LAKE TAUPO - NEW ZEALAND

18th - 20th Jul 2011

Fishing on the Tongariro


I was introduced to Linton who lives, part time, in Russell. I expressed an interest in some local trout fishing. Linton is a man of many parts and originally from Canterbury District in the south island. He has been involved in such activities, amongst others, as possum control, rabbit monitoring, wine making, hiking, stalking, and forestry as well as sea and river fishing. He said he would take me for some trout fishing in a river he knew. 'Might stay overnight; bring enough kit'. Linton, his dog Honey and myself left Russell in his pick-up truck at 0800hrs on a bright sunny morning. Honey had to have the front middle seat, but she was good company. We drove down past Whangarei, Auckland, over the Bombay Hills, Hamilton, Taupo, past Lake Taupo, a large lake about 30 miles long by 30 miles wide, to Turangi on the southern shore. It was a fascinating drive past some magnificent countryside including most of the New Zealand ( racehorse ) stud farms around Cambridge. Trouble was we only stopped twice, briefly, for a snack, coffee and petrol, so not much time for photos. We arrived at our ( rather basic ) Motel, the Oasis, near Turangi, at 1645hrs, just in time to get some waders and a fishing licence for the next morning before the town closed down. Most shops close in NZ at 5.00pm. An 8 hour 45 minute drive! Phew, Linton has some stamina! I wasn't aware we would be going quite so far.

Left: The redoubtable Linton. He is standing beside an outlet of the river flowing through a gorge from Lake Taupo at it's northern end, on our way down. This is one hell of a powerful flow. If you fell in here you would be sucked under and unlikely to reappear alive.

Interesting area around Turangi. It is a 'geo-thermal' place where hot steam belches out of the hillsides and a 'geo-thermal' power station has been built at the base of the volcanic mountains just to the south ( haven't a clue how it works). These volcanos, Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and the largest, Ruapehu (9174 ft)
 are snow covered and provide good skiing at this time of year. Apparently lots of skiiers/snowboarders were out on the slopes. It is also a popular area for what the Kiwis term 'tramping', ie hiking. For some reason people like to climb up one side of these volcanos and down the other and get a bus back to where they started. It is not, however, the best time for trout in the rivers, but plenty of people were at it. We set off the next morning up the river Tongariro which flows from the mountains down into the lake. It is all 'public' fishing and you just obey courtesies of not interfering too closely if someone else is fishing a particular stream or pool. Only fly fishing is allowed. We walked up the riverside for an entertaining 40 minutes, and started to fish. Another guy we passed had already landed two 6 pound rainbow trout. You are permitted to keep a max of two fish.

Right: Linton and dog Honey. It is a very picturesque place and looked full of promise. We thrashed away at three or four likely streams fishing with both floating and sinking lines, up and down stream. Linton caught a 4lb rainbow. He was keeping it for his cat. I failed to get anything. As said, it is not the best time of year! There were many large ( probably 6-8lb brown trout lying in pools and visible from the banks but, I was told, these are develishly difficult to catch ). We had a picnic lunch, called it a day and went back to the truck. Not so successful, but at least a decent 'recce' for the future. There was time for a look around the local trout 'museum and hatchery' before heading south again. Onwards, past the central mountains over the 'desert road' on a plateau south of Turangi which looked rather like areas in the Scottish highlands, and contained the main NZ army training area. Forests, moorland and hills prevailed. There is a vast amount of national parkland here, and everywhere else for that matter. It was explained to me that it is possible for anyone to fish and stalk deer ( red and sika ) and wild boar on this land; all you need is the required firearms certificate or fishing licence. There seem to be very few, if any, private sporting estates. Sounds a bit dodgy to me, so I suppose you need to wear some pretty hi-viz clothing if you are out stalking! Maybe there is just so much empty space it scarcely matters.

On down through big sheep country of large grass covered hills, past the town of Taihape where they worship 'gumboots' and entertain hippies, through the wind-farm infested pass between the Tararua and Ruahine mountain ranges and eventually, at 1830hrs we reached Masterton where Linton's other half lives. Quite a journey and rather further than I had expected. I was generously fed and put up for the night, and thanks to Cathy for that. Next morning, off to Palmerston North about 1hr15mins away to catch the 'Overlander' train back up to Auckland. It was due to leave at 0945hrs and arrive in Auckland at 1940hrs.

Left: The Overlander. It was a great ride, as far as it went. Quite comfortable with a pleasant 'lounge car' at the tail end. The buffet/dining car had a good selection of things to eat and drink and wasn't, compared to most NZ food outlets, too expensive. There are only three passenger train routes in NZ, and this is the only one on the north island. It starts in Wellington and ends in Auckland, or vice versa.

Right: The lounge car at the rear end. A reasonable view and we were given a blow by blow commentary of the places of interest that we were about to pass.

Left: Some of the scenery....many viaducts over rivers were crossed. It was all very pleasant.....

Right: ........and  back past the volcanos south of Lake Taupo on the other, west, side of the national park. This one is the middle one called Mt Ngauruhoe. It is no wonder it is difficult to remember these extraordinary Maori names. The words all have a descriptive meaning. Ngauruhoe probably means something like 'white boil on wife's bum'. It is also likely to be a 'sacred' site, most are, which means I am in trouble if a Maori reads this.

Left: We had a pit-stop at a place called Okakune. It purported to be a 'skiing' village in the lee of the snow covered volcanos. The problem with the NZ skiing villages and accomodation is that they tend to be about an hour's drive from the snow. It was nice to get out to have a leg stretch, and I bought a jar of local chutney. Can't think why.

We continued our pleasant journey until we got to the township of Taumarunui ( black pig blowing bubbles, perhaps ), not quite halfway to Auckland where, unfortunately, the train broke down. Or, to be more precise, the electricity failed.

Anyway, we were put onto buses and continued up to Auckland that way, which was a bit of a disappointment. Arrived in Auckland rather late, but who cares.

All in all a most educational and extensive fishing trip. Much interesting information on all aspects of country life ( including all there is to be known about possums ) was gleaned from Linton who, I am sure, would be more than happy to take anyone on a 'sporting' expedition. I have his contact details if you are interested. I have now covered most of the north island and I haven't even started my tour of New Zealand yet.

Kia ora.........