AROUND BUKHARA

 21st - 23rd Apr 2025

Ulugbek Square.

Ulugbek Square in the Old Town is a very sociable place and normally fairly crowded with tourists. As always my little camera seems to repel them!

The Square features at least a couple of madrassas, a mosque, a large bazaar, restaurants, a good café from which the photo above was taken, numerous, as everywhere, souvenir stalls and, especially, an excellent tourist information 'shack' (left).

This was manned by a very helpful and amusing couple, Johnny and his wife Leila. They both spoke excellent English and Johnny had a wicked sense of humour!

Right: The Ulugbek Madrassa (built 1417) and opposite another madrassa, is the oldest preserved madrassa in Central Asia (I was told). 

Left: Inside the madrassa, as usual, there are little rooms down the sides, most of which held souvenir shops, and carpets being sold in the main hall.

Right: At the back and up some steps was another little room which had attracted graffiti artists. 

Left: Of course I contributed. I'm sure I could have done better with a pic of Travellin' Uncle Matt and the normal 'woz ere' message. If any reader visits, perhaps they can add to it.

Right: The bazaar nearby. The domed roof serves to circulate the air and keep the place cool (before the days of air-con).

Left: Inside the bazaar. As normal a maze of passageways and a vast supply of carpets, clothes, ornaments and tourist tat. 

Right: Throughout the town there were many young artists painting very detailed little pictures. 

I frequented two restaurants in this square, or nearby. Left: The Zolotaya Restaurant with plenty of outdoor seating. Recommended.

Right: As is the Mavrigi Restaurant, on nearby Gavkshon Street, with these tables/loungers outside. I could never feel comfortable 'lounging' on these and trying to use the table...so I didn't. I much prefer a proper table and chair!

Left: Inside. It is a converted madrassa with the rooms down the sides. It has an excellent and 'good value' menu. I ate here on several occasions. The only drawback is the mulberry tree in the centre. It persistently dropped its leaves onto the tables.

Right: ...........and a band played most enthusiastically!

Left: I found this ancient 'gramophone' at one end. The 78 record on it is 'Kalinka', a Russian folksong.

Right: Tourist police. Smartly turned out and probably very helpful, if they spoke English. I can't imagine they had much crime to deal with.

Back to the Lyabi-Hauz square where there is the amusing Puppet Museum which features row upon row of intricately made puppets.

Below: We were treated to a display by this very skilled 'puppet master'. He is using just two fingers and a stick up the middle.

Right: Four ladies sitting near the pool who were devoutly chanting their prayers to Allah.

Left: 30p for a photo wearing one. I was tempted!

Right: The Lyabi-Hauz by night.

Left: The typical taxis about town. They were in abundance....but I walked.

Right: The Char Minar (Four Minarets) is amongst a maze of little streets to the east of the Old Town. This was the gate-house to a long-gone madrassa built in 1807. 

In fact these elaborately decorated 'minarets' are, strictly speaking, not minarets, but 'towers'

Left: Of course there is a souvenir shop as you walk in the front door!

You can climb up a very dodgy narrow little staircase to the floor above the entrance (for 30p) and get a better view of the towers.

Right: One of which has a pair of white birds (egrets?) sitting in a nest on top of it.

That will do for 'downtown' Bukhara. On a couple of days I ventured out on tours beyond the city. I will describe these outings in the next issue.

So, stand-by for more 'fascinating' reportage!

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