MORE ENCORE SAMARKAND

15th -19th Apr 2025

The madrassas at Registan lit up at night

"Salaamu Alaykum", as some say here. Up north of the Jewish Quarter is the area known as 'Afrosyiab', the same as the name for the fast 'bullet' trains on which I have yet to secure a seat. Afrosyiab is the name of a mythical Persian king. I spent most of a day wandering around this area. Anyway, up here is another (one of many) large mosque and mausoleum; the Shah-i-Zinda (right). 

It features a long passageway and line of 18 crypts, one of which (left) is that of Tamerlane's (him again!) sister, Shirin-Beg-Aga, who died in 1372,  plus her children. The other 17 crypts house various relations and connections of Tamerlane and all similar if not so lavishly decorated. There are little side-chapels and other rooms. Rather boring, frankly.

Right: One room featured this large table/seat thing which people lounge on in this part of the world. They were common in many restaurants and hotels (mine included) and most uncomfortable if you ask me! I don't know what they are called.

On up through Afrosyiab and I passed, and entered, another restored mosque, the Hazsrat-Hizr. There really are more old 14th century, and earlier, mosques, mausoleums and madrassas than you can shake a stick at, so I will now resist showing any more. As mentioned before, when you've seen one you've seen them all!

I continued north up a long straight avenue and passed the Jewish Cemetery (right). I believe there was a large Jewish community here at one point. There is an operating synagogue in the Jewish Quarter. Not on my list of places to visit.

After a mile or so I arrived at the Afrosyiab Museum (left). As well as the usual 'archaeological' displays of old stones and bones etc. there was much info concerning the ancient (BC to when?) Sogdian and Bactrian civilisations. A video was shown to explain things, but it was in Russian so I didn't learn much. The history of this part of the world involving so many civilisations, empires and invasions is far too complicated to begin describing!

On a visit to the helpful tourist office, I became interested in an advertised day tour outside the city. There was another tourist in the office. We got talking. He was a young Belgian chap called Nathan and we agreed to go on the tour together the next day and share the cost.

We were duly picked up by car at our respective hotels by a charming 'guide' called Moona and her driver. We set off southwards, initially to a curious collection of stones and boulders on a hill called 'Teshick-Tosh'. It was named after a Neanderthal skeleton was found in a cave there, and translates as 'stone with a hole'. Right: A stone with a hole.

Left: Moona, our guide, at Teshick-Tosh. She was very interesting describing the present day 'Muslim' conventions and traditions as observed here. They are a fairly 'liberal' lot it seems. Headscarves etc. are purely voluntary (more just a fashion) and no full-face coverings. She mentioned that 'arranged' marriages are common. However, Tajik mothers will not allow their sons to marry to Uzbek women! She also mentioned the 'five main rulings of Islam', (the Five Pillars of Islam) which I have forgotten and which, I suspect, they mostly pay lip service to.

Right:....and me posing with some locals near the 'stones'. 

Left: We travelled on south over and through the Zarafshan mountains (or the foothills thereof). Great scenery, although the weather was a bit hazy, past the town of Kitob and finally arrived at the town of Shakhrisabz, about 90km from Samarkand.

It is the birthplace of Amir Timur (Tamerlane), yes, sorry, him again!

Right: He built a palace here, known as Ak-Saray, in 1379 and presumably lived in it for a bit. He wanted Shakhrisabz to become the capital of his empire. The palace was later semi-destroyed by an Iranian invader called Nadir Shah in 1740, and subsequently has been mostly restored.

The palace is now surrounded by a large well tended park (it used to be houses). It features various things of interest, such as this tree (left). It is a maple tree over 700 years old! (planted 1370).

Right: Plus, of course, a mosque featuring more impressive mosaic tile decorations.

OK, no more mosques....for the time being at least.

I must mention Nathan, my interesting fellow tourist. He is the most extraordinary 'polyglot'. He teaches Finnish at a night school in Bruges and is fluent in many languages. He speaks English, obviously, but also a medley of languages including Persian and Arabic as well as most Scandinavian tongues and several others. He could translate the seemingly obscure Muslim/Arabic engravings on the buildings and monuments. 'Persian' forms the basis of the Uzbek 'Tajik' language which he can get by with. He is also a knowledgeable horticulturalist (trees and plants etc.). Very clever. 

