THE BURNING LAKE AND URA FESTIVAL

29th Apr 2026

Ura village in Bumthang District

Today we were to travel the farthest east on our journey to Ura village (or a collection of villages) in the Ura Valley.to attend the third day of a big four day Festival called the Yakchoe Tshechu. 

However, before that, we made a diversion to another pilgrimage site called the 'Burning Lake' on the Tang Chou river. Left: The track, festooned with prayer flags, which led down to the 'lake'. Not a long walk this time thankfully!

As always in Buddhist Bhutan there is a long and complicated 'legend' surrounding this place. I will attempt to summarise: In the 15th century a chap called Pema Lingpa (now known as Bhutan's greatest treasure revealer) had a dream that some of Guru Rinpoche's (yes, him again) 'relics' known as 'terma' were lying at the bottom of this 'lake' which urged him to go and look. He went, dived in and swam into a large cave where a woman with one eye handed him a treasure chest. The locals were cynical of his claims so he invited them to return with him and he would retrieve another terma. He told the assembled crowd "If I am a genuine revealer of treasures, then I may return with the treasure and my lamp still alight. However, if I am a devil, may I drown". He dived in. After a long while people began to think he had drowned. He then suddenly burst out of the water holding a statue, a treasure chest, and the butter lamp in his hands was still alight! He became a revered character as a result. I believe the 'statue' is now a relic kept in a monastery or temple somewhere. He also went on to prophesy that that one day there would be a great centre of learning for women in the Tang Valley, and that has come to pass. It is the Pema Tekchok Chuling Nunnery which was founded in 2000, the place nearby (with absent nuns) we visited a couple of days ago. It is the only Buddhist university for women in existence in the country so far. 

So, down to the 'lake' (right) which was somewhat unimpressive. It is just a pool in the river. It is a popular site for tourists and pilgrims. We had no idea of how deep it was but were told that five people have drowned here since 2011 including a French tourist and his Bhutanese guide in 2015. Were they treasure hunting I wonder? We were urged not to fall in.

Left: Looking back on the bridge viewing area.

PS. It is said that 'enlightened beings' can see the temple at the bottom of the 'lake'. Nobody in our group appeared to be 'enlightened'.

The nuns frequently visit this 'sacred' site and have built a small cupboard near the bridge where they store butter lamps to make offerings. Right: There are also many 'tsha tshas' lodged in the crevices. I described these little clay conical things in a previous blog.

Left: The sign at the bridge briefly describing the site.

Next on for a rather good breakfast of bacon and eggs in the town of Chamkhar, plus a bit of shopping. I bought a good map.

Then a further couple of hours drive over a pass or two to Ura (photo at top).This is the home village of our guide Sonam and his parents, and other family members, still live here. It is a very pretty and rustic place with several other similar villages in the area. Right: There are many cows wandering the streets, as is the case in most towns and villages in Bhutan. You had to be careful where you trod!

We were warmly welcomed by Sonam's parents and sister (left) at their house. Other tourists were also present and tea was provided. The reason for 'other tourists' will be become clear.

Before moving on I was kitted out in a traditional 'Gho'. Right: I stand proudly showing it off. My right hand is on my wallet and other valuable documents. There are no inside pockets. The area above the waist band serves as large pouch and place to store all your bits and pieces. It was relatively secure.

Now, the main reason for our visit was to attend the 'Ura Yakchoe Tshechu', or at least an afternoon of it.

This is a major four day Festival attracting all the locals and many tourists. The origins of this shindig centre around another long and complicated myth/legend involving a revered relic, a statue I think, believed to have been left behind by a mysterious lama centuries ago. The story involves an elderly woman, a visiting and disappearing lama (suspected to be that man Guru Rinpoche yet again, in reincarnation), the relic, its mysterious flight to a secret place, a nine-headed snake and the cure for leprosy in the area. Most confusing. Anyway, the locals gather to honour this relic, believing it offers blessings of health, prosperity and protection from misfortune. I was not sure where this 'relic' is held, but there is a ceremonial unveiling and blessing of it at some point.

There is a good YouTube video which describes the 'legend' and the Festival in detail. The 'link' below the photo might work if you click onto it and put up with some irritating  adverts to begin with. Give it a go.

