SAN JOSE - COSTA RICA

26th - 29th May 2011

Costa Rica

Onwards onwards, TICA bus again, 9 hours, to San Jose, Costa Rica. To be honest I can't remember anything particularly memorable about the journey. No looneys on the bus this time. Left at 0700hrs and arrived at about 1600hrs. Countryside was not particularly hilly but certainly became more green, lush and cultivated when entering Costa Rica. The whole place had a more affluent air about it and the animals seemed fatter. The buildings, roads and infrastructure definitely looked as if more money had been spent on them, probably with a bit of US style and assistance. The currency in CR is colones, but everyone accepts dollars ( 1$ = 500 colones ).
I was warned that Costa Rica would costa lotta. It costa bit more than Nicaragua but costa lot less than USA.

Right. My hotel, the San Tomas. CR does not maintain a large police force and all properties are, more or less, responsible for their own security. This means that all, even slightly prosperous, buildings are protected behind substantial gates, grilles and fences as per the hotel. I was made aware that there are a lot of 'illegals' and bandits from Nicaragua etc. roaming the city but sensible precautions have proved effective. Burglars would find Fort Knox an easier target. They don't seem to like pump-action shotguns here. Probably not good for the 'touristy' image. 

Left: Inside it was remarkably quiet and comfortable. Again, most helpful and cheerful staff. Also delicious food in their restaurant which is just behind the swimming pool ( pic below ). On the left of this pic there is a 'multi-gym'. What !!!!!?? Never saw anyone using it. Maybe they get a government grant for things like that.

As well as only a small police force, CR has no armed forces. It has some agreement with neighbouring countries to protect it. Don't know what it gives in return. It invests the savings in hospitals, of which there are an abundance, and schools. It is a relatively wealthy country. Coffee and bananas are among it's main earners.

Lots of extravagant looking private houses are evident in San Jose, all highly fortified ( see left ). There are also many derelict, once extravagant, buildings going 'for a song' to renovate and several slum areas on the outskirts. Not sure what to make of it all. The city itself is of very average appearance. All mod cons, decent shops, banks, parks etc. but nothing outstanding. Perfectly pleasant, reasonably clean and safe ( I thought ), but uninspiring. Like so many cities in the area it has been plagued by earthquakes. Hull would benefit from an earthquake.

There are pleasant park and plaza areas which featured musical events and 'performing artistes'. There was an excellent youth orchestra playing at the bandstand ( right ) in Parque España....

...as well as a bunch of enthusiastic drummers just down the road. Several clowns and people on unicycles added to the jollity.

 

Left: This was Saturday and lots of people were out playing various board games. The rainy season was just starting so by mid-day things were beginning to look a bit gloomy and by about 3.00pm, every day I was there, it rained.

Right: I was given a beginner's course in 'Go', that apparently well known and highly competitive Chinese/Japanese board game. This is my most enthusiastic and patient instructor, Luis. He is the President of the Costa Rica 'Go' Federation. They compete internationally. I think I may have forgotten some of the rules by now. My introductory course finished just before the rain started.

Left: The only building of note that I was shown was the Theatre. Actually it was rather impressive. Built between 1890-97 it features very grand sculptures and decoration. Lots of marble, mahogany and elaborate murals. It has survived a few earthquakes and mucho money is obviously spent on it to keep it in pristine condition. 

Right: The auditorim, including a plush Presidential box, was well up to, if not better, than similar London establishments. I don't know what the performances therein are like, but the acoustics were fantastic.

It has a smart bar too.

Left: Main shopping street. The most eccentric feature of San Jose was the almost complete lack of street signs. The map showed streets, east-west, and avenues, north-south, as numbers ( no names ) but there were no signs. Navigation was done by guesswork and asking a local. Even the locals referred to places as 'next to somewhere else'. Bonkers. Maybe it's to confuse the enemy, whoever that may be. Certainly confused me.

Tourism features highly in this country. Americans swarm to the place for beach and 'adventure' holidays. Lots of tours advertise visiting volcanos, hiking, biking, white-water rafting and doing 'zip' wires etc. And bird watching. No shooting. Certainly the Pacific beaches seem pleasant and the countryside is mountainous and jungly and full of interesting flora and fauna. They mention 'eco-tourism' a lot. I don't know what this is. Big game hunting maybe?

Left: The Plaza de Las Artes.

Right: Plaza de La Culture. There is a rather boring museum of local art and some 'ethnic' artefacts underneath.
I mention the names of these plazas but, due to no signs telling you what they are, I may be completely wrong. Does it matter?

Left: Another Spanish invader with a whopping sword. One of the original eco-tourists perhaps.











So Costa Rica was fine. As someone I met in the great Welsh Ocelot pub in Antigua pointed out, Costa Rica is Guatemala 'lite'. A great place for a beach holiday, playing 'Go' and doing some 'eco-tourism'.
Lots of walking done around town and my shoes gave out at last. Replacements were easy to find, good quality and much cheaper than UK.
Bags packed, it was back onto the TICA bus and off to Panama. I think I made a bit of a time and distance blunder a few months ago because I have to ( well, I don't have to but I want to because I've paid for it! ) catch a ship which leaves Panama on 24th June. Can't be delayed. Further onward travel south from Panama will, therefore, be rather limited.
Onwards onwards..............
PS. Why is it in Latin America that wherever you are and at all times of day and night there are numerous people coming up to you saying 'Taxi, taxi, youwantaxi'. It's a form of standard greeting, like in Bangkok 'Youwan massar'. It is most irritating. That is until you actually need a taxi, urgently. Then they are nowhere to be seen!