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| Gateway to the Gaslamp Quarter |
My final Amtrak ride was comfortable ( not such good food as VIA in Canada, and no Dennis equivalent ) and lacking the spectacular scenery down the California coast that I had been looking forward to because we were diverted inland via Bakersfield and Tehachapi due to poxy engineering works. The only interesting countryside was going through the Tehachapi Valley.
Left: Average age of the passengers was about 70.
They even had wi-fi on this train which worked for some of the way. The ladies were more interested in knitting.
Right: Some of the hilly bits in the Tehachapi Valley
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Left: So you think we have extensive wind-farms. This is only a small section of a vast array across the hillside, somewhere south of Bakersfield.
San Diego, the home of the US navy Pacific Fleet, and indeed a most pleasant city. "Howdy sailor!", or whatever the local expression is. All this countryside from somewhere north of San Francisco downwards was part of Mexico until the US annexed it in 1848 following the Mexican War. The US complain that too many Mexicans are now crossing the border. The Mexicans claim, with some justification, that the border crossed them. Much of the architecture and food in San Diego reflects this.
Right: Quite an amusing statue, amongst many others along the quayside depicting something to do with the US Navy and their San Diego heritage. This one is big if you relate it in size to the person taking the photo up her skirt. The thing on the right is the pointy end of USS Midway.
... right lads, you've got 'no hope' or 'Bob Hope'!
This is he entertaining the troops.
Right: The superstructure of USS Midway ( retired in 1992 ). It is now a really good 'museum'. I spent 3 hours on/in it and didn't even get to the upstairs bits. The Americans are unbeatable at putting on these exhibits with 'audio' tours and people ( ex-crew ) giving excellent briefings. They charge quite a lot too, but they get the customers.
Left: Two of many US Navy aircraft on display on the deck. For those that are interested, you know what they are. For those that are not, you won't much care. ( clue; left..'Top Gun', right...'Iraq war' )
Right: A tiny part of the 'enlisted men's' sleeping quarters, and there were about 4000 of them on the ship. It makes Alcatraz look comparatively spacious.
Flight-deck of an aircraft on the ship. Prize ( bottle of fizz ) to anyone who identifies it.
Right: There were many and varied 'simulators' open to the public. These particular four gave you, at $18 for 15 minutes, the chance to try your hand at flying and landing an F18 on the ship. I watched and saw some of these go through 360 degrees both in pitch and roll! ( yes, they could do that!). I didn't try because a) I was too mean to pay b) I didn't want to show my ineptitude and c) because I would probably have been sick.
Left: While all this was going on, some naval chap was having his wedding reception on the ship ( this was taken on the 'aircraft lift' up to the deck ). The lady on the right has a rather naff tattoo.
I was staying in the 'Gas-lamp Quarter'. Lots of pubs, restaurants including, of course, the mandatory Irish selection. One of which put on 'Irish Dancing' every night. It was extremely noisy ( all that irritating foot stamping 'river-dance' crap ) but the locals adored it. The area was high spirited until late but never never did one see any yobbish drunkenness.
Right: Girl with her pet snake in the Seaport district. This was a pleasant area on the quayside of quaint shops, bars and people doing 'exhibits' and handicrafts. Many jugglers, people with performing parrots ( which seems to be a popular American side-show ), musicians, clowns etc. It was jolly. There were also, as in all western US cities I have visited, a lot of 'panhandlers' plying their trade, which is an acknowledged irritation. For some reason, the south eastern states seem to have got rid of them ( they probably 'counsel' them...... with a truncheon ).
Left: The Hotel Del Coronado ( The Del ). This was one of the biggest and most luxurious hotels of it's age built in the US, on the island of Coronado in San Diego Bay, in 1887. It is built of wood. It has added to it's glamour because it is where ( I was told ) King Edward V111 ( as the Prince of Wales ) stayed with Mrs Wallis Simpson. I went in for breakfast. I soon came out again. There was a queue, and there was also the price............
.......I mean, can you believe it! $76.50 ( why bother with the 50 cents? ) for coffee, bacon and eggs! And that is without tax and a 20% tip. No wonder it adds that "Children should be accompanied by adults at all times". What child, 6 - 12, would be carrying that amount of cash with it for a bowl of rice-crispies. What adult would pay? But they must do. Amazing.
Left: This is an extremely boring photograph. I took it through the perspex windows of a tour 'trolley' bus coming back over the road bridge from Coronado ( it, the bridge, was opened by Ronald Reagan ). It shows, blurred in the background, the base of the US Navy SEALS ( as we were informed by the tour bus commentator ). They are yet another 'Special Forces' unit that the US military produce in such profusion. Most US forces seem to be 'special' in some way. The only really 'special' units are those that say they aren't! I took it because to do so might contravene some stupid law about taking pictures of 'top secret' establishments that only tour bus companies are allowed to disclose. It is also interesting ( to me anyway ) that the name of the SEALS parachute display team is 'The Leapfrogs'. They do 'naff' as well as they do 'secret'.
Talking of King Edward V111 ( somewhere above ), I was again struck by the fact that a large number of the US public are infatuated by our Royal Family. The recent film 'The King's Speech' has encouraged this. I was told several times by people of all ages that I met, how they were so looking forward to 'The Wedding'. There is a big interest and respect for our Royals ( I'm sure not by all! ). That and, as I've said before, Premier League football, are by far and away the two most identifiable and popular national institutions that the UK exports to the USA, and maybe to the rest of the world for all I know. Not sure what to make of it, but possibly a good reason why not to denigrate the Royals, or football in UK.
