THE TIGER'S NEST

3rd May 2026

The Tiger's Nest Monastery

It was an early (6.30am) start this morning for our visit to the most iconic landmark in Bhutan; the Tiger's Nest monastery which clings to a sheer granite cliff at 10,250ft amsl.

The story behind it starts with, yet again, that legendary figure (Buddha reincarnated) Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century. He reputedly flew on the back of a winged tigress to a cave at this spot where he spent 3 years, 3 months and 3 days in deep meditation. What?! He must have had a hell of a lot to meditate on and must have got rather bored at times. Not even a TV in those days. A black ritual dagger also miraculously flew into this cave after subduing 'malevolent' entities elsewhere. The tigress was a transformation of his 'consort and disciple' Yeshe Tsogyal who, apparently, retransformed and stayed in another cave nearby.

Anyway, a monastery and temple were built here in 1692 by a local military leader. It burnt down in 1998 (maybe those butter lamps were again responsible) and was rebuilt at vast cost and effort by 2005. It is a well visited pilgrimage, and tourist, site.

The journey from our hotel to the 'base camp' in the Pano Valley was only about 10 miles and we arrived to start the 'trek' at just after 7.00am.

Left: Looking up towards the Tiger's Nest from the base area. It is that little white dot at the tip of the umbrella. A formidable trek and climb was in front of us.

Right: Assembled at the base were many saddled-up ponies. There were many more 'tourist trekkers' around here which for some reason my photos don't show. As mentioned it is a very popular tourist venue.....and was today.

Left. These hardy steeds were, presumably, hired by those who were willing and capable of riding them. They must have been very sure-footed animals.

We were told to keep on the inside of the tracks if any approached us from behind otherwise we might be barged off the edge and over a big drop!

Right: Off we set with Sonam in the lead, guiding us, and Tensin bringing up the rear and any stragglers. The going was sometimes steep both up and down in places.

We were passed by those on pony-back. As advised, we stuck to the inside of the track.

At about half-way we arrived at a small plateau which featured shelter, this prayer wheel (right) and a large café which we made grateful use of on the way back down. The pony riders had to stop here and were on foot for the rest of the way.

Left: Somewhere en-route was this display of 'tsa-tsas' (described in previous blogs).

Right: It was getting closer! The weather began to close in but fortunately cleared again.

Then we reached the final section. This involved a 'viewing' platform before a challenging stretch of 750 very steep stone steps descending into a ravine with another 300 back up to the front gate of the monastery. I was told this but didn't count them! Left: Our group gathering breath before descending the steps.

Right: At the bottom there is a bridge across the ravine with a 200ft waterfall. We were told that Guru Rinpoche's 'consort' inhabited a cave near here while he was doing his meditating. She/he/it must have got a bit bored (and hungry) for the 3+ years he was 'busy' examining his navel!

Left: A small cave at the bottom. Maybe this is the one.

The final steps up were very steep and tiring. However we all made it to the top and the entrance to the 'Nest'. Right: There were big notices to tell us we had to leave any backpacks and cameras outside on a bench. There was even a guard on the entrance who could frisk any suspicious looking camera carriers or bar anyone 'inappropriately' dressed.

The journey up had taken us nearly 3 hours and we were somewhat knackered.

We had a comprehensive tour around the elaborately decorated buildings. In a small chamber to the side of the temple was an ornate panel which covered the front of the entrance to the cave in which Mr Rinpoche had meditated, together with the 'magic black dagger' which had flown in to join him. This entrance is opened, amidst much ceremony, once a year. I'm not sure who is present on this prestigious occasion.

Left. A view down to the valley from the top. It always amazed me how the 'residents' up here manage their re-supplies. There are no cable cars, lifts or helicopters to assist! Also the difficulties in building these complex structures in such inaccessible places back in previous centuries. Very hard and difficult work for sure.

After spending about 1.5hrs up here we started down again. It was much quicker going but those steps were still a challenge. Right: A view looking back.

It was a welcome relief to stop at the café at the half-way point for, in my case, some beer and biscuits.

Interestingly, and I have no photos to show, there were several rather elderly and seemingly infirm (more so than me) people attempting this trek. We passed a few slumped over railings. I was told they would all make it, eventually.

Back down to the base and bus at about 1.00pm and on for lunch at another restaurant in Paro. It had been a most interesting, if tiring, morning.

The rest of the afternoon was again free time spent wandering the town. Not much more to add there from my previous Paro observations. Back to the hotel for supper and filling in various e-docs for the flights home. 

