BY TRAIN AGAIN TO UKRAINE

24th - 27th July 2023

Stephan Bandera monument. Lviv.

What a rip-off these 'cheapo' airlines are. Wizzair offered a very cheap flight from Porto to Warsaw provided your 'luggage' fits under the seat in front. I can't think many people travel with only a computer bag or similar. When you need to take on a normal sized 'cabin bag' (not in the hold) they almost double the price. The flight was unremarkable except for two children annoyingly and noisily running up and down the aisle. In my experience they should have been strapped into their seats for no other reason (apart from being a bloody nuisance) that if the aircraft hit turbulence they could be seriously hurt. The cabin crew should have realised this and done something about it. Then, much to my amusement, we did hit some serious unexpected turbulence and the little brats got a hell of a fright (if not injured). What were their parents thinking! They stayed firmly in their seats after that!

Anyway, I arrived at Warsaw Chopin airport and made my way to the Hotel Logos, near the river, where I was due to spend three nights. It was a cheap and decent small hotel. I spent the time revisiting old sights and places of refreshment. There were several very pleasant 'restaurant' boats moored on the river near my hotel which provided decent food and drink. I  visited Warsaw in May last year and wrote all about the place in my 'blog' then so will not bore you with a repeat.

Left: Just to note, I found another 'cannabis' emporium here in the city centre. I am surprised, as per the one in Lisbon, that this stuff is freely sold in these places. I doubt they would be allowed in UK!

I managed to get a rail ticket, via the south-eastern Polish border town of Przemyśl, to Lviv. These trains are almost all fully booked up. I made the error of not booking a return, and more about that later!

Right: Before I forget, there was this interesting 'robot' drink dispenser on the platform at Warsaw. I watched in fascination. After putting your money in and selecting a type of drink, the fully articulated machine span around, got a cup, poured out the drink then span back around and handed it to the customer through a hatch, and gave a little bow!

The train left Warsaw central at 5.25am (a bit early for me) on the 27th but I got there in good time. It was a 6 hour+ journey via Krakow to Przemyśl, arriving at 11.45am, but comfortable and relatively cheap. The Polish rail system is excellent with all mod-cons on board. The  train onwards to Lviv was due to depart at 1.45pm and we had to queue (me from 12.15pm) at the Polish customs office. And boy, was there a queue! After the incoming train had eventually disgorged its passengers I finally got through customs at 2.30pm, and there were many behind me. The train would not go until all were on board.

I shared a compartment with three Ukrainians, a charming 65yr old bloke, Petro, who had worked in the tourist industry, but been to a hospital in Poland for some medical treatment, and a mother and her daughter. They were going back to check on their houses and families before returning to Poland where, I presume, they had 'emigrated'. The train was full, and in my carriage there were only two men...me and Petro. 

Left: Petro spoke a bit of English, but the other two didn't. We managed to communicate (thanks to the daughter's i-phone) via Google Translate...a very useful tool. It was to be a 3 hour journey, and the Ukrainian customs, who boarded the train and took our passports, and thankfully returned them, were relatively quick and efficient. I got a nice smile from the customs officer. During the journey the mother produced a large bag of rations and made us all a splendid sandwich picnic. Very generous of her and so well organised! Coffee and tea were served by the train staff. 

We got into Lviv main station (right) at about 5.45pm. I thought I had better book a return ticket here and now. Problems! I was told it could only be done on the internet, not at the ticket desk. This website was all in Ukrainian. I got admirable assistance from a helpful guy at the information desk, who spoke good English. It eventually showed that all trains were fully booked up for long after I intended to leave. He suggested I get a bus ticket instead. Which I did, quite easily, from the bus terminal next door. It was cheap, and due to leave at 3.30pm on the 1st Aug and I was told it would arrive in Przemyśl at '8 o'clock'. Not bad, I thought. There is an interesting follow-on to this later.....!

Left: The sign on the platform subway at the station. I'm not sure if or when the 'shelter' was ever used, but it all added to the atmosphere. I subsequently discovered that there had never been a problem in the main part of the city. I believe some outlying districts had at, some point, attracted the attention of Russian missiles.

Right: There is a very efficient, easy to understand and cheap tram system (20p for a single journey of any distance but nobody seemed to check your ticket) around the city. It pays to look rather helpless at these times as I didn't have a city street map. A kind lady with her daughter on the tram said she was going to roughly the same area as me and offered to show me the way, which she did and actually took me past the hotel where I was due to stay. It is called the Ferenc, conveniently near the Old Town city centre. 

It is a magic 'boutique' hotel with very comfortable well equipped rooms (no BBC on the TV, but CNN and RT in English). I thought a bargain at £30 per night with breakfast thrown in. Left: And what a breakfast you get; several choices but the 'full English' was good enough for me, with unlimited coffee!

Right: The Glory Café, close to my hotel which became my local watering hole.

My initial impression; what a charming 'ye olde worlde' city. All the streets are cobbled and the architecture looks magnificent. It seems to have an abundance of street-side cafés and bars and restaurants and a proliferation of churches and cathedrals. The locals have been remarkably friendly and hospitable. And the weather, warm and sunny.

I will stop here now, as there are (according to my trusty guide book) a multitude of places to visit and things to see. I spent much time walking around the city and local area. I have got too many photos and it will take me some time to put them in order and try to remember what and where all the places are.

Stand-by for much more from Lviv..............