'lack of staff'), then bus (£40 from Reading to Gatwick airport with a lengthy and tedious wait at Heathrow!) to a vastly overpriced night stay at an airport hotel at Gatwick to catch a mid-day EasyJet flight to Larnaca the next day. The public transport system in UK is in an appalling state; thoroughly unreliable. I was in a bad mood already! 

The plane was packed full of mostly rather 'yobby' looking tourists. Left: an example of such waiting for the flight. It didn't look promising! By the way, I am somewhat bemused by the current fashion whereby nearly all males (below the age of about 50) sport this unattractive unshaven facial 'stubble'. It looks scruffy and dirty and suggests "I can't be bothered" idleness. I call them 'Stubblies'. It is not a pleasant sight (in my opinion). Even many TV reporters, who should know better, are guilty of this 'fashion statement'. As indeed are the armed forces now! What is the world coming to?! 😬😬

Interestingly, and again annoyingly, EasyJet had booked my small cabin bag into the hold. To get it into the cabin would cost me an extra £48! What a rip-off, so I had to book it into the hold as 'freight'. Right: Once on the aircraft it was apparent that few of the convenient overhead lockers were in use (OK, this photo was taken before the main scrum had boarded but even when they had there were still few overhead lockers in use...I put my laptop bag up there). There is no logic to this!

To cap it all, once the aircraft had been fully boarded by the sweaty horde of 'stubblies' and their fat tattooed 'molls' we sat stationary on dispersal for an hour and forty minutes! There was only one cabin announcement by the 'captain' to tell us that engineers were fixing a problem! This was, of course, for our safety and convenience. Pathetic.

OK, that is enough about the typical hassle, discomfort and inconvenience of modern day travel. The 4 hour flight itself was uneventful and we landed at Larnaca airport, late, at about 9.00pm. I had been booked into a hotel via the Trailfinders agency which, in retrospect, was a mistake. I should have followed my normal routine and done it all (more cheaply) myself. The hotel was a perfectly decent one with a 'Spa and swimming pool' etc. (not my scene). It was near the coast about 12 miles south of Larnaca and in the middle of nowhere. Most inconvenient and I had been booked in for a week with no option to change. The necessary taxi from the airport cost Euro 20 (I had forgotten Cyprus is now Euro currency. In my previous stay it was Cypriot Pounds!)

Right: The view of the pool from my balcony. I really don't 'do' swimming pools but occasionally lounge around the edge ogling the talent.....of which there was very little.

The next morning at breakfast (included and quite decent too) I was sitting at a table looking across at this 'gentleman' (left). Not only was he a 'Stubbly' but also sported a ring through his nose! Am I alone in finding this hideously unattractive? It must also be rather uncomfortable. Is he tethered to the wall by his nose at night like a prize bull? What possesses these people? It put me off my food so I moved.

PS. My eagle-eyed OMPITA adviser spotted that he also has three metal studs on the inside of his lower lip. Extraordinary!

I intended to do a bit of travelling around the eastern end of the island so needed transport. I thought of hiring a scooter or small motorbike. On Tuesday afternoon, after a bit of energetic lazing by the pool, I got the bus into Larnaca and found, near the Marina main bus station, a likely looking car/bike hire shop. There are many around town. They proved, fortunately, to be both helpful and honest. I can recommend them: 'Anemayia Hire' on Makarios Avenue. It is a family run firm with Nikolas, his wife and charming daughter, Joanna, involved. My intention of hiring a scooter was quashed as it was pointed out to me that anyone over 'a certain age' (70) cannot be insured in Cyprus for riding (a hired) one. So, at not much greater expense (total Euro 100 for 3 days), I had to hire a car.

 

Right: My car. A fairly elderly Suzuki Swift with 110,202 kms on the clock. It was an 'automatic' of which I had no experience. I was given a quick 'crash' course on how it worked by Nikolas. It also had multiple small dents and scratches and I hadn't asked Nikolas to identify them before I left. I had been compelled to lodge a Euro 400 deposit which would be returned to me when I handed the car back. After I drove off I realised that they could blame me for some of the scratches and dents and I would lose the deposit. I was a bit stressed by this. As it happened I needn't have worried. I got it all back straight away when I returned the car. Memo to self: 'In future when hiring a car get the hirer to identify any present damage...and take a photo of it'!

The following morning I decided to travel east along the coast to my old base at Dhekelia, about 12 miles from Larnaca. On arrival at the main entrance I was told by a Cypriot MOD policeman (ModPlod) that I was not allowed to enter the main base, but a lady on duty (at another gate) said she would try to arrange an 'escort' for the following day to show me around the place. I didn't hold out much hope. 

I continued around the perimeter to what was our airstrip from which we operated helicopters. The airstrip (runway) and the hangar building are still there but the place is now wired off, locked up, closed down and deserted. Left: The nearest I could get and the photo taken through the mesh fence. I believe the place is now kept as a 'stand-by' location by the RAF based in Akrotiri.

I then went down to the sea shore where, back in 1976, the 'Officers' Club' was located (right). It was a thriving and amusing place for much social drinking and swimming. It had gone! Demolished! Probably on 'Elf 'n Safety' grounds.

Left: In its place, or nearby, was a shack which houses, apparently, the grandiosely titled 'Joint Services Adventure Training Wing Land Activity (Kayak) Branch'. I did not realise that kayaks were 'land' vehicles. It was locked up and certainly did not show any sign of 'activity'.

Likewise further down was the Dhekelia Services Sailing Club which had a few dinghies in the water and a lean-to shed with an inflatable boat in it. It too was all locked up and bereft of any human activity. Right: I noticed that the Dhekelia Services are now somewhat unenthusiastic about people enjoying a smoke...even outside. More 'elf 'n safety!

