Saturday, 28 December 2024

A SPOT OF CULCHA - SAIGON

 21st - 25th Dec 2024

The Opera House, Lam Son Square, Saigon

The Opera House in the centre of town is a fine piece of architecture, as are many other 'French Colonial' era buildings in this city and countrywide. The French 'colonised' this part of the world (known as Indo-Chine) from 1887 until their disastrous defeat at the hands of Ho Chi Minh and his Việt Minh forces following the battles at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. The Americans should have learnt something from this but, typically, didn't! Despite all the controversial, often brutal, treatment the French dished out to Vietnamese nationalists, they did at least leave behind not only some splendid buildings, but a lasting infrastructure of roads, railway, waterways and other urban facilities. Indeed the French were instrumental in forming the now common Vietnamese language; initiated by a French Jesuit missionary priest, Alexander de Rhodes, in the 18th century. Originally the area had a multitude of regional languages of Chinese, Khmer, Sanskrit origin all written with their individual 'characters'. Consequently, thanks to the French, Vietnamese is the only language in this part of the world written in 'Roman' script and features many words taken from French (ie. 'va li' for suitcase, bõ (pronounced buerre) for butter and 'ga' for railway station, amongst others). Although the words look easy to pronounce, they are not because little squiggles and diacritics above and below the letters alter the pronunciation and meaning, and it is a 'tonal' language. The word for 'chicken' is 'gà' and, as mentioned, for railway station is 'ga' but pronounced very slightly differently. I once had a devil of a job in a supermarket trying to find some chicken and was constantly being directed to the railway station despite desperately miming a chicken! They just laughed and thought I was mad. The Vietnamese would not be very good at the 'miming' game of Charades.

Anyway, I decided to go and see what was on at the Opera House. A performance of something called 'Ao' was  currently on show. I bought a ticket (cheap seats at the back of course...and they weren't that cheap) for the 6.00pm show. It was to be an extraordinary performance.

Left: Looking towards the stage. This was before the house filled up.






Right: Looking towards the rear and it was a full house by 'curtain up'. It is as elegant a building inside as it is outside. Vive La France, reluctantly.

The performance was incredible. I wish I could have taken some photos/videos but we were strongly warned against doing so and there were 'ushers' around who might have caught any 'transgressor' such as myself. Even I resisted the temptation for fear of being chucked out.

How to describe the show? It was a based on the rice harvest (I think) and involved a large cast (I counted 25 at the end line up) and many props including long heavy bamboo poles, ladders, enormous, and some small, rice baskets, flying discs and many other strange objects together with a twangy musical background from various instruments. It included spectacular juggling, acrobatics, contortionists, mime, dancing, gymnastics, balancing, magical illusions and a humorous sketch in the middle. It was a non-stop athletic performance, most intricately choreographed with impressive lighting effects and all quite breathtaking! It lasted just over an hour and made even me feel exhausted at by end. They had another performance to do later that evening! I was impressed, to say the least.

Left: The front of the Opera House as the audience was leaving.






Right: This kissing couple were being photographed (just after the show) as a pre-wedding photo which is a common convention in this country. There are many such seen around town daily! Who do they show them to I wondered? Probably just for the family album.




Left: A favourite watering hole of mine near the city centre is called The Refinery. It is in a courtyard off a main street. Its name originates from when (19th century?) it was an opium refinery and catered for the then fashionable habit of relaxing with an opium pipe. It now serves good food and drink but not, as far as I am aware, opium.




Right: I met the son of a British friend of mine there for lunch. He is an enterprising chap and has been in Vietnam for two years teaching English to Vietnamese students. 




Left: The (proposed) Ho Chi Minh City Metro Map. The city has been in the process of building an underground Metro system for at least ten years. It has been, I believe, backed by some Japanese finance. I thought they managed to get things done quickly here! Anyway, the first line, L1, from Lam Son Square, was indeed opened and operational earlier this month and shown in blue here (left). The many other 'planned' lines on this map will, maybe, follow in due course. I asked the info desk "when?" and received a non-committal shrug of the shoulders.

