MORA

 3rd - 4th Sept 2020

The big Dala Horse (Dalahäst) in Mora.

It was a 30 minute train ride from Tällberg to Mora at the northern end of Lake Siljan. There are two railway stations in Mora, and I got off at the main one which was, irritatingly, much further from where I was to stay than the other one. I had booked in to a guest house on the west side of town. A one mile walk. They are a very trusting people, the Swedes. I was the only guest and was texted with the codes to get into the front door and for the room key cabinet. The house was impeccably clean with a fully equipped kitchen, sitting room and bedrooms. Effectively I just helped myself and was never visited by the owners; I simply put the key back in the cabinet when I left. For all they knew I could have been hosting a wild drug-fuelled orgy, trashed the place, nicked all the kit and done a runner....which, of course, I didn't.

Left: A smaller Dalahäst. They come in all sizes (2" up to the 40' job featured at the top) and the region (Dalarna is famous for these originating from before the 17th century). They are emblematic of Sweden and popular souvenirs. They are often given to visiting dignitaries whom I'm sure are very grateful.

The town is famous for the revolutionary Gustav Vasa who, in 1520, arrived here and stood in front of the local population to try to whip up a rebellion against the ruling Danish regime. The locals booed him and 'gave him the finger' (they had probably been on the pop, for which, until a recent clampdown, the Swedes were famous). He was forced to do a runner (on skis) to the border.

After he left, and the town had sobered up, they reconsidered and a couple of locals set off in pursuit of him and finally overtook him in Sälen, 90km away, brought him back and he, and they, saw off the Danes and changed Swedish history. He became King Gustav 1. Right: His statue standing where he addressed his, initially, bolshy countrymen..

This led to another event for which Mora is famous; the Vasaloppet ski race which is held on the first Sunday in March. It has attracted up to 15,000 competitors for the 90 km race from Sälen to Mora. 

Left: The finish line in Mora.

Right: Not my photo of course, but a snap of the skiiers in the fiercely competitive race.

Left:  An actual finish at Mora.

Right: A statue of a competitor near the finish line.

Left: Behind which is the Vasaloppsmuseet (museum) which I was hoping to visit. It was closed. Probably due to lack of tourists. What a bugger, and I don't know what was on display. Lots of skiis, bobble hats and photos presumably.

Right: The Mora Kyrka, ouside of which is a statue of St George and the Dragon. It is not clear what the connection is.

For lunch I found a pleasant bar/restaurant nearby  called 'The Pub'. This had a buffet which was very good value and the like of which I had used in Uppsala. OK, the beer was expensive but there was a delicious array of food and you could help yourself non-stop for about £8 (equivalent). Much recommended should you be visiting Mora.

Then on to the Zorn Museum. Anders Zorn (1860-1920), born in Mora, was a famous and very successful Swedish artist. I had never heard of him before. He started painting in watercolours but moved on to oils, etchings and sculptures.

He was very fat.

There were videos of him riding horses which presumably developed bad backs.

He initially specialised in painting portraits of European aristocracy and wealthy patrons, making a fortune doing so. He was much in demand and travelled widely between Sweden, Italy, Spain, America and settled for a time in London. Right: A typical example of his work of some posh bint.

He was a very prolific artist and this museum contains a large quantity of his paintings, etchings and small sculptures. Left: A jolly picture of a Turkish oarsman.

In the latter part of his career he took to painting nudes. He had presumably earned enough money and got bored of painting finely dressed aristocratic ladies. This example here (right) was of a maid at the Waldorf Astoria in New York where he was staying at the time and whom he had presuaded (or bribed) to undress. Good room-service. Can you imagine the fuss if someone tried that nowadays! Still, I expect the young lady did well out of it.

He spent a lot of money  on buying silver Left: Part of his collection in the museum.There were another two walls of it. It must have kept someone (his wife?) busy cleaning it all. I expect she was exasperated by his obsession : "Oh bloody hell, Anders my little schnitzel, not another  goddam silver dinner service!".

Right: His studio in the garden of his house in Mora.

It was pouring with rain after my visit here and apart from wandering around the shops there was little else to do that I could find. After a visit to the Systembolaget to buy a reasonably priced bottle of wine and a supermarket to buy food, I retired to my guest-house. 

Left: A popular Swedesh dish; a very large sausage called Falukorv. I must confess I never tried it.

 Right: This young lady has eaten too many of them by the look of it

That's it for Mora. Back to Stockholm tomorrow. Toot toot.