ZANZIBAR OR BUST

27th - 31st Oct 2020

A typical Zanzibar Beach

Following my happy 'Covid-lite'  (ie.no anti-social rules) visit to Sweden, I decided to go to Zanzibar after reading an article in the travel section of a newspaper which described the place as a 'sun-kissed paradise and no arsing about with petty 'Covid' restrictions'.

The flight from Heathrow. leaving at 1725hrs, was with Kenya Airways via transiting via Nairobi and Dar Es Salaam to Zanzibar, arriving the next day at 1355hrs. It was a perfectly efficient if 'no frills' service and with unlimited supplies of Tusker beer. 

It is extraordinary how different the approach to this pesky 'Covid' bug is in different countries. I thought UK was somewhat paranoid with all the face-masks, hand-sanitiser and 'social' distancing, but Kenya is one step ahead. The cabin crew were all wearing what looked like biological warfare outfits and all passengers with face-nappies; except when the meals (and drinks) came around and these were removed; in my case for the duration. I had the luxury of an empty row of 3 seats to kip on. At Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta airport it was extraordinary to see so many passengers (mainly Kenyan I suspect) wearing full HAZMAT outfits and lots of temperature checks etc. Fortunately no expensive 'Covid-Negative' certificate (someone is making a fortune out of these tests!) was required for transit passengers. On arrival in Tanzania (Julius Nyerere airport) it was a throw-back to my arrival last month in Sweden; no incoming hassle (just welcoming smiles and a visa check), no face-masks worn by staff or locals and no anti-social distancing. As far as I am aware Tanzanians are not dying in droves on the street. Malaria is a much bigger killer here, and has been for ever, despite pill prophylactics, but noone is wetting their pants over that. It was another breath of fresh air! Arrival in Zanzibar, a 20 min flight north-east in an old ATR 72 turboprop, was similarly welcoming.

Zanzibar (otficially now known by some as Unguja) has an interesting history. 16th century Portugese (Señor Vasco da Gama),17th century Sultanate of Oman (great slave traders), then a 19th century British Colony along with Tanganyika. It gained independence, along with Tanganyika, in 1963, but remains a semi-autonomous state within Tanzania.

Left: Overlooking Zanzibar City (Stone Town). More about this fascinating place later. 

In the meanwhile I had, unwittingly, arrived on the day they (Tanzania and Zanzibar) were holding Presidential Elections. 

 

Zanzibar is fiercely independent and was fielding a popular candidate, Maalim Seif, whose mandate resists Government influence from Dar Es Salaam under President John Magufuli. The sitting President of Zanzibar, Hussein Mwinyi (right), CCM party, is an ex-minister in the Tanzanian Government and, presumably, rather more sympathetic to Dar Es Salaam. He is the favourite to win and stay President of the island

Left: The 'challenger', Maalim Seif of the Action for Change and Transparency Party (ACT). Apparenty he is a staunch muslim and part of his mandate is to reduce the number of places selling alcohol. He wouldn't get my vote

They were expecting 'unrest' during and after the elections so many military and armed police were patrolling the streets and sitting on stand-by on the outer roads. I bumped into some (armed with AK rifles, rubber bullet guns and CS gas) on the way to my hotel. I spoke to some of them later...they were friendly and chatty.

Mr Mwinyi had won the poster war by a distance. His posters (as per right) occupied about 90% of available space and were plastered throughout the town, Mr Seif 5% and the remaining three or four hopefuls the rest.

I  was keen to see a bit of the 'action' and get some dramatic photos of police brutality.

I had booked into a hotel (the Crown) but on arrival in Zanzibar Town by taxi from the airport, the driver, who had rung the hotel for directions, took my suitcase and walked me down some some ominous dark narrow little alleyways (was I about to be robbed did cross my mind), too narrow to drive through, (which was where we bumped, harmlessly, into the police/army patrol) to a small establishment hidden behind imposing studded wooden gates. it was called, most disconcertingly, Bottoms Up! What had I let myself in for?! Actually it turned out to be a marvellous place with very helpful staff, especially the receptionist (Dishan) and a supremely comfortable en-suite room with good air-con, a good shower, WiFi and even a satellite TV (which didn't work due to the Government turning many data facilities off during the election). I was told I had been moved from the Crown Hotel because it was next to a polling station, a likely demo spot, and they feared collateral damage from incoming bricks, stones, petrol bombs, CS gas and spears if riots broke out there. I was to spend 3 nights in Bottoms Up.....and brilliant value at a discounted rate of $70 (£20 per night) all in, plus a free large bottle of Kilimanjaro beer as a welcome present. 