Left: A previous ancient 'caravanserai' now converted into a restaurant. 

Right: Sorry!...another statue of Tamerlane with his palace in the background.

He had wanted, and expected, to be buried in this place, his place of birth. He died in 1405 of some illness while campaigning against the Ming Empire near the present Chinese border. His two sons took over the 'Timurid' empire. He was subsequently entombed in Samarkand (as described in a previous blog).

Left: The crypt in this park which was his intended resting place. It had been buried, undiscovered, for centuries and only found, by chance, in 1943, when a child playing football fell through the ground. It holds this empty stone coffin. Moona in the background.

Right: Lt to Rt. Myself, our driver, Moona and the 'genius linguist/horticulturalist' Nathan. We had stopped for a meal, up a zig-zag road on the way home, at a picturesque mountain 'Tandoori' restaurant. Lots of mutton and gallons of tea, but no alcohol.

Back in Samarkand at 5.00pm and it had been a very enjoyable day out. Most educational.

Left: More dancing ladies. They did it everywhere....can't think why. It presumably keeps them fit.

The following day I went back to the tourist office to book ongoing transport. I intended to go next to Bukhara and then on to the town of Khiva, both famous towns on the Silk Road. Bukhara is about 190 miles west of Samarkand and Khiva 350 miles further on. 

Getting seats on the trains (my favoured mode of transport) proved difficult despite the best 'computer internet' efforts of the guys at the tourist office. I could get a train to Bukhara, and then at a later date on to Khiva, but no seats were available for weeks back from Khiva. I think tourist companies block-book them. I had to be back in Tashkent for my flight home. In the end I chose to cut my losses, and they could get the last remaining bunk on an overnight sleeper from Bukhara to Tashkent on the 24th April. I felt I had to take it, so it was going to be too long perhaps in Bukhara and no Khiva...hey ho!

On my final day in Samarkand the weather turned wet and cold. It had been gloriously warm and sunny up until now. Right: The Grand Music and Theatre Hall in Samarkand...in the wet. 

Left: Something that I forgot to mention. About 80% of the many cars in this place (and Tashkent) are coloured white. I asked why. I was told a) that it hides the pale coloured dust and/or b) better in the hot weather c) for some obscure tax reason. I must investigate further. My 'research' agency, OMPITA, will probably come up with the answer.

I think that will have to do from Samarkand. I probably missed all sorts of things, but got a good feel for the place and it was all most interesting and the people most hospitable. Onwards next to Bukhara. 

'OMPITA'  has done some research and come up with the goods again:

In Samarkand, as well as other parts of Uzbekistan, many cars are white due to a combination of practical and economic reasons.

1. Climate Considerations – Uzbekistan experiences hot summers, and white cars reflect sunlight better than darker colors, helping to keep the interior cooler.
2. Dust Visibility – The region can be quite dusty, and white cars tend to show less dust compared to darker vehicles, making them easier to maintain.
3. Local Manufacturing – Uzbekistan has a strong domestic car industry, particularly with Chevrolet models produced locally. Many of these cars come in white as a standard color.
4. Import Restrictions – High import taxes make foreign cars expensive, so most people opt for locally produced vehicles, which are predominantly white.

It’s a fascinating mix of practicality and policy shaping the streets of Samarkand.

.........and much more concerning Uzbek culture, that 'low level bed' and dancing in the street. Too much to publish here.

Re. the Five Pillars of Islam 

Shahada (Faith);   

Salah (Prayer); 

Zakat (Charity); 

Sawm (Fasting) 

Hajj (Pilgrimage)

"Inshallah".

ENCORE SAMARKAND

15th -19th April 2025

Local ladies posing outside the three madrassas on Registan

Left: A romantic touch before we leave the 'touristy' madrassas on Registan. It is obviously a popular spot for the traditional/compulsory (Eastern) pre-nuptial photo-ops (left).

