BUDAPEST - BRIEFLY

21st - 22nd Mar 2016

Hungarian Parliament Building. Budapest

Departed Munich at 1120 on a 'Railjet' train bound for Budapest. Not quite up to ICE standard, but not bad. The 7 hour journey passed through Salzburg, Linz, Vienna and subsequently a few Hungarian places with unpronounceable names before arriving at Budapest Keleti railway station in the East of the city (Pest). 

One useful feature on the train, displayed throughout all the carriages, was this screen (left) showing updated times of arrival at the various stations en-route and where you are in between them. I expect it is quite beyond the wit of any British rail company to do likewise.

A quick and efficient (10 minute) Underground/Metro ride from the station took me close to my hotel, The Art'Otel, on the West bank of the river (Buda side). I mention these hotel names because, so far, they have been excellent and maybe someone intending to visit the cities might like the reference.

As you may know, the city is divided East - West by the River Danube. The West side being Buda, and East side Pest. The East side, Pest, is flat and contains most of the commercial and smart shopping areas plus Government buildings (think London West-End). The West side (Buda) is hilly and contains the ancient castle complex, the Presidential Palace and more historic buildings.

I only had a day to wander around town, and I wasn't going to rush. I started with a touristy one hour open-topped 'hop-on hop-off' guided bus trip, which is a good way to get one's bearings. For the most part I was the only person on the bus (the tourist season has not got underway yet) and was regaled, in good English, with much detail by a most enthusiastic lady on the microphone.  She never stopped talking to draw breath the whole way.  Being the only member of her audience I thought she might just as well have sat down next to me and talked quietly. I expect she was practicing her technique for the season to come.

I learnt (or bits I have remembered anyway) a few quite interesting facts and figures from her deluge of information. For example, the Parliament building (pictured above and most impressive it is too) was completed in 1904, has 691 rooms and there are 199 MPs. The Budapest Metro was the first in the world to have electric underground trains (1896). The Hungarian language is not a Romanse language and is unlike any other in Europe, but eminates from the Magyar nation who migrated west from Siberia and then split in two. One lot going North West to Finland, and the rest to what is now Hungary ie. Finns and Hungarians speak similar tongues...although my guide told me that over the centuries the dialects have changed a bit and she wouldn't easily understand a Finn. Similar to me in Glasgow perhaps. Although Hungarian/Magyar is written in Roman script the pronounciation is baffling. I wanted to get to Battyanny Metro station. I kept asking the way to 'Batty Anny' but nobody understood. It is pronounced 'Buthyenny', or something similar.

We passed many impressive buildings, shops, hotels, restaurants, coffee houses etc. and both sides of the river look smart and prosperous. This building (right) is the main synagogue and, I think she said, the second largest synagogue in the world, after one in New York. There is a large Jewish community in Budapest who were given a very rough time by the Germans in WW2.

Lots of info concerning the history of the city and particularly the short 'Revolution' in 1956, to which there are several monuments and the 23rd October, when it began, is a national holiday. Hungary is famous (apparently) not only for it's wine, but honey and spicey sausages. Lots on sale around town.

Left. On the Pest bank, the old HQ of the once  notorious State Security Police (the AVH). Now put to some less controversial use. Probably the Inland Revenue offices or something similar.

Right: On the Buda bank, Budapest Technological University. The oldest functioning technological university in the world. Inaugurated 1782.

Statues are in abundance. I liked this one (left). It might have been entitled 'After a Good Night in the Mess', but I think it is something to do with the 1st World War.

Several of these 'Segway' type vehicles were in evidence. They are popular in many cities worldwide, and I think can be really useful with no danger to anyone. They are prohibited in public areas and streets in UK because as they don't fall into a convenient catagory of transport it is just easier to ban them.

There is a short funicular (left) to take you up the hill to the old castle complex, Buda side. Quite expensive at 1200 Florins (about £3) for 2 minute ride. I went anyway and the little cabin cars are rather quaint.

On top of the hill, majestically positioned to overlook the city,  is the Castle containing museums and galleries.

Right: The Castle, from the opposite side of the river. The Presidential Palace is on the right.












...and the front door of the Presidential Palace (left) guarded by sentries........

.....who did a bit of drill to amuse the somewhat scant crowd. Lots of twirling rifles which they exchanged between one another at the end. I wonder if they have to sign back in the one they signed out? Both wore large dark glasses which made them look a bit dodgy in my opinion. Suspect they have picked up that habit from the US servicemen who do the elaborate drill at Arlington Cemetery, Washington DC. Very naff.

Good views from the top. Left: Looking North up the river over the Széchenyl Bridge towards Margrit Island in the distance.












.....and to the South, over the Eszébit (Elizabeth) Bridge.

...and a statue on the hilltop of a lady waving her knickers at passing sailors.

Right: Another amusing statue up at the Castle of a hunting scene complete with a hole in the rock into which whatever the hounds are chasing has disappeared. The guy on the left is about to dig it out.

Left: A view down the funicular railway. I was slightly miffed to discover that the ticket I bought to get up was only one way. I had to pay again to get down. I suppose I was lucky that they didn't charge 10 times the price to go back. OK, I could have walked.

Next up was a riverboat trip up and around Margit Island. This was covered in the cost of the bus tour, but I had inadvertently lost/thrown away my bus tour ticket and had to pay again (8 Euros). Quite a full load of passengers. A one hour trip with a bar/cafe on board. 

There are lots of very pleasant cafes and bars along both sides of the river. I dropped into this one, the Piano Cafe, for a bite to eat. Delicious Hungarian Goulash. It did indeed have a piano in it. Played at nights, I was told.

The service you get in these places is exemplary. Very polite and helpful staff and they all seem to speak perfect English. I suppose you have to if nobody else in the world, other than a passing Finn, speaks Hungarian.

Right:......and on the landing downstairs outside the Gents loo was this dummy in Hussars uniform. You might be aware that King George ? so admired the Hungarian Hussars and their smart uniforms that he instigated Hussars Regiments in the British army. They still exist. Actually, come to think of it, Hussars wear a 'busby', a sort of smaller, shorter version of the Foot Guards bearskin, This guy is improperly dressed, or maybe he's not a Hussar after all.

Left: On my way back to the hotel I encountered this chap playing intricate classical music with sticks on water filled wine glasses. Incredibly impressive and very jolly. Such talent you find in the oddest of places.

So, without breaking into a sweat, that is what I did in 7 hours touristing around Budapest. I was impressed. A lovely city, what I saw of it. Very civilised.

Back to Keleti station for the night sleeper, departing 1910, to Brasov, Romania. Although still '2nd Class', I had a cabin to myself (right). The bed was comfortable and it had a little bathroom attached with loo, basin and even a shower. There were very few other passengers. I was alone having supper in the dining car. The food was not great, but cheap and edible. Maybe other passengers brought their own grub with them.

To be continued in Romania.....