INTO THE TANG VALLEY

27th Apr 2026 

Mountain view to the north of Bhutan

The mountain Gangkhar Peunsum is the highest mountain in Bhutan. It is on the border with Tibet and stands at 24,836 ft. It is the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Four failed attempts were made in 1985/86. Subsequently Bhutan put a ban on all mountaineering on 'spiritual' grounds. Or maybe because they just don't want the hassle of rescuing stranded mountaineers! It will, as things stand, remain unclimbed.

On Monday morning we set off on another hike starting by crossing the Chamkhar Chhu river somewhere in the north of the Tang valley. These 'hikes' are getting longer and more arduous. This one covered, at a guess, about 6 miles over some steep up and downhill tracks and took about 4 hours.

Left: These flimsy looking swaying suspension bridges were a common means of crossing the rivers.

Right: Rhododendrons, amongst other flowering trees and shrubs, feature largely on the hillsides. There were large areas of them in the distance.

Left: We kept stopping when someone spotted a bird in a tree. Kingfishers were common down by the rivers.

Right: .....and Dave spent some time focusing his long lens on the 'tufted thingummy tit'. or whatever it was, hiding in a tree 50 yards away.

Still no sign of the reputed snow leopards, tigers, red pandas, deer or wild boar etc. or any other four legged wild creatures for that matter (I think someone saw a squirrel). Maybe they live higher up and/or avoid humans.

Left: There were some good views down to the valley below.

Right: ....and another.

The going included some steep climbs and descents up and down often very narrow tracks. I failed to get a photo to show this as it was exhausting enough just trying to keep up! I seemed to manage OK but one or two of the others were beginning to struggle at times. Sonam always led the way and Tensin brought up the stragglers in the rear.

Right: : Having a breather in a sheltered spot. The weather had been warmish today and no rain. So far.

Left: We ended up at about 1.15pm at a Nunnery (female monastery). Similar build to the others. Left: The entrance to the temple here.

There were no nuns present (or they were hiding). 

Right: The courtyard at the nunnery featuring the absent nuns. None! Out shopping perhaps?

Left: Then on with a quick drive to the nearby Ogyen Chuling Palace. This privately owned manor, farm buildings and museum originate from the 14th century and the present buildings and homestead from 1898. We had a decent lunch in the farmhouse.

The museum is on four floors. We were given a comprehensive briefing on it by the lady proprietress....too comprehensive perhaps. The stairs between the floors were almost vertical very old (18th century?) ladders. They would certainly fall foul of all the 'elf 'n safety' regulations in UK. The many museum exhibits featured all areas of mainly 18th/19th century life. They included domestic appliances, agricultural equipment, weapons, musical instruments etc.etc. Right: Some domestic stuff.

Left: Some long horns. Similar instruments feature in the noise played in the temples.

Right: A notice explains the horns.

Left: There were many such 'notices'. This one explains the significance of mythical serpents and water spirits. Throughout this country and the Buddhist religion in general there is a plethora of weird and wonderful myths, fables and legends concerning odd creatures (and people). To be honest, I rather lost track!

Right: A 'black faced' clown on display (with another willy). I believe these black faces, masks, can also depict 'wrathful deities'. Masks and costumes feature largely in meaningful ceremonies and dances.

That was all for the day. We were then taken to a Homestay somewhere in the area (I was rather lost by now) which was to be our home for the next two nights. The Homestay is basically a private farmhouse where they provide bedrooms and a dining/sitting room. Some bedrooms had shared bathrooms. For some reason I had the luxury of a double 'en-suite' room to myself. Our hosts prepared good buffet meals and were most charming and helpful. As per most days we all assembled before supper for a briefing by Sonam on the next day's activities and program.

.....and we are not even halfway through this tour!