CLIMB TO THOWADRA MONASTERY

28th Apr 2026

Thowadra Monastery

An early start for another hike, again in the Tang valley. Our minibus took us to the end of a valley road, near the town of Chamkaa. The aim was to climb up to the very sacred Thowadra monastery, a pilgrimage site, which stands isolated on the top of a cliff at 11,200ft. This monastery was constructed around the year 1238 and is another site where the legendary 8th century Guru Pinoche (him again) did some more meditating and left some relics behind. It is also home to a small community of hardy monks and their families.

Before we set off we were each given a roll of 10 coloured prayer flags and encouraged to write the name of those to whom you wished 'blessings and good fortune' on each flag. I struggled to find my 10 names! These were to be hung up at the monastery.

We started by crossing this river (left), and it was to be a rather more strenuous climb and trek than we had experienced previously. They were just the 'warmers'! At these altitudes some people experience problems, we were told. I don't think any of us suffered too badly, but it did mean you were (or at least I was) short of breath when walking. 

It was a long, slow and tiring climb up and occasionally down some steep rocky slopes with sometimes rudimentary steps along narrow pathways with often vertiginous drops over the side. Right: This photo gives you some idea of the terrain we negotiated. As usual Sonam led the way and Tensin helped those who fell behind, and a couple sometimes did. Sonam and Tensin seemed indefatigable, but then they were used to the altitude.

Left: There were a few 'pit stops' en-route and we took frequent rests to collect together and recover our breath.

Right: A chorten en-route and we did meet a few other trekkers on the way.

Left: The monastery, half hidden, came into sight after what had already been a very long and tiring climb. It looked ominously steep going from now onwards! Unfortunately my photographic skills failed to capture the severity of it.

Right: Getting closer.

Anyway, we all made it in one piece and had a tour around the monastery and temple building (mostly hidden in the trees). There was also a most welcome café. The climb had taken us about 3.5 hours. We witnessed a 'ceremony' in the temple. At some point we were introduced to a senior priest who gave us a taper to each light a butter lamp in prayer, or something. We also met a monk who had, with his family (he had a very young daughter), lived up here for over two years. It seemed an amazing logistical feat just to get all the necessary stores and food up to this place. I believe it is all done on foot with the occasional help by a sure-footed pony. 

Left: We duly hung our 'signed' prayer flags around the perimeter of a viewing gallery. 

Right: A view down from the top.

Left: ....and another.

Right: The going back down was much quicker but no less perilous with some slippery and crumbling steps.

Left: There is a chorten at the bottom around which we assembled. There was much thunder and lightening in the distance and the sky was ominously clouding over.

Despite this, our generous host at the Homestay had driven out to set up an impressive picnic/BBQ for us. We made the most of it but the bad weather had caught up. Right: We ate our meal amidst much thunder with accompanying hailstorm!

We got back to the Homestay at about 4.30pm and definitely needed a rest before supper and bed!

I'll finish this now as the next day we had a very busy schedule .........