There was so much to see and do in San Diego. Many US cities provide such a plethora of 'tourist' related things to see and do, and they do it with great panache. I was told that the three main income sources for the city were, in order, 1) The US Navy 2) Bio-chemicals 3) Tourism. I did not have time to do as much as I would have liked. I failed to explore Balboa Park, largely due to the fact that it was holding it's annual 'Earth Weekend' ( don't ask ) and was over-packed with visitors. This is the largest urban park in the US. It contains many museums, entertainments, gardens, a big zoo, theatres, an 'organ pavilion' donated by John Spreckels ( brother of our Adolph of 'sugar-daddy' fame in San Francisco ) which gives free concerts. It's theatre is situated under 'short finals' for runway 27 at the international airport. When a 'plane is approaching to land, an observer in the theatre switches on an amber light. The actors see this, and when the plane is about to go overhead, the light goes red and the actors freeze in mid-sentence or song until they get a green light to continue! It is one of the main attractions of this theatre! The approach to Rwy 27 is indeed low over the surrounding buildings ( I ducked, and I was in a bus! ).
I managed a visit to the 'Old Town'. This was built by the Spanish/Mexicans. It is a township-cum-museum. Fun! Lots of old 'Wild West' exhibits and Mexican things. They also, curiously, had a very expensive cigar 'emporium' specializing in Davidoff cigars ( Cuban cigars still cannot be sold in USA ). I was shown some of these selling ( not to me, I hasten to add ) at $80 each! You can, nearly, get breakfast at the 'Del' hotel for that.
Right: There was a 'US mail stable' museum exhibiting some interesting old stage-coaches, plus much other original memorabilia. This is one of the Wells Fargo jobs. I noticed that 'Studebaker', the famous old cars manufacturers, originally made farm trailers, of which several were on display.
Left: A jolly Mexican ´dummy´ which waved it's hand and said things ( can't remember what..... perhaps "ay Gringo, get inside for a taco-way pronto" ) outside a Mexican restaurant. To me it looks a bit like 'Pepe', for those who know Pepe. Perhaps it was Pepe!
Right: This Mexican guy played his harp spectacularly well. He did requests and was seldom flummoxed. I rather caught him out with my request for 'The Blaydon Races'.
One reason I was a bit short of time to sight-see was that I was trying to organise my venture into Mexico. I am going to bang on a bit here ( apologies ) because I got somewhat angry with otherwise helpful Americans. My intention is to enlighten you! I had been to see three 'tour agents/fixers' in San Francisco and another couple in San Diego for advice on travelling to Mexico; people who should be knowledgeable on this matter. Tour Agents are difficult to find in the USA because, they tell me, of the internet. Those that I did visit were a) all women ( why is that? ) and b) absolutely useless. They were only interested in selling their pre-packaged tours and not interested in giving me any info on Mexico because there's 'no demand now'."Oh, that place is a bit dangerous", they all said "we wouldn't recommend it". I asked if they had been there. "Oh no, it's too dangerous"! ( so it´s not surprising there´s no demand! ) OK, I know that there has been trouble with Mexican drug gangs having nasty shoot-outs. They occur mostly ( I was told by a chap in the Green Tortoise who has travelled extensively there ), in known border areas and involve, 99.9% recurring of cases, those involved in the cartels and agencies fighting them. Only very rarely have innocent bystanders got caught in the crossfire normally 'cos they accidentally strayed onto the pitch at kick-off. Acapulco and a few other touristy areas have had a few passing problems. Maybe one in a million ( I can't even be bothered to find the statistics ) tourists has been affected. But from this, the danger of travelling to Mexico has been exaggerated, embroidered, embellished and inflated by silly people such as these ( who haven't been there ) and they have spread fear, which is so easy to do, amongst the American public ( and probably the British too ), and Governments and insurance companies have not dared to contradict in case they may be held responsible if something happens. Sorry to bang on, but I feel strongly about these idiot scaremongers. I went over to Tijuana, Mexico, ( 40 mins by trolly-bus, and no hassle, except coming back through US customs and a 3 hour queue; it was Friday ) and organised a bus trip from Tijuana to La Paz ( 1000 miles ) in a 'luxury' bus for Monday with no problem. Tijuana is fine and the people I met cheerful and helpful but 'no speeka much Eengleesh'. ´´ Hey, you from Englaterra?´´, they ask, ´´you like Manchester United?´´. It was a little scruffy, dusty and chaotic ( and cheap ) compared to San Diego, but not in any way threatening and I felt safe and heard no rattle of musketry! My main worry is the Tequila. The only thing I knew previously about Tijuana was 'Herb Alpert and the Tijuana Brass' Do you remember him? Is he still alive? Is he now the god-father of a drug gang? I suspect that Mexico is no more, or less, dangerous than the UK where, in some dodgy areas, we hear of all sorts of stabbings and shootings of innocent people. Any catastrophe would be, as anywhere, like being hit by lightening. I might be proved wrong, and I may be tempting fate by saying this, but I suspect it is all over-blown. I will let you know. If I survive, that is.
I have just realised; this is probably the last time I will be in the USofA. I will take happy and vivid memories ( discounting some silly travel agents and, maybe, Miss Stroppy on the Amtrak Coast Starlight from Seattle to San Francisco ) of the place with me. My travels around the edge of this vast and disparate country have been... how do I sum it up.......Aaarsum!
........ or should I say "sumaaarse"!
I am next setting off from Tijuana ( with, or without, Herb Alpert ) on a 24 hour, just over 1000 mile, bus journey down the Baja California Peninsular to La Paz. I tell you this now in case the silly bats in the travel agencies were correct all the while and I end up feeding the worms they put in the Tequila bottles.
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