This was our last full day in Bhutan and the flights back home were tomorrow. It had been a most fascinating 2 weeks and fearfully well organised. I have tried to cover our journey accurately and finish this now. 

P.S. I might add an 'addendum' later to summarise the tour and fill in any points which I may have left out and which spring to mind.

"Shu lay log jay gae", in Dzongkha!

AROUND PARO

 2nd May 2026

The Paro Dzong

Onwards west from Punakha to, eventually, Paro. This is where the International airport is located and where we flew into many days ago. Paro is quite a large town with many 'touristy' shops and cafés.

Today is a National Holiday. It is the late 3rd (much admired) King's birthday in 1929 and National Teachers' Day. We started off by calling in at the village of Chimi Lhakhang en-route from Punakha towards Thimphu. It is in a little valley which, for reasons which will become apparent, I called 'Willy Vale'.

We were treated to another long 'legend' concerning this place. It features a 13th century lascivious and randy Tibetan monk called Drukpa Kunley (amongst other names). He fired an arrow from Tibet and fate told him to go to live and preach where it landed. He must have had a powerful bow as the arrow travelled a few hundred miles. He somehow found it next to a house here in which lived a widowed woman. He proceeded to to bed her! Not only her, but many other ladies in the area. His licentious behaviour was not only tolerated but revered as it was proclaimed that he 'enlightened' these women and they would seek his blessing in the form of sexual intercourse. It earned him the title 'The Saint of 5,000 women', and also, less flatteringly, 'The Divine Madman'! I think his behaviour might be frowned upon in my parish. (PS. He is also said to have killed a dog, or two, with his 'substantial' member which explains why there are no dogs in the village).

Left: In any event a temple was erected in a monastery compound on a hill near the village in his honour. We walked up to visit it. Apparently it houses the arrow which he fired. It is called the 'Temple of Fertility'. Perhaps it should have been called 'The Mad Monk's Erection'?

Right: ....and back down to the village of Chimi Lhakhang in the small valley known as the 'Valley of Phalluses'. From the following photos I think you will get the drift! 

Left: So many, if not most, of the houses were decorated like this.

Right:......another example of many. I won't bore you with any more, but I did find it somewhat curious!

Left: A café dedicated to the Mad Monk.

Right: So sorry! A souvenir shop in the village

Onwards again via Lobesa and the 11,200ft Dochula Pass (the place with the 108 stupas we visited previously) where we stopped for a tea break. Then on around Thimphu to Paro. We passed nearby the airport and stopped at another 'Momo' restaurant in town (right) for lunch. I was not too impressed by 'momos'...soft dumplings.

After lunch the plan was to visit a museum and perhaps the Pano Dzong. I asked to be excused as I felt I had seen enough museums and dzongs, so spent the afternoon wandering around the town, which I much enjoyed. I started off in a delightful café/bar with garden.The Book Café if you are ever passing. Then to see the local shops.

An extensively stocked wine shop sold, amongst many well known Western brands, that pleasant Bhutanese red wine 'Vintria' (shown and sampled earlier), plus Bhutanese whisky (right) which I did not try. 

Left: There were some lovely cafés staffed by very pretty and delightful ladies.

Talking of the 'ladies' (and please don't compare me to the 'Mad Monk'), they all tended to be slim, trim, well groomed and well dressed. Right: This photo was taken, I think, at the Ura Festival and gives you some idea.

Left: Local lasses on the street. There was absolutely no sign of the elephantine, tattooed, nose-ringed, face-studded variety so common nowadays wobbling about blocking the pavements in UK.

Indeed, smart appearance and good manners (and a good sense of humour) was noticeable amongst all the locals I met; both those who served us and those only to chat to. Perhaps it is just that they like to look after 'tourists' as tourism is a big source of income here, but I got the impression that they are naturally decent and polite folk. Right: Locals sitting outside a bar. It helps that English (along with Dzongkha) is universally spoken.

Left: ....more locals wearing their smart 'ghos'. Definitely the 'gho-to' form of dress for men.

Right: These clothes shops hiring national dress were common in the larger towns. I did my bit by wearing a gho at Ura.

Left: Children leaving school. Even the schoolchildren dressed smartly. I expect they were all well behaved, were taught well and were enthusiastic learners.

Right: Some sights around town. One of several parks with 'exercise machines'.

Left: A Snooker Hall. I saw several of these but never found one that was actually open. Maybe later in the evening. I was actually looking for a 'Pool' table as I am a staunch member of our local 'Geriatrics Pool Society'. 

Right: Just another pic of a 'normal' private house. As mentioned earlier they are all beautifully decorated with intricate carvings around the windows. Not built by Barratt Homes I expect.

