Wednesday 30 October 2019

MORE KYOTO. DAY 2

17th - 18th Oct 2019



I decided to take a look (on behalf of a reader who suggested it) at the Kyoto Railway Museum. It was within walking distance of my hotel, just west of the main station. The walk took me through Umekoji Park in which I got lost until I met a crocodile of small schoolchildren whose teacher I think said (English is not well understood outside the tourist spots)  she was taking them to the museum. So I decided to follow, and I got there. In case you are worried I am NOT a 'spotter' or 'anorak' or 'railway nerd'! Neither do I make a habit of joining in at the rear of a crocodile of schoolchildren.

Left: Incidentally I noticed several of these very well behaved strings of children at various places on their way to museums and suchlike. Each group was identified by colour coded hats...useful for the teachers to identify their little charges if they ran off. 









The museum, on three floors, is incredibly smart and modern with a large outside display area. It has many interactive displays and amusing dioramas plus a large restaurant.
Did you know that it was a Scottish gentleman, a merchant and industrialist called Thomas Glover (1838-1911), who built the first Japanese railway? He was also involved in shipping and importing things like armaments to Japan. He features quite prominently around the country as I came to discover.

There were lots of ancient and modern trains on display as you might expect, including a model of the yet to be put into service Shinkansen Alpha X. This train will travel at over 400kph.

Right: This is not it.








Left: A restaurant car serving breakfast when I went past.












Right: There is a magnificent model railway, about 40 paces in length, which runs through a complex computer controlled night and day programme featuring all kinds of train presently in service. Impressive.









Left: A pedal powered machine which ran around a rail track. Popular with the youngsters. Behind it is one of the newer bullet trains.











Right: This, as I'm sure you recognise, is a fine example of a 151 Series electric railcar hollow shaft meter type parallel Cardan driving bogie.












Left: One of several groups of hat colour-coded schoolchildren. The orange group.














Right: The turntable outside surrounded by engine sheds which were all occupied by various ancient engines.











Left: There is a working steam engine which makes short trips down a line and back taking passengers. I didn't go on it because the next trip would have delayed me and anyway I thought that it would have been a bit boring just sitting in one of the open sided carriages; going nowhere.










Right: The driver on the footplate. It made a very loud 'whistle' before setting off, and produced much steam and smoke.
....and he's wearing white gloves, of course.

Left: A display was dedicated to old and modern railway logos. There were hundreds of them. I pick out these two only because I was hoping one would read 'Kamikaze'.

For some reason there was no mention of the contribution made to Japanese railways by British and Allied  POWs in WW2.






Right: Off next to Nijo-Jo (Nijo Castle) which is near the old Imperial Palace in the north-west part of the city. It was the fortress of the Shoguns, built in 1603 and surrounded by a moat and substantial walls 










Left: The moat was teeming with carp which swarmed to the surface, mouths agape, if anyone chucked a bit of bread in. I noticed some small children who thought this was fascinating and, not having any bread to throw in, threw in pebbles instead. I don't think the fish can have been very impressed. The greediest ones probably sank.






There is an impressive palace inside which housed the Shogun and his entourage to demonstrate the Shogun's prestige and to signal the demise of the Emperor's power. 









One walked around a series of long (squeaking) passageways past many rooms which were mostly empty but had elaborate murals on the walls (left). We were informed that most of these were replicas; the originals are in a museum. Again, photography was strictly prohibited.

The Shogun was a bit paranoid about security and as a precaution he had 'nightingale' floors fitted which make squeaking noises when you walk on them making it difficult for any intruders to move about quietly, as well as concealed chambers where bodyguards could keep watch. They certainly did squeak a lot.

One room (right) had some figures in it supposedly representing outlying Provincial leaders being addressed by their boss. 











Around the Palace are some rather magnificent gardens (left) and there is a pleasant 'tea shop' where I stopped to enjoy a cup of tea and tasty bit of cake with jam and thick cream. Their equivalent of a Cornish scone I suppose.










Right: Just outside the castle is a shop selling Samurai swords. There was a large selection and a security buzzer to get in.















.....with good reason as some of them were very expensive. This one (left) had a price tag of 270,000 Yen (over £2000). 










Right: There are lots of these box-like cars about the town. I also noticed them in Yokohama and Kushiro. They are of different makes; ugly, but are obviously very popular,










On walking back to the station I also saw this gentleman driving a Morgan (left) out of a garage. He was more than happy for me to take the photo and I rather hoped he would give me a lift. No such luck.










Wherever you walk the chances are you will pass a garden like this (right). They like their gardens with trees, ponds and ornamental bridges. They don't much go in for flowers.
My garden specialises in weeds.










The following morning I decided to take a stroll up to the Higashi-Hongan-ji, the Eastern Temple of the True Vow. It is just north of the railway station. I was told the Buddhist monks there do a lot of 'chanting'. Unfortunately, as I discovered, they do it at 6.00am which is an inconvenient time of day because I am asleep then.

Left: The main gate.





Right: The grandiose buildings inside. The Main Hall is supposed to be the second largest wooden structure in Japan. Again, photography inside is strictly forbidden and there are 'wardens' to watch you.









Left: In the courtyard is this drinking fountain with an elaborately carved statue of a swan (I think) at one end. The water comes out of its beak. You are meant to take a sip of water using silver spoon-like things left on the side (on chains!) and presumably offer up a prayer, or something. I did and, so far, have not suffered any ill effects.

Right: Inside the Main Hall. Many empty rooms with murals but the main one houses lots of Buddhas including this big one sitting on his throne surrounded by very gaudy golden decoration. I expect this is where the monks do their chanting.

Kyoto is a pleasant city, I concluded, with many interesting things to see and do.

I departed on the 11.46am Shinkansen for Hiroshima. More to come from there.



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