NEW YEAR'S EVE IN VUNG TAU

29th Dec - 2nd Jan 2025

The 'High Speed' ferry from HCMC to Vung Tau.

The river/sea  route to Vung Tau used to be serviced by a very fast and exhilarating Hydrofoil and the journey took one hour, but it appears to have been replaced by a twin-hulled 'High Speed' boat which takes over two hours. Perhaps the hydrofoil became a little too exhilarating…or expensive to run.

Left: The route, initially down the Saigon River and then the short sea cossing to Vung Tau. 

Vung Tau is on a peninsular which is bordered all the way around by long sandy beaches. It is a (supposedly) popular weekend venue for Ho Chi Minners who come to enjoy lazing around by the sea. There are also many western tourists, mostly Australians as far as I could see, who come for the same reason and to noisily populate the ex-pat bars on the western harbour area.

Right: One of the many typical and elegantly decorated fellow tourists boarding the ferry.

I was to be in Vung Tau from 29th December until 2nd January 2025.

Left: All passengers sat inside (no going on deck as was allowed on the old hydrofoil). It was perfectly comfortable and with a large TV screen at the front broadcasting, after the initial ferry company blurb, some rather amusing 'comedy' films. Just as well because there was not much of interest to see out of the windows….just the river banks and quays and other moored ships.

I had booked, on spec, a cheap hotel (£20 pn) hotel, the Plus Vung Tau Hotel, which was situated in a small street just off the eastern beach. It was very clean with helpful staff and comfortable with all mod cons in the bedroom. With hindsight I would have chosen a hotel on the western, harbour side. The peninsular is surrounded by sandy beaches divided into the eastern 'Back Beach', around the south 'Dua Beach' and on the west 'Front Beach' with a further 'Dau Beach' north of the harbour.

Right: Part of the long eastern 'Back Beach'. All the beaches seemed rather deserted with no cafés or other facilities that I noticed. Among the few sunbathers and swimmers were some surfers making use of the waves. I am not really 'into' paddling, swimming or lying on a sunbed so found it rather dull, frankly. 

Wandering around and through the town I was amazed by the sheer number, literally hundreds, of hotels. Some streets were virtually all hotels of varying size and luxury. There didn't appear to be many people around and on wandering into some of the larger hotels (out of curiosity) they seemed bereft of customers! Being a holiday period I found this strange. Even some of the many Vietnamese restaurants were peculiarly deserted. 

Right: One of the larger roads through the town. Even they were comparatively free of traffic. It was all in surprising contrast to the merry mayhem in Saigon!

I did a lot of walking and eventually discovered that the 'touristy' and more vibrant 'social' part of town was around the harbour area on the west side.

Left: I found this establishment near the harbour sea front; the Ned Kelly bar. As you are no doubt aware Ned Kelly was a notorious 19th century Australian bandit. 

It is owned by a Vietnamese lady, and her Australian husband, They were away in Australia. The husband must have served in the Australian army during the Vietnam war as these old photos (right) from the early 1970s were proudly on display. It would have been interesting to meet him.

Left: There was a Pool table and, as a staunch member of our local 'Geriatrics Pool Society', it would have been amusing to have found someone to have had a game with, but I didn't.

It was always well patronised by crowds of rather loud and what I might tactfully call 'unsophisticated' Aussies who used this as their regular haunt. Cricket matches (Australia v India at the time) were constantly shown on the pub TV.

I visited this place on several occasions. It served good food. I bought one of their splendid mugs (left).

I did a 'recce' of the area to find a suitable place at which to 'celebrate' New Year's Eve. Right: I found this towering hotel, The Fusion, which is again near the harbour and has a rooftop terrace and swimming pool on the 19th and 20th floors. For a reasonable price they offered a NYE buffet and hospitality up there. I took up the offer.

Left: The Fusion's swimming pool on the top 20th floor.

Right: A view over the top of the harbour area.

Left: ….and at night on New Year's Eve.

New Year's Eve. There were two 'functions' going on up on top of the Fusion. On the 20th (swimming pool) floor, guests had paid for a sumptuous meal and drinks and not sure what else. I had paid for a lesser function of the 19th floor for snacks and unlimited drinks! We were welcomed by these delectable maidens (right). I think they had been 'performing' for the 20th floor customers.

Seated on chairs and beanbags we, the 19th floor plebs, assembled from 9.00pm onwards and were generously served with drink (red wine in my case) and snacks. I think I got my money's worth. Nothing much happened until just before midnight. I had been expecting to see fireworks going off from the park area below. But no, some boxes of fireworks had been placed at the corners of the terrace. We were told to stand back. After a countdown to midnight they were lit. The result was somewhat alarming. There were loud whooshes and bangs and an incredible amount flying sparks, debris and smoke. More smoke than light ensued. I think there were only minor casualties amongst the cowering spectators. Babies were present. They keep them up late here, hardening them to artillery fire.

Above: The resulting 'display'….and it reminded me of a disastrous military 'fire power' demonstration gone wrong. Anyway, I think all onlookers survived virtually  unscathed.

I walked back (a 35 minute hike) home and passed several bars and nightclubs which were still active. Right: These ladies had been singing and dancing and politely posed for me.

Left: It was by now about 1.30am and Vietnamese people, including children, were still eating at streetside tables. 

Right: Photos taken during the day and show a strange (to me) dining habit adopted here (not seen in Saigon). They discard all their empty cans and left-overs onto the floor….

Left: What a mess! But it seems the normal thing to do and the staff just uncomplainingly sweep it all up. 

I think it would be rather frowned upon in the Officers' Mess.

The next day I visited the 'Upside-down House' north of the harbour (right).

You have to realise that the 'top' is the upside-down ground floor and entrance. You might notice an upside-down car parked there beside the left-hand tree.

I was the only visitor. Where is everyone in this town I began to wonder (apart from in Ned Kelly's bar)?

Entry to this weird place was free to those over a certain age. I qualified, but still get a bit demoralised because nobody ever asks me to prove my age. I must look very old! I was taken around the rooms inside by a charming and most enthusiastic young lad. There were about ten rooms displaying different 'upside-down' themes. He got me to pose in all of them and took the photos.

Left: The bathroom. He took photos in both 'up' and 'down' orientations.

Right: The bedroom. I have many photos of similar in different domestic and fantasy settings but show just these to give you the idea.

Left: The other way up. Most confusing!

Right: The kitchen.

Left: At the controls of a spacecraft landing on a planet.

Right: A picturesque Roman Catholic church in Tran Hung Dao Square nearby.

Left: The 'crib' at the entrance.

Right: The baby Jesus in the crib looks about 10 yrs old!

Left: The statue of Tran Hung Dao, pointing at me rather aggressively, at the end of the Square. His statue features in many cities. There is a large one near the ferry quay in Saigon which has featured on previous blogs. His real name was Tran Quoc Tuan. He was a royal prince and military commander in the 13th century and was considered a saint after his death. He was responsible for repelling Mongol invasions amongst other military victories. He is a much revered figure in Vietnam.

Right: (not my photo). The enormous statue of Jesus Christ on top of the forested hill, Mount Nho, at the southern end of the peninsular. It is 118ft high with a 60ft wingspan and the largest Christian statue in Asia. It has become a major pilgrim destination for Christians across Vietnam…as well as tourists (although probably not the Aussies in the Ned Kelly bar).

That will do for Vung Tau….and now back to Saigon