ON DOWN THE DANUBE

 20th Jun 2025

A view from the 'prow'

We set sail at some point on the first evening (following afternoon tea) towards Emmersdorf. I believe it was originally intended for us to visit the enormous and famous Melk Abbey (just across the river from Emmersdorf), but this was changed to visit nearby Shallaburg Castle instead. 

Right: Afternoon tea. Another sumptuous spread. This is only a part of what was on offer!

Every evening, before dinner we were given a briefing on the following day's activities (as well as programmes put in our cabins). As mentioned, it was all impeccably managed.

Left: A pic of our route heading east from Pöchlarn (far left) to Emmersdorf (top right), Melk (centre) and Schallaburg (bottom).

Before disembarking we picked a coloured card which designated the group (of about 20) we were to join for the guided tour. Buses were laid on. It was about a 20 minute journey to Schallanburg.

Right: Shallaburg Castle with its immaculate gardens. It was originally built in 1242 and has a complicated and varied history since with multiple ownerships. Confiscated by the Russians in 1945 it is now looked after by the Southern Austrian government.

Left: Part of our 'yellow' group. We are supplied with electronic devices with an earpiece to listen to our tour guide. The tour guides are undeniably most professional and knowledgeable. However I must point out here, and it applies to all the subsequent guides, they never draw breath from talking! (described as' verbal diarrhoea' in less refined circles). As such we are treated to an 'information overload'. As a result it is difficult to remember any particular significant detail. In fact I found it quite wearing! (I unplugged on occasions).

Right: Our lady guide describing a model of the castle. At the back of the gardens is a medieval shooting range, originally for bows and arrows, then firearms, with bullet holes all over the place to prove it (and there must have been some rotten shots).

Left: The well 'refurbished' central courtyard. It features many wooden crests and carvings along the top. One of which, she proudly pointed out, is of a man's naked bottom! The significance is somewhat lost in time, but may have been to ward off evil spirits.

Right: The naked bottom!

Left: The original part of the castle, the 'keep'. Windows facing east (away from the sun) so that the lights from the keep could be seen by outsiders to show that the castle was occupied (or some such reason!).

Right: Displaying the cumbersome and very heavy chain mail, helmet and sword of a mounted knight. If the knight fell off his horse you can imagine the damage and injury occasioned. No remounting I think!

Left: The castle is used as a venue for many exhibitions and events. I believe this display (träumen = dreams) advertises a few.

Anyway, back to the ship for a 'Bavarian' themed lunch accompanied by a jolly Bavarian 'oompah' music band.

We then sailed on down the Wachau Valley. It is a famed wine producing area (white wines of various descriptions). On the lower south-facing hillsides are mile upon mile of vineyards (poor photo right).

Left: More pretty scenery 'mit schloß on top'.

Right: On arrival at the 'touristy' and very 'olde worlde' town of Dürnstein. We had a couple of hours of 'free time' to wander around the town. Tourist 'route maps' were displayed throughout.

Left: The impressive 'baroque' Abbey church in Dürnstein (built circa 15th century).

Right: The town is surrounded by vineyards.

It is one of the most-visited tourist destinations in the Wachau region (many of whom I saw on bicycles). It is a very picturesque town with narrow warren-like streets (left). It also has more wine bars than you can shake a stick at! I visited one to try one of the local brews, in my case the cheapest (of course); Holbener Grüner Vertliner at Euro 2.80 a glass. It was very good, but I am no expert, having dubious taste-buds. There were several much more expensive offerings (all white wine).

Right: I passed a shop with this sign in the window. I couldn't contain my curiosity so went in to investigate. It turns out that the 'rabbit shit' on offer is a popular confection of little chocolate balls. I didn't buy any.

Back on board in time for tea (a talented lady pianist plays throughout), then the daily briefing and another debauched 5 course dinner.

After dinner there was 'entertainment' in the lounge. This classical music recital was provided by a quartet of 'former' members of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra called the Viennese Kudlak Quartet. 

As you can imagine, they were rather good!

I hope to show a video below to give you some idea.

Every night, after all else, we were entertained by the Amadeus Duo, of Stephan (guitar) and Lyuba (keyboards). Again, very talented! Plus late night snacks (as if anyone needed more food!) I don't know what time they packed in because I had gone to bed by then....!

That was just Day 2. So much more to follow......eventually.