ON TO NHA TRANG

19th - 23rd Dec 2022

The packed beach at Nha Trang

It was a Futa bus again, a daylight journey this time leaving at 11.00am, in which I travelled from Dalat to Nha Trang. It was another of those bunk-style 'sleeper' buses; I would have much preferred a normal seat.

Right: At least the bus was fairly empty and I had a lower bunk this time (recommended by the lady who sold me the ticket. I must have looked suitably decrepit) right at the back of the bus and the adjacent bunk was vacant on which to put my bags. There were plug in sockets for phones/computers etc. but I couldn't work them out.

The distance to the seaside city of Nha Trang is about 140km to the north-east and the journey was going to take in the region of 3 hours. 

Leaving Dalat I was again impressed by the mile upon mile of plastic covered flower nurseries (left). In some places as far as the eye could see. 

These photos taken from the bus are poor due to a) It was a struggle to look out of the window from the prone position b) as always, when you see something to photo, it has disappeared by the time you get your camera out and focused c) It was a very twisty road.

The road descended in an alarming zig-zag down the mountains hugging the valley walls. The scenery was dramatic with towering cliffs above and descending below. There were some spectacular waterfalls and views a long way down into wide mist covered valleys. There was no way I could manage to photograph all this. Right: This snatched, out of focus view, gives you some idea. The road itself was impressively built...I believe quite recently. Someone told me by the Chinese, but not sure about that, although the Chinese seem to be buying up the world's infrastructure (vis. the railways in Serbia from a previous blog!). 

We stopped somewhere at the bottom of the mountains for a coffee/pee break. Vietnam is a major coffee producer but I still haven't got to enjoy the Vietnamese style of coffee which is served, either hot or iced, in thimble sized cups, and it is very bitter and strong taken 'black'. They often like it very sweet with condensed milk. While here a local (I assumed) generously gave me what he called a 'bamboo rice' to eat; a local delicacy he told me. It was a 12" long tube of bamboo with sticky rice packed inside which you had to squeeze out with a plunger. He was watching me in anticipation of my ecstasy. I politely ate as much as I could....it was not delicious.

We arrived in Dalat at the well out of town bus depot at 2.30pm and, studiously avoiding the persistent and pestilential rip-off taxi drivers, was shown to a 'complimentary' minibus which delivered me, free of charge, to my hotel.

The hotels here deserve a mention. I had booked, on spec, into the Areca hotel. It was at the northern end of the city, which is not the end to be at, as I discovered. However, this hotel which was 20 stories high, was extremely comfortable. It was most definitely of 4* quality, and it cost £15 per night! A bargain! Left: A photo to give you some idea of the room.

Right: It was a vast room with a large flat-screen TV which had English speaking news channels. There were comfortable chairs, a good writing desk with plenty of power points, a top-of-the-range bathroom and this enormous window with a panoramic view over the roof-tops towards the sea. I just hoped I didn't sleepwalk! Plus, breakfast was included.

I'm not sure if it is 'out of season' here, but there seemed surprisingly few tourists around the place. On the two mornings I had breakfast in the very large dining room which served a splendid selection of food, there were only three other guests (and it didn't look to me as if there had been any others in previously). The last time I was here (admittedly 10 years ago) at this time of year the city was thronged with tourists. Someone told me that the Chinese had made up about 60% and Russians 20% of tourists in the past. Well, Messrs Xi and Putin have put an inglorious stop to that malarky!

The city is packed with hotels; indeed they are wall to wall down the seafront including some vast swanky 35 storey jobs. The website I visited to book listed 556 hotels of varying size. And that was only one website of many. I began to think that you could put all the present tourists into one of the 35 storey hotels and they would still have rooms spare.

The beach here runs in a crescent, north to south, for about 4 miles. The main 'touristy' area with the most bars/restaurants is about ⅔ down towards the southern end. As such, after two nights I decided to move to a hotel in this area. Again, there was an infinite choice and I ended up in an equally lavish establishment, the DTX Hotel, for £15 pn. 

