WASHINGTON DC

19th Feb 2011

Driven first to Arlington to be shown the cemetery. This is no ordinary cemetery; for a start it is vast. Can't remember the acreage but about 300,000 people are buried there and going up at a rate of 100 per week. The place will be full by 2030, I think the guide in our 'Tourmobile' said. There are strict rules about who can be planted here. You have to have served in one of the military arms, or be a spouse or unmarried son or daughter of the planted, up to a maximum of 4 per family, and dead of course. ( something like that anyway ).

Naturally all the political and military big-wigs are buried here, with several 'sites' devoted to particular

groupings, and lots of memorials and elaborate monuments. The Kennedys are in the most prestigious spot ( JFK and Mrs, and two children ) with Bobby and Edward buried about 30yds away.

Left: simple plot for Bobby K and, right, the more elaborate 'tomb' of JFK and his family, with a burning thing at the back.

On the hill-top is the splendid Arlington House. This was the home ( up to the Civil War ) of Gen Robert E Lee. It was, eventually, returned to his family. We had a look around it but it was undergoing extensive internal renovations. A good view over Washington from there if nothing else.

Left: the front of Arlington House.





Below right: the view over Washington from the front door. Not sure what the white table thing is. Maybe for eating 'al fresco' or perhaps where his cats are buried.

The next thing we witnessed was the 'Changing of the Guard' at the tomb of the Unknown Warrior.

This is a 10 minute ceremony performed every hour. The tomb is, apparently, guarded by a Marine 24 hrs a day, 365 days a year  regardless of weather conditions, according to the guide. I believe him.

The guard change-over involves a SNCO Marine giving orders to the other two ( but first a gruff instruction to the viewing public to remain silent during the ceremony and show due respect ). Lots of slow ponderous marching, elaborate inspection of the new guard's rifle ( take 'is name Sarn't, rusty barrel ), clicking of heels etc and unintelligible words of command. The most noticeable feature to me was that the marines wore

dark sunglasses! Good heavens, I can just picture my Sergeant Major at Sandhurst's reaction to that! ..." Mr Sample, Sir, what the blinkin' 'eck are those things on your face?...Do yoo think yoo are goin' on 'oliday in the bloody Ba'aamas? Well I've got news for yoo, Sir!.. yor goin' on 'oliday in the bleedin' Guardroom !!!! Leffriteleffriteleffrite.."

  Left:The Changing of the Guard, Marine style

   We set off down to Washington. Again, I was thoroughly impressed by the wide open and clean spaces, the grand Official Government buildings, the imposing memorials and monuments, ultra-smart and expensive hotels and restaurants and the general air of affluence and elegance in that part of the city. It certainly has a 'wow' factor, but then I suppose it needs to, to impress visiting VIPs and Heads of State.  What I was told, but did not see, is that over a half of the city consists of run-down and dangerous black ghettos with an appalling crime rate and squalid poverty. I can't comment because, as I said, I didn't see it.

The Lincoln Memorial is quite imposing. Photos below:

 Left: Abraham Lincoln. ....but apart from that, Mrs Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?

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Right: His Gettysburg Address. A very long one, if you ask me. Presumably this was an early form of a Telepromp Screen.

Other memorials, the Washington and Jefferson equally grand, plus the Washington Monument ( which we didn't have time to go up ) and, of course, the White House were viewed. Also the Vietnam Memorial Wall, on which are engraved the names of the 63,000 ( I think ) killed in that war. Another quite interesting statistic ( and my figures may be a little out );  approximately 230,000 soldiers were killed in the American Civil War ( 1861-1865 ) and a total of ( approx ) 250,000 US soldiers have been killed in all the other wars put together that the US has fought in. The Civil War must have been incredibly nasty.

















Above: the Vietnam Wall Memorial. The guys in yellow jackets are Vietnam 'Vets'.

Right: Monument to a night out in the Apocalypse Club-a-Go-Go in Saigon ( District 1 ). Dreadful place. I know how they feel.


