The temple in the courtyard of the Gangtey Monastery
After a lack of sleep due to the thunderstorm and another decent breakfast at the Hotel Dewachen we were taken to the Gangtey Monastery. This 15th century monastery is the largest in Bhutan and host to the biggest festival in Bhutan held on 11th November. It is inhabited by about 80 monks from the age of 6yrs old upwards. These monasteries are where they get their education and is a fairly brutal and spartan life with physical punishments if they don't learn their 'religious' prayers in a timely manner!
Left: As with all such establishments (and even private homes) it boasts amazingly elaborate carved decoration. I never discovered how they did it.
Right: The monk's very basic (4 to a room) quarters on two levels. The child monks are not allowed to go home and are separated from their parents for the period of their education. They don't have to stay being a monk in later years if they don't want to.
Left: Rotating prayer wheels down the side of the temple.
Right: As with our visits to other 'religious' buildings it was again 'no shoes - no photos' inside the temple. Again, there were highly elaborate statues, decorations artefacts, murals, candles etc. on display. Sonam explained in great detail all the confusing myths and legends that go with them. Right: Child monks clearing weeds from the courtyard.
After this is it was off on another 'hike' around the Phobjika valley. This was considerably longer than the previous and we walked for about 4 hours up and down some muddy tracks. We are 'in training' for some more arduous treks I feel.
One of our group, Dave, lugged this large camera around on all these walks. Most cumbersome I would have thought. We stopped occasionally when someone spotted a bird or flower of interest. Sonam was an expert on the local flora and fauna, as were a couple of those in the group, and the stops involved Dave taking a long time to conscientiously focus with a 3 foot long lens on a sparrow sized bird in a distant tree to get a good photo. I must confess that I am not that interested to learn that the tiny bird just visible in a tree is a 'yellow spotted oomegooly warbler', or whatever. I subscribe to the 'Geordie Book of Bords (birds)' which maintains that there are only four types of bird, namely: 'Spuggies' (sparrows) which are all little birds, 'Craas' (crows) which are all the black larger ones, Seagulls (self-explanatory) and 'Shitehawks' which covers all the rest. Simple.
Left: A view of the large glacial Phobjika valley.
Right: Sonam posing at a viewpoint. So far, we have seen no sign of any of the larger exotic four legged animals mentioned in the previous blog, although there were signs of trees scraped by wild boars, apparently.
Left: A photo of a hovering 'shitehawk' taken with my puny phone camera.
Right: More prayer flags en-route which show the 'mantras' written on them.
Left: ....and these were some of the other types of prayer flags. Prayer flags everywhere!
Right: An 'interesting' flower?
Left: We stopped at an isolated and basic looking farmhouse (and even that had elaborate decorations around the windows) where we were, surprisingly, invited in. There were raggy looking cows in the back yard. It was inhabited by two elderly ladies (sisters). They generously brewed us some tea and were maybe glad of the company!
As I discovered it is the custom in people's homes also to offer a small glass of Bhutan saki (brewed from wheat) either before or after meals, or both. It tastes fine and is probably very alcoholic. It is also the case that in all these houses, and indeed when sitting in a temple, that there are no chairs! One is obliged to sit on the floor where there might by a rug or, if lucky, a cushion. My joints are beginning to creak and it is not very comfortable.
Left: There was a welcome shack at the end.
Right: ...and another stupa/chorten nearby.
Left: Next on to lunch at another 'homestay' where we were given a generous meal of rice and much else on a self serve basis, plus the mandatory saki. Perhaps that is why they sit on the floor? A feature on all these buffet selections is the infamous Bhutan 'Chilli Cheese'. I tried it...once. Nearly blew my head off!
Below: It was in a room to the side of this house that we witnessed these two monks 'chanting mantras' non-stop. Apparently they stay here for 40 days and nights doing this and have a large stack of 'mantras' to get through. I'm not sure what their hours of 'work' are, but presumably they must sleep at some point. Quite extraordinary! I wonder what they do in their spare time. Karaoke?
We were not done for the day by any means. The next venue (left) was the 'Black Necked Crane Education Centre'. This bird is somewhat endangered and much protected in Bhutan. In the old days they were shot for food. If you did that here now you could expect a lengthy jail sentence. They spend the summer in Tibet and emigrate to the Probjika Valley for the winter where, on average, about 500 arrive. They had all returned to Tibet by this time of year.
