We set sail at some point on the first evening (following afternoon tea) towards Emmersdorf. I believe it was originally intended for us to visit the enormous and famous Melk Abbey (just across the river from Emmersdorf), but this was changed to visit nearby Shallaburg Castle instead.
Right: Afternoon tea. Another sumptuous spread. This is only a part of what was on offer!
Every evening, before dinner we were given a briefing on the following day's activities (as well as programmes put in our cabins). As mentioned, it was all impeccably managed.
Left: A pic of our route heading east from Pöchlarn (far left) to Emmersdorf (top right), Melk (centre) and Schallaburg (bottom).
Before disembarking we picked a coloured card which designated the group (of about 20) we were to join for the guided tour. Buses were laid on. It was about a 20 minute journey to Schallanburg.
Right: Shallaburg Castle with its immaculate gardens. It was originally built in 1242 and has a complicated and varied history since with multiple ownerships. Confiscated by the Russians in 1945 it is now looked after by the Southern Austrian government.
Left: Part of our 'yellow' group. We are supplied with electronic devices with an earpiece to listen to our tour guide. The tour guides are undeniably most professional and knowledgeable. However I must point out here, and it applies to all the subsequent guides, they never draw breath from talking! (described as' verbal diarrhoea' in less refined circles). As such we are treated to an 'information overload'. As a result it is difficult to remember any particular significant detail. In fact I found it quite wearing! (I unplugged on occasions).
Right: Our lady guide describing a model of the castle. At the back of the gardens is a medieval shooting range, originally for bows and arrows, then firearms, with bullet holes all over the place to prove it (and there must have been some rotten shots).
Left: The well 'refurbished' central courtyard. It features many wooden crests and carvings along the top. One of which, she proudly pointed out, is of a man's naked bottom! The significance is somewhat lost in time, but may have been to ward off evil spirits.
Right: The naked bottom!
Left: The original part of the castle, the 'keep'. Windows facing east (away from the sun) so that the lights from the keep could be seen by outsiders to show that the castle was occupied (or some such reason!).
Right: Displaying the cumbersome and very heavy chain mail, helmet and sword of a mounted knight. If the knight fell off his horse you can imagine the damage and injury occasioned. No remounting I think!
Left: The castle is used as a venue for many exhibitions and events. I believe this display (träumen = dreams) advertises a few.
Anyway, back to the ship for a 'Bavarian' themed lunch accompanied by a jolly Bavarian 'oompah' music band.
We then sailed on down the Wachau Valley. It is a famed wine producing area (white wines of various descriptions). On the lower south-facing hillsides are mile upon mile of vineyards (poor photo right).
Left: More pretty scenery 'mit schloß on top'.
Right: On arrival at the 'touristy' and very 'olde worlde' town of Dürnstein. We had a couple of hours of 'free time' to wander around the town. Tourist 'route maps' were displayed throughout.
Left: The impressive 'baroque' Abbey church in Dürnstein (built circa 15th century).
Right: The town is surrounded by vineyards.
It is one of the most-visited tourist destinations in the Wachau region (many of whom I saw on bicycles). It is a very picturesque town with narrow warren-like streets (left). It also has more wine bars than you can shake a stick at! I visited one to try one of the local brews, in my case the cheapest (of course); Holbener Grüner Vertliner at Euro 2.80 a glass. It was very good, but I am no expert, having dubious taste-buds. There were several much more expensive offerings (all white wine).
Right: I passed a shop with this sign in the window. I couldn't contain my curiosity so went in to investigate. It turns out that the 'rabbit shit' on offer is a popular confection of little chocolate balls. I didn't buy any.
Back on board in time for tea (a talented lady pianist plays throughout), then the dailybriefing and another debauched 5 course dinner.
After dinner there was 'entertainment' in the lounge. This classical music recital was provided by a quartet of 'former' members of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra called the Viennese Kudlak Quartet.
As you can imagine, they were rather good!
I hope to show a video below to give you some idea.
Every night, after all else, we were entertained by the Amadeus Duo, of Stephan (guitar) and Lyuba (keyboards). Again, very talented! Plus late night snacks (as if anyone needed more food!) I don't know what time they packed in because I had gone to bed by then....!
That was just Day 2. So much more to follow......eventually.
