FINALE - BERMUDA

22nd June 2018

Another typical little secluded cove.

There was an 18 mile long railway linking St. George's to Somerset Parish at the western end of the island known at the time as 'Old Rattle and Shake', which may give some indication of its quality. Anyway, it was closed down in 1948 but the old track is now called the 'Bermuda Railway Trail' and is, apparently, a delightful way to travel the length of the island on foot, bicycle or horseback. I'm sure it is but I chose not to. I took a scooter instead and went west, travelling down the southern side on South Road.

Left: The popular Horseshoe Bay in Warwick Parish (the island is divided into parishes). It was fairly crowded when I got there because I suspect a cruise ship had arrived and this place is on the tourist agenda.

A decent place for a dip I suppose and there is a pleasant bar and restaurant, plus showers and changing rooms behind the shoreline. As with everything here; not cheap. From the Rum Bum Beach Bar you can hire a 'sand-chair' for $15, snorkel for $25 and the 'VIP Package' i.e. small shelter, 4 deck-chairs and a bucket of distilled water, for $150! Distilled water in a bucket? Not my idea of the ideal beach refreshment! I thought it was something you put in car batteries.

Left: The Horseshoe Baby Beach next door, separated by a cliff and dunes over which you can climb. A pretty little beach which has shallow water and does not suffer from undertows as at the main beach and therefore considered more suitable for children. I suppose they all have their drawbacks.

On down through Southampton Parish (another swish golf course, the Port Royal) towards Somerset Village. On crossing Somerset Bridge over an inlet to the Great Sound you pass over what is termed 'the smallest drawbridge in the world' (right). This is simply a plank which opens about 18" to alow the masts of yachts to pass through. Hardly worthy of the term 'drawbridge' in my opinion.

Left: The sign which explains it all, if you can enlarge it to read.

I stopped for lunch at the enticingly named 'Somerset Country Squire Restaurant' on the northern side of the village. Not a bad place at all with a decent bar and friendly staff.

Entry to the outside dining area was through one of these popular 'moon gates'. On the sign outside was another 'NO LOITERING' warning. In fact it reads "Absolutely No Loitering In Or Around These Premises". Hang on! I thought that was what one was meant to do inside a bar/restaurant.

I asked if I could be excused for a short loiter while I had my lunch. I was duly granted permission.

Travelling further on I would have reached The Royal Dockyard, so went back the way I came and visited Gibbs Hill Lighthouse (right). This is a fully functioning lighthouse which was built in 1846. Made of cast-iron, it is 117' high and you can climb up a spiral staircase (185 steps) to the viewing platform, which I did. It has a $2.50 entrance fee which is probably the cheapest thing you can buy on the whole island. It is near Horseshoe Bay and overlooks another splendiferous golf course (The Turtle Hill Golf Club). I discovered that golf courses take up 17% of the island's 21.6 square miles.

Left: My trusty scooter which seemed to work OK but was a real bugger to pull back onto its stand and resulted in scraped knuckles and much swearing. They had removed the side leaning stands on all scooters because they were worried that they would fall over.

Right: A good view from the top of the lighthouse looking west towards Somerset Parish and on up north to the Royal Naval Dockyard. A very built-up island, and what you see here is considered the more 'rural' area.

Further east going back the way I came, I called in at the Coral Beach Country Club, on or near Elbow Beach in Paget Parish. A very posh club with, presumably, well-heeled members.

I made enquiries about membership which, although I could never imagine joining, at least gave me free rein to wander around and explore the place.

Right: The smart dining room, or one of them.

.....plus tennis courts....














...and immaculate croquet lawn. A strict dress code of 'whites' is applied here.

I had a word with the Club croquet 'professional' who is a charming ex-Brit called Robin Blackburne. He has worked at the Club for over 20 years. I took the opportunity to book my host in for an hour's coaching session, at $100 per hour. He wasn't made aware of this at the time, but I expect he has sorted something out by now with Mr Blackburne.

I mentioned previously that you cannot hire cars on the island. Many  tourists don't feel safe on scooters, so they have introduced a little electric powered vehicle called a 'Twizy' (made by Renault I think). These are like scooters on 4 wheels with a roof and have become popular. Not sure what their performance is like or how you charge them up. I haven't seen any in UK, or anywhere else, yet.

Well that just about covers most of what I experienced on my trip to Bermuda. A lovely place, if you can afford it.

So back to UK at the beginnning of a heat wave which brings out all the best sights in this lovely country of ours.

This royal throne of kings, this sceptred isle,
This earth of majesty, this seat of Mars,
This other Eden, demi-paradise,
This fortress built by Nature for herself
Against infection and the hand of war,
This happy breed of men, this little world,
This precious stone set in the silver sea,
Which serves it in the office of a wall
Or as a moat defensive to a house,
Against the envy of less happier lands,--
This blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England.

William Shakespeare, "King Richard II", Act 2 scene 1

....and bugger Brussels.