RETURN TO TAIPEI AND ONWARDS

 21st Dec 2023 - 2nd Jan 2024

Taipei 101 Tower by night

On north by 'fast' train up the east coast, and return to Taipei. It was a 2hr 29min journey (spot on time as always). I had decided to give the city of Keelung, on the northern coast, a miss. I suspected it did not have a lot to offer that I had not already experienced, and the weather up this end of the island was still rather overcast, damp and coldish. The rail journey passed along and through similar forested mountainous and hilly scenery as previous, including some rather dull looking 'industrial' towns. One coastal area was, interestingly, called 'Honeymoon Bay'. My guide book informed me that there was 'good surfing' along this north-east coast, but that was not on my agenda! After some slow going with numerous suburban stops we reached the Main Station in Taipei (the enormous hi-tech maze previously described) at 2.47pm and I checked into another 'relatively' cheap hotel a bit of a walk north-east of the Station.

Left: After much searching, I found another 'Oirish Bear' within walking distance of the hotel. It was a fairly decent, if unremarkable, pub but served good western food and, of course, Guinness. As I think I have mentioned, decent bars are difficult to find in this country. Being the 21st December I celebrated  'Sahagun Day' here (I'll let you work that out).

I had read that there is an interesting area surrounding what is called The Red House. I went to the Red House which was near the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial compound. It was the 'wrong' Red House. This one was a two storey museum dedicated to the 19th century production of camphor and opium. It was not very interesting. The 'correct' Red House (right) was to the east of the city centre near the river (Tamsui) and the Beimen Metro station. 

This attractive octagonal red-brick building was built by the Japanese over 100 years ago and was the hub of the city's shopping centre. It is now still surrounded by many shops, stalls and cafés. Inside there is an theatre upstairs, and downstairs an indoor market (left). 

It sells all sorts of knick-knacks amongst some expensive jewellery and clothes stalls.

Right: I saw these interesting 'squashed' whisky and wine bottles which served as dishes and, I thought, rather attractive. I might have bought one if a) I wasn't luggage limited and b) They weren't so expensive! I bought a T-shirt instead.

Left: Another photo of passengers inside a Metro train. I reckon about 80% of Taiwanese still wear the dreaded face-masks. As explained by the barman in Hualien, it is a feature of 'Herd Mentality'. It is also rare to see anyone not glued to their smart-phones! I never did find out what they were all looking at. I noticed several 'video games' being played. 

That evening I found another watering-hole, a 'whisky bar' called The Buckskin'  which was almost next door to my hotel. None of these bars appear to open before about 8.30pm. It was quite pleasant. I enjoyed a glass of Whiskey Highball, otherwise known, in UK, simply as Whisky and Soda, and a meal of calamari salad.

Having spent three weeks circumnavigating Taiwan I decided to have a 'holiday within a holiday' and go to my old stomping ground in Vietnam for Christmas and New Year. I know from experience that the Vietnamese are somewhat at the other end of the spectrum of 'entertainment' to the Taiwanese. They enjoy a good party and certainly Christmas (the origin and traditions of which they know little but who cares) and New Year provide an excellent opportunity for a very joyous blow-out. 

I managed to get a suitable competitively priced return flight with Vietjet Airlines and set off on the evening of the 23rd to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). Finding the platform for the 'express' MRT train to the airport involved another confusing navigation through the Disorientating Maze at the Main Station. I made it eventually. 

Left: The gleaming interior of Terminal 1 at Taipei International Airport. I had arrived far too early, as is my wont, was efficiently passed through 'check-in' and 'security' with no faffing about as at UK airports (no nonsense with liquids etc). My cabin bag was a bit 'overweight' but I was told they would overlook that. I had time to make use of the 'CIP' Lounge in departures. Great value and as much as you could eat and drink for £24 equivalent. I definitely got my money's worth!

Right: The unavoidable..............!

I have covered Vietnam, and Saigon in particular, in great detail in previous blogs (this time last year is one example) so will not go over it all again. Suffice to say that it lived up to my expectations. I attach below some photos of this visit and of course I did lots of other (respectable I hasten to add) things not mentioned here. The first difference you notice on arrival here is the weather. Taiwan was cool and often drizzly and rainy. In the South of Vietnam (ie. Saigon) it is very warm; between 30º- 35ºc, with the occasional short-lived and heavy downpour. 

Below: The Cuban band and jolly singers on the 9th Floor terrace bar at the Caravelle Hotel on Christmas Eve. 

Left: A pretty Vietnamese girl, typical of the nation. I have yet to see a fat one and they dress so attractively!

The 'Western' tourists are often notably fat, covered in tattoos and, if male, scruffily unshaven. I have photo examples but decided not to publish them to save embarrassing anyone accidentally recognising themselves on this blog!

