HAMILTON - BERMUDA

19th - 20th June 2018

Hamilton harbour

To Hamilton from St. George's by bus. The bus service around the island is normally quite good, when they are not on strike or 'go-slow' that is, which I experienced on my way back to St. George's from The Royal Naval Dock Yards the other day. I then had to get my host to collect me by scooter from the Hamilton bus station as there had been a 'work to rule' which meant leaving many people stranded and totally informationless.

This time the bus worked out OK and it is about 45 mins to Hamilton, the capital, on a north shore peninsular about halfway down the island. Not a bad sort of place with some fairly upmarket looking office buildings, no doubt where all these insurance and re-insurance businesses are based.

Left: Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity on, unsurprisingly, Church Street near the centre. Quite an imposing building but I didn't bother to go inside.

There are lots of decent shops and shopping 'malls' but, surprisingly, few outdoor cafés along the harbour front (Front Street) or elsewhere. Most of the bars and restaurants seemed to be in upstairs locations. Room for improvement here, I felt. One aspect of Bermuda I really admire is that there are no foreign 'fast food' franchises. They are banned. Actually one, a Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet, sneaked in before they were made illegal and it still exists. Apart from that none of the dreadful US obesity and diabetes outlets exist. What a refreshing change from anywhere else on the planet (apart from North Korea). 

Right: An amusing statue outside the ferry terminal. A cox at the back but I couldn't quite work out how they propelled themselves.

Left: There are several ads around town to encourage you to join the Royal Bermuda Regiment. Bermuda has a long history of British military occupation with many famous old Regiments having been stationed here. Now they just have the Royal Bermuda Regiment which, I am sure, is a force to be reckoned with. Apparently they have a pipe band which, if nothing else, would probably strike fear into any invaders.

Right: The Cabinet Building, Bermuda's Senate. The 'Opening of Parliament' is held here involving the British Governor in full regalia, plumed hat and horse-drawn carriage etc. before the Parliament descends into normal long-winded and tedious debates. 

Open to the public on Wednesdays, when in session, if you are interested.

Out of curiosity I took a walk along Front Street to the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI). It is quite a high-tech museum of things underwater (I don't mean the museum is underwater of course) but actually not that interesting, and very few visitors while I was there.

There is a simulated 'journey' in a capsule to the bottom of the ocean which attracted a few of us sparse visitors. We first had to wait for ages because the guy running it didn't turn up on time. Having sat ourselves down in a sort of cabin with bench seats it took us through some 3D action descending to the depths. It involved close encounters with a giant squid but, on the whole, despite some reasonable visuals, was a very disjointed trip and, frankly, rather silly and uninspiring.

There were various deep-sea things on display, including a vast collection of sea shells. Yawn (if you are not into that sort of thing). 

Left: A modern type of diving suit.

Right: An old fashioned type of diving suit.

Left: ...and a replica of the original Bathysphere.

Then on up the hill on the west side to Fort Hamilton (right). A moat ringed fortress built in the 1860s as a defence for the west end's Naval Dockyard.

There are several old cannons on display and underground chambers for accommodation, magazines and storerooms. 

Left: A large cannon, but I don't understand how it worked. If it ever did.

Right: A 'gun pit' which, if you can enlarge and read the sign, says 'Gunpit For Montcrieff. Disappearing Carriage'. Well, whatever was there has certainly disappeared. 

Left: ...and a few well tended gardens around the outsides.

OK, Fort Hamilton was not very inspiring but you get good views over the harbour.

I passed, as everywhere on this island, lots of churches of various strange denominations including a 'Seventh Day Adventist' shop. I popped in and asked "what exactly is a Seventh Day Adventist?". I got the same reaction as when I asked the Tourist Info lady about 'loitering'; vis a blank stare because they thought I was bonkers.

I then took a long walk up to the northern heights to see Government House (right), the seat of the resident British Governor. This grand house sits up on the high ground with  lovely views both north and south and has a large area of well tended gardens. I was told that these gardens are the largest area of uninhabited land on the island. 

It was here, after dinner, at midnight on 10th March 1973, that the then Governor, Sir Richard Sharples, was assassinated by a Black Power fanatic, along with his ADC, Capt Hugh Sayers, and his dog, a Great Dane called Horsa.

I eventually found my way to the front guard post and asked the guard (ex-Royal Bermuda Regiment) if there was any chance of going inside. He told me that the Governor and his ADC (Royal Bermuda Regiment) were away; they probably saw me coming. I chatted him up and passed admiring comments on his chestful of medals. He was charming but "no, I had to leave" and was not encouraged to wander around the grounds. So I did anyway. 

Left: The front door.

There are two decent tennis courts here and dozens of trees of various description planted by  visiting Royalty, Presidents and prominent politicians, all with plaques to commemorate the planting. You name 'em, they've planted it. (Duke of Edinburgh, President Carter, Harold MacMillan, John Major, Princess Anne etc. etc.) and this one (right) by Margaret Thatcher.

On my way back down to the town I passed, in the middle of nowhere, this establishment (left).

I had to call in. After ringing the bell 'for service' and some delay I was enthusiastically greeted by an old lady called Emelda, and her little dog (Mitzy), who were standing behind a counter surrounded by some fairly tawdry items of their trade. I suspect she gets very few visitors and was glad for the opportunity of a chat. She even invited me to stay for some food and a drink but, sadly, due to other pressing engagements, I had to decline.

There are many Poinciana trees like this around the place (right). Very colourful and several more exuberant than this one.

.....and a humorously named Jamaican food shop (left).

There was to be a 'street party' on Front Street that evening and I decided to attend. They had closed off the street to vehicles and many stalls were set up selling a variety of local goods. All very jolly and the local Bobbies were out in their hi-vis jackets. I must say they are a very jovial bunch.

Left: A Town Crier was on duty to advise and assist the passers-by. I didn't hear him doing much 'crying' but he was popular for photo opportunities. There was a US cruise ship docked nearby so no shortage of volunteers.

The main attraction that evening was a performance by Gombey dancers (right). Gombey dancing is a throw-back to African/Caribbean heritage and consists of a 'leader' who coordinates a whole gang of colourfully dressed and masked dancers with tall feathery hats to the sound of very loud drums. 

Left: The 'leader', I think.

Right: A 'Gombey huddle' where, perhaps. they decide on the next moves.














Left: ...and there were some solo performances by a few small Gombeys, to much applause.

A very photogenic ensemble and I took loads of pics. It went on for a long time.

Back by bus to St. George's. We (my host, who had been working that day, and I) decided to go for a drink at the St.George's Club which caters for a wealthy estate of houses on the north side of the town. We had been there before for a meal and had met the barman/manager. He is/was a very dour Scotsman who did not appear to exude much bonhomie. On arrival (not too late) we went to the bar, at which were standing a couple of people (his mates?), asked for a drink and were told "we're closed". "Why is that" we politely asked. "Cos there's nae any customers" he replied. "Well we are customers" we suggested. "Aye, weel we're still closed". I suspect he is not happy in his job and I don't think they will be making much of a profit. Hey ho! 

I haven't yet finished with Bermuda....one more to come from the western parishes.