DOWN THE BALKANS - TO LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA

1st -  3rd May 2019

Ljubljana Castle overlooking the rainy Market Square.

A trip, mostly by rail, down the Balkan States, or some of them on the Adriatic coast, seemed a good idea seeing as how I've never been to that part of the world before. I was encouraged by a friend who has a house in Montenegro and waxes lyrical about the place. So that was to be my ultimate destination. 

Initially from London, St Pancras, Eurostar (dep. 0816hrs) to Brussels (Midi). I was again using an Interrail Pass (cost £320 for 7 days anywhere travel in a month) which, at the very least, reduced the Eurostar fare from £105 to £35 (a premium charged here). Saved £70 already. Then on the same day via Frankfurt to Munich on the splendid ICE trains at no extra cost. Best to make max distance in a day to get value from the Pass. I've been to Munich station previously for a night stop-over en-route Istanbul and knew the Eden Wolff Hotel, just across the road from the Hauptbahnhof. Excellent place and not too expensive plus good restaurant.  Arrived 1910hrs.

Left: Eine Fräulein mit der local togs im Restaurant. Gut essen und freundlicher service.

On the next morning via a Salzburg lunch stop to Ljubljana (Capital of Slovenia). The train from Salzburg had those charming old-fashioned and comfortable compartments, plus power points for computers, which I much prefer. There was only one other occupant, who was Slovenian, and who gave me much useful advice. She recommended a place to stay; the Celicia Hostel (right). 

It is near the station and I took her up on it. It is a converted prison.

Right: The 'cells' are imaginatively designed with bars on the door and small window. Made me feel quite at home!

Below: Two, surprisingly comfortable, bunk beds were up a ladder near the ceiling. Very compact. The rails on the side of the bed only came up quarter length from the foot end (reading light at the head) and it would be quite possible to roll over accidentally in the night and fall about 8 feet onto the ladder or floor below. I reckoned they should have fitted safety belts. Anyway, I survived here unscathed for two nights.

I was surprised to find that the city is so covered in graffiti. Even old and prestigious buildings have ugly spray painted political slogans on the walls. I asked about this and was told it was during the Commie era when the people had no effective 'voice', this was the only way in which they could vent their frustration and feelings. For some reason, after decades, most has still not been removed. I later discovered that this was also the case in Croatia.

Right and below: Some of the graffiti is upgraded to art form.

...such as some of the buildings near my 'prison' which also included curious 'objets d'art' and 'mobiles' attached to the wall. 

Left: .....and a curious sculpture on the building opposite my cell.

The city centre is very lively with many open air bars and restaurants (canopies up and heaters on because, for most of my visit, it was, after the first sunny day, damp/drizzling/raining)  and, for some reason, an extraordinary amount of up-market clothes shops. There is a large and vibrant lunch-time market in the Market Square. I took an interest in this guy (right) who was flogging 'whey' in various forms and flavours. No room in my suitcase for that but lots of freebie tasters on offer.

Left: Plus the usual influx of our camera-weilding friends from the Land of the Rising Sun.











The city is dominated by the castle, Ljubljanski Grad, on the hill to the north. Right: There is a funicular to take you up to it. There are also steps, but..........it was raining.

The castle has a long and interesting history which, if you are interested, I'm sure is explained in detail on Wikipedia or somesuch.












The castle houses several museums, displays and observation towers. Left: A view from the wall down over the Market Square to the south.

Right: And the view from a tower over the castle square. Unfortunately some of the better viewing points on the roof were chained off due to the wet weather.

Left: The cells in the dungeon. In one of them a video was showing an account of a prioner's life.

Outside one of these cells is a photo, taken in 1917, of WW1 Italian prisoners held in the castle. The place was used as a prison for various periods. What always gives me cause to reflect about these old group photos is that the many young and fit people in them have one thing in common. They are now all dead. 

Same could be said for some of the group photos I am in!

Left: Amongst much else there is a good restaurant in the castle square. I had a light lunch there. Delicious.

I believe they do 're-enactments' of some sort in the square with actors dressed in period costume. I saw a couple of these in robes, wigs and funny hats but they were getting wet and looked somewhat bedraggled, so I suspect 'rain stopped play'. Or they may just have been part of a drunken British 'stag party'.

Right: A rather original waste bin at the bottom of the funicular. Can't think that kangaroos are indigenous to Slovenia.....but I may be wrong.


Left: Looking back up at the castle.

Right: Back below in the centre is this statue of France Prešeren, 1800 - 1849 (with mandatory pigeon on his head and a goblin on top about to swat it). He is Slovenia's most famous poet and composed their National Anthem amongst much else. They celebrate Prešeren Day on the 8th February each year, the day of his death. Is that a compliment?

Don't tell me that this journal is not educational.

Left: Another statue, without pigeon which is the only reason I found it interesting. Who is 'Vodnik'? I really couldn't be bothered to find out. Painter? Gymnast? Astronaut? Who cares.

The river Ljubljana flows through the centre of the city. The name Ljubljana comes from the Slovenly word for 'flood' which apparently the city was prone to before they dug a new canal to relieve the situation. Ouside the city it flows underground for several lengths of it's course. It actually looks more like a canal. I was told all this by the driver of the river boat I took a trip on (right). I was his only passenger! I had his full attention for over an hour and he was actually a jolly fine chap and filled me with lots of useful information.

There are several bridges over the river. This one (left) is a marvel of 20th century architecture

 and is called the 'Triple Bridge'. It was opened in 1932. The centre span is for road traffic and one either side for pedestrians.

BTW, the word for 'bridge' in this part of the world is 'most'. It explains the name of the town in Bosnia Herzegovenia famous for it's bridge; Mostar.

Another just downstream is the Dragon Bridge, completed in 1901. This road bridge has two dragons on plinths at each end. I forget the origin of the dragon, but legend has it that the dragon will wag it's tail when a virgin crosses the bridge. I'm not sure if anyone has witnessed this.

There is also the Butchers' Bridge, opened in 2010. This is a pedestrian bridge with transparent walkways on each side. Very modern; probably paid for with EU (ie. our) money. According to my boat driver this is also known as the Perverts' Bridge for a reason that becomes apparent as you sail under it and (could) look up at 'ladies in skirts'. Is this what they call 'Upskirting', or is that a town in Sweden. 'Have a butcher's' (butcher's hook - look) is a well known Cockney (rhyming slang) expression anyway.

Right: Another statue at the end, I think, of the Butchers' Bridge. I hope you can make more sense of it than me. I'm open to suggestions.

In all I found Ljubljana a very pleasant and amenable city and those locals I met were charming and hospitable. There are lots of good restaurants and bars and prices seemed reasonable. A worthwhile brief visit. The Celica Prison accommodation amused me but might not those who prefer boring 5 star service.

Off next to Split (Croatia) via Zagreb. Stand-by for more illuminating cultural highlights.