I have learnt, so far, 3 common expressions in Swahili; "Jambo" (hello), "asante" (thank you) and "caribu sana" (you're very welcome). I have yet to learn "don't shoot".

The main, and touristy, part of Zanzibar City is called Stone Town, It is a large low-rise area bounded by the sea north and south and a main road to the east called Creek Road, or Benjamin Mkapa Street, whoever he is/was, in the modern vernacular but most of the locals still call it Creek Road; as is the case with many renamed streets in cities from British colonial days. Also, presumably as a throwback to British days, they (sensibly) drive on the left and use British style 3-pin electric plugs. It a veritable maze of little alleyways only passable by pedestrians and scooters. I was given a street map at the hotel, and very nice it is; but unfortunately they have not put any street signs on the actual streets. I can normally get my bearings from the sun (plenty of that here) but as we are so close to the equator the sun seems always to be directly overhead for most of the day, and hidden in morning and evening when you are in the maze. 

Left: A  typical 'street' in Stone Town. The locals are very cheerful and friendly but with one drawback; they are all very persistant 'touts'. You can hardly move without one of them trying to sell you something, or telling you he is an 'official' guide and can give 'very good cheap city tour' and it is difficult to shake them off. It becomes somewhat wearing. 

They often ask "are you lost" and "I can show you the way" (expecting a large tip of course). My reply was usually "no, I am just going home" several times before shaking them off. Trouble is I was always completely disoriented and totally lost and sometimes found myself back to where I started and passed the same 'helpful' guide 3 or 4 times. He would then bound up to say " I see you again many times". My bluff is called and I have to think of another excuse. I have never been to a place so baffling to navigate (apart maybe from the souk in Fez, Morocco) bcause all the little short alleyways look the same and end in a T junction. Turn left or right? It's just a guess. I found my way to a bar only a  5 minute walk from the hotel. It took me nearly an hour to find my way back...and no, I wasn't pissed!  

There are cats everywhere, mostly of the verminous begging variety. However the locals seem to like them and, like this chap (right), put our bowls of food for them.

Life, as you may have gathered is pretty free and easy here with few petty rules. You can ride a motorbike without a crash helmet if you wish as an exampe (many do), although I am told the police can make a good living out of awarding car drivers 'on the spot' fines for any perceived minor infraction. 

There is only one thing which is expressly banned in Tanzania, and that is plastic bags. Quite a good idea I think. Why can't the West do that? I had to leave my trusty Waitrose 'bag for life' in my suitcase and buy a local cloth one.

Left: Jaws Corner, somewhere in the middle of the Town. It is at the junction of 4 or 5 alleyways and I passed through it, completely lost, on several occasions, from different directions. It is a place where locals gather for a bit of a chinwag and watch for idiot tourists like me. I think I became quite well known to some of the regulars with lots of "Jambo Mambo good to see you again my friend" followed of course by "you want guide?" I began to resemble a rather vague, wiffling and confused Mr Bean character.

Zanzibar is a predominanty Muslim community courtesy of the long Omani /Arab occupation. As such several establishments do not sell alcohol; but many do, especially any catering for tourists. Right: The Antonio Hotel and Spa became my regular watering hole. Good food and drink and helpful staff plus a good swimming pool if the mood takes you. I met three very amusing Romanian girl tourists there who were having a pretty wild time! It was also one of the places I could reliably find (after a bit of practice) and get home from. 

This place, like many other parts of the world during this Covid hysteria, is suffering badly from a lack of tourists. Zanzibar rather depends on them and lots of locals have lost their jobs as a result. There are still quite a few (as left) mainly, it transpired, from Eastern Europe and Russia, although I did meet some French and Swiss. Like me, they were probably attracted by the healthy lack of 'social restrictions' and no silly face-mask requirements. And the sunny weather!

Right: These heavy wooden doors, studded with brass, are a common feature. I think they are a throwback to the Portugese when they occupied the place.

Anyway, more to show you from Stone Town in the next post. I have been delayed in writing these blogs due to lack of 'Google' services. Fortunately the Turkish owner of the little beach hotel I am presently staying in is a whizz with computers and he has somehow re-jigged my machine with a 'VPN' system, whatever that is, which cleverly bypasses the Government block. Thanks Hashim! Posting this while the going is good.

PS. So far I haven't, disappointingly, seen any demos or riots. All seems very quiet and peaceful. One of the Romanian girls said she saw some youths throwing stones at the police, who promptly beat them up.