I continued east along the coast to the town of Aya Napa. Back in 1976 this was a charming little village with some chalets, down a dirt track, on the seafront. There is now a 4/6 lane motorway along the coast and exit to the town, which is now large and entirely unrecognisable. It is a vast tourist resort! There are wall-to-wall hotels, bars, restaurants, MacDonalds, supermarkets and souvenir shops etc. The modes of transport favoured by the tourists are scooters, 4X4s and ostentatious Beach Buggies. It all seems very 'naff' and caters for the sort of people on my flight over! The main tourist season is yet to start but I did see plenty of the often pot-bellied tattooed 'stubblies' and their womenfolk who were proudly showing off unattractive near-naked torsos which ranged in hue from pallid white through crimson to nut brown. As I was driving I didn't have much opportunity to take photos...you may be relieved to not see.

Left: There were several shops renting out these Beach-Buggies and 4X4s.

I did get out for a quick walk around the town, but didn't stay long.

Then on to where the road turns north up to the once small village of Protaras. There used to be a dirt road from here to a delightful beach called Fig Tree Bay (FTB). It was to here we often used to come after work (which usually finished at 12.30pm because it got too hot later). It was a 500yd long sandy beach with warm crystal clear turquoise blue sea, and a small rocky island off-shore. Idyllic! There were two 'tavernas'. One at each end of the beach. We favoured the northerly one called 'Fig Tree Bar'. The other one at the southern end, not to be outdone, called itself 'The original Fig Tree Bar'. There was indeed a fig tree at both. There were normally only about a maximum of dozen people present on the beach; some from Dhekelia and maybe a few soldiers from the UN base in Nicosia. We could lounge around all day and sometimes even spent the night sleeping on the sand after (over)much imbibing on brandy sours. Based at 'our' bar was an amusing and ebullient Cypriot called Stavros who, together with his 15 year-old nephew, Nico, ran a speed-boat for waterskiing. It had a lively 80hp outboard motor. Over the course of many visits we became rather good at waterskiing (on mono-skis, trick-skis etc. involving elaborate beach starts and acrobatics) helped by the fact that the water was pleasantly warm when you fell in. We certainly didn't fuss with wearing life-jackets or helmets which is what the 'elf 'n safety regime demands nowadays. I suspect we put more time and effort into this activity than we ever did in our 'real' jobs. We became great friends with the bar owner (forgotten his name) and Stavros and Nico. This friendship even survived the occasion when, to get free waterskiing, we generously supplied Stavros with some 'opportunistically' acquired aviation fuel (Avgas) for his outboard motor. The outboard did not like this potent fuel and it eventually blew up!

Anyway, that was the old days. As with Aya Napa, Fig Tree Bay and the surrounding area is now unrecognisable! High-rise apartment blocks, large hotels, supermarkets, proper roads and numerous bars proliferate. I could not recognise anything, not even the original two bars which, I presume, have been knocked down and more 'flash' replacements built in their place.

Right: This photo was taken from where, I think, the southerly 'The Original Fig Tree Bar' was, looking north to where our 'Fig Tree Bar' was at the other end. It does not do justice showing all the high-rise development behind the beach.

Left: However, much to my surprise I saw this advert in more or less the same place at the northern end where Stavros operated in 1976. 

Right: It all looked rather upmarket. There seemed to be no end of 'watersports' catered for but as far as I could see, no waterskiing. I suspect that with the number of swimmers and other boats, especially noisy jet-skiis operating inshore, waterskiing would cause a bit of a hazard.

So I wandered down to the office (left) to find out what was going on these days. And believe it or nor.....there were Stavros and Nico!! I was amazed. Stavros is now 80 years old and still going strong! (he looks very fit despite the years). We had quite an emotional reunion. I tactfully did not remind him of the exploding outboard motor incident!

Right: The beach was covered in sun-loungers with shades and inhabited by many tourists.....and the peak tourist season had not yet started. There were wall-to-wall bars, restaurants and hotels behind the beach and all rather expensive.

Left and below. The standard of the present day 'holiday makers' did not impress. I think people ate less 48 years ago, and probably did more exercise (and men shaved in the morning!).

"Thar she blows!". I hope they were successful in refloating her.

Left: An interesting signpost on the beach. 'Ireland 3736', it reads. Kilometers presumably? I thought it was further.

I fiddled around on the beach and bought an overpriced beer and ice-cream. FTB has not been improved by all the building and new 'facilities'. It was so much more pleasant 48 years ago. Such is 'progress'. I doubt I will be returning!

I thought I would drop in at Cape Greko on the way back to Larnaca. This is overlooked by a high peninsular just south of Fig Tree Bay and forms the south-east tip of the island. I had not been there before. Right: It is a 'Marine Protected Area'.......click on to enlarge and read.

Left: It is a popular spot for anchoring cruise boats and snorkellers. The water is crystal clear and I expect there are lots of fish and other marine creatures to stare at.

Right: Several tourists had arrived at the Cape on these beach-buggies. They are obviously very popular.

Left: I drove/climbed up to the top of the promontory overlooking the Cape. There was a near vertical drop behind me. I had accompanied a young couple who took this photo.

Right: A couple of pretty girls arrived in this buggy. The girl on the right had a splendid long wig which I tried and failed to photo. 

Back to Larnaca for a spot of refreshment at the pleasant beach-front promenade before returning to the hotel. 

It had been an interesting day out, but I certainly preferred things as they had been in 1976. Of course the Greek Cypriots, being entrepreneurial people, had made the most of it (and probably a lot of money) with regard to expanding the tourist industry. I'm told things are much worse down at the other, western, end of the island where places like Limassol have been well and truly invaded by wealthy Russians!

More to follow in the next 'edition'.