There were other, many other, sights to see.  Time ran out because Mr K and I were feeling a bit peckish so we went for a rather smart 'late lunch' at some luxurious emporium next to the Willard Hotel on Pennsylvania Avenue.





Left: view from the Lincoln Memorial steps ( remember Forest Gump ? ) over the 'reflecting lake' to the Washington Monument. The lake was empty due to renovations. Vietnam Wall to the left and Korea memorial to the right.

Right: The Capitol building.

Last, but not least, the White House (left). We were watched with intense suspicion by a heavily armed lady policeman in the car in front. She got out to tell us to go away. I didn't look suspicious!

OK, not quite last because I had this pic of the Washington Monument hanging around.
So, back to Washington Union Station to catch the 1500hrs Wriggley Tin train south ( 10.75hrs ) to Columbia, South Carolina.
More to follow..................eyes peeled! Troi Oi, as they say in 'Nam.

VIRGINIA

13th - 19th February 2011

.........in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, on the Trail of the Lonesome Pie..eeeeeeeen......!

Sorry ( to those few who read this rubbish ) for the slight hiatus since leaving the 'Big Lemon', or whatever it's called, and arriving in the Confederate State of Virginia. I was met by an ex-army friend who entertained me so well that I have scarcely had time, or been  sober enough, to fire up the old computer.
I left from Penn' Station ( under Madison Square Gardens ) on the Amtrak train to Washington DC ( 3.5hrs ). Very efficient and simple internet system to get tickets for these rail journeys. Curious trains; the carriages are made out of 'wriggley tin'. Much more space inside than the British cattle trucks ( I suppose they cater for a 'different sized' human than elsewhere ), but the food served at the buffet is both expensive and indescribably awful. Also, I don't know who built the railway lines, presumably drunken Chinese navvies, because the ride you get is seriously bone-shaking. It's almost impossible to read a book ( or, fantastic bit of kit, Kindle ), and don't even think of writing. The beer is foul and watery, and most of the stuff I tried to drink ended up over the fat 'Hispanic' lady overflowing in the seat next to me. She didn't appear to notice. She was a large land-mass.

Left: 'Wriggly Tin' Amtrak train

Right: Penn' Station/ Madison Square Gardens

        Left: a 'different sized' human being.

    We passed through 'New Joisey', which was rather desolate; stations like Liberty International, Metropark and snow and ice covered dirty industrial wasteland. Through the dismal township of Trenton which, on a large signboard, boasted 'Trenton makes...the World takes'. I think it has now all been took.
On past Philadelphia which looked pretty grotty ( and I was subsequently told that 'grotty' was only the best parts of the town ), Wilmington, over the end of Chesapeake Bay, Baltimore and into Washington.
Fantastic station at Washington ( these US stations all appear to be magnificent).

  

             Right: Washington Station

Picked up by aforementioned ex-army friend, K, and driven in his frightfully smart Merc to his Farm, at Flint Hill, about 60 miles SW in Rappahannick County. Rappahannick boasts of having absolutely no traffic lights. It is true, and the system works marvellously. Another lesson to be learnt here, I feel. So much space, and glorious hilly wooded countryside and the Blue Ridge mountains did look a hazy sort of blue. This is all part of the Shenandoah National Park. K ( who has not become any less mad with age.....does anyone from Omagh remember him picking up the D(WRAC).. a fearsome bossy female Brigadier...in a Sioux helicopter dressed as a WRAC Corporal, skirt above the knees and all? I don't think the D(WRAC) will have! ). The farmland is home to lots of horses and cattle. Riding is done in a very English way with fox-hunting popular ( and no fear of it being banned there ), point-to-points, Hunt Balls, 'hunting' deer ( stalking ), trail riding, fishing and lots of other 'country' activities. There is a multiplicity of wildlife. An extraordinary variety of creatures live there; lots black bears in the woods ( they were kipping at this time of the year, thankfully ), raccoons, white-tailed deer, vultures, buzzards, eagles of the bald-headed variety, skunks ( which were mainly apparent as 'road-kill') , snakes of great variety and venomosity and, rather tediously, things called Stink Bugs. These pesky critters are about the size of bluebottles, have a somewhat ugly prehistoric look and fly sluggishly and infest houses. If you squash them they give off a rather curious smell. They cling to the folds of curtains and get on clothes, everywhere, and are, apparently, immune to any form of pesticide ( a fortune to be made here perhaps?). Maybe I will bring some back to UK to show you!! There are bound to be some in my bag.

