TALLY HO! TO TIRANA

17th - 18th Nov 2023

The Albanian Flag

Onwards to Albania. The transport to Tirana was this 'HAK' operated minibus (left). It was half full when we pulled out of Skopje for the 7.5 hour trip. There would be several stops en-route to drop and pick up passengers. I had managed to bag a single seat near the front door with plenty of leg room. Our first driver was a stoutly built gent who, refreshingly un-PC, had a cigarette in his mouth for the most of his stint driving.

Right: Leaving Skopje through extensive suburbs. After about an hour we stopped at a garage where there was a driver change (the previous one had probably run out of cigarettes), and a few more passengers embarked. Skopje lies in a wide valley which, as we progressed westward narrowed until we passed through the Mavrevo National Park. The valley closed in and we became surrounded by a beautiful forested and mountainous landscape. I think part of the Sharr mountain range. It was impressive.

We had brief stops at Tetovo, Gostivar, Kercove and Struga before reaching the Albanian border. The border passport checks were straightforward with not much of a delay. Somewhat similar for Albanians, without passports, arriving in paddle-boats on the south coast of England I suppose.

Onwards into Albania where the landscape became progressively more dramatic. We were now hair-pinning down zig-zag roads on the side of some vertiginous forested hillsides. The surrounding countryside was, to say the least, rugged with tall mountains in the background and some sheer rocky cliffs on either side of us. We also followed alongside various large rivers. I have no idea which.

There was a refreshment stop at a café somewhere in Albania, the first one long enough to get out and have a coffee/pee/cigarette or whatever you fancied. Sitting in an adjacent seat to me was a pleasant Danish guy and his partner/wife/girlfriend (or whatever you are allowed to call them nowadays). We had a bit of a chat. He had been a mine-clearing engineer in the Danish army.

There were a few stops in Albania (I didn't take note of where) and we passed or stopped at some filling stations. Left: Most of which were designated 'Kastrati' which to my mind sounds rather unfortunate.

We arrived at the main bus station in Tirana on schedule at 4.30pm. I must say I was impressed by our driver who had negotiated some challenging terrain for over 6 hours, relaxed and without any problem. I exchanged a 'high five' in appreciation.

It was a pleasant afternoon and I decided to walk to  the cut-price hotel I had booked on the opposite side of the city centre. After getting some cash from an ATM (Albanian Lek - £1 = 134 Lek) and a refreshing glass of beer at a nearby and very smart café, I got my bearings and set off across the city. It was getting dark but my initial impressions were of a bright, clean and prosperous, well lit city with a mass of nice 'up-market' shops and respectable looking inhabitants. I followed my nose, the directions on Google Map (at the café) and (what a useful tool) the help of a 'silva-compass' which I always carry, and reached the hotel after a 40 minutes walk.

En-route, and before I have even done any research on where to go next, apart from my hotel, or what to see, I passed a few sights. Not far from the bus station on Rruga e Durrësit (all streets are 'Rruga'. Can't think why they bother with 2 'r's) was this well illuminated statue of Adem Jashari. I discovered that he was the founder of the Kosovo Liberation Army, Hero of Kosovo. He, and his family, were killed by Serbian police in 1998 aged 42.

Then on to the main square, the vast Skanderbeg Square (left) in the centre of town. It is paved with some form of marble and very shiney. I expect it becomes rather slippery when wet. A revolving multi-colour changing Ferris wheel was at the southern end.

On across the square to join Rruga Hoxha Tahsim (his name lives on) along which was my hotel (the Driti, at £20pn). Made it!

Having checked in, and here I discovered that many hotels don't accept credit cards (although most retaurants do). I was told that there have been 'scams' where customers have had their accounts emptied after using cards. The charming and helpful receptioniste trusted me to find cash and pay the next day. After putting my kit in my room (three floors up and no lift) it was still early enough to go out and have a look around. I discovered that around the centre there are more cafés, bars and restaurants that you can shake a stick at. Most if which look, and are, very smart and inviting. I ended up in a pleasant eatery towards the main square and had a delicious 'spag bol'. All the staff of restaurants and hotels that I have met so far seem to speak excellent English. My first impressions, after being in Tirana for only a few hours, are that it is a clean, modern, affluent and rather jolly place. The locals appear smart, well turned out and helpful. I was expecting somewhere poorish and downbeat. Far from it!

More to follow......