BACK TO TASHKENT.......and HOME

25th - 29th Apr 2025

Having a rest in the Navoi Park 'Disneyland'

On the evening of 24th to Kagan rail station (15kms with Yandex-Go taxi cost £1.50!) for the 11.30pm 'sleeper' train to Tashkent. As mentioned previously I had got the last remaining 'berth'. Another thoroughly bolshy lady (how do they end up at all these Uzbek stations and nowhere else?) imperiously kept us all waiting at the gate; me plus a group of amusing Italians also going to Tashkent. The train was 15 mins late departing, and stopped at a couple of stations en-route.

My four-berth compartment contained a rather uncommunicative young Russian couple and, getting on at the last minute, a bloke who occupied the bunk under mine. The 'climb' to the upper bunk was hazardous, as was getting down later to go to the loo. Also, I only discovered on arrival at Tashkent that there was a bar to be raised on the edge of the bunk to stop you falling out and maiming yourself falling 8ft to the floor. Fortunately I managed to stay aloft while asleep.

I had managed to get some sleep and we arrived in Tashkent at 7.45am. The bloke in the bunk under me was still sound asleep, despite the guard vigorously prodding him, as we got off. Maybe he ended up back in Bukhara? He might have been dead!?

Left: Disembarking at Tashkent. This was at the 'southern' secondary station (not the main one) and no Metro station there. It was a long walk to the My Status hotel (same as I used previously), I needed the exercise, where I was warmly greeted as a 'returning guest' and had a good breakfast.

I had a couple of days to spend here and wandered the sights again (plus occasionally refreshing myself with steaks and beer at the marvellous Irish Pub (Oirish Bear) on Shevchenko St. 

To the enormous domed Chorsu Bazaar on the north-west side of town (right). 

Left: Inside the dome. How do all these stalls, I wondered, often selling similar stuff, make money?

Right: Behind the dome is a vast maze of alleyways with stalls. I got entirely lost and disoriented walking into and around this.....

I had difficulty finding my way out!

Left:....passing this 'shop' advertising 'knife'. I doubt that would be approved in UK!

Right: .....plus an enormous smokey cooking/eating area which was well patronised.

Then on to Abdullah Quadiriy Park nearby to the east. It seemed mostly closed off due to renovations taking place inside. I passed this 'Planetarium' (left) and went in. It contained little of interest, mostly photographs and a cinema.

Right: A Soviet jet outside.

Left:...and a statue of Yuri Gagarin, a Russian 'hero' astronaut (not Uzbek), who was on the 1961 'Vostock' space flight. He died aged 38 in a jet training flight accident.

Further on down the edge of the park I came to a square which, amongst other 'amusements', featured an indoor circus (right). I couldn't resist buying a ticket for the soon to start afternoon performance.

Right: Before the show started children, from the audience, were hoisted aloft on elasticated swings and swung around and over the arena. A poor photo, but it looked rather alarming!

There was a large cast of acrobats, dancers and jugglers (must have been over 40 of them), plus some animals and a good band playing. Most of the acts were very impressive, and some involved audience participation. Not by me, I hasten to add.

Left: Another 'act'. I failed to photo the best. They played to a full and most enthusiastic audience...many children. 

Right: A performing Yak...or at least I think it is a Yak. I don't think there were people inside a Yak costume.

Left: Some dancers.

The same cast do three performances a day. They must be very fit, and probably pretty knackered by the end of the third!

On the square outside the circus were some horses and ponies. Some small....

.....and some a bit larger.....

Of course I had to give one a test drive.....

The next day I took a Metro trip to the east of the city and just looked around and got rather lost. There is a large canal, the Anhor Canal, which runs through the city through various park areas such as this (right). I sat down next to these people who were curiously unresponsive so I didn't find out who they were.

At some point I passed this impressive looking building with a statue outside it. There was a guard at the entrance gates and he kindly took this photo (they are most obliging lot). It turned out that the statue is of Islam Karimov (and I think I featured him in a report from Samarkand). He was the first President of Uzbekistan (from 1991) and has the reputation of being somewhat 'autocratic' or 'ultra-authoritarian' ie. corrupt and murderous. The building behind is named after him and features lots of portraits and mementos glorifying his 'reign'. I read that it is somewhat dull, so I didn't bother going in. In fact I think it was closed.

I passed this enormous arena (right). It is called the Humo Arena, or 'Ice Dome'. It is the venue for ice-hockey and other ice-related sports.

Left: From another angle it looks like a giant alien spacecraft.

Back to the canal and, as is so frequent in this part of the world, there were a lot of 'picnickers' out enjoying the warm weather. There is a path running alongside the canal so I took that heading south. At times the path became hazardously narrow and derelict and it would be easy to trip and fall into what is a deep and fast flowing canal. This didn't seem to deter several couples happily walking along it. They have a somewhat more robust attitude to 'elf 'n safety' than us wimpy Westerners!

