GETTING AROUND MANILA

 8th - 10th Dec 2025

The Katipunan Revolutionary Monument in Intramuros, Rizal Park, featuring local hero, Andrés Bonifacio, revolutionary leader of the Katipunan revolutionaries who temporarily ousted the Spanish Government between 1896-98. 

I searched in vain for a useful Tourist Information Centre. I was after a) a paper map of the streets (like a London A-Z) and b) some postcards (I like sending them). The advertised tourist office in Intramuros, staffed by several disinterested young people eating sandwiches, was useless and the Central Tourist Office in Makati equally so. A polite gentleman there said there might be maps and postcards in one of the large National Bookstores. There weren't. As a solo traveller navigating around this traffic-jammed maze of a city is not easy. I had bought an e-SIM card for my iPhone which proved invaluable, indeed essential. Without access to Google Maps one would be permanently lost and, fortunately, the national internet provider 'ICT' worked well everywhere except up in the mountains. Indeed internet was remarkably good everywhere and in all hotels and bars.

To get from A to B there were several means of transport, but walking, as I like to do, posed an irritating problem. There are several 8-lane motorways, some on two levels, which criss-cross the city (below). You set off on foot, following your Google map directions on your phone, only to find your way blocked by one of these blasted motorways, or a fence, or a wall. It can be a long detour to get over, under or around, to the other side.

The most reliable and comfortable way to get around is to use the 'Grab' taxis for which I have the required 'app' on my phone. They are both efficient and relatively inexpensive, although you may have to wait some time for one to arrive during the ultra-busy traffic periods ie. between 8.00am and 10.00pm! I also discovered motorbike taxis on  the 'Move-it' app which were excellent and relatively quick. To get from Makati to Intramuros in the north by car, about 5km, could take anything up to 2 hours! (normally about 1hr 15mins)

Other intra-city transport consists of 'cowboy' taxis (I never touch them), motor-bikes with side-cars, tuk-tuks, the occasional horse and cart,  'Jeepneys' and the rather basic overhead 'Metro' (LRT and MRT) system.

Right: A typical 'Jeepney'. They are effectively based on a WW2 US jeep's chassis and have an elongated low passenger compartment. There seems to be competition as to who can produce the most extravagantly decorated version!  These only operated within their local districts. They wait at a pick-up point until full…and full means packed. It only costs 10 pesos for a ride (12p) of whatever distance. I tried them on a couple of occasions. Not being able to find out where they were going, I just got into one pointing in the direction I wanted to go and hoped for the best.

Left: Inside after being squeezed in, it was just a question of monitoring where I was on my phone and get out at one of the many stops before it turned in a different direction. Other passengers shouted something when they wanted to get off, but they knew where they were going. More were picked up en-route. An amusing form of transport but not entirely predictable.

There were lots of motorbikes with various forms of 'sidecar'. Some very basic and carried freight, or (right) old women.

Left: Others were more luxurious.

Right: The redoubtable tuk-tuks were in abundance. Again, these stuck to a local area.

Left: ….and one driven by a lady, which is a rare sight.

Right: A horse and cart. I think these were used by the well-heeled tourists on guided tours. More for pleasure than getting from one place to another. You may notice that it is raining in this photo. It did tend to rain or drizzle most afternoons and the roads, pavements and streets became quickly and annoyingly waterlogged. I'm not surprised there is chaos if and when it really pisses down! Drainage seems to be a problem.

Left: The overhead LRT (Light Rail Transit) Metro and MRT (Metro Rail Transit) operate on a few lines. I never quite discovered how to best to use them as the stations were difficult to find and the only route diagrams were at the stations. The useless tourist information offices could not provide one.

I did use them on a couple of occasions from 'near' Makati (Vito Cruz station) to the Central stop in Intramuros. Very cheap at 25p (UK equiv). Right: As with everything in this city, we were packed in like sardines.

