30th - 31st Mar 2025
Extraordinary! Further to my last I have left Kazakhstan and just arrived in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. After a very tiresome train journey and just before going to bed (its 0115hrs here on the 5th April) I tried, out of interest, to test logging in to amend or add to my dreaded blog. Unlike the total failure in Almaty, it worked here without any problems! I suspect Kazakhstan, for some reason, blocks access to the 'Blogger' system. Maybe some over-enthusiastic 'Blogger' said something rude about them! I have masses to catch up on so will, if the system still allows, be posting some more gems of interest to bore you with when time permits. In the meanwhile I have some travellin' to do, so stand-by for more highlights from Travellin' Uncle Matt in due course.
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| Almaty looking South towards the Alatau mountains |
Left: The Kazakh national flag.
Right: The Almaty city map. This thoroughly disorientated me! The top is to the South. I am automatically hard-wired to assume the top of any map indicates North. OK, turn the map around, but then the writing is upside down. Apparently it is the custom here to have the map orientated to the South as that is the high/mountainous area. No, me neither….!! The 'central' part is to the left (ie. East).
Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan at the south-east end of the country. The capital city is Astana to the north.
One thing I have been made aware of in this part of the world is its complicated and often brutal history. It has suffered sweeping invasions and massacres from many sources and directions, including that of the dreaded Mr Genghis Khan and his Mongol hordes in the early 13th century. The 'Stans' in this area (see map on previous blog) were part of the Soviet Union until they gained their independence in 1991. As such, the place names of cities have changed regularly. Almaty was called Verniy (1854), Alma-Ata (1921) and Almaty since 1992. All most confusing! The 'Stans' are predominantly Muslim, with a smaller Russian Authodox community (and others). The Muslims here seem to be very 'Muslim-lite', ie. many ladies wear the 'hijab' scarf thing, but they are in no way the radical Islamic type and certainly don't wear burkas or face coverings (as far as I have seen). They are very 'liberal' Muslims and rather conservative; somewhat secular in fact. There is certainly no "Allua Akbar" loudspeaker noise from the mosques! The majority of the people have a slightly 'Oriental' (Mongolian?) appearance and others 'Slavic' (ie Russian types). From what I have experienced so far they are all very polite, helpful, well dressed and well behaved! I feel safe. Outside hotels, big restaurants and tourist advice centres (of which there are several) not much English is spoken. They speak either, or both, Russian and Kazakh. Most of the signage (street signs) etc. is written in Cyrillic script which can make navigation a bit difficult for me as, unfortunately I don't speak much Russian ("Ya nya gavaryoo pa Ruski"…"I don't speak Russian" is something I remember, and perhaps "niet" and "da"), nor, curiously, any Kazakh. I have learnt the Kazakh for 'thank you'; "Rachmiert". I am quickly getting the hang of the Cyrillic writing! Google Maps and Google Translate on my i-phone are fairly vital, when I am connected to WiFi…..which is not always as I haven't bought a local Sim card (too mean!).
P.S. Why do many Muslim ladies like to wear hijabs or other head coverings? Because it is traditional and a display of modesty basically, and fashionable. In the same way that some English gentlemen like to wear cloth caps perhaps!
I stayed, initially, at a very pleasant and inexpensive hotel, The Renion City, at the north-east corner of town. It is close to Panfilov Park (left), a large and well manicured lightly forested area. There are several such parks within the city which, from what I have seen so far, is an immaculately clean, modern, uncrowded and attractive place. I have been told subsequently that some outlying districts are a bit grotty!
Right: Another one.
Right: Ascension Cathedral at the western end of the park. It was built between 1904 - 1907. It is made from wood and with no nails (something to do with the crucifixion). It is claimed to be the 2nd tallest wooden church in the world. The tallest being in Romania. It survived an earthquake with minimal damage in 1911 while other buildings in the area were destroyed. 'Divine intervention' it was claimed.
Right: In the same area were some ponies waiting for riders. I was not tempted.
Right: Many pigeons were happily infesting the area and also many of these little electric carts driven enthusiastically around the square by children.
Left: On the west-east street (I'm still confused by north/south orientation), Zhibek Zholy, adjacent to the north, were two notable shopping areas. One is the Green Bazaar which is a large, crowded and chaotic market selling all manner of household goods and things.
Right: I was tempted to buy one of these 'ethnic' hats. It would go down well in my local town I'm sure, but I resisted.
Left: This stall had an impressive array of clocks.
There seemed an inexhaustible range of household goods, and tat, in line after line of stalls. I wondered how they shut them up securely after closing.
Right: Further along the street was a totally different class of shop in a two level arcade called the Arban Shopping Mall. This was very chi-chi and sold luxury goods (designer handbags, shoes, jewellery, electrics, spectacles etc.etc.). Not my scene.
Right: Another quiet street scene. I was impressed by the impeccable maintenance and neatness. Also the demeanour of the locals. They appeared to look respectable and content and I'm sure they were not wealthy. There were some very pretty girls about the place and at no point, so far, have I seen a fat one! All slim and trim, well groomed and attractively dressed. This is in stark contrast to the so common morbidly obese wobbly creatures with ugly tattoos, nose rings, shrapnel studded faces and dyed green/red hair that block the pavements in UK! What to make of that? (yes, they have fast-food outlets here too).
Left: Not sure who this statue is of, or where, or why. Seemed a likeable bloke, whatever he was noted for.Information received from my Special Research Adviser at OMPITA: This is the statue of Viktor Robertovich Tsoi, in Kabanbay Batyr Street. He was a revered Soviet musician and rock-star who died in a car accident in 1990.
You live and learn……!
Right: There were some very pleasant cafés around the place. This is one example. Outside seating was popular but the weather while I was here was 'cool' and sometimes rainy. I was glad I had kept a jersey and waterproof jacket.
Left: Needless to say I managed to find a couple of 'Oirish Bears'. In fact three of them eventually. Almaty is no exception to hosting these! This one, Mad Murphy's, was a most convivial establishment. I was served by a couple of charming Indian girls who were medical students earning some pocket money here. They spoke perfect English which was an exception to the rule outside hotels. Apparently there are many expat students at various universities here.
Right: Inside Mad Murphy's. I had a good lunch of stew and a pint of Smithwicks. It was quiet while I was here….in fact most of the town was quiet.
I am well behind with these reports and lots more to come from Almaty before I even try to catch up on my travels.
Stand-by for more, eventually.
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