Today we were to travel the farthest east on our journey to Ura village (or a collection of villages) in the Ura Valley.to attend the third day of a big four day Festival called the Yakchoe Tshechu.
However, before that, we made a diversion to another pilgrimage site called the 'Burning Lake' on the Tang Chou river. Left: The track, festooned with prayer flags, which led down to the 'lake'. Not a long walk this time thankfully!
As always in Buddhist Bhutan there is a long and complicated 'legend' surrounding this place. I will attempt to summarise: In the 15th century a chap called Pema Lingpa (now known as Bhutan's greatest treasure revealer) had a dream that some of Guru Rinpoche's (yes, him again) 'relics' known as 'terma' were lying at the bottom of this 'lake' which urged him to go and look. He went, dived in and swam into a large cave where a woman with one eye handed him a treasure chest. The locals were cynical of his claims so he invited them to return with him and he would retrieve another terma. He told the assembled crowd "If I am a genuine revealer of treasures, then I may return with the treasure and my lamp still alight. However, if I am a devil, may I drown". He dived in. After a long while people began to think he had drowned. He then suddenly burst out of the water holding a statue, a treasure chest, and the butter lamp in his hands was still alight! He became a revered character as a result. I believe the 'statue' is now a relic kept in a monastery or temple somewhere. He also went on to prophesy that that one day there would be a great centre of learning for women in the Tang Valley, and that has come to pass. It is the Pema Tekchok Chuling Nunnery which was founded in 2000, the place nearby (with absent nuns) we visited a couple of days ago. It is the only Buddhist university for women in existence in the country so far.
So, down to the 'lake' (right) which was somewhat unimpressive. It is just a pool in the river. It is a popular site for tourists and pilgrims. We had no idea of how deep it was but were told that five people have drowned here since 2011 including a French tourist and his Bhutanese guide in 2015. Were they treasure hunting I wonder? We were urged not to fall in.
Left: Looking back on the bridge viewing area.
PS. It is said that 'enlightened beings' can see the temple at the bottom of the 'lake'. Nobody in our group appeared to be 'enlightened'.
The nuns frequently visit this 'sacred' site and have built a small cupboard near the bridge where they store butter lamps as offerings. Right: There are also many 'tsha tshas' lodged in the crevices. I described these little clay conical things in a previous blog.
Left: The sign at the bridge briefly describing the site.
Next on for a rather good breakfast of bacon and eggs in the town of Chamkhar, plus a bit of shopping. I bought a good map.
Then a further couple of hours drive east over a pass or two to Ura (photo at top).This is the home village of our guide Sonam and his parents, and other family members, still live here. It is a very pretty and rustic place with several other similar villages in the area. Right: There are many cows wandering the streets, as is the case in most towns and villages in Bhutan. You had to be careful where you trod!
We were warmly welcomed by Sonam's parents and sister (left) at their house. Other tourists were also present and tea was provided. The reason for 'other tourists' will be become clear.
Before moving on I was kitted out in a traditional 'Gho'. Right: I stand proudly showing it off. My right hand is on my wallet and other valuable documents. There are no inside pockets. The area above the waist band serves as large pouch and place to store all your bits and pieces. It was relatively secure.
Now, the main reason for our visit was to attend the 'Ura Yakchoe Tshechu', or at least an afternoon of it.
This is a major four day Festival attracting all the locals and many tourists. The origins of this shindig centre around another long and complicated myth/legend involving a revered relic, a small statue I think, believed to have been left behind by a mysterious lama centuries ago. The story involves an elderly woman, a visiting and disappearing lama (suspected to be that man Guru Rinpoche yet again, in reincarnation), the relic, its mysterious flight to a secret place, a nine-headed snake and the cure for leprosy in the area. Most confusing. Anyway, the locals gather to honour this relic, believing it offers blessings of health, prosperity and protection from misfortune. I was not sure where this 'relic' is held, but there is a ceremonial unveiling and blessing of it at some point.
There is a good YouTube video which describes the 'legend' and the Festival in detail. The 'link' below the photo might work if you click onto it and put up with some irritating adverts to begin with. Give it a go, but it is rather long at 42 mins.
In effect it is a four day religious and social get-together involving much ceremony, dancing, feasts and plenty of wine. We started off at the temple on the edge of the main square. After a short religious ceremony we were given an interesting talk on the Festival, in very fluent English, by a most erudite 'professor' who had become a Don after studying at Cambridge University and still spends much time in UK.
Then out into the square where there was a good crowd of locals and tourists in sheltered seating around the perimeter. Luckily sheltered as it was drizzling with rain, and the locals had brought picnics.
The dances were performed to the sound of loud horns and drums. They seemed non-stop and featured mostly masked performers wearing very elaborate costumes. I believe they are traditional centuries-old dances telling stories of guardian deities, moral triumphs, spiritual cleansing and the victory over evil spirits. I was most impressed by the two guys blowing their horns. They never stopped for the two hours or so we were here! Quite exhausting I would imagine.
I show below some pics and a couple of videos of dances in progress. It was somewhat difficult for an ignorant tourist to fathom out what they represented.
Right: This character ran into the stands. I learnt that he is the 'masked joker' known as an 'Atsara' wearing a distinctive mask with a large grin. While they engage in slapstick humour their role in Bhutanese culture is deeply profound....the only figures permitted to openly mock religion, societal norms and the crowd itself. They are to remind people not to take themselves too seriously. We could do with a few of them in UK! They also have other social duties at festivals.
Left: He latched onto me and borrowed my cap.He wielded a large wooden phallus and poked it threateningly in my direction. This rather rude object is normally used to bless the crowd....I was reliably informed. I think they might be 'misunderstood' at the local village fête in UK.
What a Festival it must be and we were only there for an afternoon of the four days of it. We left to go back to Sonam's father's house for a good late lunch and departure at 4.15pm. I was rather sorry to have to return my smart Gho.
It was then back west for the long mountainous journey back to Jakar and the Mountain Resort Hotel where we stayed three nights ago.
As a total 'non-sequitur' I post this video which, I think, was sent by Sonam and not part of our trip. It involves more 'willies'. There is no doubt that they play a very important, respected and widely visible role in Bhutanese life (and prolific in souvenir shops). They are talismans not only for fertility, but protection, subduing evil spirits and good fortune. So, coming soon to a fair near you.......
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