Right: The smart new entry to the platforms for Line 1 at Lam Son Square. Not many passengers yet, but I expect it will catch on.
It might, with luck, even take some of the cars and buses off the streets. The most important line, in my opinion, would be one to the airport, but maybe the taxis and buses will object strongly!
Left: The entry to the Metro at Lam Son Square. There is only this long steep three-stage staircase. There is no escalator or lift (that I could see). If you are in a wheelchair or cannot walk for any reason then, frankly, you are stuffed!






Right: Cockerels in cages along a street. They were making quite a noise. Why were they there? Are they on a menu? I don't think so……I will try to find out.













Left: Another streetside entrepreneur! This talented chap was making intricate models of flowers and creatures out of strips of bamboo. 








Right: On a visit to the city Post Office (another impressive piece of French architecture which I have shown and described on previous blogs) I was asked by this man to have my photo taken with him. He had been taking photos of his girlfriend holding those flags. She was infinitely more photogenic than me….so not quite sure why!

Following these snapshots of Saigon I am off next for a visit to the sprawling seaside town of Vung Tau, on the coast to the east. I've been there briefly before but thought I would spend New Year's Eve there to see what they make of it. I 'did' NYE in Saigon last year which was fun, but feel I need to branch out a bit! So, to you all:  CHÚC MỪNG NĂM MỚI !!

Thursday, 26 December 2024

A BRUSH WITH DEATH - SAIGON

 21st - 25th Dec 2024

A modern-day street scene in Saigon

The road traffic around this city has become a nightmare! When I first came here, about 18 years ago, 80% of the traffic was 'motos' (scooters), 15% push-bikes (bicycles) and 5% four-wheeled vehicles (cars, buses etc.). Now it is 50% motos and 50% cars (often large and expensive ones driven arrogantly!), buses etc. Rarely, if ever, do you see a bicycle. Back then there were few traffic lights and no marked pedestrian crossings. You could cross a street anywhere through a non-stop stream of motos by walking steadily across and the motos would just flow harmlessly around you without batting an eyelid. NOT NOW !!!!

There are now traffic and pedestrian crossing lights at all major street intersections. There are pedestrian crossings marked on the road; always four surrounding the main street crossings and others, at random, across streets elsewhere. Drivers pay absolutely no heed to pedestrian crossings! If you chose to adopt the old policy of walking steadily across a street the motos would avoid you but a car or bus would or could not.

Left: A 'random' pedestrian crossing which is not worth the cost of the paint. They are disregarded by all drivers.




Right: Just an example of a street junction, normally with traffic  and pedestrian lights. This one links two one way streets. I was crossing one of these, with lights (not this one) a few days ago. Note the black line on the right. This is to demonstrate my route, top to bottom, that I took when the traffic across the street to my front was held at red lights. The other street, top to bottom, was on 'green'. As I reached the middle of the crossing a bus (unseen by me) had come speeding down the left-hand lane from behind me and turned sharp left (roughly where that truck is in the photo). The front left side of the bus hit me with a bang! I was sent sprawling but my right foot went under the front wheel of the bus! I managed to get up, rather shaken and a bit stirred, with a painful right foot. The bus had stopped. Give him some credit, the bus driver got out, came around, apologised profusely and hoped that I was OK. I think he was panicking a bit and maybe expecting to find a corpse! Apart from a badly bruised foot and some scrapes on my arm and leg, I was relatively unscathed. On reflection the point made is two-fold: 1. If I had been a pace further on over the crossing I would have gone under the bus with undoubtedly much more serious, perhaps catastrophic, injuries, or worse! 2. If that had been the case what would have happened next? Presumably I would have been carted off to a hospital (and they do have excellent hospitals and doctors here) or a mortuary! Once there who would they contact and what then? I am travelling alone so there is nobody else with me to help. I was carrying my passport (and credit card and this laptop) so I assume they could get in touch with the British Embassy in Hanoi. Then what? I am insured but, lots of 'buts'......
Anyway, it was a salutary warning. I have travelled the world, mostly 'solo', over the past 14 years and have never suffered an occurrence involving illness or injury before this. Maybe I was getting complacent! This incident has given me much cause for thought.

