From Jakar, via the Yotongla Pass (11,300ft), along more forested and mountainous hairpin bends to Trongsa, the capital of Trongsa District, which is smack in the centre of the country. We visited the Trongsa Fortress (a Dzong in Bhutanese), the largest in Bhutan and established as such in the 17th century (1647 I believe) when these fortresses became the outposts to unite and control the country. They house both religious and civil administrative sections and is the seat of power in the district.
Left: We were given a comprehensive tour around the several courtyards and inside the temple of course (no shoes, no photos).
Right: ....Elaborately constructed offices and accommodation.
Left: Plus the omnipresent prayer wheels.
Right: The fortress stands on the bank of the river Mangdi Chuu.
From here we ventured west and then north through the charming town of Wangdue Phodrang and over the Puna Tsang Chu river towards Punakha.
My notes and photos got a bit muddled en-route but we stopped somewhere for lunch (with beer!) and stopped at this impressive chorten (left) which, I think, was built by the 1st King.
Right: This impressive plaque, a Dharma Wheel, was on a wall of the chorten and represents the 'teachings of Buddha'.
We arrived in Punakha in the early evening and drove to a 'Spa' Hotel called the Zhingkham Resort. It was up a hill to the west of the town and most comfortable with 'chalet' style buildings plus an excellent bar and restaurant. In doing so we passed the nearby Punakha Dzong (left) which sits on the confluence of two large glacial rivers; the Mo Chhu (Female River) and the Pho Chhu (Male River). The Fortress is surrounded by colourful Jacaranda trees.
More about this fortress/dzong later because the next morning we set of on another 'hike' up and down the hills to the north of the town. It started by crossing the river by another of these swinging and wobbly suspension bridges (right).
Left: These rivers are home to white water rafting. It looked rather fun...but no time (or inclination) on our trip to do it. It is also rather expensive; organised by 'Druk Rafting Service'. But 'no fishing' as explained earlier.
I have little record or memory of where we went but the hike lasted for over 3 hours and at some point we arrived at this stupa (right), the Kamsun Yulley Namgyal Chorten. It was built up on top of a hill on instructions from the Queen Mother (mother of the 4th King) in 2004.
Left: A view over the river from the chorten.
Following lunch at an out-of-town restaurant we returned for a visit to the Punakha Fortress. Right: This photo of it, lit up, was taken the previous evening from my bedroom veranda overlooking the river.
Punakha was the capital of Bhutan until the 3rd King moved it to Thimphu in 1955. Thimphu was growing and had more space for development.
Left: The entrance to the fortress over the bridge with the jacaranda trees prominent. It was built, as were other fortresses, in the 17th century, by the warlord Zhaborung (whose statue sometimes sits on Buddha's left side). It is the second largest in Bhutan. It supposedly houses the relics and remains of Zhaborung which are only 'viewed' only once a year..perhaps.
It is still used as the venue for coronations and Royal weddings etc. The present (5th) King was crowned here in 2008 and married here in 2011.
The compound is again, as per the Trongsa fortress, a combination of administrative and religious sections. Right: This fig tree in a courtyard is a sacred Bodi tree and revered as directly descended from the original tree in India where Buddha attained 'enlightenment'. Maybe.
Left: A view inside the temple. Many more myths, legends, magic, Buddhist beliefs etc. were explained at length by Sonam. There was something about a 'magical dagger' which features highly in the Buddhist faith here. I'm afraid I got rather confused by all these stories.
Right: Sonam posing at a prayer wheel nearby. I can't remember where exactly it was.
Left: Portrait photos of the present Royal Family feature in most of these places. They are genuinely much respected.
Back to the hotel, and then out to a restaurant in town for supper. Can't think why we didn't eat at the hotel which had a perfectly decent restaurant.
Today we were to travel the farthest east on our journey to Ura village (or a collection of villages) in the Ura Valley.to attend the third day of a big four day Festival called the Yakchoe Tshechu.
