BACK TO BANGKOK

9th - 12th Jan 2022

The Grand Palace Bangkok

Back from Kanchanaburi to Bangkok by train and a reverse journey of the one getting there. Similar number of many stops and the same train sounding as if it still had its brakes on.

We arrived at Thonburi at 6.00pm and the 15 minute walk back to the ferry pier. A bit of hassle there as I discovered that all the ferries going back down-river stop operating at 6.00pm. There was one that just took you, free of charge, across the river, so I had to take it. I had no idea where I was on the east side of the river, a long way from my hotel, and nobody at the pier spoke any English. I would have to get a taxi! Aaaagh! By good fortune a charming young nurse who spoke good English and saw my difficulties offered to find and negotiate for me a taxi to the nearest MRT or BTS (Skytrain) station. She found one and discussed the fare with the driver. 100 Baht (£2.50) was the estimated fare. With my sceptical view on taxis I was confident that I would be ripped-off. It was a 30 min drive to a BTS station, and the taxi meter indicated 77 Baht (£1.90) and that is what he charged. I was so impressed I gave him 100 Baht. My faith in Bangkok taxis and, not least, in helpful Thai nurses, was restored.

Talking of hotels, I had by chance found an excellent bargain at one called The Red Planet at 178 Surawong Road (Parallel to Silom). Great en-suite room, wi-fi, and location and all for 550 Baht pn (£13 approx). I merely mention it in case anyone reading this intends to go to Bangkok and is searching for accommodation.

Left: A restaurant at the ferry pier. It seems to have adopted a rather rude 'Scottish' name. Reminded me of a station we stopped at on the way back called 'Hokai Theinu'.

I decided to pay a 'cultural' visit to the Grand Palace on the east bank of the river. It is contained in an extensive crenellated white walled complex (1km x 1km) and features a large and ornate Wat (temple) inner compound as well as many other buildings. The Palace itself (see photo at top) is now rarely used by the Royal Family, perhaps only for a few formal occasions. In fact the present King seems mainly to reside in Germany.

There are several very 'grand' buildings near the compound including this one (right) which is the Ministry of Defence.

Left: Be-masked mounted soldiers were patrolling the outer perimeter. I'm surprised the horses weren't also wearing masks.

Right: These 'gate guardians' are called 'yaksha'. They are giant ogres from some Hindu mythology.

It was a right faff getting inside the complex with lots of checks at about 4 desks (Covid temperature check of course) before you even got to the place where you paid for entry. It was 500 Baht (£12), so not cheap. Thankfully (as everywhere) there were very few tourists, so little delay.

The Wat compound had many ornate stupas, spires and other buildings. The central 'hall' (right) called the 'böht' is where the revered Emerald Buddha resides. 

I got a bollocking from guards inside the hall for a) taking photos, and was forced to delete them and b) for sitting on the floor with my feet (shoes off of course) pointing towards the Buddha. Lots of praying by a few locals was going on. I had to stand outside to take the photos. No problem there.The Emerald Buddha is the little figure far centre.

Right: The Buddha is only about 3ft tall and, despite its name, is carved from nephrite, a type of jade.

I don't suppose there were more than a dozen tourists wandering around the place. They were vastly outnumbered by guides, wardens and security personnel. There were several signs ordering us, quite unnecessarily, to "maintain social distance". This one (left) stated, for some unfathomable reason "Group photo is not allowed here". 

They are keen on their warning signs. This one (right) seemed to be stating the rather obvious. 

Talking of cars, crossing a main road in Thai cities can be a time consuming and hazardous process. Unlike Vietnam where the traffic is 90% scooters with no pedestrian crossings, you just walk across any busy road and the scooters effortlessly and uncomplainingly flow around you, in Thailand the traffic is predominantly cars. They are driven by often very aggressive drivers. There are pedestrian crossings marked, but with no traffic/pedestrian lights, and you can wait for a long time for a safe gap in the traffic. The cars pay no heed to the crossings, or to speed limits, or to pedestrians! I suspect there are many casualties.     

Left: A smart sentry on one of the gates. He didn't want his photo taken. Perhaps he thought someone might recognise him!  

I took a longish (30 min) walk to Rommaneenart Park, east of the Palace, to have a look at what is advertised as the 'Corrections Museum'. I think I might have been there before and recorded it in a previous blog (OMPITA research will know), and was fascinated. It is in a former jail on the edge of the park and featured all sorts of gruesome models that re-enact Thai-style punishments and executions. When I got there it was, as is so much in this city nowadays, closed. You could see into the empty cells, but all wired off. I took a wander into the almost deserted park (via a guard who took my temperature and made me sign a visitors book). The cafés were closed but several gardeners hard at work. Not very inspiring.

Right: There were many monks about the place. These two were busy on their mobile phones.

It was about this time (12th Jan?) that the ever cautious, some might say erratic or even paranoid, Thai government imposed further arbitrary restrictions on tourists entering the country. They also imposed a 9.00pm curfew on alcoholic drinks served in bars and restaurants (why?). Of course there were some bars etc., undoubtedly 'sanctioned' by the powers that be (like, I suspect, the police who owned them) that stayed open. As far as the local economy goes they really know how to shoot themselves in the foot.

That will do for the time being.............