I booked this trip 'on-line' at short notice. Actually not quite true; a friend of a (German) friend of mine booked it and he had to cancel so I took his place! It is not my normal mode of travel as it involves an 8 day organised and 'guided tour' cruise down the river Danube from Passau (Germany) to Budapest (Hungary) and back to Passau. It is due to stop at various other places en-route. It started on the 19th June at London Heathrow for a 9.00am flight to Munich. A group of about 30 of us were met at the airport (Terminal 2) by the travel company rep. From then on we were more or less under close (and helpful, I hasten to add) supervision! The flight arrived at Munich at 11.45am (L). Met by another company rep and then herded onto a coach for the 1.5hr journey to Passau at the south-east corner of Germany near the Austrian border. As an aside, on this coach trip, I noticed an extraordinary amount of 'solar panels' in fields and on most buildings! Many many more than you see in the UK.
Passau is a very picturesque riverside town with a beautiful cathedral and a Town Hall with an impressive (automated) bell-ringing session. The bus stopped for us to listen to it. We arrived at the river quay and escorted onto our luxurious boat tethered there, The Amadeus Imperial.
Left: Our 'boat', the Amadeus Imperial (at a later stop). It is 443ft (135m) long, 37.5ft (11.4m) wide and has four decks including a large 'sun-deck' on top. There is a crew of 51! (no skimping there).
We were settled in the large lounge/bar area for a welcome and briefing by the two, most efficient, ladies in charge (Debbie and Karen).
We were then joined by a large contingent of passengers who had travelled (under supervision) from London to Passau over the previous two days. The total passengers now 142! It must be said, without appearing too rude, that the majority were of a fairly 'mature' appearance and many armed with walking sticks. They were predominantly British, with a small group of Americans.
Right: The route (click on to enlarge) from Passau (on the left) to Budapest (on the right, and back to Passau. It took us through Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary with various stops on the way there and back. River distance from Passau to Budapest is 362 miles (583km).
As a matter of interest the 'Blue' Danube is the second longest river in Europe (2,857km) stretching from the Black Forest in Germany to the Black Sea in Romania. The Volga is the longest (3,530km).
We are due to visit (and have guided tours of); Emmersdorf (Schallaburg Castle), Dürnstein (Wachau Valley Vineyards), Vienna, Budapest, Bratislava and Linz before arriving back at Passau on the 26th. Then coach to Munich and flight back to London Heathrow.
Left: We were introduced to the staff in charge of various aspects of the boat's services and admin (which resembled those of a 5 star hotel).
Right:….including the Chef de Cuisine, who received a round of applause.
Left: …….and the Captain. He is called Tom (forgotten his surname), and gave an amusing little speech. He told us that he had been employed on these cruises on various European rivers for 40 years. His wife calls him 'Tom Cruise'….cue many laughs.
Right: My cabin. This was of the 'cheapest' variety being on a lower deck on the water-line. It was nevertheless very comfortable with all mod cons including a TV showing most channels; not the BBC, thankfully, but Sky News and CNN etc. Cabin service was impeccable. Good WiFi throughout the boat.
The days are fully programmed with both on-shore tours and on-board 'entertainments'. We were provided (they were put in our cabins as well as displayed elsewhere), a daily 'programme of events' (example left). There was also a daily evening 'briefing' in the lounge to keep us informed. All so efficient and organised! I tried to participate in most of them, hence not much time, or inclination, to write these reports!
The days were punctuated by meals. They are sumptuous! Self-service breakfast, lunch (both self-service in the lounge and table-service in the restaurant) and tea (at 4.00pm) followed by an extraordinarily elaborate 5 course 'table service' Dinner, with complementary wine, at 7.00pm. It was superb, and much more than I could eat. Right: A typical Dinner menu.
The numerous serving staff were incredibly helpful and cheerful. For some reason several came from Bali
I am not used to this degree of luxury!
Left: The 3rd floor lounge and bar. I think people here were queueing for tea.
At some point we cast off and set sail towards Emmersdorf through the heavily forested steep hilly riverside and towards the wine growing area of the Wachau valley. We passed many pretty villages and 'schlosses' up on the hilltops.