However, before that, we made a diversion to another pilgrimage site called the 'Burning Lake' on the Tang Chou river. Left: The track, festooned with prayer flags, which led down to the 'lake'. Not a long walk this time thankfully!
As always in Buddhist Bhutan there is a long and complicated 'legend' surrounding this place. I will attempt to summarise: In the 15th century a chap called Pema Lingpa (now known as Bhutan's greatest treasure revealer) had a dream that some of Guru Rinpoche's (yes, him again) 'relics' known as 'terma' were lying at the bottom of this 'lake' which urged him to go and look. He went, dived in and swam into a large cave where a woman with one eye handed him a treasure chest. The locals were cynical of his claims so he invited them to return with him and he would retrieve another terma. He told the assembled crowd "If I am a genuine revealer of treasures, then I may return with the treasure and my lamp still alight. However, if I am a devil, may I drown". He dived in. After a long while people began to think he had drowned. He then suddenly burst out of the water holding a statue, a treasure chest, and the butter lamp in his hands was still alight! He became a revered character as a result. I believe the 'statue' is now a relic kept in a monastery or temple somewhere. He also went on to prophesy that that one day there would be a great centre of learning for women in the Tang Valley, and that has come to pass. It is the Pema Tekchok Chuling Nunnery which was founded in 2000, the place nearby (with absent nuns) we visited a couple of days ago. It is the only Buddhist university for women in existence in the country so far.
So, down to the 'lake' (right) which was somewhat unimpressive. It is just a pool in the river. It is a popular site for tourists and pilgrims. We had no idea of how deep it was but were told that five people have drowned here since 2011 including a French tourist and his Bhutanese guide in 2015. Were they treasure hunting I wonder? We were urged not to fall in.
Left: Looking back on the bridge viewing area.
PS. It is said that 'enlightened beings' can see the temple at the bottom of the 'lake'. Nobody in our group appeared to be 'enlightened'.
The nuns frequently visit this 'sacred' site and have built a small cupboard near the bridge where they store butter lamps as offerings. Right: There are also many 'tsha tshas' lodged in the crevices. I described these little clay conical things in a previous blog.
Left: The sign at the bridge briefly describing the site.
Next on for a rather good breakfast of bacon and eggs in the town of Chamkhar, plus a bit of shopping. I bought a good map.
Then a further couple of hours drive east over a pass or two to Ura (photo at top).This is the home village of our guide Sonam and his parents, and other family members, still live here. It is a very pretty and rustic place with several other similar villages in the area. Right: There are many cows wandering the streets, as is the case in most towns and villages in Bhutan. You had to be careful where you trod!
We were warmly welcomed by Sonam's parents and sister (left) at their house. Other tourists were also present and tea was provided. The reason for 'other tourists' will be become clear.
Before moving on I was kitted out in a traditional 'Gho'. Right: I stand proudly showing it off. My right hand is on my wallet and other valuable documents. There are no inside pockets. The area above the waist band serves as large pouch and place to store all your bits and pieces. It was relatively secure.
Now, the main reason for our visit was to attend the 'Ura Yakchoe Tshechu', or at least an afternoon of it.
This is a major four day Festival attracting all the locals and many tourists. The origins of this shindig centre around another long and complicated myth/legend involving a revered relic, a small statue I think, believed to have been left behind by a mysterious lama centuries ago. The story involves an elderly woman, a visiting and disappearing lama (suspected to be that man Guru Rinpoche yet again, in reincarnation), the relic, its mysterious flight to a secret place, a nine-headed snake and the cure for leprosy in the area. Most confusing. Anyway, the locals gather to honour this relic, believing it offers blessings of health, prosperity and protection from misfortune. I was not sure where this 'relic' is held, but there is a ceremonial unveiling and blessing of it at some point.
There is a good YouTube video which describes the 'legend' and the Festival in detail. The 'link' below the photo might work if you click onto it and put up with some irritating adverts to begin with. Give it a go, but it is rather long at 42 mins.