The beach was, for the most part, deserted. The sea, which was a cloudy grey/brown colour (sand), produced some big waves. There were only a few intrepid souls swimming, or paddling. This place (left) offering surfboards, and instruction, did not have any customers. There was also a continuous on-shore breeze, quite strong at times.

There were a couple of decent watering-holes which I frequented; The Sailing Club restaurant (poor photo right) and a pleasant open-air beachside bar called Blue Seas. 

The last time I was here, in 2012, I visited an island, Hôn Tré, about a mile off-shore which contained a small version of Disneyworld with 'faux' fairytale castles, casinos, funfairs and stage performances etc. It is called Vinpearland. It was rather fun, relatively cheap and you got over to it by a cable car from south of the southern end of the beach. I decided to pay another visit.

I had seen the cable car pylons in the distance. I walked, and I had well underestimated the distance, for an hour and a half to get to what was the terminus.  Left: The Vinpearland island. When I got there, 'woe upon woe' the pylons were there, but no cables. The terminus no longer existed. It was all gone! (and websites were still advertising it). I subsequently discovered that the cable car has been shut down for over a year "awaiting repair" with no foreseeable reopening. Also, the cost of a 'day trip' over in a boat, including an entry fee to the Vinpearland park, was now approaching $80! I gave up.

Right: Vinpearland at night. The large Ferris wheel, on the left, was illuminated with a changing light sequence. Looking at it by day however, the wheel itself was never revolving. I have a feeling that (lack of tourists?) many of the facilities there were probably closed.

Walking along the beach area one encountered several old ladies carrying, slung over their shoulders, large boards (6ft x 8ft) displaying sunglasses of differing styles. I counted about 80 specs on each board. I never saw them sell one. More in hope than expectation I think.

As with other Vietnamese 'resorts', there are many of these garishly lit 'tri-shaws' parked at street corners. They hassle you, inoffensively I may add, as you walk past, saying "where you going?" etc. I respond politely rather than tell them that 'where I am going is no business of yours!'. Similar to that ubiquitous Vietnamese/Thai salutation "Youwantaxi".

All along the seafront between the beach road and the beach is a grassy area with many exercise contraptions. The locals seem to enjoy using them (right). I joined in with one; the hand-wheel thing. For the life of me I couldn't work out what good it was likely to do me. This chap was obviously very 'health conscious' by wearing a face-mask. A 'TIM'.

Left: Another rather pointless 'exercise' machine. They might just as well go for a good walk. Having said that you don't see any fat Vietnamese. Diet? Exercise? Genetics? They set a good example unlike the many flabby obese monsters that wobble around the streets in UK.

One of the common items on many Vietnamese menus is the 'Phở bò', a beef noodle soup with beansprouts and aromatic green leaves of some sort (or it could be chicken, pork or fish). I think it is delicious and cheap and healthy. I eat it regularly. This menu (right) had no fewer than 4 pages dedicated to different varieties, all costing just over £2. Somewhat of an improvement on the dreaded MacDonalds junk.

In the evenings there was always a 'song and dance' performance at a stage on the beachfront. Some of the acts were very cleverly choreographed and jolly. Left: Another poor photo. I took a video of one act and will try, probably fruitlessly, to download it here later. I don't have much luck with these things.

I spent three full days here and did or saw nothing out of the ordinary, but it was a relaxing time, the weather was warm and I happily idled about in some comfort. For the more adventurous there are many islands off-shore which offer, apparently, great scuba diving in crystal clear water. I'm not into that. It was a pity about Vinpearland!

Right: Another Catholic (I think) church which I passed on my way to the railway station. It was decorated 'Christmassly' and festooned with coloured changing lights at night. They really do take their Christmas decorations seriously.

Next off, by train, to Hue, the old Capital city and home to past Emperors.