CHECKIN' KYIV

 7th - 8th May 2022

From the railway station I took the Metro underground, with one change, to the Palats Sporty station which is near where I was to stay, the Hotel Rus, to the south of the city centre near the Olympic Stadium. As mentioned, it is a free and ticketless service. However, at every entrance there is a security guard who is required to check your ID (passport in my case) before you are let inside. They are concerned about 'hostile' infiltrators.

The trains do not arrive as frequently as they used to, maybe every 10 - 15 minutes, and the the platforms get very crowded. As you might expect, the carriages are packed (left). I subsequently used them often, and we were always crammed in like sardines, but they are reliable and clean. There are 3 underground lines around the city.

Kyiv boasts the deepest underground station in the world, Arsenalna, at 346ft deep. They were constructed with air-raid shelters in mind (very prescient!). London Underground's deepest is Hampstead at a modest 190ft. However, I believe, and I've been there, that Pyongyang, North Korea, has one at 360ft, but maybe they are just bragging. The elevators here are indeed very long and this pic (right) was taken halfway up!

Right: The Hotel Rus. It looks rather Soviet grim, but has comfortable rooms, excellent room service, convivial staff and is conveniently located. It was where I stayed in 2018. I was given a very cut-price rate. I am up on the 11th floor with a good view over the city. I have been scanning the skies for incoming rockets and Ruskie jets with camera poised. So far with no sightings!  

They are, as you can imagine, a bit short of customers at the moment. I discovered that they had closed two of the original three bars, including what was a very nice terrace bar on the ground floor. I believe several other hotels have shut, understandably, even some very upmarket ones. Apart from lack of customers, they suffer from a lack of staff. I'm surprised that the multitude of journalists, TV presenters and crews and other media reps around here over the past weeks, on vast expense accounts, haven't made up for lack of tourists. I suspect they have moved on to find some 'action' elsewhere. I will do my best to increase turnover in the remaining bar here.

I discovered early on that there is a strange, and in my opinion illogical and irritating, law that forbids the sale or purchase of alcoholic drink before 11.00am and after 4.00pm. It is reminiscent of some of the farcical rules that were imposed on us at the beginning of the Covid 'panicdemic' in UK. However, bars, restaurants and hotels, but not shops, will supply alcohol at any time provided you pay for it in cash, not credit card or on the hotel bill etc, ie. there is no record of the time they sell it. I suppose people just stock up from shops between 11.00am and 4.00pm. I'm not sure what it really achieves....but when in Rome etc.

There is a very decent bar/restaurant at the bottom of the hotel driveway, the 'Just Beer Bar' (left). They sell 14 different types of ale and lager and play 1960s/70s music. The tattoed barmaid, Katriana, and her sidekick are most amusing hosts. Katriana does a bit of singing and dancing to keep us entertained. They also serve good food. There is a pleasant outdoor terrace but, in the present sunny afternoons, you are not allowed to drink alcohol outside after 4.00pm (see above). By the way, the beers here cost, on average, about £2.30p a pint which is rather cheaper than in UK.

On my first day of wandering around the city, the weather was gloriously sunny and life seemed remarkably normal even if there was a noticeable lack of tourists who normally flock here at this time of year. There were several cafés and bars which appeared to be well patronised. One got no feeling that the locals were particularly anxious or nervous about the present situation.

There are a lot of flower shops around the place, many in the underground subways which you use to cross under the main roads (a very sensible solution). I think Ukraine grows a lot of flowers, and they did good business.

These 'hookah' pipes (right) were popular at many outdoor cafés. I've never tried one and don't know much about them. They don't seem to have caught on in UK, but I'm sure they would probably be banned almost everywhere. We are world leaders in banning things. 

Left: On north up Vul Khreshchatyk (left), the main drag leading towards the famous Maydan Square in the centre of Town. The scene of the notorious massacre of 100 protesters in 2014. There are some elegant and impressive buildings, albeit rather 'Stalinesque', lining the road. My pic does not do it justice.

Arriving at the Maydan there are a reminders of the ongoing war. Anti-tank obstacles (pushed to the side of the road) and several rather bored looking soldiers in attendance. (right).

Left: Sandbag emplacements, some in a state of collapse, were in evidence, as they are  in other parts of the city. Not all in a state of collapse I hasten to add.

Right: The north-easten corner of the square.

Left: A more general view of the present day Maydan looking west. All quiet and without the normal throng of pedestrians and 'entertainers'.

Right: At the eastern side is the Independence Column with the winged figure of Berehynia on top. She has a nickname, which I've forgotten. Possibly Beryl.  

There were various notices and placards stuck around the area This one (left) was advertising recruitment for the 'Foreign Legion' of military helpers. So if you have the requisite requirements and kit and are interested, do please contact Nazar at the Medyka Border. Not sure what 'under 50+/- age' means, but I suspect, fortunately, I am a bit past it.

I noticed that they have sandbagged some of the shops (right). This MacDonald's disgusting eatery at the near end has been left open to attack. Indeed all the MacDonalds here are closed. So at least this war has had some beneficial effect on the nation's health

Left: I hadn't noticed this museum previously. The 'Museum of Jellyfish'. It is at the far side of the Independence Monument. It could be fascinating and I must pay it a visit later. I don't suppose there are many people that interested by and expert on jellyfish. 

Right: This guy (like the drummer character, Animal, from the Muppets} was making an appalling and deafening row at the corner of Maydan. He was still going after at least 3 hours. A potent Ukrainian weapon to deter any invaders perhaps. Most people stayed well clear of him.

Left: This chap was somewhat more melodious. Perhaps he should get together with the bloke above.

Talking of music I was informed thet the singer Bono and someone, or something, called 'The Edge' (of whom/what I've never heard) are over here and performing in underground Metro stations with some Ukrainian soldiers. I have not come across them so far. Thankfully. It might relieve the congestion down there.

Right: Manning the barricades onto the Maydan. "They shall not pass!".......so you can't say I'm not doing my bit to protect the city.

By the way, they have been sounding off air-raid warning sirens two or three times a day. Nothing seems to happen and nobody takes a blind bit of notice. They carry on as normal. Either these alarms are designed to keep people on their toes (which it doesn't seem to) or Corporal (Retd) Nobby Clarkski who is manning the button is bored and just pushes it to see if it works. 

I'll leave it there for the moment. Plenty more to report in due course.