We were treated to a documentary film about them and, to be frank, I was rather sleepy by now (too much saki?) and missed some of it. Right: They keep an elderly couple of the birds in a 'sanctuary' after they were injured and rescued. I think one of them is missing a leg.
Back to the hotel briefly and then, at 6.30pm, we were off again to the Gangtey Shedra, which is a Buddhist monastic college near the Gangtey Monastery. Left: Here the monks (the Shedra is home to approximately 300 of them who study Bhutan's 'living spiritual heritage') ranging in age from 10yrs old upwards, gather for evening prayer rituals complete with rhythmic chanting plus horns and drum accompaniment. Left: In what was a unique concession, we were allowed to use cameras in here! We were again sitting on the floor. The chanting monks had cushions to sit on and the chief monk was seated in a throne-like chair. Lucky them.
Below: Part of the prayer meeting. We left to go back for supper at 8.00pm.
Coincidently, at the time of writing this (16th May) I discovered that some of the postcards I posted in Thimphu on 24th April had actually arrived in UK! These were the ones with my ugly personalised stamp on them. The ones that had arrived had 50 Nu stamps on them (about 40p UK). The others had stamps ranging from 30 to 40 Nu....I was told at the Thimphu post-office that those should be OK. We shall see......In any event it is cheaper (and knowing our postal delivery service just as quick) to send a postcard to UK from Bhutan than to send one internally here! A good place to go to send all your Christmas cards perhaps.
Left: 'Butter lamps' which are commonly displayed and used at various religious ceremonies and blessings in the temples. They are candles floating in and fuelled by yak butter or vegetable oil. They have, in the past, been the cause of several monasteries and temples burning down. I believe these places have now invested heavily in fire extinguishers.
Phew! This series of 'blogs' is going to keep me going for some time yet.....we are only up to Day 4 of the 14 day tour!
Our route over two weeks from Pano (via towns in yellow) as far east, eventually, as the festival in Ura (180 miles)....and back.
Before we left Thimphu I discovered that towns in Bhutan do not have any traffic lights. Traffic is controlled, successfully, by rather balletic traffic marshals. I noticed, in general, drivers here are very well behaved! See vid below.
We were off early from Thimphu after breakfast for what was to be a long day's drive east, with several stops en-route, eventually to Gangtey. Our comfortable mini-bus was designed to seat 15 people so the six of us all had window seats to ourselves...best to see over the sheer precipices nerve-tinglingly close to the side of the bus. Sonam at the front had a microphone to keep us all informed. We were to spend a lot of time in this bus.
Left: Passing below the Buddha statue on the way out of town.
The road zig-zagged up the forested valley hillsides (72% of Bhutan is forest) with numerous hairpin bends. In general the valley bottoms were at 7,000ft amsl and rose to cross the passes at over 10,000ft. The roads were mostly asphalt and in excellent condition, but some had stretches of dirt track, especially at the tops, where construction was still underway. It was slow going at times. Our driver, Tensin, coped with all this most admirably.
We first stopped at the Dochula Pass (at 10,100ft) where there is the Druk Wangyal Chortens Memorial site (right). This is a collection of 108 stupas which was built in 2003-4 to honour the 11 Royal Bhutan Army soldiers who were killed in the 2003 military operation which soundly defeated an Indian insurgency.
Why 108 stupas? Before we go on, some info on 'sacred' Buddhist numbers:
Sacred or holy numbers in Bhutanese Buddhism, which is deeply rooted in Vajrayana and Tibetan traditions, signify aspects of spiritual completion, the Buddha's teachings, and cosmological balance.
108: The most sacred number, representing 108 volumes of the Buddha's teachings (the Kangyur) and the 108 earthly desires/temptations one must overcome to achieve nirvana. Malas (prayer beads) in Bhutan typically have 108 beads, and holy places often use this number for stupas (chortens) or prayer flags, such as at Dochu La Pass.
13: Considered highly auspicious, representing the perfection of merit and virtue, often seen in the thirteen stories of structures like the Potala Palace.
8: Symbolizes the Noble Eightfold Path (the "Middle Way" to Nirvana) and is represented by the 8 Lucky Symbols (Ashtamangala) commonly seen in art and architecture.
