ON THE WAY TO GANGTEY

 24th - 25th Apr 2026

Our route over two weeks from Pano (via towns in yellow) as far east, eventually, as the festival in Ura (180 miles)....and back. 

Before we left Thimphu I discovered that towns in Bhutan do not have any traffic lights. Traffic is controlled, successfully, by rather balletic traffic marshals. I noticed, in general, drivers here are very well behaved! See vid below.

We were off early from Thimphu after breakfast for what was to be a long day's drive east, with several stops en-route, eventually to Gangtey. Our comfortable mini-bus was designed to seat 15 people so the six of us all had window seats to ourselves...best to see over the sheer precipices nerve-tinglingly close to the side of the bus. Sonam at the front had a microphone to keep us all informed. We were to spend a lot of time in this bus.

Left: Passing below the Buddha statue on the way out of town.

The road zig-zagged up the forested valley hillsides (72% of Bhutan is forest) with numerous hairpin bends. In general the valley bottoms were at 7,000ft amsl and rose to cross the passes at over 10,000ft. The roads were mostly asphalt and in excellent condition, but some had stretches of dirt track, especially at the tops, where construction was still underway. It was slow going at times. Our driver, Tensin, coped with all this most admirably.

We first stopped at the Dochula Pass (at 10,100ft) where there is the Druk Wangyal Chortens Memorial site (right). This is a collection of 108 stupas which was built  in 2003-4 to honour the 11 Royal Bhutan Army soldiers who were killed in the 2003 military operation which soundly defeated an Indian insurgency.

Why 108 stupas? Before we go on, some info on 'sacred' Buddhist numbers:

Sacred or holy numbers in Bhutanese Buddhism, which is deeply rooted in Vajrayana and Tibetan traditions, signify aspects of spiritual completion, the Buddha's teachings, and cosmological balance. 

• 108: The most sacred number, representing 108 volumes of the Buddha's teachings (the Kangyur) and the 108 earthly desires/temptations one must overcome to achieve nirvana. Malas (prayer beads) in Bhutan typically have 108 beads, and holy places often use this number for stupas (chortens) or prayer flags, such as at Dochu La Pass.
• 13: Considered highly auspicious, representing the perfection of merit and virtue, often seen in the thirteen stories of structures like the Potala Palace.
• 8: Symbolizes the Noble Eightfold Path (the "Middle Way" to Nirvana) and is represented by the 8 Lucky Symbols (Ashtamangala) commonly seen in art and architecture.
• 7: A number strongly associated with life and death in folk Buddhism, often used to calculate rituals for the dead (e.g., 7 or 49 days).
• 5: Signifies the five sacred elements forming building blocks of the environment (earth, water, fire, air, and sky), represented in the five colors of prayer flags.
• 3: Represents the "Triple Gem" (or Three Jewels) central to Buddhist faith: the Buddha (teacher), the Dharma (teachings), and the Sangha (community).
• 9: Often associated with the 9th day of the month forceremonies and the nine-step path in some meditations.

These numbers are frequently used in daily life, such as in prayer, architecture, and the timing of religious ceremonies.

Left: This sign describes the conflict. Click on to enlarge and read.

There is a café here which was most welcome. Right a pic of the stupas from it.

It had a smoking area outside which, from the look of this photo (left), was very well used!

Right: There is also a temple (Lhakhang) into which we were taken. It is big inside. 'No shoes-No photos' again. Apparently it is Bhutan's newest. It is incredibly elaborately decorated inside with the mandatory large golden Buddha flanked by Guru Rinpoche, the 8th century reincarnation of Buddha born from a lotus flower, and the 17th century iconic ruler Zhabdrung. There were many beautifully and intricately painted murals depicting various Buddhist beliefs of Heaven and Hell and all in between. Sonam spent a long time describing all their meanings.

We then drove on east up and over another pass or two and stopped at a vegetable market for a breather and coffee. There was a shop there and these were on display for sale (left). I think I mentioned phalluses (or is it phalli) in the previous at the museum in Thimphu. They are obviously considered 'must have' items and in demand! I bought and ate two bananas.

....and before I forget, this little (depending on your standard) willy was hanging from the rear view mirror in our minibus! For protection and good luck, so Tensin told me.

