THE TIGER'S NEST

3rd May 2026

The Tiger's Nest Monastery

It was an early (6.30am) start this morning for our visit to the most iconic landmark in Bhutan; the Tiger's Nest monastery which clings to a sheer granite cliff at 10,250ft amsl.

The story behind it starts with, yet again, that legendary figure (Buddha reincarnated) Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century. He reputedly flew on the back of a winged tigress to a cave at this spot where he spent 3 years, 3 months and 3 days in deep meditation. What?! He must have had a hell of a lot to meditate on and must have got rather bored at times. Not even a TV in those days. A black ritual dagger also miraculously flew into this cave after subduing 'malevolent' entities elsewhere. The tigress was a transformation of his 'consort and disciple' Yeshe Tsogyal who, apparently, retransformed and stayed in another cave nearby.

Anyway, a monastery and temple were built here in 1692 by a local military leader. It burnt down in 1998 (maybe those butter lamps were again responsible) and was rebuilt at vast cost and effort by 2005. It is a well visited pilgrimage, and tourist, site.

The journey from our hotel to the 'base camp' in the Pano Valley was only about 10 miles and we arrived to start the 'trek' at just after 7.00am.

Left: Looking up towards the Tiger's Nest from the base area. It is that little white dot at the tip of the umbrella. A formidable trek and climb was in front of us.

Right: Assembled at the base were many saddled-up ponies. There were many more 'tourist trekkers' around here which for some reason my photos don't show. As mentioned it is a very popular tourist venue.....and was today.

Left. These hardy steeds were, presumably, hired by those who were willing and capable of riding them. They must have been very sure-footed animals.

We were told to keep on the inside of the tracks if any approached us from behind otherwise we might be barged off the edge and over a big drop!

Right: Off we set with Sonam in the lead, guiding us, and Tensin bringing up the rear and any stragglers. The going was sometimes steep both up and down in places.

We were passed by those on pony-back. As advised, we stuck to the inside of the track.

At about half-way we arrived at a small plateau which featured shelter, this prayer wheel (right) and a large café which we made grateful use of on the way back down. The pony riders had to stop here and were on foot for the rest of the way.

Left: Somewhere en-route was this display of 'tsa-tsas' (described in previous blogs).

Right: It was getting closer! The weather began to close in but fortunately cleared again.

Then we reached the final section. This involved a 'viewing' platform before a challenging stretch of 750 very steep stone steps descending into a ravine with another 300 back up to the front gate of the monastery. I was told this but didn't count them! Left: Our group gathering breath before descending the steps.

Right: At the bottom there is a bridge across the ravine with a 200ft waterfall. We were told that Guru Rinpoche's 'consort' inhabited a cave near here while he was doing his meditating. She/he/it must have got a bit bored (and hungry) for the 3+ years he was 'busy' examining his navel!

Left: A small cave at the bottom. Maybe this is the one.

The final steps up were very steep and tiring. However we all made it to the top and the entrance to the 'Nest'. Right: There were big notices to tell us we had to leave any backpacks and cameras outside on a bench. There was even a guard on the entrance who could frisk any suspicious looking camera carriers or bar anyone 'inappropriately' dressed.

The journey up had taken us nearly 3 hours and we were somewhat knackered.

We had a comprehensive tour around the elaborately decorated buildings. In a small chamber to the side of the temple was an ornate panel which covered the front of the entrance to the cave in which Mr Rinpoche had meditated, together with the 'magic black dagger' which had flown in to join him. This entrance is opened, amidst much ceremony, once a year. I'm not sure who is present on this prestigious occasion.

Left. A view down to the valley from the top. It always amazed me how the 'residents' up here manage their re-supplies. There are no cable cars, lifts or helicopters to assist! Also the difficulties in building these complex structures in such inaccessible places back in previous centuries. Very hard and difficult work for sure.

After spending about 1.5hrs up here we started down again. It was much quicker going but those steps were still a challenge. Right: A view looking back.

It was a welcome relief to stop at the café at the half-way point for, in my case, some beer and biscuits.

Interestingly, and I have no photos to show, there were several rather elderly and seemingly infirm (more so than me) people attempting this trek. We passed a few slumped over railings. I was told they would all make it, eventually.

Back down to the base and bus at about 1.00pm and on for lunch at another restaurant in Paro. It had been a most interesting, if tiring, morning.

The rest of the afternoon was again free time spent wandering the town. Not much more to add there from my previous Paro observations. Back to the hotel for supper and filling in various e-docs for the flights home. 

This was our last full day in Bhutan and the flights back home were tomorrow. It had been a most fascinating 2 weeks and fearfully well organised. I have tried to cover our journey accurately and finish this now. 

P.S. I might add an 'addendum' later to summarise the tour and fill in any points which I may have left out and which spring to mind.

"Shu lay log jay gae", in Dzongkha!