TO THE BEACH. MONTENEGRO

10th - 12th May 2019

The long beach on Slovenska Obala, Budva. 

I was dropped off in Budva, a seaside resort on the coast about half-way down the country dubbed the 'Poster Child' of Montenegrin tourism, or the 'Budva Riviera'. It is popular with the Russian/Ukrainian equivalent of the package tour Brits who flock to Torremolinos or Magaluf. Say no more, but fortunately it was not yet high-season.

This was not before we took a short detour south to see the renowned 'private' resort of Sveti Stefan (Sweaty Stephen?). This was a fortress island connected to the mainland by a causeway and is now converted to an exclusive 'all inclusive' collection of holiday apartments, restaurants and other facilities. It caters for the Very Rich and unless you are a resident guest there is no access across the causeway.

Its the sort of place where famous wealthy people get married. Novak Djokovic got hitched here recently. I don't think it would appeal to me; not that I could afford it.

Right: To give you a feel for the topography around here. Budva is just to the left of the little island and Sveti Stefan to the right of it.


After being dropped off I hadn't a clue where to go so found, conveniently nearby, a small tourist info office. They pointed me in the direction of a nearby hotel, The Grbalij. It was not in the touristy area and was just perfect. Comfortable with all mod cons and only 25 Euros pn.

Budva is not a big town and everywhere is easily walkable. It consists of a long beach area plus promenade with lots of restaurants, bars and cafés, a marina and another old 'walled city' at the south-western end. The rest is modern with some upmarket shops, supermarkets and all the usual facilities including a smart bus station conveniently near to my hotel. Several large, expensive, ostentatious (and slightly tasteless) apartment blocks and hotels are, or are being built, at the north-eastern end. The place is obviously expanding to satisfy an increasing tourist market.


Left: The old 'walled city', Stari Grad, at the south-west end is relatively small and on the same lines as all the other old 'walled cities' I have visited recently ie. lots of little alleyways plus bars, shops and restaurants.










The central point of this old city, previously a defensive fortress, is The Citadel. I got in fairly near to closing time and it offers some good views of the surrounding area. Right: Looking north-east over the town.









Left: A little beach on the north side.

Right: Stage and small amphitheatre below. Not sure what goes on there, but nothing compared to the 'festival site' at the other end of the main beach which, I was informed, has hosted some big 'pop concerts' featuring famous artistes such as Rod Stewart and many other 'bands' of which everyone but me has heard, during the three day 'Sea Dance Festival' in July. Best avoided perhaps.

Left: A view over the beaches to the north-east.

Before leaving The Citadel I came upon this little gathering in a courtyard. It was some form of 'traditional' music event with actors in strange costumes. I wandered in and was offered a glass of champagne! Soon after I was told it was a 'private' event and could I please leave. Well, how was I to know? But I managed to drink the champagne. The Citadel gates had been locked to prevent other 'gate-crashers', so a bit of a delay before they could chuck me out. 

Left: An evening view towards the island to the east called Ostrovo Sveti Nicola! She must have been a friend of Sveti Stefan.












Right: One of the little squares inside the walled city.

Left: And a rather good 'English Pub' called The Silver (with dart board). I didn't see an Oirish one, but there probably was somewhere.

Right: Just outside the wall was this large bell. I didn't discover its significance or where it came from. Can't think anyone just left it there by mistake. "Sorry Sir, your bells too big to be allowed in. Collect on leaving".

Also just against the walls was a selection of restaurants, one of which was a Chinese, the Hong Kong. I had supper there. It was rather good.

The Marina (left) was nearby. Lots of boaty things in there..........











,,,,,,,,and some of them quite luxurious. Possibly a visiting Oligarch.

Left: Sunbathers on the long Slovenska Obala beach. I chose not to remove my jacket or shoes.

There was a slightly 'Soviet' attitude displayed at places like the Post Office where I went to post some cards (yes, I still do that). The staff were very dour, unhelpful and monosyllabic. Incidentally, I was told that some cards which I posted from Colombia back in November last year, and on which I had given up all hope of arriving, apparently turned up this week. It had only taken them just over 6 months to arrive! I must have put on 3rd Class stamps. I was sure they had just peeled the stamps off and re-sold them. Moral of the story: never give up hope.

I used the tourist info office near my hotel to try to find out some train and bus times. The lady behind the counter was another apparachnik with a rather surly disposition and had strange flaccid lips. It looked as if something had gone badly wrong with her 'lip-enhancement' treatment. I had a telephone number ready to ring and handed her my phone. She said she couldn't use it for 'hygiene and health risk reasons'. All the while she puffed away at a rancid smelling roll-up cigarette! "Priorities, my dear", I thought to myself.

Next, on further south down the coast, by bus, to the town of Bar