Right: There were two couples here, with their 'entourages', when I passed by.

Left: The 'brides-to-be' did not skimp on their face make-up! Every inch was powdered, painted and highlighted. Just as well it didn't start to rain.

Right: There is a very large park adjacent with cafés.......

Left: ....plus the ubiquitous stalls selling all sorts of tat.

Right: .....and the statue of Islam Karimov. He was the first president of Uzbekistan from its independence in 1991 to his death (heart attack) in 2016. He was a somewhat 'autocratic' ruler (ruled with an 'iron fist', I read) and by some means or other stayed in power after 3 further 'referenda' (2000, 2007 and 2015) each time receiving over 90% of the 'vote'. Some suspected 'irregularities'.

Left: Transport (Coca-Cola again) around the park came in several guises....from pedal power......

Right: .....to various forms of 'taxi'.........

Left: .....cheap at 20p (equiv) per ride.

On up Tashkent (or Karimov) Street to the north-east where I found what turned out to be a most helpful and efficient tourist office with staff who spoke perfect English. A rare/unseen feature in all the places I have been to previously. While there I tried to book ongoing rail journeys and, despite the best efforts of the staff, it proved difficult with most trains being fully booked up. More about that later.

Right: A gaggle of schoolgirls on the way to or back from school. They were well turned out, as indeed were most of the citizens around here.

Left: Past a group of singing and dancing ladies.....there were more up the road. I'm not sure why they were dancing....they just seemed to be enjoying themselves....

Right: ....and were happy for me to have my photo taken with them.

Left: At the end of the road was the Bibi-Khanym mosque. Another beautifully restored 14th century mosque, initially financed by Amir Temur (Tamerlane) and was once one of the Islamic world's biggest. 

Right: It has an enormous courtyard behind the façade above with rooms down the sides (more souvenir shops!). The mosque proper is at the end. There is a mausoleum on the opposite side of the road.

Left: The ceiling inside the mosque. A miracle of mosaic tiles.

Right: Just north of this is the vast Syob Bazaar. The photo here shows a mere third of it. There are two other similar areas on different levels. 

Left: Some of the stuff on display.

Right: And more..... I can't think who buys all this, or at least enough to keep so many stalls in business.

Left: Another 'photo op' with a group of locals. For some unknown reason they were keen to have their photo taken with me. Probably because I looked a bit of an 'oddity'!?

Right: I was surprised by the number of carpet shops on the main streets. Subsequently I was told that this part of the world is famous for its silk carpets. I had no idea previously.

Left: I then discovered that there is a major (if not the most important, indeed only remaining major manufacturer) based in this city (according to its manager anyway). It is called 'Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets'. It is in the eastern Jewish Quarter.

I met, by chance, the manager, Mohammad, whose father owns the place as did his grand-father before him (who is still alive and takes a keen interest).

Right: They do not come cheap. One of the smaller and 'simpler' designs on display measuring about 5ft x 3ft sells for $5,500. That is Mohammad to the left of it.

Left: This big one of a forest scene took over 3 years to make and is on sale for $15,800! You wouldn't dare stand on it! Indeed, what would you do with it?

Right: Another, very elaborate, design.

Mohammad took me on a most informative tour of the workshop. They produce all their own silk and everything is hand made by the ladies working here (left). Mohammad insisted that only ladies can do this! The complexity, sheer time-consuming patience and skill required to thread every single strand of dyed silk on these looms beggars belief. I still didn't understand how they produced such complex patterns and designs.

Right: Another lady at work.

Left: The storeroom holding many finished products. They also produce silk clothes....but enough photos of silk things.

Right: The ladies about town dressed elegantly and colourfully.......

Left: More colourfully attired citizens. They must be in a 'team' of some sort.

Left: .....unlike yours truly, here sitting with two lions in the park near his hotel. Lions have some significance in this part of the world. I believe they symbolise power, strength and protection and are often found guarding important places or used in architectural decoration.

.....and there is still much more to come from Samarkand!