 Above: K. Does anyone recognise this guy?

Pics below of K and his missus' farm and general area to give you a general impression.

The houses in the area are predominantly of the 'clapboard' wooden variety ( pronounced 'clabberd' ). See pic to left. They are very pretty and, obviously, robust because the weather in winter can be severe: snow and ice and wind, and in summer blazing hot. We are at 39 deg N, same as Lisbon, Portugal. The villages and towns are picturesque and clean, with housing well spaced out. It is this very aspect of 'space' and lack of crowding and traffic which is so pleasant and, indeed, impressive. And the number of churches! Each village, it seems, has at least 3 if not more churches. Flint Hill ( pop 300 ) has 4. There is always 1 Baptist ( White ), 1 Baptist ( Black ) and 1 or 2 others, maybe Pentecostal or some other whacky religion ( ever heard of the 'Holy Rollers'? ). It should be remembered that Virginia ( as opposed to West Virginia ) was, and if truth be known still is, one of the leading Confederate ( secessionist ) states in the Civil War. The first battles were fought around there. Gen Robert E Lee lived near Washington ( Arlington ). Whether you like it or not there is still a noticeable 'segregation' of black and white, especially in the country areas, but of a totally voluntary nature on both sides. They live, play and worship happily apart. The blacks are affectionately referred to as 'boons'. It is extraordinary, from what little I have yet seen, that the Unionist/Confederate divide is still very much there, under the surface.


Left: Typical architecture, but this place, called 'The Inn' is a very plush and expensive restaurant in a nearby town.

The village had a great 'Pub', called the Griffin Tavern which struggled to emulate a British establishment. It sold Boddingtons. K and I went there one evening to join in their equivalent of a Pub Quiz. I joined a team of 4 locals and, believe it or not, we won! $15 each and maybe a mention in the Rappahannock Times. I think I knew the answer to one question. It was 'King George VI'. I would have shown a photo of the place but it was out of focus.

I was taken to a nearby site of one of the Civil War battles, indeed the first; at Manassas in July 1861. It was a resounding victory for the 'Rebs' ( Confederates ). The Unionists thought it was going to be a push-over and families even went along to spectate. They thought it would be the beginning and the end of the 'uprising'. It was where Gen Jackson gained the monica 'Stonewall'. History records that one of the Confederate Officers shouted to weary dispirited troops " Rally behind Jackson, there he stands like a stonewall". It is thought, in reality, something somewhat more robust was said.


Left: Statue of 'Stonewall' Jackson at Manassas. The guide told us ( we were the only 2 tourists there ) that a lot of artistic licence was used here. Gen Jackson was a lanky rather scruffily dressed character riding, badly, a 13.2 hh pony. He has been 'beefed up' for posterity.

I visited several towns in the area and they were all pleasant and the locals unfailingly charming, helpful and embarrassingly polite. Culpeper was notable, as was Front Royal, where we went to check on trains at their rail-station. You don't get them ( or the staff ) like it in UK. Again, I expect this is a function of space and lack of crowds.




Left: Culpeper station ticket office.


For those with an equestrian interest, I have a couple of photos ( below ) of the local pt-to-pt course. Sadly there was not a meeting on while I was around. There are many such attractive courses with races over timber, hurdles ( lowish brush fences ), flat and pony races. The format and 'social scene' is very similar to the British set up ie. lots of car-boot picnics and people 'tripping over bloody molehills'.
All splendidly amateur and fun.



















