A TRIP TO BÉLEM

 15th Jul 2023

'Monument of the Discoveries' in Bélem

Bélem is a south-western suburb of Lisbon on the bank of the River Tagus where it joins the Atlantic Ocean. It is a 20 minute tram ride west from the Cais do Sodré Metro station. It is famous as the port from which most of the early Portuguese Navigators set sail. More about them later. It also contains many ex-palaces (now mainly museums) and grand parks and gardens. A very 'elegant' neighbourhood.

Left: The Presidential Palace is on the eastern end of town. I happened to pass as they were 'changing the guard' which was done with exemplary 'drill' and panache.

Right: A sentry in his box. Very smart, although I'm not so sure about his 'shades' and scruffy facial hair.

Left: A vast and elaborate piece of architecture, this is a monastery, the 'Mosteiro dos Jerónimas' which takes up an entire block. It features highly in the guide books as a 'National Pantheon'; whatever that means. There was a 200yd queue to get in. I wasn't prepared to wait that long, so what is inside is a mystery to me. A monks' striptease show? A shopping 'mall'? I doubt it. Look it up.

Their are several large museums, I rather carelessly missed the 'Quake' museum which puts on a 'big one', the '1755 Great Earthquake Simulator'. Apparently it is most impressive. However, I did visit the Maritime Museum which is a vast three sided edifice on two floors and also features a Planetarium which requires a separate ticket. Right: The entrance to the Maritime Museum.

The history of Portuguese maritime exploration, trade and colonisation is extraordinary. It far pre-dates anything us Brits did, or any other nation for that matter. Despite the likes of our Francis Drake, James Cook and Ernest Shackleton etc., the Portuguese feature, by far, the greatest maritime explorers dating from the early 15th century. Just Google 'list of maritime explorers' and be amazed!

Left: Starting in the early 1400s, with such dodgy looking vessels as these, the likes of Prince Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan and lots more. established the most impressive world-wide routes. Even the Italian navigator Christopher Columbus was trained by the Portuguese.

Right: By the 16th century the Portuguese had established these routes (and colonies). 'Click on' to enlarge. It is quite amazing. They were also the front-runners in inventing maritime navigational instruments.

Left: A statue of Vasco da Gama. The museum contained models of all the significant ships throughout the ages. I won't bore you with many subsequent photos. There were hundreds.

After a long tour through the ages and , as said, hundreds of displays, it ends with a modern Portuguese frigate housing a Lynx helicopter, with which I am somewhat familiar.

The Planetarium was a separate exhibition which had complex 3D cinematic displays of various happenings in space. I didn't have time.

Left: Part of the King's sitting-room, featuring a piano, on the Royal Yacht circa 19th century. There was much more detail than this, and also of the Queen's quarters. Very luxurious.

Right: These rusty bits of metal were, the blurb told us, the anchors recently recovered (in 2014?) from Christopher Columbus' ship, the Santa Maria, which sank off Haiti in 1492. Who knows!

The museum had a separate hall exhibiting 'barges' and early seaplanes. Left: The Portuguese Royal Barge built in 1778 for Queen Maria. Apparently it was still afloat more recently because our Queen Elizabeth 2 was given a ride in it. It was propelled by 80 oarsmen (and perhaps an outboard motor?)

Right: Various early seaplanes from the Portuguese Navy. I failed to make a note of what they are.

I was in this museum for over two hours. I am no nautical buff or enthusiast, but found it fascinating and so well displayed. Left: Just for the benefit of my 'scrutiniser' at OMPITA, I attach this portrait of a famous Portuguese admiral. I was interested at the time but failed to make a note of who he was (WW1 era?). A reward of Pie 'n Mash if the answer is forthcoming.

Right: The ubiquitous 'tuk-tuks' providing transport around town. There were also 'horses and carriages' which clip-clopped along the streets carrying, probably wealthy, tourists. I walked.

Left: The Torre de Bélem. A fortified and armed tower (Unesco Heritage site) on the western entry to the port which protected the place from nasty hostile incomers. Built in the 15th century and of very extravagant design. It has 4 storeys open to the public.

The lower level houses a battery of guns with a 180º coverage of the approach to the harbour area. I'm not sure if these guns were ever used in anger.