I read that there are 12 locks to be negotiated on the way downstream to Budapest. We came to the first one shortly after departure (left). These involve negotiating the boat through a remarkably narrow passage with just inches to spare on either side. As far as I was aware we never even scraped the side. I asked the Captain at some point how they did it. Were there 'sensors' to keep the boat straight and off the walls?. "No", he said. "just skill".
I was then 'reprimanded' (politely) for referring to this vessel as a 'boat'. He told me, in no uncertain terms, that it is a 'ship'!! So there!
That was just Day1. I am well behind writing these reports as I have spent much time on the guided tours, the on-board entertainments and in the restaurant. I hope to catch up eventually!
On the evening of 24th to Kagan rail station (15kms with Yandex-Go taxi cost £1.50!) for the 11.30pm 'sleeper' train to Tashkent. As mentioned previously I had got the last remaining 'berth'. Another thoroughly bolshy lady (how do they end up at all these Uzbek stations and nowhere else?) imperiously kept us all waiting at the gate; me plus a group of amusing Italians also going to Tashkent. The train was 15 mins late departing, and stopped at a couple of stations en-route.
My four-berth compartment contained a rather uncommunicative young Russian couple and, getting on at the last minute, a bloke who occupied the bunk under mine. The 'climb' to the upper bunk was hazardous, as was getting down later to go to the loo. Also, I only discovered on arrival at Tashkent that there was a bar to be raised on the edge of the bunk to stop you falling out and maiming yourself falling 8ft to the floor. Fortunately I managed to stay aloft while asleep.
I had managed to get some sleep and we arrived in Tashkent at 7.45am. The bloke in the bunk under me was still sound asleep, despite the guard vigorously prodding him, as we got off. Maybe he ended up back in Bukhara? He might have been dead!?
Left: Disembarking at Tashkent. This was at the 'southern' secondary station (not the main one) and no Metro station there. It was a long walk to the My Status hotel (same as I used previously), I needed the exercise, where I was warmly greeted as a 'returning guest' and had a good breakfast.
I had a couple of days to spend here and wandered the sights again (plus occasionally refreshing myself with steaks and beer at the marvellous Irish Pub (Oirish Bear) on Shevchenko St.
To the enormous domed Chorsu Bazaar on the north-west side of town (right).
Left: Inside the dome. How do all these stalls, I wondered, often selling similar stuff, make money?
Right: Behind the dome is a vast maze of alleyways with stalls. I got entirely lost and disoriented walking into and around this.....
I had difficulty finding my way out!
Left:....passing this 'shop' advertising 'knife'. I doubt that would be approved in UK!
Right: .....plus an enormous smokey cooking/eating area which was well patronised.
Then on to Abdullah Quadiriy Park nearby to the east. It seemed mostly closed off due to renovations taking place inside. I passed this 'Planetarium' (left) and went in. It contained little of interest, mostly photographs and a cinema.
Right: A Soviet jet outside.
Left:...and a statue of Yuri Gagarin, a Russian 'hero' astronaut (not Uzbek), who was on the 1961 'Vostock' space flight. He died aged 38 in a jet training flight accident.
Further on down the edge of the park I came to a square which, amongst other 'amusements', featured an indoor circus (right). I couldn't resist buying a ticket for the soon to start afternoon performance.
Right: Before the show started children, from the audience, were hoisted aloft on elasticated swings and swung around and over the arena. A poor photo, but it looked rather alarming!
There was a large cast of acrobats, dancers and jugglers (must have been over 40 of them), plus some animals and a good band playing. Most of the acts were very impressive, and some involved audience participation. Not by me, I hasten to add.
Left: Another 'act'. I failed to photo the best. They played to a full and most enthusiastic audience...many children.
Right: A performing Yak...or at least I think it is a Yak. I don't think there were people inside a Yak costume.
Left: Some dancers.
The same cast do three performances a day. They must be very fit, and probably pretty knackered by the end of the third!
On the square outside the circus were some horses and ponies. Some small....
.....and some a bit larger.....
Of course I had to give one a test drive.....
The next day I took a Metro trip to the east of the city and just looked around and got rather lost. There is a large canal, the Anhor Canal, which runs through the city through various park areas such as this (right). I sat down next to these people who were curiously unresponsive so I didn't find out who they were.