Local course. Just to give an idea of the 'empty' layout ( a good galloping 1.5 mile circuit ) and an example of one of their timber fences ( 6 per mile ). Not too high but totally unforgiving! ( no wings ). I'm told other courses have 5 barred ones, and more ambulances.



Another interesting aspect of daily life: The Gunshop. They are as common as 'Macdonalds'. This one, inside of which the photo below shows, was in a lay-by near a highway and completely isolated. It sold everything from shotguns, to .50 cal. sniper rifles via pistols, automatic rifles and virtually any weapon you could think of. Unreal. There was a big emphasis placed on 'home defence', and instruction manuals and 'family' courses advertised. I asked if he sold tanks. Apparently not. ( no demand, probably due to increased price of 'gas' ). Anyone can carry a weapon, provided it is not hidden. That's naughty.

Above: K putting in his weekly order for ammo.


This system seems to result in remarkably few home burglaries, but a surprisingly high number of pub
fights with AK47s. It would not go well down at The Grapes! ( you there Barbara?)


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The small horse, left, is an American 'Quarter Horse', down on K's farm. They have a pleasant nature and move very fast over very short distances. A bit like me, really.

The couple, right, are Amish. This lot are based mainly in Pennsylvania but there are quite a few in Virginia. Originally from Germany or maybe Holland, they are a 'Menonite' religious sect who live a rather 'fundamental' life-style but have good skills in woodwork, building sheds and leather ( saddlery ) and , by the look of it, false beards. You do not see many of them in the Griffin Tavern, or Las Vegas for that matter. The other 'grouping' which travel around the area are the 'Hispanics'. "Arriba arriba!! Pow Pow, dance Gringo". They are the guys who do all the casual labour and are much employed in that way. Apart from a very good lunch in a 'Pancho Villa' diner, I did not see any Hispanics. I was treated to several 'shots' of Tequila, but I don't think it will catch on at the Morpeth Pt-to-Pt.

 K and his wife ( who does horses ), living in great style in Virginia. I attach a vid below, which probably won't work. It's an experiment; in any event, he wouldn't say anything!

OK, now off to Washington for a semi-conducted tour before catching the 'wriggley tin' train down South to Columbia, South Carolina ( 10.5 hrs ). Onwards and downwards...... more to follow....

PS I seem to have screwed up on these vids! There's one at top and bottom and I can't get rid of them! Grin and bear it. I suspect they won't work anyway.

NOO YAWK, NOO YAWK !!

9th - 12th February.

On finals to NYC ( Manhattan Island )

Well, we made it ashore. The much feared immigration guys turned out, contrary to dreaded expectations, to be rather jolly! No hassle and their 'leader' even said good luck and please spend lots of your money in NYC, we need it. He needn't have worried on that score!

Left: Claude and PP approaching NYC ( actually going left to Newark container port) )

  

 
 

Claude, Oxbridge and I got a 'taxi', mini-bus, into 'midtown' NYC ( $100 ). Florian was going on to Boston. Oxbridge announced that he hadn't got any money! Guess who paid. I had decided to go to the Algonquin Hotel ( pic on left ) near Times Square, which I had heard of. Oxbridge came with me to dump his luggage ( consisting largely of academic notes and journals ) at the hotel, and they didn't bat an eye-lid! Part of the extraordinary 'service culture' that subsequently amazed me. He said he would come back to collect and repay me the $30 taxi fare he owed. Oh yeah. But he did, and I bought him a gin & tonic. That, coincidently, cost $27 plus a $3 tip! I began to realise that a) I was taken for a mug and b) life in NYC was not going to be cheap.

