VORRÜCKEN ZU BERLIN (PART 1)

31st Mar 2024

Looking west down 'Unter Den Linden'. Berlin Cathedral on right. Brandenburg Gate at far end before the Tiergarten. Photo taken from the viewing gallery on the Fernsenturm (Radio Tower).

 

Left: The impressive entry hall to Prague main railway station.

We all gathered here before the ongoing train trip to Berlin. Right: a selection of the assembled rabble on the platform.

The statue on the left is quite interesting.....

Left: It is of (Sir) Nicholas Winton who rescued hundreds of Jewish children from Nazi occupation in Prague in 1939 and somehow got them to Britain, on the same lines as Oskar Schindler presumably. I think a recent film has been made of his exploits. 

The 10.28am ICE train left on time and I had a comfortable seat to myself. We had been told to look out for the 'impressive scenery' on approaching Dresden. Maybe it was impressive but sadly I missed it because I had gone to sleep.

On arrival at Berlin Hbf we were taken by bus to our hotel, the Park Inn on Alexanderplatz. It is a very smart and comfortable hotel (with a couple of 'provisos'). Alexanderplatz was, until 1989, in Soviet East Berlin.

I last visited Berlin in 1987, before the wall came down. In those days there were the British, French and US 'sectors' in West Berlin and across the 'Wall' the dour Soviet part in the East which was only memorable for its Opera House and a couple of restaurants (exclusive for Western visitors). As a military person you could visit these provided you had 'clearance' and wore smart 'dress' uniform. Access to the East was gained via Checkpoint Charlie (more about that later). The British sector was rather fun I seem to remember, with good military accommodation, a smart Officers' Club, plenty of excellent bars and restaurants plus some rather 'raunchy' nightclubs. I think each 'sector' tried to outdo the others. It has now changed out of all recognition and is all one modern city with smart shops, department stores, restaurants and many museums and galleries. 

After settling in we were taken on a walking tour by our 'fuhrer' John down the wide historic street 'Unter Den Linden'. Right: Close to Alexanderplatz is the Rotes Rathaus (Red City Hall).

Then on down the street passing the domed Berlin Cathedral (left), which was only completed in 1905 (c/o Emperor Wilhelm 11) following the rebuilding of a previous more modest church. It was to be Berlin's answer to Saint Peter's in Rome. It was then badly damaged in WW2 and only fully restored in 1975....in a 'simplified' form, I read. The building on the left is the Altes museum. We didn't go into either.

At some point we crossed over the River Spree which runs through the city. There are popular river cruises on this (right).

Next, on the south side, is what was once the Royal Palace. It too was badly bomb damaged in WW2 (all of this area was East Berlin). It was reconstructed and is now the Humboldt Forum (left). It used to have a big dome on top before reconstruction. The Humboldt brothers, Wilhelm and Alexander, were admired 19th century polymaths ie. academics, diplomats, philosophers, authors, scientists, explorers, diplomats, ballroom dancers and any other title you could bestow on them. It is now a museum of art and culture.

Right: Next door is a prestigious Humboldt University building (Technical Uni?). On the floor of the square in front is a window which you can look down through onto empty bookcases. 

Left: The transparent 'paving stone' and the 'Empty Library'. This represents an empty library after the ceremonial 'burning of books' by the Nazis in the 1930s. What books? Not Harry Potter or Enid Blyton I presume?

Right: Opposite is another grand University building. I think this is the main Humboldt one (I had become confused). Apparently many famous people like Karl Marx, Friedrich Engles and Albert Einstein studied and probably drank heavily here.

We passed by the Russian embassy which was heavily guarded due to possible aggro following the Ukraine invasion. 

Left: Nearby in a small park is a statue of Marx and Engels. A once popular commie comedy double act. Not a patch on Morecambe and Wise.

Right: Somewhere en route is this statue of Frederick the Great (Alte Fritz to the locals). Military hero 1740 - 1786. He is riding Conde, his favourite horse. Grand National winner 1787.

Left: .....and this elegant building, but for the life of me I can't remember what it is.

Ahaa! Just been informed by the ever vigilant OMPITA research dept. that this is the Berlin State Opera House. 

It was apparent that due to being Easter Weekend nearly all the shops, especially supermarkets, were closed. Irritating, as I wanted to buy some 'supplies' to avoid paying extortionate bar prices at the hotel.

Then back to the Hotel on Alexanderplatz by Metro (not free as in Prague!) in time for supper; another 'semi-communal' one as we sat at small tables with 'random' others in our group......hmmmm😟.

PS. As I discovered later that night (or early morning) when I woke up wanting to go for a pee, the bedroom was dangerous. There was a long sharp metal support holding the bedside light hanging over the edge of the bed. In the dark, as is regrettably common in hotels, it was difficult to find the light switch (Why can't they illuminate them, as I've mentioned before?). While thrashing around trying to find it I stuck my head up and received a severe and painful blow to the head from the metal light support. Dazed, but not too much blood fortunately.

That's enough for one day.....onwards around town tomorrow.