BACK THE WAY WE CAME - TOWARDS BRATISLAVA

 23rd - 24th Jun 2025

Life, of sorts, on the sun-deck.

We were still tethered to the quayside on the morning of the 23rd, and had free time to wander Budapest at our leisure (back on board by 1.15pm). It was suggested we might like to visit the 'Shoes' and the large covered market down town.

Left: The Shoes on the Danube Bank (Hungarian: Cipők a Duna-parton) is a memorial erected on 16 April 2005, in Budapest, Hungary (near the Parliament Building). Conceived by film director Can Togay, he created it on the east bank of the Danube River with sculptor Gyula Pauer [hu] to honour the (many thousand) Jews who were massacred by fascist antisemitic Hungarian militia belonging to the Arrow Cross Party in Budapest during the Second World War. They were ordered to take off their shoes (shoes were valuable and could be stolen and resold by the militia after the massacre), and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The memorial (60 pairs of metal shoes) represents their shoes left behind on the bank.

Right: A small part of the enormous (Central) Rákóczi Market on the Pest side of the river. It sells almost anything that you can carry!

I got back to the ship at exactly 1.15pm. Apparently a call had been put out that I was missing! (we had to leave our cabin keys at reception so they knew who was out). Anyway, panic over. I'm not sure what they do if someone does go 'AWOL'!

We set sail sometime after lunch back westwards up the river. Left: A quaint little paddle-boat on passing the Parliament Building.

Right: Another ship coming towards us amongst what was very scenic countryside and pretty riverside villages.

After tea, at 4.45pm we were treated to an 'Apfelstrudel cooking display' by the head chef and his team. It was in the lounge so I stayed, not paying much attention, but helped myself to the end product.

Left: We passed the ruined Visegrád Citadel (at the top) on the northern bank. This was, since the Mongol invasions in the 13th century, the fortress and residence of Hungary's kings. The tall round structure is Salamon Tower. Legend has it that Vlad the Impaler (the inspiration for Dracula) was imprisoned here in the 15th century.

Right: ....and past this large domed church which was pointed out to us as something of great importance. I believe it is the Basilica of Esztergom (I wasn't taking notes) which is Hungary's largest church. Esztergom is the birth and coronation place of the first Hungarian king, St Stephen. It was the capital of Hungary until the 13th century.

There was another rather silly 'quiz' after dinner and normal musical entertainment  before bedtime.

At some point, before reveille, we reached Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia at the foot of the Carpathian mountains. It is a city which straddles the river, north/south. The northern half contains the 'Baroque Old Town' which is the touristy bit and which we subsequently explored. Left: The square next to where we docked. We set off in our little groups for the guided tour at 9.00am.

This part of the city is 'picture-postcard' attractive with a maze of cobbled streets, pedestrianised squares and a multitude of delightful cafés and restaurants. All these 'Bohemian' cities seem to have houses dedicated to famous conductors such as Mozart, and Bratislava is no exception. Our guide, a 'talkative' Slovak lady took us around this maze of streets and squares and filled us with (too) many details concerning the buildings we passed, and the complicated history . I became thoroughly disorientated. I show photos below in no particular order to give you some idea.

Right: The public transport.

Left: A typical street bordered by pretty pastel coloured houses. I forget the name of the church at the end. There are no less than 12 churches of various style, size and denomination marked on the street map of the Old Town. 

Right: This is one of the bigger ones....St Martin's Cathedral (I think).

Left: The statue of Pavol Hviezdoslav (1849-1921) and fountain in the Square named after him. He was a poet, dramatist and sometime politician. Obviously well regarded.

There are fountains everywhere in this city.

Right: As in all respectable cities, there is a decent 'Oirish Bear' (Irish Bar). This one, The Dubliner Irish Pub, looked most inviting. We didn't have time to try it out.

Left: Almost next door is a café called 'Historische Konditorei'. Its interior is something to marvel at! A 'protected' historic building, we were told.

Right: A curious and eye-catching (much photographed) piece of 'street art'.

Left: The Old (Main) Square, Hlavné Námestie in the local lingo. One of many squares. It is considered the 'centre' of the city (maybe the 'Old' bit). It contains another elaborate fountain and the old Town Hall.

Right: Also in this square is a bench seat for the weary. Leaning over it, rather rudely, is the figure of Mr Napoleon Bonaparte. I believe he visited the city during the Napoleonic Wars in 1805.

Left: The Slovac National Theatre. It is in a square near where our ship was moored.

There are also lots of ice-cream shops. The weather was hot (as it has been throughout this voyage), and I treated myself to one from this place - Luculus. It is one of the more well known establishments (recommended to me).

That will do for our walk around the Old Town; Part 1 of the guided tour. Part 2 was a visit to Bratislava Castle on the hill to the west. 

..........To follow!