He then went on his 'academic' way, Claude had apparently gone to a cheapo hostel on 'upper Eastside' and I settled into the Algonquin. It is a place of historical note. Lots of writers and 'celebs' have used it in the past. It is one of NY's oldest and certainly has a quaint dark oak-panelled feel to it. Sandwich, $ 24 + tip. I was quickly made aware that every bar/restaurant service has at least 2 extra 'taxes' added, plus you are expected to pay a 15% tip on top of that!

Next day I wandered up to Central Park. The temperature was below freezing but blue skies and bright sunshine. Extraordinarily opulent and expensive areas around 5th Avenue. The nags pulling the tourist carriages didn't look very opulent.  Pic of one on the right...... just before collapsing with colic from eating pigeons ( no, only joking! )

Left: Bit of the south edge of Central Park.

I wandered. Went to an extraordinary 'secret bar' in East Village ( Downtown ). This was on the advice of a friend. It was at 113 St Mark's, if anyone becomes interested. Place is fronted by a small Hot Dog restaurant called 'Crif Dogs'. In there they have a telephone kiosk. I was instructed to go into the kiosk and wait. I did, nothing happened. I banged on various walls getting a bit claustrophobic. Then I saw a sign which told me to dial a number. Did so, and the back of the kiosk opened into a rather small, but smart, 'cocktail bar' with stuffed animals around the walls. Fun ( and thanks for the info Bella ). I had a beer, wisely as it turned out, because: WARNING: beware American cocktails.

Travelled around in both 'yellow' taxis and on the subway. Both excellent. Both cheaper than London. Of course it is all made easier by the 'Grid' system of the city's streets/avenues, and actually Manhattan, where I was exclusively, is not that big, geographically.

Right: Subway train. Spacious and clean and not so many unintelligible bloody 'announcements' as on the cacophonous London system.

Met up with an old army aquaintance who showed me around a bit. Went for a brilliant lunch in a pub in West Village called 'The Spotted Pig', run by an English lady. Served sensible food and real ale! I must say, I couldn't fathom out the New York nosh ( or drinks, for that matter ). Over the counter stuff was all hot-dogs, hamburgers ( which had to be wheeled in, not carried ), and something called 'Pastrami', which, to date, I have yet to find out what it actually is. They love to cover their food with 'gloop' and all the drinks tend to be sweet, even their beer. So the 'Spotted Pig' was a breakthrough in British cuisine ( thanks Paddy ). This mate of mine encouraged me to go to a place called Schillers' Liquor Store, East Village again, to experience a good all American night out with good cocktails. He said I must, when in Manhattan, try a Manhattan. I did, and the 'Manhattan' was a 'big' drink ( $12 ) and tasted quite revolting, somewhat akin to a sweet cough medicine. I managed half. Any more and I would definitely have thrown up spectacularly, hence: beware American cocktails.

I didn't tell them about the infamous ' Spiny Norman'. I don't think America is ready for that yet.

Visited Ellis Island, the place where the ( poorer ) immigrants were processed, largely between 1880 - 1920. Quite interesting. Didn't see any record of anyone I might be related to. 

Right: Baggage Hall in the Ellis Island Reception Centre. Not much different to Terminal 5, on a good day.

Above: Reception Hall at Ellis Island

Right: Dock and reception building at Ellis Island.

Whizzed around and changed hotels ( wallet not big enough for long at the Algonquin ). Moved into a curious place called the 'Ace Hotel', 29th/Broadway. Not too expensive (by NY standards) and 'quirky'. I think they said it was 'Street Chique and Antique'. Difficult to describe, but had strange furnishings. Recommended.

Left: Had to take a photo of this on the way over to Ellis Island. If this was in UK it would likely be sporting a Man United football shirt and have a traffic cone on it's head.

I found all people that I spoke to so utterly, embarrasingly, hospitable. They ( people in the street, pubs etc. ) were genuinely curious about who I was and where I came from. OK, maybe I did look a bit out of place with my tweed cap and plus-fours. Nevertheless, when I said I was from England, after the inevitable "aarsum" several asked me.... 'and how is The Queen?' Extraordinary! None of them had heard of, let alone cared about, our pontificating politicians, but they seemed to know and care about our Royal Family! They all knew about the forthcoming 'Wedding'. I said, as far as I am aware, she is well. Is there a lesson to be learnt  here?