One had to queue (there were big groups of tourists) to get from one floor to the next to let those above come down before the next group could go up or vice-versa. It took ages and, frankly, the views from the floors were all similar. The floors were all splendidly built with much decorative 'regal' architecture and all served some purpose or other. The top one was a chapel. The builders in those days, when you could get them of course, were impressive.

Right: A view east down the harbour front. As I came to discover this river front (on the Tagus) all the way down past Lisbon is, and always was, host to thousands of boats of various size and shape. Not so many galleons nowadays.

Left: A seaplane mounted near the Tower from, I believe, just after WW1. It was put there to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Portuguese Naval aviation, I think. There is a 'dummy' pilot in the cockpit.

Right: The Monument to the Discoveries, built to celebrate all the extraordinary navigators and explorers who carved out the extensive Portuguese trade routes and subsequent colonies worldwide from 500 years ago. It had a lift to the top which, of course, I took and it afforded some good views. There is a museum in the basement to show the old dictator António Salazar's (in power 1932 - 1968) efforts on the world exhibition stage to equal his other contemporary 'dictators', ie. Franco, Mussolini, Hitler etc. Mr Salazar has rather 'mixed' revues! I'm not sure what that 'museum' was meant to prove.

I often use a 'Lonely Planet' guide book to give me a 'heads up' in these places. They are normally very objective and useful. One thing that rather pissed me off is that the Portuguese version used four pages to disparage Portuguese 'colonial history' and their use of slaves, presumably written by a woke 'lefty' contributor. This business of condemning past empires of colonialism and slavery seems to be popular nowadays. I think it is misguided and pointless. All previous successful and powerful nations back in the olden days (ie. over 200 years ago) had colonies and used slaves; Romans, Greeks, Persians (now Iran), Austro-Hungarians, even the Muslim Moors who colonised tracts of Spain and Italy (and Portugal). It was considered acceptable, indeed normal, at the time. OK, not now of course, but the British with their Empire and, indeed, the Portuguese come in for more flack than most from the Lefties. What are they now supposed to do about things that happened hundreds of years ago? Put themselves in jail? Self flagellate? Disband? The critics don't seem to go for the Romans, Greeks, Persians (Iran) Austrians etc. nor even slavery currently existing in some nations of the world, in quite the same way! I believe some Empires, including the British one, did more good than harm and we should be proud of it. Yes, some terrible and brutal things were done (it was a more brutal world then), and national profit and power was gained from it, but I remember touring India where so many Indians (and Pakistanis) are actually grateful for much of the infrastructure, legal systems, buildings, technology, military know-how and traditions which we left (and cricket of course). The same could be said of Africa, and many other countries previously colonised by more technically advanced nations. After all, the Romans taught us Brits a few good lessons (see Monty Python..."what did the Romans ever do for us...apart from the laws, the aquaducts, the roads etc. etc. sketch). Maybe there is a 'cut-off' date to criticise. Anyway, this is a contentious subject I suppose, and certainly not what one wants to read about in the Lonely Planet guide book!

Left: A view of the splendid mosaic forecourt beneath the monument. Someone spent a lot of time and effort making this!

Right: A rather elaborate Japanese construction in a park nearby (presumably Japanese? or maybe Burmese? or whatever?). I'm not sure what the connection is. Maybe they sell sushi there at weekends, or worship Buddha occasionally.

Left: A tall monument in the splendid park. A statue to Prince Alphonse el Grande Pouffe? Before launch? Haven't a clue!

There was so much to see in Bélem; more museums than you can shake a stick at and I only scratched the surface. 

Having embarked on this trip around Portugal I am becoming overwhelmed by things to see and talk about. I find it a fascinating country which is more than you may think of my wafflings.

PS. An extraordinary 'work of art' on a wall outside the 'Museu de Art Popular'. It is supposed to represent a raccoon's head in 3D.