In effect it is a four day religious and social get-together involving much ceremony, dancing, feasts and plenty of wine. We started off at the temple on the edge of the main square. After a short religious ceremony we were given an interesting talk on the Festival, in very fluent English, by a most erudite 'professor' who had become a Don after studying at Cambridge University and still spends much time in UK.
Then out into the square where there was a good crowd of locals and tourists in sheltered seating around the perimeter. Luckily sheltered as it was drizzling with rain, and the locals had brought picnics.
The dances were performed to the sound of loud horns and drums. They seemed non-stop and featured mostly masked performers wearing very elaborate costumes. I believe they are traditional centuries-old dances telling stories of guardian deities, moral triumphs, spiritual cleansing and the victory over evil spirits. I was most impressed by the two guys blowing their horns. They never stopped for the two hours or so we were here! Quite exhausting I would imagine.
I show below some pics and a couple of videos of dances in progress. It was somewhat difficult for an ignorant tourist to fathom out what they represented.
Right: This character ran into the stands. I learnt that he is the 'masked joker' known as an 'Atsara' wearing a distinctive mask with a large grin. While they engage in slapstick humour their role in Bhutanese culture is deeply profound....the only figures permitted to openly mock religion, societal norms and the crowd itself. They are to remind people not to take themselves too seriously. We could do with a few of them in UK! They also have other social duties at festivals.
Left: He latched onto me and borrowed my cap.He wielded a large wooden phallus and poked it threateningly in my direction. This rather rude object is normally used to bless the crowd....I was reliably informed. I think they might be 'misunderstood' at the local village fête in UK.
What a Festival it must be and we were only there for an afternoon of the four days of it. We left to go back to Sonam's father's house for a good late lunch and departure at 4.15pm. I was rather sorry to have to return my smart Gho.
It was then back west for the long mountainous journey back to Jakar and the Mountain Resort Hotel where we stayed three nights ago.
As a total 'non-sequitur' I post this video which, I think, was sent by Sonam and not part of our trip. It involves more 'willies'. There is no doubt that they play a very important, respected and widely visible role in Bhutanese life (and prolific in souvenir shops). They are talismans not only for fertility, but protection, subduing evil spirits and good fortune. So, coming soon to a fair near you.......
An early start for another hike, again in the Tang valley. Our minibus took us to the end of a valley road, near the town of Chamkaa. The aim was to climb up to the very sacred Thowadra monastery, a pilgrimage site, which stands isolated on the top of a cliff at 11,200ft. This monastery was constructed around the year 1238 and is another site where the legendary 8th century Guru Pinoche (him again) did some more meditating and left some relics behind. It is also home to a small community of hardy monks and their families.
Before we set off we were each given a roll of 10 coloured prayer flags and encouraged to write the name of those to whom you wished 'blessings and good fortune' on each flag. I struggled to find my 10 names! These were to be hung up at the monastery.
We started by crossing this river (left), and it was to be a rather more strenuous climb and trek than we had experienced previously. They were just the 'warmers'! At these altitudes some people experience problems, we were told. I don't think any of us suffered too badly, but it did mean you were (or at least I was) short of breath when walking.
It was a long, slow and tiring climb up and occasionally down some steep rocky slopes with sometimes rudimentary steps along narrow pathways with often vertiginous drops over the side. Right: This photo gives you some idea of the terrain we negotiated. As usual Sonam led the way and Tensin helped those who fell behind, and a couple sometimes did. Sonam and Tensin seemed indefatigable, but then they were used to the altitude.
Left: There were a few 'pit stops' en-route and we took frequent rests to collect together and recover our breath.
Right: A chorten en-route and we did meet a few other trekkers on the way.
Left: The monastery, half hidden, came into sight after what had already been a very long and tiring climb. It looked ominously steep going from now onwards! Unfortunately my photographic skills failed to capture the severity of it.
Left: We duly hung our 'signed' prayer flags around the perimeter of a viewing gallery.
Right: A view down from the top.
Left: ....and another.
Right: The going back down was much quicker but no less perilous with some slippery and crumbling steps.
Left: There is a chorten at the bottom around which we assembled. There was much thunder and lightening in the distance and the sky was ominously clouding over.