7: A number strongly associated with life and death in folk Buddhism, often used to calculate rituals for the dead (e.g., 7 or 49 days).
5: Signifies the five sacred elements forming building blocks of the environment (earth, water, fire, air, and sky), represented in the five colors of prayer flags.
3: Represents the "Triple Gem" (or Three Jewels) central to Buddhist faith: the Buddha (teacher), the Dharma (teachings), and the Sangha (community).
9: Often associated with the 9th day of the month forceremonies and the nine-step path in some meditations.
These numbers are frequently used in daily life, such as in prayer, architecture, and the timing of religious ceremonies.
Left: This sign describes the conflict. Click on to enlarge and read.
It had a smoking area outside which, from the look of this photo (left), was very well used!
Right: There is also a temple (Lhakhang) into which we were taken. It is big inside. 'No shoes-No photos' again. Apparently it is Bhutan's newest. It is incredibly elaborately decorated inside with the mandatory large golden Buddha flanked by Guru Rinpoche, the 8th century reincarnation of Buddha born from a lotus flower, and the 17th century iconic ruler Zhabdrung. There were many beautifully and intricately painted murals depicting various Buddhist beliefs of Heaven and Hell and all in between. Sonam spent a long time describing all their meanings.
We then drove on east up and over another pass or two and stopped at a vegetable market for a breather and coffee. There was a shop there and these were on display for sale (left). I think I mentioned phalluses (or is it phalli) in the previous at the museum in Thimphu. They are obviously considered 'must have' items and in demand! I bought and ate two bananas.
....and before I forget, this little (depending on your standard) willy was hanging from the rear view mirror in our minibus! For protection and good luck, so Tensin told me.
Left: A local filling his water can.
Right: We passed this troop of monkeys on the way. Forgotten what kind. Indeed the hills are supposedly home to various exotic creatures. I mentioned 'takins' earlier but there are also supposedly leopards, Bengal tigers, black bears, red pandas, deer and wild boar amongst many smaller creatures. More about those later in these reports.
Left: Rivers. There are many large and small rivers throughout the country. They are 'glacial' and the water is very clear and clean and all look most attractive. They are home to lots of fish, including brown trout. I asked about fishing. Apparently fishing is not allowed anywhere. This is all part of the Buddhist law that you must never kill any living creature. I asked how then did we get fed meat and fish at the hotels. Ahaa, I was told, that comes from India. Indeed many, if not most, Bhutanese are vegetarian.
Finally over the Lawala Pass into the vast Phobjikha Valley and to Gangtey at 5.45pm. To the Dewachen Hotel for a rest and supper. I must say, the bedrooms, food and service in these hotels was impeccable. All bags were always carried for us to our rooms. They look after their guests supremely well. Right: An example of one the bedrooms I stayed in (can't remember which) but they were all of a similar high standard. We also spent some nights in what they call 'HomeStays' which are basically people's private houses which take guests. More about those later.
Overnight there was much rumbling of thunder and flickering lightening, and woken up at 5.00am by a mighty crash of thunder which sounded like a gun going off in the room. The Land of the Thunder Dragon was beginning to live up to its name!
The 'Memorial' chorten (stupa) built in honour of the 3rd King
After a decent buffet lunch after arriving at Thimphu there was no time for hanging around; the Tour commenced. No time for jet lag to set in. We were first driven to a large stupa (a chorten is what they call them here) which was built in honour of the 3rd and much respected King.
Left: In the surrounding courtyard there is a covered building in or around which several elderly people were sitting. We were told that this is a place where the old folk congregate and receive donations from a generous public.
The building is surrounded by revolvable prayer wheels. Right: Note the beautifully carved and decorated surrounds. This was common on nearly all public and private buildings.
Left: Our indefatigable guide, Sonam, in characteristic 'guiding' pose.
Right: The chorten/stupa is on three floors and houses the normal enormous golden Buddha statue as well as many other exquisite artefacts, decorations and murals. In all these buildings of a religious or semi-religious nature, it was 'shoes off' on entering and 'no photography'. "No shoes = no photos" was the rule everywhere.
Left: I surreptitiously broke the rule (couldn't resist it and hope nobody in authority in Bhutan sees this!) and took this pic of Bhutan warrior on the top floor. Nobody else was around there.
