TOURING TIRANA

 18th -19th Nov 2022

Tirana City Coat of Arms

I spent the first day in this city generally wandering around and reconnoitering potentially useful places, starting with the Tourist Information Office to the north of the central plaza, the vast Scanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) and obtained  a vital Street Map. I had not, as is my normal practice, brought a guide book with me. Left: As per the main Square, many of the walkways, other squares and pavements were paved with this marble-like surface. Very attractive, but when wet dangerously slippery. And, as I came to discover over the next few days, I had arrived in what is obviously the 'wet' season, unless it is wet all year round. Indeed, on the first day it started to drizzle and the lady in the tourist office put me off any out of town trips due to impending even more rainy weather. At least it wasn't cold.

I was amazed by the proliferation of smart and cheerful bars, cafés and restaurants, some very sophisticated and probably expensive. In most of the main streets (Rrugas...with 2 'rr's) they were lined up next to one another, and in every square, and were well patronised. Left: This, Sophie's Café, is but one example of hundreds.

Right: Of course there were the universal (apart from in India and perhaps Pakistan) 'Oirish Bears'. I found two of them. Actually they only paid lip-service to being Irish with nothing particularly Irish about them except that they sold Guiness.

Left: There was also an extraordinary number of barbers' (berbers) shops. There were three in the same street as this one, and many others in other streets. What is it about Albanians that demands such a large number? Does their hair grow quicker here than in other countries? Maybe it is something to do with the rain? There is a large Turkish community here (I am told) and I know they are renowned for their barbers. I rarely need one nowadays.

Talking about the vast number of bars, eateries and other hospitalty venues such as the many hotels plus currency exchanges (loads of these) and other service outlets here; they are all well run and well staffed, exclusively by Albanians. Why is it that they can do this whereas in UK, where we have a large number of 'unemployed', our hospitality venues depend to a very great extent on immigrant labour? Could it be that in UK people are well enough paid on 'welfare' to do bugger all? One hardly dares  mention it.

The staff in these venues all appeared to speak reasonable, and sometimes good, English. They are taught English at school and Albanian is a unique language. It has no commonality with any other, not even with the other Balkan states,  so I suppose that is the incentive. It is interesting that Albanian is one of the most ancient of languages. Look up 'Illyrian' and find out more. At least I found it interesting.

Right: Traffic was busy, especially so at the rush hours, and there were very well coordinated and controlled pedestrian crossings on the main streets. Lights, which sometimes ran down the height of the posts (not shown here) counted you down to crossing and most people stuck to the rule, but not pedantically so. If there were no cars coming, people did use common sense and cross despite being on red. (unlike, as I have experienced, robotic Germany and Australia).

Left: There was a degree of imagination shown with  the colouring of the crossings.

Right: Jolly musical groups played at various locations, and were quite skilful. However there were one or two 'solo' artists (I use the word loosely) who were less tuneful and strained the ears a bit who just seemed to blow into, or strum, something noisily to attract attention and, optimistically, a donation. They had probably been kicked out of a band.

Left: The Ferris Wheel at the southern end of the Square was well used when it was not raining. No, I didn't have a ride.

Right:.........and it lit up at night with changing colours. 

Left: There was also a roundabout and some trampolines at the southern end of the Square. That kept the children amused, when it wasn't raining.

Right: Standing next to the statue of Gjergj Kostriot Skënderberbeu (after whom the main Square is named). He was a 15th century Albanian Feudal Lord and military commander who led a successful rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in this part of the world. He is a national hero.

Left: Of no particular interest, but I passed this little stand selling ice-cream. I tried one of them (the one 3rd from left at front). It was some raspberry concoction. I am no ice-cream afficionado, but it was absolutely delicious. I had a second!

Right: The City Hall. 

That will have to do for now. Plenty much more interesting stuff to report, but I am on the move tomorrow and it will probably have to wait until I get home in a couple of days time. Gjithë urimet e mia më të mira!