ON TO LISBON

 13th -14th Jul 2023

Plaça do Comércio featuring the Triumphal Arch and statue of King José 1 in south Lisbon

Following on from the previous, on the bus from Monchique to Portimão I sat adjacent to a charming young couple (I dread to think what they thought of me) with whom I struck up a conversation. He was Portuguese and worked in London. She, a very attractive young lady, came from Norfolk. They were on there way to Faro to fly back to UK. We walked together (they couldn't get rid of me) to the railway station in Portimão and shared a train as far as the town of Tunes where, luckily for them, I had to change trains to go on to Lisbon. Again, the train service was exemplary; on time, comfortable, good free Wifi, excellent buffet car and the total cost for the 3hr+ journey was 12.5 Euro (OK, I got a reduction due to old age...which is a bonus standard throughout Portugal..also for museums etc). There is an advantage to ageing in these parts.

I arrived at Lisbon main 'Oriente' station at 6.00pm. My 'cheapo' hotel was at the other (southern, riverside) end of town and involved a longish Metro journey. It was quite a faff to work out how to buy the correct ticket from the automatic machine even though instructions could be displayed in English. I was helped. It took me a day or two to get the hang of it. My 'hotel' (paid for in advance), the Alfama, turned out to be crap, and that's saying something by my standards. Some rather grumpy chap (unusual for Portugal) met me there (it was unmarked and difficult to find), showed me to a very basic bedroom with shared bathroom, and then buggered off never to be seen again. I just left the next morning leaving the keys in my door. I found a much better, even cheaper and well located one for the next four nights! (Residential do Sul at 52 Av. Almirente Reis, if you're interested) which was conveniently next to the Anjos Metro station.

The next day was spent wandering the old city. It is wall-to-wall bars and cafés with many tourists plus many elegant old buildings, squares and statues of expired dignitaries .

Left: There are lots of 'souvenir' shops such as this. Three on this small street alone. I bought some postcards. Call me old-fashioned but I still enjoy sending postcards. They seemed to be manned predominantly by people from the Indian sub-continent, and charmingly so. I had an amusing chat with the Bangladeshi proprietor who told me that there is a large Bangladeshi community here. I soon discovered that Portugal, with it's past large colonial empire, is now host to many from their ex-colonies in South America, Africa, Indian sub-continent, Far East etc. Somewhat similar to Britain perhaps. PS. Our postal system in UK seems to have completely broken down so I doubt any of my postcards will be received this year, if ever.

Right: Many of the building façades feature this pretty blue and white pattern. This became apparent in several of the places I subsequently visited.

Left: All the pavements and most squares in the towns I visited are paved with this attractively designed black and white patterned marble type cobble. The designs vary. A lot of work must have gone into this and they all seem to be in a good state of repair. There must be teams of maintenance personnel to keep them in good nick and they are obviously very hard wearing.

Right: I think this rather extraordinary 'statue' is in the Martim Moniz square. It is very lifelike. Not sure what or whom it represents. From now on, be warned, I have taken various photos of interesting monuments and statues but probably can't remember where and who they are.

Martim Moniz is remembered by various streets, and even a Metro station, named after him. Apparently he was a Christian knight in the 13th century who was credited with outstanding gallantry when assaulting the Muslim Moor-held St.George's castle here. Legend has it he led his soldiers to attack the castle and wedged himself into the closing front gate, to prevent the defenders from shutting it, thus allowing his troops to enter and capture the castle, and he died as a result. This, I was subsequently informed, is a myth as Mr (Sir) Moniz published various letters two years after his supposed death. Who knows, and why let the the truth in the way of a good story.

Left: the Triumphal arch at the southern end of Rua Augusta. It was built to commemorate the city's reconstruction after the earthquake in 1755. There is a lift to the top which, of course, I took.

Right and below: Views from the top. Looking north up Rua Augusta. All this area is known as the 'old' or 'historic' district and is very touristy...with good reason.

Left: View to the riverside to the south.

Right: To the Square below.

Left: The square is surrounded by long colonades with several jolly outside cafés and restaurants.

There was a military band marching and playing up the street to the right. After descent I went to watch, however the police had blocked it off. Apparently this was a welcoming party for the visiting President of Cuba (whomever that is now).

Right: Looking  north-west to the castle of St.George. I would be visiting that later.

Left: There is an enormous statue on the top featuring someone wrapped in a bath towel putting wreaths on the heads two unsuspecting victims. I'm sure it represents something significant. 