Enough of my woes and misfortune. On with more jolly topics......

I decided, being of generous disposition, to pay a visit to two (respectable I hasten to add!) ladies who provided accommodation for me and other colleagues when I worked here, and take them a Christmas present.
I visited this shop, Annam Gourmet, in the city centre. It is Saigon's equivalent of London's Fortnum&Mason and does provide a vast array of upmarket Western style goods. I bought two boxes of expensive chocolates.


One visit was to a very smart restaurant in District 2 in the south of the city. The other to a large guesthouse in Tan Binh District to the north of the city. 
The restaurant is owned by Mme Phoung who, together with her late husband Giles, accommodated us in their most charming restaurant/guesthouse many years ago. Giles was a sommelier in a French restaurant before moving to Vietnam and marrying Phuong. He died about 5 years ago. Phuong now manages a 5 star establishment called 'Trois Gourmands'. Google it if you are interested!
The other lady, Mme Thu, operates the large guesthouse in Tan Binh district, and is/was married to a retired Colonel who served in the South Vietnamese army during the 'war', and then served time incarcerated as a result. Both these locations are about 3 miles from the city centre so involved transport.

I use two forms of transport, both excellent, to travel around town if it's not practical to walk. As mentioned before, I am allergic to taxis!
Right: The first is operated by a company called 'Grab' (similar to Uber) for which I have an 'App' on my phone. They provide both car and 'moto' (scooter) transport and can be called and get to you very promptly. I much prefer the 'moto' variety because they are remarkably cheap and whizz you (safely and efficiently so far) through the appalling traffic much quicker than a car; up on the pavements if necesary. Of course they would be banned in UK on Elf' n Safety grounds. Right: My recent Grab 'chauffeur'.
I also use the city buses. Once you have got the hang of the routes (and I have a route map) they are very regular and reliable (when not running over pedestrians that is!) and cheap (20 pence equiv. for most journeys within the large city area).

Left: First by Grab scooter to Mme Phuong's restaurant (I could never afford to eat there). Unfortunately she was not in, but a colleague of hers was, whom I knew from the old days, so I delivered the chocs and got a free glass of 'posh' wine in return. We recounted old times.






Next day to Mme Thu (right) in Tan Binh district by bus. She was, apparently, thrilled to see me after so many years and we reminisced about the time I, and some disreputable colleagues, lived there. The Vietnamese have remarkable memories and she reminded me about various 'episodes' which I had, probably with good reason, forgotten!









Left: My local hostelry near the Thien Hai Hotel. A very 'festive' place at this time of year. Waitresses all wearing Santa Claus hats!






Right: A typical 'al fresco' streetside restaurant which come alive late in the evenings. They are popular and provide delicious Vietnamese food at very affordable prices (no inside restaurant overheads I presume).

This is written, albeit not transmitted, on Christmas Day......and I'm off for a bit more entertainment this evening. Several other previous things to report on....stand-by!

Tuesday, 24 December 2024

AROUND SAIGON AGAIN

19th - 24th Dec 2024

A fond 'festive' welcome from dear old 'Uncle Ho' (decd)


I spent a few days just wandering around the town revisiting old haunts. As mentioned in the previous blog I will have little to show you that I have not already covered in several other blogs over the years (ie. Christmas and NYE decorations and 'festivities)'; so just a few snapshots of recent sights and experiences. As before the locals make the most of Christmas even though they have little understanding of its origin. Who cares! The shop and bar girls wear Santa Claus hats and reindeer horns, the sounds of 'Jinger Bells', 'We Wiss Yoo a Melly Clissmas', 'Santa Claus is Coming to Town', 'Rudolph and his blasted Reindeers' and, most of all, interminably, 'Felice Navidad' ring out from most shopping establishments down the streets.