There were always many motorbike, tuk-tuk drivers and others pestering you for business. Most irritating, as were the other hawkers trying to sell you stuff you didn't want (e.g. old ladies selling little bunches of flowers). I suppose it is a normal hassle in this part of the world. At least they are out there trying to earn a living unlike so many wasters in the UK lounging idly and comfortably at home on generous 'benefits'!

Left: Another exuberantly decorated Jeepney. I wonder who 'Sherryl' is?

I mentioned earlier of the need to find either bridges or underpasses to get across those blasted motorways. All of them seemed to house down-and-out homeless people (right) and there were many beggars of various descriptions on the streets. There is a rather squalid side to this city.

That will have to do for now and I haven't even started on the more interesting sights and experiences I encountered, let alone my trips outside Manila. I will get around to it one day!

MÁS MANILA

7th - 8th Dec 2025

Interesting 'artwork' on a tall apartment block in the west side.

I must say I found (still do) the make up of the huge Manila Metropolis difficult to understand with all its different districts, administrative areas and 'cities' included in a most confusing manner. For simplicity's' sake I only refer to the 'areas' listed in my basic guide book namely: City of Manila (Incl. Intramuros), Quezon City, Makati & BGC (Bonefacio Global City), Pasay & Parañaque. On my two seperate visits I based myself in the Makati area. I attach a poor photo from my 'Lonely Planet' which might give you some idea. Click on to enlarge:

'Find Your Way'? An optimistic proposition!

On day 2 I was taken, by car, on a very interesting guided tour, mainly of the upmarket southern and western areas towards Manila Bay. My charming host and driver, Neil, is a Filipino and friend of a friend of mine in UK. He has lived for most of his life in the USA but now returned 'home'.

We travelled towards Manila Bay, an area of which a large part has been reclaimed from the sea…and they are still 'reclaiming' more.

Much of the area towards the Bay consists of enormous skyscrapers very upmarket apartment blocks and vast shopping malls plus some obscenely flash and ostentatious hotels and casinos. Left: This, the Okada, is an example, of several, of a combined hotel and casino complex. I was told the best 'suites' for guests here cost in the region of 30,000 US$ per night! I tend to top out at 30 US$ per night in probably much more amusing places!

Another flash area we passed (stopped at an entrance) was Forbes Park, a gated (with armed guards) housing estate in the south of the Makati area. Right: Not my photo, but gives you an idea of the place. Houses on sale for up to 30-40 million US$. I was told it caters to the wealthy and often corrupt billionaires who like an 'untraceable' means of hiding their ill-gotten gains.

Left: At the opposite end of the scale are  several areas of abject poverty, mostly in the port districts of Tondos and Esteros to the north-west of the metropolis…but there are other similarly disgusting crime and drug infested squalid slums elsewhere. Not safe places for tourists, or even the police, to venture into! A bit like Birmingham in the UK during the rubbish collectors' strike.

I was warned that wandering the streets as a tourist can be dangerous, especially after dark, with potential for armed robbery a risk, presumably by residents of the above. I did a bit of wandering but fortunately never experienced anything threatening. The only frequent hassle I got was from touts on the streets trying to flog dodgy cell-phones, watches and, above all, packets of viagra and cialis! I resisted the temptation and soon bored them away with my inane 'conversation'. Quite amusing actually!

Many streets around town are named after past American high ranking military and political grandees such as Taft, Lincoln, MacArthur, Pershing, Lawton, Harrison and several more. As you may be aware, the Philippines was 'discovered' in 1521 by Ferdinand Magellan (he was killed in battle there), colonised by the Spanish in 1565 and named after Spanish King Phillip 11. During the Spanish/American war in 1898 it was captured and colonised by America. The Japs invaded in 1941 and temporarily chased the Yanks out but they returned after the Japanese surrender. It gained full independence in 1946.

Right: Another amusing bit of artwork in the Bay area. 

By chance we ended up in an amusing Irish Pub in Makati called O'Reilly's (left). There are two other 'Oirish Bears' in Manila, apparently. It featured two well patronised Pool tables, a dartboard and several pretty young ladies who were very 'sociable'. No Guiness! It seems the only beer that I recognise served in most establishments here is either San Miguel or Red Horse.

