CYPRUS REVISITED 2

19th - 23rd Jun 2024

That evening I got a phone call from the lady at Dhekelia who, true to her word, had found someone to 'guide me' around the base. I was to meet him (the guide) tomorrow (Thursday 20th) at the entrance at 10.00am. So I did.

Left: An aerial shot of part of the base. Not my photo of course, but plenty of photos of the base are available 'on-line'! The Officers' Mess is circled, bottom right.

After showing several forms of ID I was issued with a temporary 'pass' and introduced to my Cypriot guide, called Paris. I was warned that under no circumstances was I to take any photos, and Paris "is under strict instructions to enforce this". I couldn't think what they could possibly be hiding on the base! Paris was a decent enough chap who spoke good English and, I think, worked there as a civilian mechanic or engineer. We got into his car and I asked if we could go first to the Officers' Mess, a place of great social importance in my days there.

Left: The Officers' Mess (pic taken very surreptitiously). I was being watched by Paris so didn't want to upset him by taking these 'illegal' photos! As a result you will mostly just have to put up with my writing.

My memories of the base were somewhat limited. We had to go into the Mess by the kitchens for some reason. The only people I saw in there were a lady member of the staff in the dining room and another lady outside who, I think, was a visiting medic of some sort. I hardly recognised the place as I think it had undergone several 'modifications' and 'extensions' (probably necessary due to the damage we drunkenly caused!). I couldn't even remember where my old room was. There is now a small swimming pool which wasn't there in my day. Beside this was a large notice which displayed all the many rules and regulations which you had to abide by....I think swimming was allowed, just, on sufferance. Another example of utterly unnecessary and obtrusive modern day 'elf 'n safety'. 

We visited the Station Headquarters building. It had a Union Flag flying proudly outside. Up a staircase to the offices level. This staircase had a notice which read "this stairway may be used in either direction"! What? Why should it not be?! Anyway there was a line of about 10 offices including that of the Base Commander, his 2 i/c, Adjutant, Admin Officer, Station WO1 and several others. Not a single one was occupied by a military person. Indeed the only people there, in one office, were a couple of civilian contractors mending a computer and a retired chap who was involved in some 'welfare' capacity. This was 10.15am on a weekday. Where were they all? Apparently the Base Commander was on leave. Maybe the rest were 'working from home'?

We then toured the base passing places I vaguely remembered including the schools, hospital, Sergeant's Mess, the NAAFI building (shop now named something differently), the transport garages etc. It seemed entirely deserted. I don't remember seeing any form of human life; let alone soldiers in uniform. It was like the Marie Celeste!

In my day this base would be humming mid-week (during the morning anyway). The large site of the old married quarters had been demolished. Apparently it was cheaper to build new ones than maintain the old. There were sizeable areas of these new houses and, again, I saw no activity. I found this extraordinary. I can't think what has happened. Perhaps that is why photos are strictly forbidden. Don't let the 'enemy' know the place has been abandoned! Actually, on the way out I did see one soldier, in combat uniform, manning one of the exit barriers. We had to leave the base at 11.00am because after this the gates were then all shut and locked!

Next I expressed an interest to go to Kingsfield Airfield, about a couple of miles outside the base. I used to go gliding there. No gliding there now, just a Sport Parachute Club. The parachute club used to be in nearby Pergamos Camp, but that has all gone. Parachuting was indeed taking place and I watched a few dropping out of the plane. I didn't get the chance to meet the guy in charge (he was busy directing operations from a rooftop). The six or seven parachutists (all stubblies) came from where, or did what, I gathered not. The only person I had a pleasant chat with was a sociable lady (daughter of a Brit but resident in Cyprus) who ran the café.

This had been a somewhat depressing and boring visit! I suspect the place is now just a 'dormitory' for visiting personnel.....?? I am none the wiser because I never met any military person with whom to discuss the situation.

