MELBOURNE - AUSTRALIA ( PART 2 )

9th - 12th Sep 2011

From the Shrine of Remembrance balcony.

Continuing my brief exploration of Melbourne, I was most kindly accommodated by an ex-army friend and memsahib in the suburb of Hawthorn. Nice area. I forgot to ask if this was where 'Neighbours' came from. I was by now quite familiar with the city tram system, although it does have one flaw from which I suffered. The trams seem to stop at places not indicated on their route maps, and the stops are very badly marked and impossible to read at night. As most of the drivers do not announce where they are stopping it makes knowing where to get off, unless you are familiar with the area, somewhat difficult. A minor problem.



I got off by mistake at the Melbourne Shrine of Remembrance ( left ). This is quite an elegant and impressive memorial set in a well kept park area. It is to the memory of Aussie servicemen killed in all wars and features a crypt, memorial hall and gallery, a balcony on the top, and a museum and conference room on the ground floor. Worth a visit.









Right: A small but rather poignant memorial entitled 'Man with Donkey - Gallipoli. April 25 - May19 1915'. This was just outside the Shrine.
Nothing to do with the Melbourne Cup.








I went on a conducted tour of the Melbourne Cricket Ground, the famous MCG, or just the 'G' if you are a local. There were only 3 others in our group; an American nanny and a couple from Tasmania. Our guide, Graeme ( left ) is a long serving Melbourne Cricket Club ( MCC ) member. He was quite strict. His wife probably calls him 'G'. When myself and the nanny wandered off-route at some point we were given a serious bollocking and told only to go where he said we could or we would be thrown off the tour!
The MCC was started up in 1838 and the MCG has been in this spot ( in various forms ) since 1853.



At this time of year the place is set up for Australian Rules Football ( known as 'football' ). This game has a fanatical following, especially in Victoria and Tasmania. It is considered here, in south-east Australia, much more important than rugby, 'soccer' or even cricket! The Australian Football League ( AFL ) season is just reaching it's climax and so all  Melbourne is glued to it...they pay scant interest in the World Cup rugger. The Tasmanian couple were obviously devoted RFL fans. They talked of little else and were thrown into ecstasies when they spotted a well known 'football' player practicing on the pitch. I suspect Graeme was more of a cricket man, judging by his asides.


These are AFL players practicing. They wear what look like 'gym-slips' which, for some inexplicable reason, they call 'guernseys' and have to boot the rugby shaped ball, which they can pick up, between the centre posts for 6 points, and between the outer posts for 1 point. I think. The pitch is an oval. It involves lots of fights. Other than that my knowledge of the rules is non-existent. This game was started in 1860 as a pastime to keep the cricketers amused during the winter.
The grass on the pitch is replaceable ( in rolls ) and during the cricket season they have 'drop in' grass wickets. It all seems to work somehow, although the nature of the two sports could not be more different.


If you enlarge this photo ( right ) you might just be able to see towards the right end of the blue section in the 3rd tier a yellow coloured seat. This was installed to mark the spot where the 'furthest' six, to date, has been hit. It is at the opposite end to the batting crease ( i.e. over the wicket-keepers head ). I forget who hit it or the distance ( Graeme did tell us ). Or maybe it is Kiwi Craig's reserved seat ( he kept wicket for Northumberland in the 60s? ).

We were shown all the facilities at the ground, including the dressing rooms ( rather spartan ) and dining room where the cricketers go for their lunch and tea ( just a modest cafeteria ). Also the MCC 'Long Room' which is quite grand and, like that at Lords, now admits women and has a strict dress 'code'. Graeme waxed lyrical about that. He displayed pleasantly old-fashioned values.
Then down to the Sports Museum. This is impressive and, I think, unique in scope and scale. Certainly unrivalled by anything else in the world, I'm sure. It follows on from the Aussie enthusiasm for all sports, and exhibits the lot. Sections range from the Olympics of all eras ( they were held here in 1956 ), boxing, swimming, AFL ( a new big section ), horseracing, basketball, athletics, bicycling etc. etc. and, of course, cricket. In a small room there is a fascinating holographic 'presentation' of Shane Warne describing his career. It lasts for about 15 minutes and is so utterly realistic you actually think he is standing there in front of you. I walked in just after one of the 'showings' had started and apologised to him for interrupting! Has to be seen to be believed; I don't know how they do it. Unless it was Shane Warne.....but I came back later to check and 'he' was still doing exactly the same thing. There is also the MCC museum attached. Again, most impressive. Many original, mainly cricketing, exhibits on parade. I was given a blow by blow account by one of the charming and enthusiastic 'curators' of the history of the Ashes. I hadn't realised it was so complicated. The original little urn kept at Lords, containing, reputedly, the ashes of burnt bails, was given as a joke to the then English captain, Ivo Bligh, in 1882 when the team were on tour in Australia, by a daughter of the family he was staying with.  Bligh ( Lord Darnley by then ) returned two years later and married her. On his death in 1926 the urn was gifted to the MCC. That is why it is sometimes referred to as the Darnley Urn. I've probably got some of that wrong!



Next port of call was Flemington racecourse. This is the venue for the famous Melbourne Cup which is run on the first Tuesday in November and when the whole of Melbourne comes to a standstill. It is probably the greatest social, if not sporting, event in the Victorian social diary. It is a 25 minute tram ride ( No 57 if you are interested ) north-east from Elizabeth Street in the city centre ( CBD ).
The badge over the 'Walk of Fame' ( left ) is that of the Royal Victoria Racing Club of which Flemington is the home.




It is a very smart racecourse, almost on a par with Ascot or Cheltenham. Although the place was 'closed', there were workmen around so it was possible to clamber over most of it without anyone seeming to care, or notice. This photo ( right ) taken from the Grandstand gives a feel of the place. They also have a 'Hill Stand' and a 'Members' Stand' to the left, and other facilities on the inside of the course.







Left: Statue of the renowned trainer Bart Cummings who has trained no less than 12 winners of the Melbourne Cup. This is a feat that will never be bettered. He must know something the others don't.













Right: A poster display describing the history of the 'White Line'.
Rather a good idea if you ask me. If you click on to enlarge you will hopefully be enlightened.
















Left: A view across the finish.












Right: This is the 'lawn', to the left of the Members' stand. Lots of lovely roses are planted about the place. It is a sought after and prestigious viewing area adjacent to the track where much picnicking and promenading up and down with people in their finery showing off to their mates goes on. It probably all ends in much vomiting and brawling.








...and they even have a rose garden in tribute to the late Diana, Princess of Wales........!















Right: Set into the pavement down the Walk of Fame are plaques commemorating all the winners. This one is of the horse Archer, the first winner in 1861.














Left: In the new looking Docklands development on the south-west side of the river there are several things on display such as this tall ship, the Polly Woodside.
I am off to Tasmania next and will be travelling on the ship 'Spirit of Tasmania'. That bit of sea, the Bass Strait, has a reputation of being quite rough ( vis. lots of yachts sinking in the Sydney to Hobart race ). I will make sure I have a life-jacket and bottle of whiskey closely to hand.











Lastly, many thanks to my generous hosts, Mark ( wielding his flintlock ) and Honor ( blowing her horn ). It's an old family tradition.










OK, more to follow from Tassie.