If you hadn't got anyone else to play with, one of the 'enthusiastic' ladies was only too keen to oblige (Right).

We didn't bother and just enjoyed a good chat and drink…and were joined by quite an amusing American after temporarily dumping his lady Pool partner. Many thanks Neil!

Off tomorrow to have a look around Intramuros, the old part of the city to the north end and try to find a tourist information office, and a post office to send some cards. 

PS. The small hotel I am staying at in Makati has an 'en-suite' room (25US$ pn) is perfectly comfortable with good Wi-Fi etc, despite rather a lack of hot water; none at the washbasin and only tepid in the shower! It is called Nest Nano Suites. The staff at reception are most charming and helpful and it is within easy walking distance of some decent shops (7Eleven stores in profusion) and one particularly good restaurant which I have subsequently patronised. The only real problem is that a rooster and dog have a loud ongoing crowing/barking match at each other just below my room from about 4.00am onwards! Shotgun required.

So much more to follow and at this rate I will be writing this until Easter…...

A THRILLA IN MANILA…MAYBE?

 4th - 6th Dec 2025

Well, it's that time of year again, so my 'Chrexit 25' is now underway. First stop the Philippines, which is one of many countries I had not yet visited.

True to my miserly choosing of the cheapest options I got a late evening flight on 4th December with China Airways from London Heathrow involving a five hour stop-over in Chengdu/ Tianfu before flying on to Manila. 

That was over a period of 20 hours and, due to the time differences going east, incorporated two nights. China Airlines were most efficient and on time and I have absolutely no complaints about their service. However, jammed up in a small seat on both flights I arrived in Manila at 1.30am on the 6th December having had no sleep. An efficient, and surprisingly cheap, Grab taxi then took me to my cheapo hotel in the Makati district of the city. Left: Ninoy Aquino airport in Manila.

I was quite knackered and after a suitable kip ventured out to have a look around the area.

Manila is a complex and vast metropolitan arrangement of districts and each with it's own distinctive characteristics. The 'city' itself is the old 'walled' part to the north straddling the Pasig River. To its east is Quezon City, to the south-east is Makati and Bonefacio Global City (BFC) and to the south Pasay and Parañaque. Manila Bay runs down the western side. The whole area being known collectively as 'Metro Manila'. Or 'Metro Traffic Jam' as I came to call it. Makati, the district in which I am staying, is renowned for its restaurants, bars, nightclubs, nightlife and the very friendly ladies who frequent some of these establishments.

Right: An area around here has streets named after various planets and cosmic terminology. Curious? I can't think why.

On my initial brief 'recce', I passed a few interesting venues. Left: This restaurant, 'Pardon My French', looked inviting and I liked the name. In fact I was given a look inside and it is very smart with an elegant dining area plus balconies and a stage for a band. I was told the band plays (1970s/80s music) during the evening sessions. I vowed to return for a meal at some stage.

Right: Click on to enlarge and read the board at the bottom. This establishment, called 'Bottoms', certainly captured my imagination. I was particularly intrigued by the advertised 'Midget Oil Wrestling'. I suspect this sort of place would be frowned upon in UK.

Left: The 'House Rules' at the entrance. I'm not sure what sort of clientele they are expecting….

Right: A thought-provoking sign on the door of a single street-side room which was being refurbished. I don't know who (or what) 'Lady Bedspacer' is, possibly one of many 'Labour' newly appointed grandees, but I can think of a few acquaintances who match this description. I was tempted to give them a call.

Left: A pleasant restaurant, the Tiabuela, near my hotel which I patronised and which offered decent food and drink at surprisingly cheap prices. In fact  during my very short time so far in this city I have been surprised at the relatively cheap price of food and drink; about half the price we pay in UK. Oh yes! The reindeer horns and Father Christmas hats have come out in force already. 😫.

This tardy 'initial' report covers only the first 24 hrs of my Manila experience. I am getting idle. Old age creeping up I suspect. 

I close now for the time being and much, much more to come when I get my act together. Stand-by!