Then back to Larnaca for a pleasant lunch on the sea-front. South of Larnaca there are several vast salt lakes. Left: A poor photo of one of them. They are solid white with salt and very extensive on both sides of the road. I'm not sure what geological feature causes the extreme saltiness in them.

Right: Back at the hotel. This lady, Olga, is a delightful Ukrainian and works in the bar and restaurant. She is most attractive and was very helpful and amusing company! Thank you Olga (and all the staff, who were all most efficient and attentive).

The next morning was spent on a local beach (Faros Beach) (left) which was 15 minutes walk from the hotel. At least it was uncrowded and there was a small café/bar. Not much to do other than paddle in the sea and sunbathe.

Right: The rules of the beach. No dogs? Why only dogs not allowed? Are all other animals permitted? I know Cyprus has a large cat population and, personally, I prefer the company of dogs to cats. Could I bring my pet sheep, or camel......?

Left: Talking of camels, I had noticed a sign on the way from Larnaca pointing to a 'Camel Park'. I decided to investigate.

It was a 20 minute drive to the village of Mazotos with the Camel Park on the edge. It was Euro 7 to enter. I think camels are the most ugly, smelly, unappealing and anti-social creatures. Right: The ones in this picture are the 'one hump' variety ie. dromedaries from the Middle East area.

They have strange, dangerous and disgusting habits. I read this:

'Camels use their teeth to bite, lift and throw their enemies, their feet to kick, paw or trample over, their whole body to knock over, press and squeeze, and their spit or regurgitated food to cover their perceived adversaries'. 

They are mainly herbivores but if hungry (which is most of the time) they will eat anything, including meat and bones (apparently). The max range of camel spit has been recorded at 40 yards, and it smells revolting. Fortunately I was not spat at.

Left: These brutes followed visitors walking around outside their compound. We had been offered the opportunity to buy 'food' to feed them. I certainly didn't. Also there was the opportunity to pay to have a ride on them. Not me! They stuck their ugly snouts over the fence revealing enormous dirty protruding fangs in the hope that they would be given something to eat. I dread to think what some people fed them.

It was in other parts a zoo featuring many different animals and all well maintained in spacious compounds. Right: A very small pony.

Left: A cage inhabited by lemurs. You could go inside to feed them.

Right: ....and ostriches. Many other animals were in residence.

Left: A dromedary giving a ride to a somewhat stoutly built lady. 

Right: Another little 'camel train' in action. I couldn't see the point.

Left: There were a couple of the two-humped variety kept separately in their own compound. These are 'bactrian' camels, from Asia. I have never before seen such shaggy, moth-eaten, ugly creatures. Grooming? They need stripping down and re-upholstering!

This park also had cafés, a restaurant and bar, a swimming pool, amusement arcades, souvenir shop, museum and other facilities. It was actually quite a jolly place, despite the camels. Right: a 'berber' tent. 

That evening I handed back my car to the excellent 'hire car' company in Larnaca (as mentioned in the previous blog) and bus back. The remainder of this short trip was spent in and around the hotel. Nothing much else to report except that I met a charming and interesting guest; an Israeli policeman. He gave me some fascinating insights into the state of affairs in that part of the world. I won't bore you with them here, suffice to say that his experience and views did not match what we have been told by the UK Government and media.

The journey back to UK (from Larnaca to Gatwick) with EasyJet was equally as tedious, frustrating and irritating as the trip out, described at the beginning. It was also delayed. We arrived back at LGW just before midnight on the 23rd and I had to wait until 5.15am for a train home.

Left: Standing in a long queue on the tarmac at Larnaca for a long time before boarding the aircraft. 

PS. (Right) The hotel I stayed at had, almost uniquely, bedside light switches which were illuminated! It certainly makes getting up in the dark a less hazardous task. I wish more hotels did this.

So that was my Cyprus Revisit. I'm glad I did it, but doubt I will be going back for a holiday!