Left. Even the cars sport 'festive' decorations (including a red nose!). I can't think reindeer have ever featured largely amongst the fauna of this country.





Right: On a visit to the very smart Caravelle Hotel on the central Lam Son Square, I witnessed, by chance, this childrens' choir performing. They had a very large repertoire of our Chrismassy songs and performed magnificently. A moving performance and the wee lad on the right with his 'jingle bells' was impressive.

popped up to the 9th floor roof-top bar, an old haunt, where the Cuban ladies sing and band perform (Wednesdays to Sundays 9.00pm onwards). They were at it again and even encouraged a few dancers onto the floor. A rather 'rotund' Russian lady whom I later found out was called Valentina, dragged her somewhat reluctant 'partner' up and they 'strutted their stuff' enthusiastically. If this shaky video works you will notice that I became a little distracted in the middle of it and my fingers slipped on the controls. Valentina insisted that I sent her a copy. She was actually a most amusing lady.

I decided to take a short river cruise up and down the Saigon River. It was only to be for an hour or so, and we were welcomed aboard by a violinist and Father Christmas (right).




Left: ...and the Skipper and his crew. A somewhat eleborate welcome for such a short trip.




Right: I sat on the top deck (at small extra cost) for a better view.






Left: We passed this enormous hulk called 'Elisa' which, it turns out, is a very large upmarket and expensive restaurant and banqueting venue. I think I had seen it before but paid little attention.








We were serenaded en-route by the talented violinist.

Whilst recording a loudspeaker blasting out yet another version of 'Felice Navidad' I was interrupted by Santa Claus handing out presents!

 

Right: Here he is, generously doling out gifts to all. We were also given coconuts with straws stuck in them for liquid refreshment. All most impressive for what was a relatively inexpensive trip; but all done in the Christmas spirit and much appreciated!


Left: My gift. I shall treasure it. It shall be put to good use I have no doubt.







Right: Proudly displaying my little bear on the way back to the quay. 

For some reason I have been having a hell of a job downloading these short videos via the YouTube site. Maybe because of my technical shortcomings, but cannot see if they work until I 'publish' this. So hoping for the best.

More trivia to follow......

....and I hope you all have a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Wishful thinking perhaps.




Saturday, 21 December 2024

CHREXIT 24

 21st Dec 2024 (Sahagun Day!)

So, back in Vietnam to avoid the 'Festive' Season in UK. Bah humbug again! I don't intend to do much 'blogging' from here this time as I have already bored my long suffering reader to death with many previous reports and photos from this lovely country.

I flew here, 'cattle class' of course, with Air India from London Heathrow via a transfer (with a 10 hour hold-over!) in Delhi. The flights themselves were fine; not too much queueing at Heathrow, smack on time and with decent cabin service albeit on the 8 hour leg from Heathrow I was sitting in a centre seat at the very rear of the aircraft sandwiched between two perfectly polite but rather large Indian gentlemen. We were the last seats to be served any rations and the plane, an Airbus 350, was packed full. There was a very decent 'entertainments' console in front of you and an unlimited supply of complimentary drinks which helped to pass the time. BUT I was subjected to a very infuriating occurrence. I will, if only to get it off my chest, regale you (and probably stupify you) with a background story. As you can tell I have time on my hands at the moment sitting in a lovely rooftop café in Saigon!