Left: A local filling his water can.

Right: We passed this troop of monkeys on the way. Forgotten what kind. Indeed the hills are supposedly home to various exotic creatures. I mentioned 'takins' earlier but there are also supposedly leopards, Bengal tigers, black bears, red pandas, deer and wild boar amongst many smaller creatures. More about those later in these reports.

Left: Rivers. There are many large and small rivers throughout the country. They are 'glacial' and the water is very clear and clean and all look most attractive. They are home to lots of fish, including brown trout. I asked about fishing. Apparently fishing is not allowed anywhere. This is all part of the Buddhist law that you must never kill any living creature. I asked how then did we get fed meat and fish at the hotels. Ahaa, I was told, that comes from India. Indeed many, if not most, Bhutanese are vegetarian.

Finally over the Lawala Pass into the vast Phobjikha Valley and to Gangtey at 5.45pm. To the Dewachen Hotel for a rest and supper. I must say, the bedrooms, food and service in these hotels was impeccable. All bags were always carried for us to our rooms. They look after their guests supremely well. Right: An example of one the bedrooms I stayed in (can't remember which) but they were all of a similar high standard. We also spent some nights in what they call 'HomeStays' which are basically people's private houses which take guests. More about those later.

Overnight there was much rumbling of thunder and flickering lightening, and woken up at 5.00am by a mighty crash of thunder which sounded like a gun going off in the room. The Land of the Thunder Dragon was beginning to live up to its name!

Onwards and upwards tomorrow..........

THE TOUR STARTS IN THIMPHU

 22nd - 23rd Apr 2026

The 'Memorial' chorten (stupa) built in honour of the 3rd King

After a decent buffet lunch after arriving at Thimphu there was no time for hanging around; the Tour commenced. No time for jet lag to set in. We were first driven to a large stupa (a chorten is what they call them here) which was built in honour of the 3rd and much respected King.

Left: In the surrounding courtyard there is a covered building in or around which several elderly people were sitting. We were told that this is a place where the old folk congregate and receive donations from a generous public. 

The building is surrounded by revolvable prayer wheels. Right: Note the beautifully carved and decorated surrounds. This was common on nearly all public and private buildings.

Left: Our indefatigable guide, Sonam, in characteristic 'guiding' pose.

Right: The chorten/stupa is on three floors and houses the normal enormous golden Buddha statue as well as many other exquisite artefacts, decorations and murals. In all these buildings of a religious or semi-religious nature, it was 'shoes off' on entering and 'no photography'. "No shoes = no photos" was the rule everywhere.

Left: I surreptitiously broke the rule (couldn't resist it and hope nobody in authority in Bhutan sees this!) and took this pic of Bhutan warrior on the top floor. Nobody else was around there.

Following this we were taken to the Post Office museum where, apart from the exhibits, there is a post office counter selling cards and stamps. Not any old stamps; you could get them printed with your face on them (mine from passport photo). I duly bought a dozen thus printed, plus postcards. I was assured that these stamps were valid for postage to UK. Having written the cards I posted them at a ropey looking post box (Sunam assured me it was OK) on leaving Thimphu on 24th April. As at the time of writing this (13th May) none have, so far, arrived as far as I am aware. I wish I had taken a photo of them! I live in hope.

Back to hotel for supper, wrote postcards and puffed another cigarette, or two!

The next day (23rd) we were off again after breakfast (another decent buffet which was the norm at all the places we subsequently stayed at). This time to the south of town to visit the Buddha Dordenma statue (right) which overlooks the valley. It is, at 54 metres high, the largest sitting statue of Buddha in the world. It was built at vast cost between 2006 - 2015.

Inside, on three floors, are thousands of elaborate artefacts including over 100,000 miniature Buddhas made from bronze and gilded in gold, plus elaborate wall paintings. Again, "no shoes - no photos". Such a pity as all the many subsequent visits to religious buildings had this rule and consequently I have no photographic record of the sheer extravagance of the interiors. Can't even find any on Google. Sonam explained in very great detail the elaborate meanings behind of all this stuff including many complicated Buddhist fables, legends, magical creatures etc.