I had to climb up a steep, muddy and slippery bank to get back onto the road and a bridge across the canal. By chance, and I was somewhat disorientated, I found myself at the Eastern entrance to the Navoi Park 'Magic City'. Sponsored by Pepsi-Cola. 

I have covered this 'mini-Disneyland' in a previous blog, but had another look around anyway. I discovered a large aquarium. Right:  It features impressively lit long tunnels along which are tanks containing a myriad selection of fish and other aquatic creatures of various size and colour. There were boards displaying photos of the various species, but it was all too difficult (for me anyway) to identify what you were looking at.

Left: More unidentified fish. I didn't ask (as I once did at the Sydney aquarium park) if I could bring my fishing rod with me next time.

Right: Anything for a laugh!

I looked for a decent café or restaurant. There were many (all sponsored by Pepsi-Cola) but none served any alcohol. I would have enjoyed a glass of cold beer. Left: An old British telephone kiosk. They are fast disappearing from British streets and I often wonder where they go.

This one appeared to be in use! Or maybe she was just doing her make-up.

Left: I previously mentioned (in the initial Taskent blog) the 'zip-wire' across the pond in the centre of the complex. It is only about 100yds long and not very exciting, but on this occasion I saw some people using it so took this rather poor photo.

I think that will do from Tashkent, and indeed from the 'Stans'. It had been a most interesting and educational month spent in this part of the world. I was going to sum up my opinions at length but will be brief: The local people I met were, on the whole, so charming, helpful and well behaved (no yobs!). It was relatively inexpensive and very 'safe'. Excellent small inexpensive hotels. Very good restaurants and even some decent 'pubs'. The transport system works, if in a fairly idiosyncratic manner (vis. my bus trip from Bishkek to Tashkent!). Everywhere I visited was so clean and well maintained. Their internet/WiFi systems (in the cities at least) are probably better than in UK. I'm sure there must be 'downsides' but I, as a tourist, didn't experience any.

I was due to fly back to UK starting from Tashkent the next day (28th) and duly did so, but not without a slight hiccup. For some unremembered reason I had booked a rather tortuous  flight routing from Tashkent to Astana (the Capital of Kazakhstan) then to Almaty and then on to London Heathrow the next day; change of aircraft at Astana and Almaty. 

The flight, Astana Airways, left Tashkent, a lovely efficient airport with great facilities, on time at 2.30pm. Arrival at Astana at 6.50pm. I was prepared to have a long wait at Astana for the ongoing flight to Amaty to catch the 11.15am flight to London. The ongoing flight from Astana was cancelled! Thanks to a most helpful Air Astana office, they got me on an earlier flight to Almaty. As a result I had an overnight wait in Almaty Airport from 11.50pm to depart at 11.15am for the 9.5 hour flight! I sometimes wonder why I do this to myself. I suspect I didn't look very closely at the 'timings' when I booked the flight.

Anyway, arrived at the chaos of London Heathrow at 5.30pm on the 29th. From there by bus and train to get home at 8.15pm. Phew! I realised I hadn't had any proper sleep since waking up in the My Status hotel in Tashkent at 8.30am the previous day. With the 7 hour time difference that is, by my reckoning, about 45 hours ago. (I'm sure OMPITA will correct my calculations))

Where next?!

OUTSIDE BUKHARA

 22nd - 24th Apr 2025

Khosa Palace. The Emirs' out-of-town summer residence.

I arranged via the splendid Yasmin hotel manageress, Zarina, a car trip to three locations outside town. The driver was, I think, employed by the hotel. Unfortunately he spoke not a word of English but otherwise a decent driver. Off we set on the morning of the 22nd.

First to the Khoja Bahauddin Nakshband 'compound' about 5 miles to the north-east of the city. Mr Nakshband (born 1318) is considered a Saint in the Islamic world and this is where he lived, operated a sort of 'madrassa', and was buried. It is a memorial complex visited by pilgrims, and tourists like me.

Right: If you can enlarge this (click on) and are remotely interested, it will tell you all about him.

Left: The complex contains a large pool.

Right: A courtyard....with more visitors/pilgrims than this photo suggests.

Left:....and a tomb at one end where he is supposed to be buried.

To be honest, it was not very interesting!

Then on to the Khosa Palace, 5 miles to the north of the city (see photo at top). This was originally built in the 18th century but rebuilt and modernised (with separate mens' and women's quarters) between 1912-18 by the last Emir. It served as a luxurious residence away from the heat and smoke of living in the Arc.

Right: The courtyard. 

It is now, basically, a museum with rooms displaying ancient ornaments, artefacts and furniture (left).........

Right:....plus impressive vases....

Left: ......and clothes....

Right: Elaborately decorated walls....

Left: The Grand Reception Hall.

Right:...and, of course, a room displaying and selling Bukhara carpets!  😩😩

Left: Outside in the courtyard, a band and ladies dancing. I have never before been to a country where people (mostly ladies) do so much 'impromtu' dancing!