Despite this, our generous host at the Homestay had driven out to set up an impressive picnic/BBQ for us. We made the most of it but the bad weather had caught up. Right: We ate our meal amidst much thunder with accompanying hailstorm!
We got back to the Homestay at about 4.30pm and definitely needed a rest before supper and bed!
I'll finish this now as the next day we had a very busy schedule .........
The mountain Gangkhar Peunsum is the highest mountain in Bhutan. It is on the border with Tibet and stands at 24,836 ft. It is the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Four failed attempts were made in 1985/86. Subsequently Bhutan put a ban on all mountaineering on 'spiritual' grounds. Or maybe because they just don't want the hassle of rescuing stranded mountaineers! It will, as things stand, remain unclimbed.
On Monday morning we set off on another hike starting by crossing the Chamkhar Chhu river somewhere in the north of the Tang valley. These 'hikes' are getting longer and more arduous. This one covered, at a guess, about 6 miles over some steep up and downhill tracks and took about 4 hours.
Left: These flimsy looking swaying suspension bridges were a common means of crossing the rivers.
Right: Rhododendrons, amongst other flowering trees and shrubs, feature largely on the hillsides. There were large areas of them in the distance.
Left: We kept stopping when someone spotted a bird in a tree. Kingfishers were common down by the rivers.
Right: .....and Dave, the ace photographer, spent some time focusing his long lens on the 'tufted thingummy tit'. or whatever it was, hiding in a tree 50 yards away.
Still no sign of the reputed snow leopards, tigers, red pandas, deer or wild boar etc. or any other four legged wild creatures for that matter (I think someone saw a squirrel). Maybe they live higher up and/or avoid humans.
Left: There were some good views down to the valley below.
Right: ....and another.
The going included some steep climbs and descents up and down often very narrow tracks. I failed to get a photo to show this as it was exhausting enough just trying to keep up! I seemed to manage OK but one or two of the others were beginning to struggle at times. Sonam always led the way and Tensin brought up the stragglers in the rear.
Right: : Having a breather in a sheltered spot. The weather had been warmish today and no rain. So far.
Left: We ended up at about 1.15pm at a Nunnery (female monastery). Similar build to the others. Left: The entrance to the temple here.
There were no nuns present (or they were hiding).
Right: The courtyard at the nunnery featuring the absent nuns. None! Out shopping perhaps?
Left: Then on with a quick drive to the nearby Ogyen Chuling Palace. This privately owned manor, farm buildings and museum originate from the 14th century and the present buildings and homestead from 1898. We had a decent lunch in the farmhouse.
The museum is on four floors. We were given a comprehensive briefing on it by the lady proprietress....too comprehensive perhaps. The stairs between the floors were almost vertical very old (18th century?) wooden ladders. They would certainly fall foul of all the 'elf 'n safety' regulations in UK. The many museum exhibits featured all areas of mainly 18th/19th century life. They included domestic appliances, agricultural equipment, weapons, musical instruments etc.etc. Right: Some domestic stuff.
Left: Some long horns. Similar instruments feature in the noise played in the temples.
Right: A notice explains the horns.
Left: There were many such 'notices'. This one explains the significance of mythical serpents and water spirits. Throughout this country and the Buddhist religion in general there is a plethora of weird and wonderful myths, fables and legends concerning odd creatures (and people). To be honest, I rather lost track!
Right: A 'black faced' clown on display (with another willy). I believe these black faces, masks, can also depict 'wrathful deities'. Masks and costumes feature largely in meaningful ceremonies and dances.
That was all for the day. We were then taken to a Homestay somewhere in the area (I was rather lost by now) which was to be our home for the next two nights. The Homestay is basically a private farmhouse where they provide bedrooms and a dining/sitting room. Some bedrooms had shared bathrooms. For some reason I had the luxury of a double 'en-suite' room to myself. Our hosts prepared good buffet meals and were most charming and helpful. As per most days we all assembled before supper for a briefing by Sonam on the next day's activities and program.
.....and we are not even halfway through this tour!