Left: Our 'team' outside the statue.

Right: ....and looking down on Thimphu from the statue.

Next up was a 'small' hike through the Kuensel Phodrang National Park which started nearby. The path wended its way up and down the hillside along the west side of the town. It was only about 3 miles (phew) and was a mere 'tester' for some subsequent much longer and arduous hikes. I presume Sonam wanted to check that we were all up to hiking! Left: The start point.

Right: A view down to Thimphu which is an ever-expanding capital 'city'. Many people are moving here from the outlying countryside. 

Left: Along the way we encountered these little 3" high white things lodged in various crevices. They are 'tsa-tsas', little clay pyramids, or stupas, and are sacred votive offerings to bring protection and blessings. They sometimes contain the ashes of deceased 'masters', we were told.

Some of our group were very interested in various flowers which involved several much welcome stops to 'admire' them.

We descended to meet our mini-bus at about 1.15pm and were taken for lunch at a 'Momo' restaurant. Momos are little meat filled dumplings and nothing very remarkable I thought. There was no beer on sale. I could have done with a refreshing pint by now!

Next onwards to the Royal Takin Preserve, a kind of large open air zoo somewhere near the town. Right: You may be able to click on and enlarge this photo to read.

The takin is Bhutan's 'National Animal' and lives predominantly in the mountains in the north of the country.

Left: Rather ugly beast in my opinion; a sort of cross between a goat and an ox. I had never heard of them before. You don't get many from where I come from!

Right: More takins.

Left: The zoo area was large with ponds and forest. It featured other creatures amongst which were some deer. I believe some were here because they were recovering from injury.

Next on the agenda was a visit to the Living History Museum. A building with many rooms and exhibits peculiar to Bhutan.

Left: We were escorted by this charming and colourfully dressed lady. Exhibits included a cookery display and short range archery (archery is Bhutan's national sport) where we could have a shot at a small target; I missed. There were costumes and much else. I remember vividly in one corner there was a man who suffered from serious cerebral palsy. He could not control his movements from the waist up. However he was skilfully using a hammer and chisel held in his feet to make the most intricate and beautiful wood carvings. Most impressive!

Right: Willies on display! The 'phallus' is a common object and sight here. They are revered sacred symbols of fertility, good luck and protection against evil spirits and gossip! They are painted on the sides of some houses and models of various sizes sold in all 'souvenir' shops. They haven't really caught on in UK, but are considered perfectly normal in Bhutan. I bought a few to give as presents to my friends back home. Not sure if they will appreciate them.

Below: Some videos I took at this museum.

Above: A tuneful folk singing duo.

Above: Bhutanese folk dance.

Above: ....and the spectators had a go afterwards.....not very impressively!

Back to the hotel for another decent buffet supper. I discovered that Bhutan makes a very drinkable red wine which I tried enthusiastically. I believe they have vineyards in the south. They also brew a decent 'Druk Lager' and all at much cheaper price than UK! 

That will do for now and we are only at day 2. 

BACKGROUND TO THE LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON.

 22nd April 2026

The Bhutanese flag

The National flag, yellow and orange (it's not called red) with a white dragon holding jewels in its claws. The yellow symbolises the secular authority of the King and civil traditions. The amber the spiritual power of Buddhism. The white dragon (druk) represents the name of Bhutan ("Druk Yul", Land of the Thunder Dragon) and symbolises purity and loyalty. The jewels represent the wealth, security and perfection of the nation. The population of Bhutan numbers about 800,000.

Bhutan, a landlocked mountainous Himalayan country, has a complicated history. It has never been colonised but came about by the various invasions of warlords from Tibet which borders it to the north. It has had (and still does have) mutually beneficial 'dealings' with India and did with the British when they were in that part of the world. It has few dealings with China. It is a staunchly Buddhist country. It became an absolute hereditary monarchy at the beginning of the 20th century and is now a constitutional one. Great respect is shown both to the Buddhist tradition and to the King. The Buddhist religion here stems from a 'legendary' character called Guru Rinpoche who was 'born out of a fiery lotus flower' as a reincarnation of Buddha in the 8th century. There are so many myths, fables, legends, reincarnations, magic etc. concerning this religion I failed to keep up! The monarchy (Kings only please) started in 1907. I will try, probably hopelessly, to summarise the history.