Following this we were taken to the Post Office museum where, apart from the exhibits, there is a post office counter selling cards and stamps. Not any old stamps; you could get them printed with your face on them (mine from passport photo). I duly bought a dozen thus printed, plus postcards. I was assured that these stamps were valid for postage to UK. Having written the cards I posted them at a ropey looking post box (Sunam assured me it was OK) on leaving Thimphu on 24th April. As at the time of writing this (13th May) none have, so far, arrived as far as I am aware. I wish I had taken a photo of them! I live in hope.
Back to hotel for supper, wrote postcards and puffed another cigarette, or two!
The next day (23rd) we were off again after breakfast (another decent buffet which was the norm at all the places we subsequently stayed at). This time to the south of town to visit the Buddha Dordenma statue (right) which overlooks the valley. It is, at 54 metres high, the largest sitting statue of Buddha in the world. It was built at vast cost between 2006 - 2015.
Inside, on three floors, are thousands of elaborate artefacts including over 100,000 miniature Buddhas made from bronze and gilded in gold, plus elaborate wall paintings. Again, "no shoes - no photos". Such a pity as all the many subsequent visits to religious buildings had this rule and consequently I have no photographic record of the sheer extravagance of the interiors. Can't even find any on Google. Sonam explained in very great detail the elaborate meanings behind of all this stuff including many complicated Buddhist fables, legends, magical creatures etc.
Left: Our 'team' outside the statue.
Right: ....and looking down on Thimphu from the statue.
Next up was a 'small' hike through the Kuensel Phodrang National Park which started nearby. The path wended its way up and down the hillside along the west side of the town. It was only about 3 miles (phew) and was a mere 'tester' for some subsequent much longer and arduous hikes. I presume Sonam wanted to check that we were all up to hiking! Left: The start point.
Right: A view down to Thimphu which is an ever-expanding capital 'city'. Many people are moving here from the outlying countryside.
Left: Along the way we encountered these little 3" high white things lodged in various crevices. They are 'tsa-tsas', little clay pyramids, or stupas, and are sacred votive offerings to bring protection and blessings. They sometimes contain the ashes of deceased 'masters', we were told.
Some of our group were very interested in various flowers which involved several much welcome stops to 'admire' them.
We descended to meet our mini-bus at about 1.15pm and were taken for lunch at a 'Momo' restaurant. Momos are little meat filled dumplings and nothing very remarkable I thought. There was no beer on sale. I could have done with a refreshing pint by now!
Next onwards to the Royal Takin Preserve, a kind of large open air zoo somewhere near the town. Right: You may be able to click on and enlarge this photo to read.
The takin is Bhutan's 'National Animal' and lives predominantly in the mountains in the north of the country.
Left: Rather ugly beast in my opinion; a sort of cross between a goat and an ox. I had never heard of them before. You don't get many from where I come from!
Right: More takins.
Left: The zoo area was large with ponds and forest. It featured other creatures amongst which were some deer. I believe some were here because they were recovering from injury.
Next on the agenda was a visit to the Living History Museum. A building with many rooms and exhibits peculiar to Bhutan.
Left: We were escorted by this charming and colourfully dressed lady. Exhibits included a cookery display and short range archery (archery is Bhutan's national sport) where we could have a shot at a small target; I missed. There were costumes and much else. I remember vividly in one corner there was a man who suffered from serious cerebral palsy. He could not control his movements from the waist up. However he was skilfully using a hammer and chisel held in his feet to make the most intricate and beautiful wood carvings. Most impressive!
Right: Willies on display! The 'phallus' is a common object and sight here. They are revered sacred symbols of fertility, good luck and protection against evil spirits and gossip! They are painted on the sides of some houses and models of various sizes sold in all 'souvenir' shops. They haven't really caught on in UK, but are considered perfectly normal in Bhutan. I bought a few to give as presents to my friends back home. Not sure if they will appreciate them.
Below: Some videos I took at this museum.
Above: A tuneful folk singing duo.
Above: Bhutanese folk dance.
Above: ....and the spectators had a go afterwards.....not very impressively!
Back to the hotel for another decent buffet supper. I discovered that Bhutan makes a very drinkable red wine which I tried enthusiastically. I believe they have vineyards in the south. They also brew a decent 'Druk Lager' and all at much cheaper price than UK!