      

Right: View of south Manhattan from our ferry.

          

Below: this statue is supposed to represent 'pleading and grateful immigrants'.  It looks to me like the end of any good squadron piss-up.

Went on a recce of Times Square There is no real Square, just a wide bit of the street with lots of theatres around and neon lights and prancing show-off fancy dress 'artistes'. Yawn yawn. I wasn't tempted to go to see any 'show', because I recognised that most of them were British imports and were done better and cheaper in London's West-End anyway.

Right: Times Square. Prancing 'artistes' of the 'vermin' variety, just before the machine gun opened up.

Had to go up to the 'Top of the Rock' (that's the Rockefeller Building ). Supposed to get photos before sunset and after. 70 stories high, and a good lift. Needs to be. It took less time to go up 70 floors than the lift in my apartment block in London takes to go up 3. Went up at 1630hrs ( daylight ), and had to hang about up there ( no cafe or any 'facilities' etc ) until 1800hrs to get night pics. A bit boring, but I got the photos so you have to look at them.

Left: View south from the 'Rock' ( Empire State Building centre ) daytime.







Then, below: same view night-time. OK, a bit dull, but it cost me $21 for the priviledge.

Went home via Grand Central Station. This really puts any railway station we Brits might possess into the shade. Not only architecturally impressive, but so clean and bright and user friendly. Incorporates smart restaurants and bars and shops. Spectacular ( especially the ceiling ). 

Below: Grand Central station concourse.

I went lots of places elsewhere too, and one could spend 3 weeks merely to scratch the surface of Noo Yawk City ( tourist wise ). I never even touched the museums and art galleries.

 One over-riding impression I have of New York ( and it may be true of all USA for all I know ), is the amazing service one receives.  It may be vastly expensive ( on the eating/drinking/accomodation fronts ), but you are always impressively well looked after. Hotel, bar, restaurant, shop, services staff, as well as anyone you ask for help on the street, falls over themself to welcome you, to give every assistance and to wish you farewell and do it with (I think) a genuine smile and seems to get pleasure from doing so. It rather puts into perspective the often surly, sullen and reluctant service given by our indolent, unhelpful, rude and selfish 'jobsworth' equivalents in UK. It makes them look utterly pathetic in comparison. I don't suppose I am the first to notice this! But we do have better, and cheaper, beer.

 I move on tomorrow, by train, to Virginia, as guest of an infamous ex-army friend. I will send photos, and some might even recognise him. I dare not reveal his address and the photos will have his eyes blacked out...............hang on in here!

Noo Yawk, Noo Yawk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

                                                                              

CROSSING THE POND

1st - 9th Feb 2011

Hello! Spent 9 days incommunicado on 'The Flying Pig' under command of Kapitan Pugwasche. We survived, amazingly. Now in NYC having arrived yesterday at 1100hrs. I made a 'diary' of our crossing but this has largely failed to 'transfer' to the blog ( you may be relieved to hear ), or at least the pics have. But, don't worry! I have managed to salvage most of it, even if a little delayed. If it doesn't work: bollocks.

Life on the Ocean Wave

Atlantic crossing

Le Havre to New York

1st to 9th Feb 2011

HMS TANZANIA

Tuesday 1st Feb. Day spent on ship watching a few French malingerers returning to work on the docks. I think they were slowly off/on loading containers. It was rumoured that we might be sailing that afternoon. After lunch ( pork knuckle and sauerkraut ) we passengers decided to make use of the extensive recreational facilities, vis weight-lifting machine, dart board, indoor swimming pool ( 3m x 4m of freezing sea water ), VHS video and ping-pong table. A French v English ping-pong match was agreed; Mr Oxbridge and me against Claude and Florian. No-one was too sure of the rules but the English won 2-1.