At some point I passed this impressive looking building with a statue outside it. There was a guard at the entrance gates and he kindly took this photo (they are most obliging lot). It turned out that the statue is of Islam Karimov (and I think I featured him in a report from Samarkand). He was the first President of Uzbekistan (from 1991) and has the reputation of being somewhat 'autocratic' or 'ultra-authoritarian' ie. corrupt and murderous. The building behind is named after him and features lots of portraits and mementos glorifying his 'reign'. I read that it is somewhat dull, so I didn't bother going in. In fact I think it was closed.
I passed this enormous arena (right). It is called the Humo Arena, or 'Ice Dome'. It is the venue for ice-hockey and other ice-related sports.
Left: From another angle it looks like a giant alien spacecraft.
Back to the canal and, as is so frequent in this part of the world, there were a lot of 'picnickers' out enjoying the warm weather. There is a path running alongside the canal so I took that heading south. At times the path became hazardously narrow and derelict and it would be easy to trip and fall into what is a deep and fast flowing canal. This didn't seem to deter several couples happily walking along it. They have a somewhat more robust attitude to 'elf 'n safety' than us wimpy Westerners!
I had to climb up a steep, muddy and slippery bank to get back onto the road and a bridge across the canal. By chance, and I was somewhat disorientated, I found myself at the Eastern entrance to the Navoi Park 'Magic City'. Sponsored by Pepsi-Cola.
I have covered this 'mini-Disneyland' in a previous blog, but had another look around anyway. I discovered a large aquarium. Right: It features impressively lit long tunnels along which are tanks containing a myriad selection of fish and other aquatic creatures of various size and colour. There were boards displaying photos of the various species, but it was all too difficult (for me anyway) to identify what you were looking at.
Left: More unidentified fish. I didn't ask (as I once did at the Sydney aquarium park) if I could bring my fishing rod with me next time.
Right: Anything for a laugh!
I looked for a decent café or restaurant. There were many (all sponsored by Pepsi-Cola) but none served any alcohol. I would have enjoyed a glass of cold beer. Left: An old British telephone kiosk. They are fast disappearing from British streets and I often wonder where they go.
This one appeared to be in use! Or maybe she was just doing her make-up.
Left: I previously mentioned (in the initial Taskent blog) the 'zip-wire' across the pond in the centre of the complex. It is only about 100yds long and not very exciting, but on this occasion I saw some people using it so took this rather poor photo.
I think that will do from Tashkent, and indeed from the 'Stans'. It had been a most interesting and educational month spent in this part of the world. I was going to sum up my opinions at length but will be brief: The local people I met were, on the whole, so charming, helpful and well behaved (no yobs!). It was relatively inexpensive and very 'safe'. Excellent small inexpensive hotels. Very good restaurants and even some decent 'pubs'. The transport system works, if in a fairly idiosyncratic manner (vis. my bus trip from Bishkek to Tashkent!). Everywhere I visited was so clean and well maintained. Their internet/WiFi systems (in the cities at least) are probably better than in UK. I'm sure there must be 'downsides' but I, as a tourist, didn't experience any.
I was due to fly back to UK starting from Tashkent the next day (28th) and duly did so, but not without a slight hiccup. For some unremembered reason I had booked a rather tortuous flight routing from Tashkent to Astana (the Capital of Kazakhstan) then to Almaty and then on to London Heathrow the next day; change of aircraft at Astana and Almaty.
The flight, Astana Airways, left Tashkent, a lovely efficient airport with great facilities, on time at 2.30pm. Arrival at Astana at 6.50pm. I was prepared to have a long wait at Astana for the ongoing flight to Amaty to catch the 11.15am flight to London. The ongoing flight from Astana was cancelled! Thanks to a most helpful Air Astana office, they got me on an earlier flight to Almaty. As a result I had an overnight wait in Almaty Airport from 11.50pm to depart at 11.15am for the 9.5 hour flight! I sometimes wonder why I do this to myself. I suspect I didn't look very closely at the 'timings' when I booked the flight.
Anyway, arrived at the chaos of London Heathrow at 5.30pm on the 29th. From there by bus and train to get home at 8.15pm. Phew! I realised I hadn't had any proper sleep since waking up in the My Status hotel in Tashkent at 8.30am the previous day. With the 7 hour time difference that is, by my reckoning, about 45 hours ago. (I'm sure OMPITA will correct my calculations))