                                                      Bhutan_Yakchoe , the Grand Festival of UraTap to unmute2xInfoShoppingIf playback doesn't begin shortly, try restarting your device.•Up nextLiveUpcomingCancelPlay nowShareInclude playlistAn error occurred while retrieving sharing information. Please try again later.Watch LaterShareCopy link                             

In effect it is a four day religious and social get-together involving much ceremony, dancing, feasts and plenty of wine. We started off at the temple on the edge of the main square. After a short religious ceremony we were given an interesting talk on the Festival, in very fluent English, by a most erudite 'professor' who had become a Don after studying at Cambridge University and still spends much time in UK.

I am publishing this now just to see if the YouTube link works. The rest, describing the photos below, to follow at some point.

                                                      Bhutan_Yakchoe , the Grand Festival of UraTap to unmute2xInfoShoppingIf playback doesn't begin shortly, try restarting your device.•Up nextLiveUpcomingCancelPlay nowShareInclude playlistAn error occurred while retrieving sharing information. Please try again later.Watch LaterShareCopy link                             

CLIMB TO THOWADRA MONASTERY

28th Apr 2026

Thowadra Monastery

An early start for another hike, again in the Tang valley. Our minibus took us to the end of a valley road, near the town of Chamkaa. The aim was to climb up to the very sacred Thowadra monastery, a pilgrimage site, which stands isolated on the top of a cliff at 11,200ft. This monastery was constructed around the year 1238 and is another site where the legendary 8th century Guru Pinoche (him again) did some more meditating and left some relics behind. It is also home to a small community of hardy monks and their families.

Before we set off we were each given a roll of 10 coloured prayer flags and encouraged to write the name of those to whom you wished 'blessings and good fortune' on each flag. I struggled to find my 10 names! These were to be hung up at the monastery.

We started by crossing this river (left), and it was to be a rather more strenuous climb and trek than we had experienced previously. They were just the 'warmers'! At these altitudes some people experience problems, we were told. I don't think any of us suffered too badly, but it did mean you were (or at least I was) short of breath when walking. 

It was a long, slow and tiring climb up and occasionally down some steep rocky slopes with sometimes rudimentary steps along narrow pathways with often vertiginous drops over the side. Right: This photo gives you some idea of the terrain we negotiated. As usual Sonam led the way and Tensin helped those who fell behind, and a couple sometimes did. Sonam and Tensin seemed indefatigable, but then they were used to the altitude.

Left: There were a few 'pit stops' en-route and we took frequent rests to collect together and recover our breath.

Right: A chorten en-route and we did meet a few other trekkers on the way.

Left: The monastery, half hidden, came into sight after what had already been a very long and tiring climb. It looked ominously steep going from now onwards! Unfortunately my photographic skills failed to capture the severity of it.

Right: Getting closer.

Anyway, we all made it in one piece and had a tour around the monastery and temple building (mostly hidden in the trees). There was also a most welcome café. The climb had taken us about 3.5 hours. We witnessed a 'ceremony' in the temple. At some point we were introduced to a senior priest who gave us a taper to each light a butter lamp in prayer, or something. We also met a monk who had, with his family (he had a very young daughter), lived up here for over two years. It seemed an amazing logistical feat just to get all the necessary stores and food up to this place. I believe it is all done on foot with the occasional help by a sure-footed pony. 

Left: We duly hung our 'signed' prayer flags around the perimeter of a viewing gallery. 

Right: A view down from the top.

Left: ....and another.

Right: The going back down was much quicker but no less perilous with some slippery and crumbling steps.

Left: There is a chorten at the bottom around which we assembled. There was much thunder and lightening in the distance and the sky was ominously clouding over.

Despite this, our generous host at the Homestay had driven out to set up an impressive picnic/BBQ for us. We made the most of it but the bad weather had caught up. Right: We ate our meal amidst much thunder with accompanying hailstorm!

We got back to the Homestay at about 4.30pm and definitely needed a rest before supper and bed!

I'll finish this now as the next day we had a very busy schedule .........

INTO THE TANG VALLEY

27th Apr 2026 

Mountain view to the north of Bhutan

The mountain Gangkhar Peunsum is the highest mountain in Bhutan. It is on the border with Tibet and stands at 24,836 ft. It is the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Four failed attempts were made in 1985/86. Subsequently Bhutan put a ban on all mountaineering on 'spiritual' grounds. Or maybe because they just don't want the hassle of rescuing stranded mountaineers! It will, as things stand, remain unclimbed.