Right: Lisbon Cathedral nearby. It was built by the Christian crusaders in 1147. I'm not a great aficionado of churches and cathedrals. They seem all very similar inside, just the size varies! However I decided to go in and look around and hoped I wouldn't be struck down by a bolt of lightening from Heaven,

Left: The general view of the interior. As said, much like any other Cathedral.

Right: Sitting inside one of the many side- chapels were these 'worshippers' wearing their sacred 'Ronaldo' T-shirts.

There is a museum attached which prohibits photography (why?) and features lots of display cases with elaborate golden shirts inside.

Right: This is the room which is set aside for the 'Patriarch' (I think that is what they call the head honcho) to get changed out of his jeans and T-shirt into more appropriate garb. I note it features 7 hats....one for each day of the week?

I went into a wine shop and had a look at what was on offer. Unsurprisingly port featured largely. If you 'click on' to this photo (left) to enlarge you may be as gobsmacked as I was to discover the price of these bottles. I will not be bringing one back. The cost of the middle one is more than I will spend in total on this trip! Just think, if you did take out a bank loan and bought it and when going through security at the airport, as it was over 100ml, it was confiscated or chucked in the bin! Or it got broken in transit...and badly stained one's clothes.

Tourist transport around the city included bus tours and lots of Thai-inspired tuk-tuks which have become popular in many touristy cities worldwide. There were also these quaint looking 'old' cars/taxis (right). I didn't try one so have no idea what it cost. Once I had sussed out the Metro and tram system everything else was in easy walking distance...and I needed the excercise!

Left: The Museo de Dinheiro (Money Museum) in the Plaça de Municipio. This was originally the HQ of the Portuguese Bank. Just another example of fine architecture which features so largely around the city. The city Post Office is on the other side of this square. 

Like many other touristy cities, Lisbon has it's fair share of beggars. You can never be sure if they are genuine or a scam. Many seem to feature dogs and cats to gain sympathy. This chap here (right) was sitting with two rather fat dogs. His sign read: "Help. I am deaf. I and Dogs need to eat". It raised the question as to why he kept them in the first place if he couldn't afford to feed them, and why they were so fat. I was tempted to tell him if he was that starving he could always eat the dogs! Of course I then realised that as he was deaf he wouldn't hear me.

Left: Quite a clever 'living statue'. I have seen many of these before but this chap put on quite a good performance and attracted several onlookers to wander around him trying to work out how he stayed airborne. I gave him 50c for his efforts.

That will have to do for the time being. I am well behind with this 'blogging' lark and have much more to report from Lisbon and the surrounding area. I must be slowing down.

TO PORTUGAL. ALGARVE

 7th - 13th  July 2023

Statues of 'plane spotters' at Faro airport

I departed from Southend airport (SEN) to Faro on the 7th July. SEN has changed since I was last there, working, 20 years ago. Having booked a one-way EasyJet flight through one of those 'cut-price' agencies, I had been well and truly tricked by, somehow, unintentionally booking my small cabin bag into the hold. Explaining to EasyJet (by phone) that I wanted it in the cabin overhead locker (which would have been cheaper) I was told that their 'system' could not allow me to change. Lesson learnt: find the cheap prices via the agency and then book direct with the airline, otherwise you have no comebacks. I actually confronted the very pleasant and helpful man at check-in to see if he could facilitate the change, ie. simply take my cabin bag on board and cancel the hold charge. He said he was not allowed to rebate my hold charge, and of course I could take it on board but that would cost me an extra £48! The basic seat price was only £66 and I had paid an extra £24 (inadvertently) for the unwanted hold baggage charge. He agreed with me that these 'cheapo' airlines made a packet from baggage charges. What a rip-off (and he tacitly agreed!). As it happened the overhead lockers on the 'plane were almost empty. 

Left: The departure lounge at Southend. It was very quiet, very efficient, uncrowded and rather pleasant. Southend is one of the more enlightened UK airports which now does not necessitate putting liquids into separate plastic bags, or anything else for that matter, it all just goes through the X-ray machine. I wonder when all other airports will catch on!