Right: Outside the enormous Ben Thanh market. Was she 'pouting' at me?

Left: The Ho Chi Minh statue outside the City Hall.

A couple here are wearing face-masks. They were the exception to the rule. Unlike Taiwan very few (mainly only tourists) wore them on the streets or inside. They do wear them riding their 'motos' (scooters), but they always have done and this was/is a perceived protection against pollution, not a virus!

Again, another dissimilarity between here and Taiwan is the abundance of cafés, bars and restaurants catering for all tastes of drink and different national cuisines. These hostelries are open all hours and seemingly on every available terrace, roof-top, courtyard and street. Outdoor eating at street restaurants is popular. You never see that in Taiwan. I suppose the warm weather plays a part. The Vietnamese are a much more 'hedonistic' people than the rather 'staid' Taiwanese; very outgoing and more 'risqué'. You would never experience walking down a street in Taiwan and receive that well known Vietnamese greeting "Yoo wan Massaa"! from young ladies outside the many establishments offering restorative relaxation.

Right: Tables prepared for the street-side  evening meals which start being served at about 6.00pm and go on long after I have gone to bed!

Left: They are always packed. The food at these is of a wide Vietnamese variety and both delicious and cheap. 

Right: People flock into the city centre around Christmas and New Year's Eve. Loud 'pop concerts' play with much fire and smoke on Le Loi Boulevard, the main drag through town. The crowds are often noisy but always well behaved. I have yet to witness any bad or 'anti-social' behaviour, let alone violence, in this city. There are police around and all very good natured.

Left: One of many balloon sellers on New Year's Eve.

There was a very loud 'live' pop concert ongoing at the time which featured long haired youths shouting into microphones, tuneless twanging guitars and much banging of drums which, I am informed, is 'heavy metal' music (music?!) or some-such. What a racket!

Right: A happy couple celebrating.

Left: There were several of these 'fire-breathers'. More than last year. It must leave a horrid taste in their mouths and, I would have thought, a certain amount of scorched clothing and eyebrows!

Right: 'Living' statues. I didn't notice any of these last year. It must be catching on.

Left: As per last year I got up to a vantage point on the roof terrace of the Rex Hotel for a good view of the fireworks. This year I lodged myself at a prime position at the edge (just by the 'R' of Rex Hotel in photo) but found myself surrounded by a group of rather loud and 'merry' Glaswegian tourists. You can't escape!

Right: The assembled crowd below on Nguyen Hué Avenue.

Below: The fireworks were launched from near the river at the bottom of Nguyen Hué. As with last year the display went on for about 25 minutes. Last year (and I have the video on a previous blog) the display was truly magnificent. This year, most unfortunately, there must have been a breeze which blew all the smoke directly in front of the fireworks. As such all you saw for the most part was clouds of coloured smoke and heard loud whizzes and bangs. It must have much irritated the organisers to spend so much money, time and effort to have their display (from our side anyway) rather ruined.

Many wealthy Vietnamese groups had booked expensive tables on the rooftop terrace and had enjoyed a sumptuous meal before the display. Once the display was over (and this happened last year so I was poised!) most of the diners left, leaving behind half full bottles of rather good wine. The waiters were just going to throw them away. Well, this was too much to resist! I think the 'merry' Glaswegians also made the most of it.

I had been staying at a marvellous little hotel. You might be interested if you ever go to Saigon. It is called the Thiên Hai Hotel at 220 Ly Thu Trong Street and I have stayed here before. I was greeted on arrival like a long lost friend! It is perfectly placed in the centre of all the tourist areas in and around District 1, most a maximum of 10 minutes walk away. It has very clean and comfortable rooms with good air-con, wide-screen TV, good Wi-Fi, excellent bathroom, coffee-making facilities (with ample supplies of tea and coffee etc.), room cleaned daily, an efficient 'same day' laundry service and a simple buffet breakfast. There is a 24hr 'Family Mart' (mini super-market) next door which is extremely useful. I was here for 10 nights and the total cost, including 3 laundries, was £195 (£19.50 pn). What a bargain! I can't think why people want to spend hundreds of pounds per night at a 'top class/price' hotel (of which there are several in the city) when, frankly, you only need a comfortable place to sleep and wash in and be conveniently located.

Another point of note in this city (and others in Vietnam) is the 'Grab' taxi service (an App on your phone). You can order, on line, a 'Grab' moto (scooter) taxi and they are remarkably cheap and turn up very quickly. I had to visit an old friend in a District which was about 5 miles away. I used the scooter taxi and the journey was quicker than by car of course (dodging the traffic), and it cost about £2! Brilliant.

That is a brief outline of my holiday in Saigon and surrounding area. I returned to Taiwan on a flight which, rather inconveniently, left Ho Chi Minh at 1.00am on the 2nd Jan. I will report back from there following my final few days in this part of the world.