BISHKEK - KYRGYZSTAN

5th - 6th Apr 2025

Mr Bishkek (a 19th century 'batyr'...knight/hero) after whom the city was named in 1991. 

The history of this part of the world is thoroughly complicated featuring several brutal invasions and empires from Mr Genghis Khan onwards. I believe a nation called 'Sogdians' ruled the roost for a bit, then the 'Khanate of Kokand', then Russia and the Soviet Union and finally independence in 1991. Its original name was Pishpek, then in 1926 it was named Frunze after a renowned Bolshevik Soviet General who was born here. After independence in 1991 it was renamed, as now, Bishkek. Another city on the ancient  'Silk Road'. 

I forgot to mention currency exchange rates, which took some getting used to and which fluctuated significantly, daily. In Kazakhstan there were about 690 Tenge to £1 sterling. In Kyrgyzstan, 115 Som to the £1. The ATM machines seemed to work OK and better rates for cash (I brought some US$) at exchange offices.

Left: The city map. It is built on a grid system and features several wide boulevards and vast Soviet style buildings and squares. The two biggest streets are Chuy Avenue, an 8 lane road running east-west across the centre, and Erkindik Avenue, another 8 lane route with a wooded park between each 4 lanes, running south to north from the train station to the main official buildings, squares and parks at the northern end. (BTW, all spellings of these places in English are variable as they are translated phonetically from Cyrillic or Kyrgyz script). It was often necessary to use underpasses to cross the main streets which, at times, became very busy with traffic

Right: The Kyrgyz flag. This enormous flag (50ft x 35ft) was hanging from a 150ft ft flagpole in the centre of the vast Ala-Too Square. It was a useful landmark!

Left: The State History Museum behind the flag at the northern end of Ala-Too Square. The monument in front of the museum was that of Mr Vladimir Lenin. It is now under scaffolding being replaced by, I think, a statue of the iconic and legendary Kyrg warrior 'Manas'. The 'Epic of Manas' is (arguably) the longest epic poem in the world at 20 times longer than the '0dyssey'. I have not read it.

Right: A statue of Manas the Great somewhere else in town.

Left: Mr Lenin's statue has been moved to a less prominent location behind the museum.  

At the risk of boring you I will report on my visit to the large and spacious museum. As well as the tedious 'ethnology, anthropology, paleantology' stuff (old stones and bones etc.) there were some quite interesting exhibits from Kyrgyzstan's past.

Right: An uncomfortable looking old army uniform.

Left: A more modern uniform and memorabilia once belonging to a 'hero' officer in the past Soviet era. He wore so many medals he must have walked a bit lopsided.

Right: A display of ancient musical instruments.

Left: A couple of stuffed horses.

Right: 16th? century saddles. Very elaborate and maybe comfortable?

Left: Another Yurt.

Left: Some weird religious talismans and amulets (animal claws etc.) and a tambor. I think they are Jewish. There was a large Jewish community in this part of the world, but is now predominantly Muslim.

Right: An 18th century hat. The Kyrgyz are fond of their hats.

The weather here up until today had been warm and sunny. I left my waterproof jacket (thinking of chucking it away) in the hotel. On leaving the museum it started to rain heavily and drizzled for the rest of the day. Typical! I found a decent bar to shelter in.

Left: These tall hats, called kalpaks, are on sale at many stalls. I didn't buy one. Too difficult to pack.

Right: They are worn by all the well-dressed men about town.

Left: A toff in his local 'titfer'.

Behind the museum to the north there are several delightful park areas which are well used by the locals for picnics and relaxing etc. The main one (right) is called Oak Park.

There are many jolly forms of transport to take you around the place.

Right: Most are of the self-drive variety, either electric........ These two girls gave me a lift!

Left:.....or pedal powered.

Right: You might recognise some of the drivers.....

Left:......and this one!

Right: To the west of Oak Park is (in the distance here) Panfilov Park (named after the same Russian General as the park in Almaty). This is a large 'children's amusement park' with a big wheel and lots of swings, roundabouts, dodgems etc. I went to have a look and it was mostly closed down. Apparently there had been a bad accident on one of the rides a week ago and it was going to be closed pending investigations and alterations.

To the east of Oak Park is Victory Square, dedicated to the victory over Nazi Germany in WW2. Left: The centre piece of this square is a 'yurt' styled monument. It has other monuments surrounding it.

Right: Under which is an 'eternal' flame and a statue of a lady 'waiting for her husband to return from the war'.

Left: A monument to the soldiers.

Right: ....and another, to soldiers reunited with their children.

Left: Also on the Square, a statue of Urkuya Saliva (1910-1934) dedicated to the Martyrs of the (Russian) Revolution; the socialist warriors that died at the hands of 'rich peasants', apparently. Erected during the Soviet period.

Right: Some happy local lasses relaxing in the Square.

The town is festooned with statues and monuments, so I will try not to bore you with too many. However this one (left) caught my interest. It is on the west side of Ala-Too and is in memory of the victims of 'freedom uprisings' in the town of Asky in 2002. This part of the world has been plagued with 'uprisings' and 'revolutions' involving many fatalities.

My guidebook mentioned that the Osh Bazaar, in Bishkek, is worth a visit. Osh is an ancient town in the  mountainous southwest of the country and is worth a visit, according to my guide book, but I didn't have time.  It is the biggest bazaar in the region. It was a long walk, 40 minutes, west along Chuy Ave. So I went. It took me past the 'Presidential Offices' (right).

Left: I got to the 'spectacular' Osh Bazaar, and most of it was closed. It was Sunday and yes, it semi-closes on Sundays!

Right: A bit of an operating section of Osh Bazaar. Rather disappointing. In fact one bit of any of these bazaars and their maze of passageways is much like another. I've decided that I am not a bazaar fan.

Left: A happy stall holder.

I had changed hotels. Nothing wrong with the 'My Hotel', but I found an equally inexpensive and charming establishment called 'Smart Hotel' which was more centrally located and had an excellent roof-top bar and restaurant. Right: This view over part of the city was taken from there, looking south towards the mountains.

Left: The grand opera/playhouse which was on the street opposite.

I seem to be taking far too long with these 'journals' and have barely scratched the surface. In fact I am now back in UK and have more than 3 weeks of travellin' yet to cover. It keeps me occupied I suppose and will get to the end eventually.....😖😧