Bhutan (it had several previous names and is now called Druk Yul by the Bhutanese) first became a 'semi-united' autonomous country in the 17th century after an ex-Tibetan lama/warlord called Zhabdrung Namgyal built several fortresses (Dzongs) across the area. He is credited with being the founder...although, due to the mountainous terrain, it contained many communities which never met one another, or if they did it was probably only to fight.

Another warlord, Jigme Namgyal (nicknamed The Black Ruler), who ruled the place in the 19th/early 20th century produced a son whom, after much civil strife, he appointed as the first King and started the Wangchuck dynasty. The capital city, containing the Royal Palace, was originally Punakha, but this was moved by the third King to the present capital of Thimphu which had more space for development ...and it continues to expand and develop.

Left: The first King. Termed 'A Monarch of Destiny'. 1907 - 1926.

Right: The second King. 'The Consolidator'. 1926 - 1952.

Left: The third King. 'The Father of Modern Bhutan'. 1952 - 1972. A greatly respected monarch who, with many technical, building and cultural initiatives, brought the country kicking and screaming into the 20th century.

Right: The fourth King. 'Propounder of Gross National Happiness'. 1972 - 2006 when he abdicated and established the present constitutional monarchy. He is still alive and holds influential jobs in the Government. His son became King. This philosophy of 'Gross National Happiness' is considered more important than 'Gross Domestic Product'....and they are proud of it.

Left: The fifth, and present, King. 2006 - onwards. 'The People's King'. Another much respected monarch.

Click on to enlarge these photos to read the plaques.

Above: There are 20 'provinces' in the country, and due to their mountainous and semi-impassable separation from one another developed their own languages....and still use them. In fact, I was told, there are 19 different languages/dialects. However there are two common languages spoken by all, namely Dzongkha and English!

To further enhance these provinces' isolation there were no 'motorable' roads between them, or anywhere else, until 1961. Transport was, up until then, restricted to mule, pony, yak or on foot. There are now several good asphalt roads which zig-zag, with hairpin bends, up and along the steep valley sides to surmount the high passes, although some at the tops are still dirt tracks in the process of being completed. Being driven up or down these roads in our mini-bus was a slow and somewhat unnerving experience. On the outer side of the bus the wheels were often only about 3 feet away from sheer vertical 1000ft+ drops down to the valley floor. Viewing that from a window seat was quite alarming and not good for those who have a fear of heights (acrophobia). Our driver, Tensin, negotiated these arduous and perilous routes over many hours of flawless driving (otherwise I would not be here to write this!) PS. They drive on the left side of the road here, as per India.

There are extraordinary and amusing road signs along the larger lower 'highways' in the valleys, all written in English. As below. The Bhutanese have a good sense of humour!

Signage:

• "No Hurry, No Worry"
• "Be Gentle on My Bends"
• "Going Faster Will See Disaster"
• "On the Bend, Go Slow Friend"
• "Life is a Journey, Complete It"
• "Time is Money, But Life is Precious"
• "Don’t Hurry, Be Cool, Since Heaven is Already Full"
• "After Whiskey, Driving Risky"
• "Drinking Whiskey Driving Risky"
• "Let Thy Horn Be Gentle"
• "Speed Thrills But Kills"
• "Safety is Price Less, So Be Careful"
• "Better Be Late Than Never"
• "Don't Be A Foodie On Road"
• "Kiss Her Goodnight, But Not While Driving"

Right: Throughout the countryside between trees and along stretches of paths, roads and rivers Buddhist prayer flags are hung, seemingly at random, in abundance. They have 'mantras' written on them in tiny Tibetan script.

Yellow flag for 'earth', green for 'water', blue for 'sky', red for 'fire' and white for 'air'.

That will do for now as a background 'starter' for our impending travels. These were to be far ranging and I suffered from serious 'information overload' at all the various places we visited (many fortresses, stupas, temples, museums etc.) as well as some long and quite exhausting hikes up and down vertiginous high altitude countryside.

To be continued.....at length I'm afraid.