On Monday morning we set off on another hike starting by crossing the Chamkhar Chhu river somewhere in the north of the Tang valley. These 'hikes' are getting longer and more arduous. This one covered, at a guess, about 6 miles over some steep up and downhill tracks and took about 4 hours.

Left: These flimsy looking swaying suspension bridges were a common means of crossing the rivers.

Right: Rhododendrons, amongst other flowering trees and shrubs, feature largely on the hillsides. There were large areas of them in the distance.

Left: We kept stopping when someone spotted a bird in a tree. Kingfishers were common down by the rivers.

Right: .....and Dave, the ace photographer, spent some time focusing his long lens on the 'tufted thingummy tit'. or whatever it was, hiding in a tree 50 yards away.

Still no sign of the reputed snow leopards, tigers, red pandas, deer or wild boar etc. or any other four legged wild creatures for that matter (I think someone saw a squirrel). Maybe they live higher up and/or avoid humans.

Left: There were some good views down to the valley below.

Right: ....and another.

The going included some steep climbs and descents up and down often very narrow tracks. I failed to get a photo to show this as it was exhausting enough just trying to keep up! I seemed to manage OK but one or two of the others were beginning to struggle at times. Sonam always led the way and Tensin brought up the stragglers in the rear.

Right: : Having a breather in a sheltered spot. The weather had been warmish today and no rain. So far.

Left: We ended up at about 1.15pm at a Nunnery (female monastery). Similar build to the others. Left: The entrance to the temple here.

There were no nuns present (or they were hiding). 

Right: The courtyard at the nunnery featuring the absent nuns. None! Out shopping perhaps?

Left: Then on with a quick drive to the nearby Ogyen Chuling Palace. This privately owned manor, farm buildings and museum originate from the 14th century and the present buildings and homestead from 1898. We had a decent lunch in the farmhouse.

The museum is on four floors. We were given a comprehensive briefing on it by the lady proprietress....too comprehensive perhaps. The stairs between the floors were almost vertical very old (18th century?) wooden ladders. They would certainly fall foul of all the 'elf 'n safety' regulations in UK. The many museum exhibits featured all areas of mainly 18th/19th century life. They included domestic appliances, agricultural equipment, weapons, musical instruments etc.etc. Right: Some domestic stuff.

Left: Some long horns. Similar instruments feature in the noise played in the temples.

Right: A notice explains the horns.

Left: There were many such 'notices'. This one explains the significance of mythical serpents and water spirits. Throughout this country and the Buddhist religion in general there is a plethora of weird and wonderful myths, fables and legends concerning odd creatures (and people). To be honest, I rather lost track!

Right: A 'black faced' clown on display (with another willy). I believe these black faces, masks, can also depict 'wrathful deities'. Masks and costumes feature largely in meaningful ceremonies and dances.

That was all for the day. We were then taken to a Homestay somewhere in the area (I was rather lost by now) which was to be our home for the next two nights. The Homestay is basically a private farmhouse where they provide bedrooms and a dining/sitting room. Some bedrooms had shared bathrooms. For some reason I had the luxury of a double 'en-suite' room to myself. Our hosts prepared good buffet meals and were most charming and helpful. As per most days we all assembled before supper for a briefing by Sonam on the next day's activities and program.

.....and we are not even halfway through this tour!

ONWARDS TO JAKAR

 26th Apr 2026

Inside a typical Buddhist temple in Bhutan

Onwards the next morning on a long mountainous minibus journey to, eventually, Jakar in the Bumthang District. We surmounted four high passes over 10,000ft amsl en-route; Lonala, Pelela, Yongtougla and Kikila and passed the town of Trongsa. More up and down and hairpin bends all skilfully negotiated by our indefatigable driver Tensin. Below: some views on the way.

Left: A typical valley and there were yaks and cows dotted around in the fields below. In fact the cows, of various colour and description, were everywhere (including in the forests and on the streets in towns and villages) and frequently on the roads at all altitudes. They had owners, often elderly women it seemed, who somehow managed to wander about to round them up. I rather forgot to take pics of the cows. There was an awful lot of cow dung around.

Right: Although I did get some photos of yaks. We passed this couple on the road. I believe they are used as pack animals and their abundant wool is used in clothing. Warm furry 'yackets' perhaps?