In early 2013 I was living in a small flat in London. One day my CD player packed up (for those not as elderly as me, a CD player is an electronic contraption which plays musical discs). I took it to a charming and efficient Indian electronics mender, Ali, whom I had used previously. He rang me up two days later to tell me he had fixed it. He then asked me "do you smoke?". I thought this was rather an impertinent and irrelevant question and said so, but admitted that I did smoke, about 15 a day, mainly in the evenings. What other personal habits was he going to investigate I wondered. "Ahaaa", he said, no doubt with a little wobble of the head, "that explains it. The lenses in your CD player were covered in tar from cigarette smoke and I cleaned them. That was the problem and I fixed it". That gave me cause to think, and act. I took a white kitchen towel and wiped all the glass surfaces in my front room, ie. pictures, windows, TV screen etc. The towel became covered with sticky black/brown gunge! Indeed the picture quality on the TV was much improved as a result. I presumed that this gluey tar was also in all the seat covers, curtains, carpets and, more significantly, in my lungs! I gave up smoking that day and haven't touched a cigarette since, thanks to Ali.

I found I did miss the occasional relaxing puff on a fag and started nibbling too many snacks and became somewhat irritable. I suppose I had become a bit of a nicotine addict and smoking had become a habit. About a year later I discovered e-cigarettes. After  much experimentation I found a device and a vape liquid (I tried many, some of  them tasted revolting) which I liked. Puffing this entirely replaced the yearning for a cigarette. More significantly the vapour, which did have nicotine content, did not contain any tar or other 'solids' as in smoke. As an experiment I inhaled this vapour through a white tissue and there was absolutey no residue. Secondly, the cost. A packet of cigarettes costs nowadays anything between £15 -£18, so if you smoke 20 a day it woud set you back about £500 per month! I paid about £25 for my e-ciggy and buy the juice from a Poundland shop in little plastic bottles for £1 each. Each 10ml bottle will last me 3 days (total £10 per month), so an enormous financial saving. Thirdly, I wake up in the mornings free from the previous coughing and spluttering to rid my lungs of the gunge from smoking. I have, as far as I am aware, suffered no ill effects from vaping which I have now done for over 10 years and find it very relaxing. Fourthly, significantly, the vapour (stating the obvious perhaps) evaporates. I once shared a small sleeper compartment with three friends and asked them if they minded if I did a bit of vaping and to tell me if it irritated them. They said they never even noticed any smell, or indeed anything. Sure, if you blow the vapour into someones face at close range they will smell it, but over a couple of feet the smell and vapour just vanishes. I have taken my trusty e-cigarette with me on all my many travels, including by air, and never encountered any problems. I put my e-cig in the 'liquid bags' going through airports' security and never had anyone comment let alone object. Yes, I am now a happy vaping addict, but as far as I can see it does not do me, nor anyone else, any harm. So why am I telling you all this?

Well! On arrival in foggy Delhi (much polution which is probably equally as unhealthy as tobacco smoke) I had to go through 'transit' to the gate for the onward flight to Ho Chi Minh City with Air India again. There was a security check (why? I was in transit) with the normal X-ray machines to negotiate. I was the only passenger there. The rather officious security wallah made me take out all my electric items, including the plugs, leads and even my electric toothbrush....and I had quite a lot of similar items scattered in my cabin bag and backpack. I thought I was bound to lose something vital here. I asked about liquids and he said he wasn't interested in those. Several trays then went into the X-ray machine and he suddenly shouted "you have an e-cigarette?". I said "yes, it's in my liquids bag". "You cannot take this on aircraft" he snapped. "Why not" I asked reasonably, I thought, as it had come here checked in on an Air India flight. "No, you cannot, it is not allowed. I take and put in bin". I was somewhat cross at this unexpected problem. I could not get him to explain why e-cigarettes are banned on Indian flights. "It is the rule" was all I could get out of him. I was, to say the least, somewhat angry and pissed-off but there was no arguing unless I risked being arrested! Before he put in his bin, and with his permission, I smashed it so nobody else could benefit from this theft. Disaster, for a keen vaping addict; I had lost my e-ciggy after having it problem free it for several years. I have yet to find out the reason for this ridiculous regulation in India. As it happens, I have been referred to a small paragraph hidden in a long e-mail listing the normal prohibited items (ie. firearms, knives, explosive devices and nuclear weapons) from Air India that mentions the ban on e-cigarettes but I hadn't noticed it of course. As a matter of interest they also confiscated a very small pair of nail-scissors which I had been able to take on other flights because they were less than 2 inches long and had  specifically rounded and blunted points to allow (previously) carriage on aircraft. Hardly a threat to life or limb. As you can imagine I was by now not a very happy passenger and not a great supporter of Air India. I am waiting, eagerly for once, for the inevitable airline 'survey' for me to complete. 