Right: There is a large aviary containing many peacocks (poor photo), which made the most appallingly loud screeching noise.

Next on to Chor Bakr, near the village of Sumitan, 5 miles west of the city. 

This is the burial place of Abu-Bakr-Said (died 971 AD), one of several Abu-Bakrs, and was, naturally, a descendant of Mohammed.

It is, in effect, a 'necropolis' and mausoleum with many walled areas, both small and large, covered with graves and tombs (right); of whom I never did discover. I could show you many more...but this one is typical. 

Left: From the inside courtyard with a pool and a blue dome over the inevitable mosque.

Right: I stood in the entrance to the operating mosque. I had not taken my shoes off and accidentally stood on a carpet in the doorway. I was given a severe reprimand!

There was an Imam enthusiastically chanting prayers with a family group outside. Discretion stopped me from photographing them...I would probably have been given another bollocking!

Then back to town......after a 'reasonably' interesting day out.

I had seen a poster advertising the 'Desert Oasis Spa', which is about 40kms north-west of the city. It captured my imagination showing, as it did, what looked like an amusing touristy site. 

Right: Photo from the poster.

As well as hot-air ballooning, it allegedly featured luxuriously appointed 'yurts' for accommodation.......

Left: ...with camels to ride, horse-riding and quad-bike 'treks' through 'the picturesque and unspoilt desert countryside'.......

Right: ...and 'cordon-bleu' meals served in 'convivial' surroundings (it didn't mention a bar!).

So I went back to see my amusing new friends, Johnny and Leila, at the tourist info kiosk on Oulugbek Square for more info. They didn't seem to know much about the place but Johnny said he would arrange for his brother, who also speaks good English, to take me there the following day. The idea being to spend a day there to investigate the place.

The following morning a driver duly arrived to collect me from the hotel. It wasn't Johnny's brother and Johnny rang me to say his brother was otherwise engaged but he had fully briefed this driver.

The 'driver' spoke not a word of English and it soon became apparent that he had no idea of where the Desert Oasis Spa was! We set off, uncertainly, along the main road west out of town. His driving was, to say the least, 'eccentric' involving either speeding or slowly crawling and not obviously due to any speed sign restrictions. He stopped on no fewer than four occasions to ask for directions. I was not filled with confidence.

Left: At one point we were following (tailgating!) this car (another white one!). I find it curious to see so much support for English Premier League football clubs in this part of the world.

Anyway, after about 30kms and much stopping and starting we came across a large sign indicating the Oasis Spa turn off from the main road to the south. I think the driver would have missed it if I hadn't pointed it out. Then along a sometimes tarmac, sometimes dirt track with frequent 'roadworks' which involved going around them on a rather perilous kerbside. It was slow going. After about 10kms we did duly arrive at the 'luxurious' Desert Oasis Spa. It had taken 1.5 hours to cover the 40kms. 

Left: It was hardly the place as described on the fancy poster! Indeed, on entering the gate, the only people in evidence were a few workmen idly sitting around what seemed like a closed resort. There were certainly no happy tourists in sight. There was a more senior looking man in a shed who (not speaking English) showed me one of the yurts which was quite nicely furnished. There really was nothing else open or functioning.

The 'unspoilt and picturesque' countryside was not exactly 'Lawrence of Arabia' style desert. It was just flat sandy scrubland (right).

Left: ....and more of it. 

The bolshy driver wanted to go back to Bukhara and grumpily persisted, with much gesticulating, in asking me for the full fare (both two way journeys) in advance. I had no intention of spending all day here. Indeed I had no confidence that he would ever return! I just told him to take me back to town, to which he rather reluctantly agreed, and I would pay him for the single round trip. On the way back, speeding and crawling erratically as before, he even stopped on three occasions to pick up fee-paying passengers from the roadside! What cheek!

Anyway, I eventually got back to the hotel after what can only be described as a rather 'disappointing' morning.

Naturally I reported in to Johnny and Leila to describe this unfortunate trip. He was suitably apologetic and explained that, unbeknown to him,  the advertisements had been made before the site had become fully functional. It was news to him!

Well, I think that just about concludes my stay in Bukhara. A fellow guest at the Yasmin, much better organised than me, was going on to Khiva. As mentioned previously, I could have got to Khiva by train but not back to Tashkent (trains full for weeks) from where I had booked my return to UK. If I had realised earlier (when in UK), I could have booked a flight back to UK from Urgench International Airport which is close to Khiva. Hey Ho! C'est la vie and you live and learn.

I asked my fellow guest at the Yasmin (a charming German lady) if she could send me some photos from Khiva, which she duly did. More mosques, mausoleums, madrassas etc., plus a most impressive fort. Right: This is quite an interesting one!

Now back to spend a couple more days in Tashkent. At least I will be able to refresh myself at the 'Oirish Bear'.

More to come from there......