JAKAR TO PUNAKHAR

 30th Apr - 1st May 2026

Trongsa Fortress (Dzong)

From Jakar, via the Yotongla Pass (11,300ft), along more forested and mountainous hairpin bends to Trongsa, the capital of Trongsa District, which is smack in the centre of the country. We visited the Trongsa Fortress (a Dzong in Bhutanese), the largest in Bhutan and established as such in the 17th century (1647 I believe) when these fortresses became the outposts to unite and control the country. They house both religious and civil administrative sections and is the seat of power in the district.

Left: We were given a comprehensive tour around the several courtyards and inside the temple of course (no shoes, no photos).

Right: ....Elaborately constructed offices and accommodation.

Left: Plus the omnipresent prayer wheels.

Right: The fortress stands on the bank of the river Mangdi Chuu.

From here we ventured west and then north through the charming town of Wangdue Phodrang and over the Puna Tsang Chu river towards Punakha.

My notes and photos got a bit muddled en-route but we stopped somewhere for lunch (with beer!) and stopped at this impressive chorten (left) which, I think, was built by the 1st King.

Right: This impressive plaque, a Dharma Wheel, was on a wall of the chorten and represents the 'teachings of Buddha'. 

We arrived in Punakha in the early evening and drove to a 'Spa' Hotel called the Zhingkham Resort. It was up a hill to the west of the town and most comfortable with 'chalet' style buildings plus an excellent bar and restaurant. In doing so we passed the nearby Punakha Dzong (left) which sits on the confluence of two large glacial rivers; the Mo Chhu (Female River) and the Pho Chhu (Male River). The Fortress is surrounded by colourful Jacaranda trees.

More about this fortress/dzong later because the next morning we set of on another 'hike'  up and down the hills to the north of the town. It started by crossing the river by another of these swinging and wobbly suspension bridges (right).

Left: These rivers are home to white water rafting. It looked rather fun...but no time (or inclination) on our trip to do it. It is also rather expensive; organised by 'Druk Rafting Service'. But 'no fishing' as explained earlier.

I have little record or memory of where we went but the hike lasted for over 3 hours and at some point we arrived at this stupa (right), the Kamsun Yulley Namgyal Chorten. It was built up on top of a hill on instructions from the Queen Mother (mother of the 4th King) in 2004.

Left: A view over the river from the chorten.

Following lunch at an out-of-town restaurant we returned for a visit to the Punakha Fortress. Right: This photo of it, lit up, was taken the previous evening from my bedroom veranda overlooking the river.

Punakha was the capital of Bhutan until the 3rd King moved it to Thimphu in 1955. Thimphu was growing and had more space for development.

Left: The entrance to the fortress over the bridge with the jacaranda trees prominent. It was built, as were other fortresses, in the 17th century, by the warlord Zhaborung (whose statue sometimes sits on Buddha's left side). It is the second largest in Bhutan. It supposedly houses the relics and remains of Zhaborung which are only 'viewed' only once a year..perhaps.

It is still used as the venue for coronations and Royal weddings etc. The present (5th) King was crowned here in 2008 and married here in 2011.

The compound is again, as per the Trongsa fortress, a combination of administrative and religious sections. Right: This fig tree in a courtyard is a sacred Bodi tree and revered as directly descended from the original tree in India where Buddha attained 'enlightenment'. Maybe.

Left: A view inside the temple. Many more myths, legends, magic, Buddhist beliefs etc. were explained at length by Sonam. There was something about a 'magical dagger' which features highly in the Buddhist faith here. I'm afraid I got rather confused by all these stories.

Right: Sonam posing at a prayer wheel nearby. I can't remember where exactly it was.

Left: Portrait photos of the present Royal Family feature in most of these places. They are genuinely much respected.

Back to the hotel, and then out to a restaurant in town for supper. Can't think why we didn't eat at the hotel which had a perfectly decent restaurant. 

Another busy day to follow tomorrow!