Left: Another different coloured hairy yak.

We passed this large solar panel array (right). As well as solar power Bhutan is blessed with many large glacial rivers which provide a substantial amount of hydro-electricity. In fact hydro-electricity is one of their chief and financially rewarding exports to India. 

Left: There was much agriculture in the countryside. The main crops were rice, wheat, potatoes and other vegetables and spices such as chilli. The chilli being encountered in the previously mentioned and notoriously breath-taking 'chilli cheese' served at most meals.

Right: A typical Bhutanese dog. They seemed to spend all day comatose and all night barking. I'm not sure what use they were put to and didn't appear to be pets. Maybe they guarded the livestock and crops at night (hence knackered by morning) from marauding packs of wild boar which, I was told, caused much damage. The locals spend a lot of time and effort building wire fences (sometimes electrified) and walls to protect their crops from these swine. 

We stopped for a coffee and break at the Willing Waterfall café. There was a decent waterfall....

Right: ....and a café with a wool and weaving shop attached; The Chumey Yathra Weaving Centre. The proprietress gave us a long and detailed lecture and demo on how various dyes were produced and how the weaving worked. I became rather baffled by the complexity of it all.

Then over the Kikila pass into the district of Bumthang where we stopped, near Jakar, at a 'homestay' house for lunch. I was rather disoriented as to exactly where we were. Left: Our lunch.

A cup of tea after lunch  which, as always,  featured a drop of saki. Those hats? They are traditional and more often have conical tops. Not much good in a wind.

Right: A traditional conical Bhutanese hat.

After lunch we adjourned to the garden where we were introduced to two of Bhutan's major sports; archery and darts. The normal archery ranges are about 145 metres long and the darts range is up to about 35 metres. We were playing on a much reduced distance (it was just an intro!). As it happens Sonam was, some time ago, in the Bhutan National Archery team which won the silver medal in a championship competition in Thailand.

Left: Sonam showed us how to do it. The range was only about 15 metres.

We each had three arrows to fire. Full of confidence, I took aim and missed every time. I nearly scored with my final shot. I don't think the others did any better! See below my pathetic efforts.

We then tried the darts. These are not like darts in a British pub. They are much larger and weigh a couple of pounds. Again, over a short distance, about 10 metres, we all missed the target. More practice needed.

Then on by bus and a short (by previous standards) hike to the Kurjey Monastery (right) built in the 17th century and further added on to in the 20th century. This is one of Bhutan's most sacred pilgrimage sites. It is famous for containing a rock cave where Guru Rinpoche (the legendary 8th century reincarnation of Buddha) meditated leaving an imprint of his body. As you shall discover he spent an awful lot of his life meditating. It also serves as the final resting place for Bhutan's first three kings.

It contains three interconnecting temples. We visited two of them. It was Sunday and the monks were celebrating their Sunday Thanksgiving ritual. I snuck a couple of illegal photos. 

Left: Sitting uncomfortably on the floor again.

Right: There was a constant murmur of monks chanting prayers. Interestingly the chief monk sitting on the chair led the prayers and chanted in a very weird low pitched growling voice. Apparently it takes a lot of practice to use your voice in this way. It sounded very eery and supernatural.

Left: The wall surrounding this compound had 108 small stupas/chortens on it. That magic number '108' again. You might just make them out of you enlarge this photo.

We had not yet had our fill of monasteries! As an afterthought we were taken to another, even older, but smaller, 15th century monastery nearby (which seemed devoid of monks) but contained some highly regarded and treasured murals painted by a famous artist in the 15th century (forgotten who). Unfortunately these wall paintings were very faded and peeling and apparently could not be restored.

That was it for the day. Phew, a long distance had been covered and so now to our hotel, outside Jakar, for supper and the night. This was the Mountain Resort Hotel complex (right) and it was again a very comfortable hostelry with impeccable service.

PS. Just a mention of the weather in these parts. It is very variable, as you might expect in mountainous terrain. It ranged from blue skies and moderately warm, to low cloud and hazy, to rain showers and quite chilly at altitude. There was also the frequent rumbling of thunder (that Thunder Dragon again) and occasional hail storms. The paths got quite muddy at times and we always carried a waterproof jacket. So far we had not experienced any prolonged bad weather.

....and we have only completed day 5!