After supper ( 5.30pm - don’t be late or you miss it ) ship was preparing to leave. We sailed at 2000Z. Ship’s time now GMT.

Next morning we were, I think, somewhere off Land’s End. Weather was still remarkably calm. Holding fire on the seasick pills. Kapt P said we would be taking a more southerly route due to storms up north; similar to weather avoidance in ‘planes I suppose. I wandered up to the bridge. Only Ivan, the chatty Russian 2nd officer responsible for navigation, ship’s documents, and medic, was there. He was busy writing. No-one was at the controls because these ships operate like aircraft in that the navigation ; way-points, report points, turning points, is all pre-programmed into a GPNS system coupled to the steering. The power lever was set at ‘Full Ahead’ and heading still 245 degrees. I was tempted, again.

‘Tea’ in the recreation room followed by a return ping-pong match. The French won this time;          2-1. By golly I don’t know if I will be able to handle the excitement.

Tea mit Kapitan Hans-Joachim Muthwill ( aka Kapt Pugwasche ). L to R: Claude, Florian, ‘Oxbridge’ ( making notes ) und der Kapitan.

Woke at 0400hrs next morning because the engine had stopped and there was a loud graunching/screeching noise from outside.  The engine noise is normally just a muted rumble with a gentle vibration, but now silence....apart from the bloody loud screeching. We found out at breakfast, where graunching/screeching was now quite deafening ( but at least the engine was going again ) that there had been ‘ein kleine probleme’ mit an oil filter which had to be replaced, hence engine shut down. The noise was coming from containers scraping together because the ship 'bends' in the water. It was, apparently, normal. They didn’t warn us about this! Our position: 45.19 N 19.32 W, somewhere west of Finisterre. Weather and waves ( 4m ) and OK.

Tea again, and ‘practice’ ping-pong session because Oxbridge had not turned up. Probably studying something.

Funny thing, but the container noise stopped as suddenly as it had started. They must yell at each other during the night because the next night they were at it again. Actually managed to wake me up! Then, just after breakfast they shut up. Perhaps somebody feeds them.

Left: Die Motor ( a bit of it )

Today we were given a tour of the ship’s engine und transmission. The whole thing takes up 5 decks of space below and to the rear of the bridge/accomodation block. Der chief ‘Spanner’, Herr Lutzke, gave us a detailed description of each vast noisy kontraption und  blasensaugenmaschine, mit der grosse propeller on die ende. Trouble was, his English was a little ‘broken’ at the best of times and we had to wear ear-defenders against the noise of the machinery, so he just stood there in front of us opening and closing his mouth and we heard.............the engine. I think I gathered that each of the 9 pistons weighed 5 tons. It was all, however, enormous, extremely complex and very loud. I expect Oxbridge had it all worked out in under 5 mins. The rest of us were baffled. 

Left: Oxbridge with handy ship’s spanner

Right: propeller drive shaf

Below: Chief ‘Spanner’ describing the complexities of the engine control room. I was amazed by the scars and burns he had all over his hands and arms! I think he enjoyed his bier too.

Before lunch ( huhnebraten mit sauerkraut ) went to the bridge to check our position.  (42.22 N 27.42 W, north of the Azores, heading 241 ). Apparently we are going further south to avoid some more ‘weather’.

Read ship’s newspaper. Somehow the HQ in Rostock or Bremerhaven puts together a daily news-sheet which is transmitted by satellite. I learnt that despite appalling storms in New York and against all meteorological evidence, Punxsutawney Phil had emerged from his burrow to announce that spring in USA is just around the corner. Good on Phil. I suspect he is much more reliable than the buffoons in the London Met Office.