Left: The inevitable souvenir shop (one of many).

Right: So I went in to find a suitable souvenir to take home. Oh dear!

I promise not to show any more of these. You just couldn't avoid them! 

That was it for the day. I was duly picked up at an appointed spot. Apparently the museum the others had gone to visit was closed!

Left: On to our next, and final, residence -  the Olathang Cottages out up another hill to the west of the town for supper and bed. It is a hotel consisting of chalets at the rear and very comfortable (as with all the others!).

The next day we were to embark on what is the journey/hike to the Bhutanese 'Mecca' (or Buddhist equivalent) on the tourist trail. 

All will be revealed.......

JAKAR TO PUNAKHAR

 30th Apr - 1st May 2026

Trongsa Fortress (Dzong)

From Jakar, via the Yotongla Pass (11,300ft), along more forested and mountainous hairpin bends to Trongsa, the capital of Trongsa District, which is smack in the centre of the country. We visited the Trongsa Fortress (a Dzong in Bhutanese), the largest in Bhutan and established as such in the 17th century (1647 I believe) when these fortresses became the outposts to unite and control the country. They house both religious and civil administrative sections and is the seat of power in the district.

Left: We were given a comprehensive tour around the several courtyards and inside the temple of course (no shoes, no photos).

Right: ....Elaborately constructed offices and accommodation.

Left: Plus the omnipresent prayer wheels.

Right: The fortress stands on the bank of the river Mangdi Chuu.

From here we ventured west and then north through the charming town of Wangdue Phodrang and over the Puna Tsang Chu river towards Punakha.

My notes and photos got a bit muddled en-route but we stopped somewhere for lunch (with beer!) and stopped at this impressive chorten (left) which, I think, was built by the 1st King.

Right: This impressive plaque, a Dharma Wheel, was on a wall of the chorten and represents the 'teachings of Buddha'. 

We arrived in Punakha in the early evening and drove to a 'Spa' Hotel called the Zhingkham Resort. It was up a hill to the west of the town and most comfortable with 'chalet' style buildings plus an excellent bar and restaurant. In doing so we passed the nearby Punakha Dzong (left) which sits on the confluence of two large glacial rivers; the Mo Chhu (Female River) and the Pho Chhu (Male River). The Fortress is surrounded by colourful Jacaranda trees.

More about this fortress/dzong later because the next morning we set of on another 'hike'  up and down the hills to the north of the town. It started by crossing the river by another of these swinging and wobbly suspension bridges (right).

Left: These rivers are home to white water rafting. It looked rather fun...but no time (or inclination) on our trip to do it. It is also rather expensive; organised by 'Druk Rafting Service'. But 'no fishing' as explained earlier.

I have little record or memory of where we went but the hike lasted for over 3 hours and at some point we arrived at this stupa (right), the Kamsun Yulley Namgyal Chorten. It was built up on top of a hill on instructions from the Queen Mother (mother of the 4th King) in 2004.

Left: A view over the river from the chorten.

Following lunch at an out-of-town restaurant we returned for a visit to the Punakha Fortress. Right: This photo of it, lit up, was taken the previous evening from my bedroom veranda overlooking the river.

Punakha was the capital of Bhutan until the 3rd King moved it to Thimphu in 1955. Thimphu was growing and had more space for development.

Left: The entrance to the fortress over the bridge with the jacaranda trees prominent. It was built, as were other fortresses, in the 17th century, by the warlord Zhaborung (whose statue sometimes sits on Buddha's left side). It is the second largest in Bhutan. It supposedly houses the relics and remains of Zhaborung which are only 'viewed' only once a year..perhaps.

It is still used as the venue for coronations and Royal weddings etc. The present (5th) King was crowned here in 2008 and married here in 2011.

The compound is again, as per the Trongsa fortress, a combination of administrative and religious sections. Right: This fig tree in a courtyard is a sacred Bodi tree and revered as directly descended from the original tree in India where Buddha attained 'enlightenment'. Maybe.

Left: A view inside the temple. Many more myths, legends, magic, Buddhist beliefs etc. were explained at length by Sonam. There was something about a 'magical dagger' which features highly in the Buddhist faith here. I'm afraid I got rather confused by all these stories.

Right: Sonam posing at a prayer wheel nearby. I can't remember where exactly it was.

Left: Portrait photos of the present Royal Family feature in most of these places. They are genuinely much respected.

Back to the hotel, and then out to a restaurant in town for supper. Can't think why we didn't eat at the hotel which had a perfectly decent restaurant. 

Another busy day to follow tomorrow!