It was a late evening 2½hr and uneventful flight arriving at Faro at 11.30pm. There was quite a long Q at passport control and I got into the arrivals hall at 00.15hrs. Of course I had no accomodation booked, but sourced a cheap hostel within 20 mins walk of the airport. I decided to give it a go for a short sleep. Found it, and it was closed, so walked back. OK, no problem, a café was still open at 2.00am and after a cup of coffee and a sandwich I joined several other scruffy dossers and lay down for a kip on an airport bench (yes, I can still manage that). At 6.00am I found the airport bus stop and, after waiting 20 mins, caught a bus to the railway station (2 Euros). I was aiming to get to the town of Monchique 20 miles north up the mountains from coastal town of Portimāo . A very obliging ticket seller at the station sold me a ticket (3 Euros) to Portimão and told me where I could get a bus onwards from there. After another coffee the very slow train left at 7.10am for the 50 mile journey. It was a most interesting and enjoyable trip rattling along the coast and up into the hills on occasions. We stopped at 12 villages/towns before arriving at Portimāo at 8.30am. Another helpful official at the station gave me clear instructions (they all seem to speak decent English) on where to find the bus stop, a 10 minute walk, and which bus to get. At 9.15am the bus arrived (rather a comfortable one) with a helpful and polite driver. So far all the Portuguese 'officials' I have met have been so polite and helpful! 5 Euros for that journey and, after a 25 mile switchback ride up the mountains, I arrived in Monchique at approx 10.00am and settled into a very pleasant café/bar restaurant for a glass of Super Bok beer (1.50c Euro) while waiting for my hostess to collect me. I was amazed by how cheap and easy this journey was; bus and train total 10 Euros! It may not appeal to everyone but I rather enjoy this rough and ready way to travel.

Right: Amusing 'statues' at the bus stop in Monchique.

Left: Our 'villa' in the hills. It was surrounded by forest with a terraced garden in front. The only place you could get a photo of the place was from the road about a mile down the hill. There were to be seven of us living here, some for longer than others. Rather luxurious, with swimming pool, and spacious verandah where the eating and drinking and 'socialising' took place.

Right: The panoramic view south from the verandah to the town of Portimão on the coast. You can see the bit of road from where the photo above was taken in centre. The area is heavily forested and scattered with several other similar 'villas'. It was very quiet and peaceful. Actually it was not so quiet and peaceful in August 2018 when an enormous forest fire broke out which swept the area and involved over 1000 firefighters (some brought in from Lisbon) plus aircraft 'drenchers' to get it under control after several days. As a result things like barbeques are now banned (drones will spot them, I was told). The forest appears to have more or less regenerated. Our charming hostess was due to celebrate her birthday later in the week (after I had left). One hoped that the candles on her cake would not cause a similar catastrophe.

Left: After an evening meal. Life here consisted predominently of sleeping, cooking, eating, drinking, reading, sunbathing, dips in the swimming pool, a daily trip to the supermarket in Monchique for supplies (three of the residents had hired cars), much gossip and hilarity. There was a workable, if temperamental, WiFi connection. I specialised in the sleeping, eating and drinking categories. I'm afraid I'm not into swimming or sunbathing. A couple of us occasionally ventured about 10 minutes walk up the hill to a pleasant café bar, the Paraiso de Montagna, for a change of scenery.

On one day we all ventured out for lunch at the Café Inglês (right) in the picturesque and touristy small town of Silves, about halfway down to Portimão. It was a charming eatery, after a bit of getting lost finding the place, with most amusing and attentive waiters, and good inexpensive food. Recommended.

There is a large castle there which we visited after lunch. It was guarded at the entrance by this fiercesome looking chap. Can't remember who it is. Prince Marigold of Silves perhaps.

I don't think I took any photos of the battlements and walkways around them, but saw this rather odd little statue (right) in the centre. I think it looks rather rude, or maybe I'm imagining it.

Left: A vault below ground was virtually empty apart from this display; a native lynx, two foxes and a few rabbits. How fascinating, I thought.

