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The Paro Dzong
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Onwards west from Punakha to, eventually, Paro. This is where the International airport is located and where we flew into many days ago. Paro is quite a large town with many 'touristy' shops and cafés.
Today is a National Holiday. It is the late 3rd (much admired) King's birthday in 1929 and National Teachers' Day. We started off by calling in at the village of Chimi Lhakhang en-route from Punakha towards Thimphu. It is in a little valley which, for reasons which will become apparent, I called 'Willy Vale'.
We were treated to another long 'legend' concerning this place. It features a 13th century lascivious and randy Tibetan monk called Drukpa Kunley (amongst other names). He fired an arrow from Tibet and fate told him to go to live and preach where it landed. He must have had a powerful bow as the arrow travelled a few hundred miles. He somehow found it next to a house here in which lived a widowed woman. He proceeded to to bed her! Not only her, but many other ladies in the area. His licentious behaviour was not only tolerated but revered as it was proclaimed that he 'enlightened' these women and they would seek his blessing in the form of sexual intercourse. It earned him the title 'The Saint of 5,000 women', and also, less flatteringly, 'The Divine Madman'! I think his behaviour might be frowned upon in my parish. (PS. He is also said to have killed a dog, or two, with his 'substantial' member which explains why there are no dogs in the village).
Left: In any event a temple was erected in a monastery compound on a hill near the village in his honour. We walked up to visit it. Apparently it houses the arrow which he fired. It is called the 'Temple of Fertility'. Perhaps it should have been called 'The Mad Monk's Erection'?
Right: ....and back down to the village of Chimi Lhakhang in the small valley known as the 'Valley of Phalluses'. From the following photos I think you will get the drift!
Left: So many, if not most, of the houses were decorated like this.
Right:......another example of many. I won't bore you with any more, but I did find it somewhat curious!
Left: A café dedicated to the Mad Monk.
Right: So sorry! A souvenir shop in the village
Onwards again via Lobesa and the 11,200ft Dochula Pass (the place with the 108 stupas we visited previously) where we stopped for a tea break. Then on around Thimphu to Paro. We passed nearby the airport and stopped at another 'Momo' restaurant in town (right) for lunch. I was not too impressed by 'momos'...soft dumplings.
After lunch the plan was to visit a museum and perhaps the Pano Dzong. I asked to be excused as I felt I had seen enough museums and dzongs, so spent the afternoon wandering around the town, which I much enjoyed. I started off in a delightful café/bar with garden.The Book Café if you are ever passing. Then to see the local shops.
An extensively stocked wine shop sold, amongst many well known Western brands, that pleasant Bhutanese red wine 'Vintria' (shown and sampled earlier), plus Bhutanese whisky (right) which I did not try.
Left: There were some lovely cafés staffed by very pretty and delightful ladies.
Talking of the 'ladies' (and
please don't compare me to the 'Mad Monk'), they all tended to be slim, trim, well groomed and well dressed. Right: This photo was taken, I think, at the Ura Festival and gives you some idea.
Left: Local lasses on the street. There was absolutely no sign of the elephantine, tattooed, nose-ringed, face-studded variety so common nowadays wobbling about blocking the pavements in UK.
Indeed, smart appearance and good manners (and a good sense of humour) was noticeable amongst all the locals I met; both those who served us and those only to chat to. Perhaps it is just that they like to look after 'tourists' as tourism is a big source of income here, but I got the impression that they are naturally decent and polite folk. Right: Locals sitting outside a bar. It helps that English (along with Dzongkha) is universally spoken.
Left: ....more locals wearing their smart 'ghos'. Definitely the 'gho-to' form of dress for men.
Right: These clothes shops hiring national dress were common in the larger towns. I did my bit by wearing a gho at Ura.
Left: Children leaving school. Even the schoolchildren dressed smartly. I expect they were all well behaved, were taught well and were enthusiastic learners.
Right: Some sights around town. One of several parks with 'exercise machines'.
Left: A Snooker Hall. I saw several of these but never found one that was actually open. Maybe later in the evening. I was actually looking for a 'Pool' table as I am a staunch member of our local 'Geriatrics Pool Society'.
Right: Just another pic of a 'normal' private house. As mentioned earlier they are all beautifully decorated with intricate carvings around the windows. Not built by Barratt Homes I expect.
Left: The inevitable souvenir shop (one of many).
Right: So I went in to find a suitable souvenir to take home. Oh dear!
I promise not to show any more of these. You just couldn't avoid them!
That was it for the day. I was duly picked up at an appointed spot. Apparently the museum the others had gone to visit was closed!
Left: On to our next, and final, residence - the Olathang Cottages out up another hill to the west of the town for supper and bed. It is a hotel consisting of chalets at the rear and very comfortable (as with all the others!).
The next day we were to embark on what is the journey/hike to the Bhutanese 'Mecca' (or Buddhist equivalent) on the tourist trail.
All will be revealed.......
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