                            

                                                          Right: Punxsutawney Phil

Saturday, and the containers were remarkably quiet during the night. We were told at breakfast that there would be a ‘fish smoking’ outside on B deck today at 1600hrs. Whatever that might entail. Went to check our position at 1100hrs; ( 39.13N 37.29W, half-way across, heading 249 deg ). The weather was still calm and even a bit warm and sunny.  Then went for shower before lunch consisting of sausages. And I’ve been dying to say this......... ‘ going from Bad to Wurst’. Hahahahaha!!!!!

‘Fish Smoking’ was a sort of barbeque of, surprise, smoked fish smoked personally by the chief Spanner and involved large intakes of ‘Jaegermaester‘ und other Trinken. By design or coincidence we were standing next to the little ‘man-overboard‘ boat. As far as I remember it was not deployed ( before I left ).

Pic from Left: Ch. Spanner, Klaus ( mechanic ), Florian, Oxbridge, Victor, Evgenly, Andrei, Ivan,

Claude, und der Kapitan, at the 'Smoking'.

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Sunday, and the weather was bright and sunny with a calm sea. I must say, I have never before been subjected to such a long period with diddley-squat to do. Very relaxing, if at times a touch boring. Not even any good storms to write home about. Yet. Oxbridge, Claude and Florian are pleasant enough guys, but not exactly wild company. Oxbridge is very serious and rarely smiles; he said, for example, when I mentioned TV programmes like Fawlty Towers, that he did not approve of comedy which joked about people’s nationality, or funny accents. I suspect he is not a ‘huntin’, shootin’ fishin’ type’. He is a vegetarian.

We have tracked quite a long way south. Kapt P said our revised ETA in New York (Newark, actually ) is 0900 on Wed 9th; a little late.

      Left: relaxing at the Pointy End.         

                          Right: Claude doing his 'Titanic' thing.

                                                                                   

                

Monday and more after tea ping-pong. The English took a pasting. It’s now 3 - 1 to Les Frogs.

Only 2 tea times to go so we can, at best, hope to tie the series. Decision to be made whether I have a kip this afternoon, or read a book. Or wash my socks.                                                            As at 1100hrs, on my Daily Bridge Inspection, I reckoned we only had about 500 miles to go.  Oxbridge said he had to go off and construct a computer software programme to identify DNA cells, or something, and said he wouldn’t have time to play ping-pong. At supper Kapt P warned us to expect rough weather during the night. Rum/vodka ration was dished out from the RFT. Read more book then made sure I stowed my rollocks, lashed my binacle, belayed my halyard and spliced the mainbrace before hitting the hammock........ to await the storm..............

Which, as it turned out, was not quite of the ‘perfect’ variety. In fact it just blew a bit. I remember waking up when something fell off a shelf in the middle of the night ( thankfully not my whiskey ), but by 0700hrs it was just rather windy and no spectacular waves to take pictures of. A bit of a let-down really.

Not long to go. Last ‘tea-time’ followed by last Anglo-French ping-pong match. It was really close; 2-1 to Les Frogs and 24-22 in the last game. ‘A bas Les Francais’. They had the lucky waves.

We  ( passengers ) invited the ship’s officers ( plus Raul, our Phillipino cabin boy, or steward ) for a Trinken after supper.

Much Wein und Bier was trinken. Alles in ordnung. Incidently, I have not yet had the DVD returned which I lent to Kapt P two days ago. It was an educational newspaper freeby on the Atlantic War in 1914-18 featuring the German U-boat attacks on North Atlantic shipping. Maybe he enjoyed it so much he wants to take it home. He hasn’t mentioned it since.

We are due to meet the ‘pilot‘ at 0700hrs, tomorrow, Wednesday 9th, and dock in Newark at about 0930hrs. Following a rigorous interrogation by US immigration heavies, we will then be free to leave the ship, hopefully. 

OK, that is the diary from the rather boringly uneventful trans-Atlantic crossing on HMS Tanzania. Tomorrow ( if I don't upset the immigration gorillas too much ) I will be looking for accomodation in Noo Yawk. I wonder what pitfalls await me there ( I am told they can be a touch 'politically correct'.  Wait Out...............