The drive home was memorable for our car, not mine I hasten to add, hitting a pothole (yes, they have them in Portugal) and bursting a tyre. We staggered on to a garage where, with the aid of the staff at the garage, the temporary spare was fitted. Again, the chaps who assisted were remarkably cheerful and helpful. I continue to have a very good impression of the local Portuguese. The couple who hired this car were due to drive back to Lisbon (150 miles) the next day to catch their flight back to UK. Fortunately, on driving back through Monfique we spotted a tyre repair shop which was closed but open early the next day.

I had decided that I would leave the villa with them as I think, after five days, I had done enough 'villaring' for the time being and my wandering instinct was kicking in. It was a very pleasant stay, but I was keen to travel around the country.

So I left early on the morning of the 13th and was deposited in Monfique while the car was being reshod. Next, a bus back to Portimão, and I will continue the journal from there.

Right: Saw this rather extraordinary mounted aeroplane next to a school playground in Portimão. It seemed rather incongruous and out of place. I expect a plane 'spotter' will tell me what it is.

Much more to follow as I have got a bit behind with all this blogging business, and the 'action' of touristing is yet to come.

BITS AND BOBS

30th June 2023

A proper clock

I have been nowhere of any interest since returning from Vietnam in January. Various 'social' commitments have kept me at home in the increasingly frustrating environment of the so-called 'United' Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. It feels less 'united' by the day.

I am writing this now for no better reason than to check that my 'blogsite' is still functioning having not used it since the beginning of January. I thought I would start with a few random 'whinges' just to let off a bit of steam.

As someone who often travels through railway stations, ports, airports and other transport hubs, it is important to be kept aware of the time. OK, I have a watch and mobile phone which both tell the time, but is not a substitute for having a large time-piece hanging prominently in front of you. They used to be commonplace, but not now, as per the one pictured at the top. "Bring 'em back" is what I say.

One can't nowadays avoid all the 'hoo hah" concerning all this 'Trans', 'SIS', TERF, LGBTQIA+ nonsense. To be honest I have lost track of what it all means and who is what, or not. I clearly remember the days, not so long ago, when none of this was on the spectrum of anyone's thought process. Is a 'trans woman' a man pretending to be a female, or a female pretending to be a man? I have lost any comprehension and, frankly, interest. I think they just make an issue of it to wind us up! School-children are now busy winding up their 'woke' teachers by pretending to be cats, dinosaurs and vegetables. Good luck to them! 

Our politicians seem to have spent most of their time fighting over who had a party, or not, during the appallingly conceived 'lockdown' period. Again, I am just not interested and all the time and credibility wasted on this really does not alter the price of fish. Actually getting things done to improve the country takes second place. Indeed actually doing anything seems beyond their capacity. As always, it is all words, promises, plans, 'pledges' and intentions with absolutely no noticeable action (other than by many 'workers' in our institutions going on strike for 'more pie').

A serious problem in the past couple of months, where I live anyway, has been the lack of mail deliveries by our Royal Mail. I went for over two weeks without a delivery. This has never occurred before in my lifetime. To give one example of how this adversely affects us, people are receiving, if at all, letters for hospital appointments well after the appointed date.  It is, in my opinion, a more serious problem than most of the trivial issues which grab the headlines. Our local MP was made well aware of this and, of course, promised to take action by arranging an 'urgent' meeting with 'senior' Royal Mail management and would 'get to the bottom of the problem'. She (I think it is a 'she' but you never know nowadays) also promised to make a visit to our local distribution office to discuss the situation with the manager and would get back to us with an update of what is going on and what is being done about it. This was about three weeks ago. She never turned up at the distribution office (where a senior manager had made considerable effort to travel some distance to meet her) and, needless to say, we have heard nothing from her since regarding an update let alone action. It seems to be a politician's accepted tactic just to say they are going to do something and everyone, they hope, cheers. That is as far as it goes! 

Left: !!!!! From my local town. At what point do these gigantosauruses give up? "Its me metabolism to blame" they cry. This vast pile of flubber is so obscenely obese it can't walk and needs a mobility truck to go on the hunt for further burger shops to plunder.

Right: Another comparatively slim-line monster nearby.

I am pausing this load of rubbish now and publish to see if all is in working order. I might, when bored, add to it later. In the meanwhile I am packing my bag for a comparatively civilised trip, starting in Portugal. Never been there before. I hope to keep you informed, if not educated.