UP THE DOURO

20th - 23rd Jul 2023

Ponte de Luis 1 across the Douro

I went on a short, 1 hour, boat trip up and down the river. This was called the 'Six Bridges Tour' and, as the title implies, took us under the six bridges which span the Douro along the city reaches. The most impressive one being the Ponte de Luis 1 which carries road and rail traffic (and pedestrians). The other five serve pedestrians, cars or the Metro. The commentary on board gave lots of details, but I failed to take note.

Right: The Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar on the south bank. This vast monastery was built in the 16th century when becoming a monk was obviously a popular career choice. I'm not sure when it stopped being a monastery, but it was fortified and used to good effect by General Arthur Wellesley during the Peninsular War. He launched an attack from here on the French who were holding Porto at the time, and retook the city. Bravo! A bas les Français! It now still houses a working church and some military barracks and is a popular tourist attraction.

Also on the South bank are numerous port producers' headquarters and warehouses, such as this one, Sandeman's (left), together with many others including Cockburns, Taylors, Grahams and Dows. Their names are displayed on large hoardings. The port industry was seemingly invented by the British and many of these establishments are still British owned. I don't know the full story and can't be bothered to look it up! I'm not a port connoiseur and I didn't make a visit.

Right: There is also a cable car which runs along the south bank. I'm not sure what its purpose is; perhaps for tourists to get a good view of the river and port 'houses'?

At the western end the river runs out into  the Atlantic, at an area known as the Foz,  with many ports and touristy beaches to the north.

Having got my sea-legs (or river-legs) I decided to go on a day cruise up the river as far as the small town of Pinhao (about 80 miles east) to visit a vineyard there. We were to return by bus. I'm very wary of travelling on floating vessels having once nearly died of sea-sickness on a luxury yacht in the Mediterranean. The river was at least flat calm. We boarded this boat, HMS Rota do Douro at the Cais de Estiva at 8.30am. It looks as if it is sinking, but the quay/dock was high above the water.  It had two quite luxurious inside decks with dining tables and plenty of seating outside. We were allocated a table and served a decent breakfast by what turned out to be a very efficient set of waiters. My table was set for eight, but there were only four of us on it.

It (obviously) went under the same bridges as described previously before we left the city area. There was a good commentary on board in Portuguese, French and English. Right: At some point this rather larger boat overtook us. Lots of waving!

Left: We passed several very pretty little villages along the riverside.

Right:  Lunchtime. This was a superb three-course meal featuring soup, a large meat course with veg and roast potatoes and a very good chocolate pudding. We were given a whole bottle of red wine each!

Sometime in the afternoon we entered the wine growing area. Vineyards  with row upon row of grapes stretched endlessly across the low hills. Some had the names of the producer, or 'quinta' displayed on large hoardings. For miles, every bit of the landscape was covered with vines.

Right: At some point we encountered a large dam with a lock to one side. The ship had to get through this, and it was a fascinating excercise in precision steering. On entering the lock there was only about 6 inches of a gap between the sides of the ship and the walls. A ship's officer steered, with a delicate touch, the deckside  controls which operated sideways thrusting propellers (I presume). I watched in fascination. We got into the lock without a scratch. I expect he has done this many times!

Left: More vineyards.

At about 6.00pm we arrived at Pinhao (right) and disembarked to walk to the Croft port producing 'Quinta'. We were given a very technical talk on how the port was produced from grape-seed planting to bottle. It seemed very complicated and involved infusions of 'grappa' and much chemical treatment (anti-fungus/insect etc.). I'm afraid I was rather baffled. We were then given a 'tasting' session. I think it was 'rosé' port, and I hadn't realised there were so many varieties (Ruby, Tawny, White, Rosé and another which I have forgotten). Of course the place had a shop and many of my shipmates were buying rather expensive bottles of the stuff. I resisted.

We then boarded buses which took us, uneventfully, back to Porto arriving at about 9.00pm. It had been a most enjoyable day out. 

Left: The downstairs indoor  market 'mercado' on Rua de Fernandes Thomás ( near my hotel). It sold all sorts of the things indoor markets sell. 

I took a wander around and bought a banana.

Left: Around the passageways above, surrounding the market, were stalls offering wine (including port of course) tasting to sell their product. They were well patronised.

That about concludes my report from Porto. Of course there were many sights and interesting places I didn't have the time or energy to visit. I didn't make much mention of them but there are some marvellous cafés, restaurants and bars about the place which I frequented and enjoyed. My only criticism of the city is that the pavements are far too narrow. Busy with tourists, it is sometimes difficult to get a clear run along them without being stuck in a pedestrian jam. It reminded me of Venice in this respect!

Off to the airport tomorrow for a Wizzair flight to somewhere totally different.

Right: PS. I found this amusing photo on my camera, but can't for the life of me remember where I took it or what it is called. I think in Porto. Anyone know?