On getting to the very elegant departures hall I had intended to pay for and use one of the VIP lounges (I've done this before elsewhere and found them excellent value for long hold-overs) as I had, by now, an 8 hour wait for my ongoing flight. There are two of these lounges and I was told you could pay ($45 or equivalent) but only for a two hour period, then you had to leave and pay again to get back in. Bollocks to that! I then found a comfortable seat in a pleasant Irish Bar called 'The Irish House' which had 'free' WiFi but only if you had an Indian telephone number to register. Fortunately, sitting near me was a charming and helpful Russian chap who, working in Delhi, had an Indian telephone number, so he logged me on.

I noticed that there was a very large and quite comfortable 'smoking area' in the vicinity. There may have been more. It was well populated by enthusiastic smokers (not vapers obviously). I begin to wonder why smoking is allowed (and cigarettes feature prominently in the Duty Free shops) but vaping is demonised. My cynical view is that it is all about money (as always). Governments take a lot of tax on tobacco but seemingly don't or can't on vapes. It pays them to encourage smokers.

We arrived in Ho Chi Minh at 7.45pm (Local), 15 minutes early. Unfortunately there was a vast horde with interminable queues packing the passport control hall at Arrivals. I was at the back and it looked as if it would take, literally, hours to get through. I adopted my tried and trusted procedure which involves walking around the outside of the queues and then just inserting myself near the front. Waving to an imaginary friend or family helps. It works! People, being somewhat passive and not wishing to cause a fuss,  don't seem to notice or care. 

I got to my small hotel by taxi at about 10.00pm, a charming and comfortable place called Thien Hai Hotel which I have used frequently before. It is well located in the centre of Town. The Vietnamese have good memories and I was greeted like a friend of the family! This small hotel has all mod-cons including a vast TV in the room which actually shows BBC World News (amongst 200 other channels) just to irritate me, charming staff and includes a delicious breakfast. Cost? £21 per night! You could never find such an amazing bargain in any country in the West. Indeed all hospitality in the many excellent hotels, bars and restaurants is above and beyong anything we put up with in UK. There are always plenty of enthusiastic smartly turned-out staff who seem to take great pleasure in serving customers well. They are all ethnic Vietnamese and proud of it.....no DEI crap here. 

I mentioned I used a taxi from the airport. As readers of my previous blogs may be aware, I am normally allergic to rip-off taxis, and there are many such in Ho Chi Minh. Outside arrivals at the airport, there are scores of taxis and many touts (either official or unofficial) trying to get your trade....and indeed rip you off. There are buses to the city centre but I wasn't prepared to hang about for one of those at this time of night. If you ever visit this airport I can give you a taxi tip. On exiting the arrivals hall, disregard all the touts and queues. Walk past all and go left to the far (back) end of the lines of taxis. There are two 'honest' taxi companies to use; Vinasun and Mailin. Find one of those and ask for a rough estimate of cost saying (phonetically) "chi phi la bao new" which helps to avoid any misunderstanding. The 5 mile journey through heavy traffic (a new, increasingly unpleasant feature in this city) cost me, on a trustworthy meter, £5 equiv. Using a tout or other taxi may cost you four times as much.

There are several vape shops in the city, at the moment. The next day I found one nearby and was sold a perfectly adequate replacement e-ciggy (but not as good as my stolen one) by the helpful chap behind the counter. He spoke good English and sympathised with my experience with Air India. Fortunately I still had my supply of my favourite vape juice. I'm surprised and relieved that that wasn't confiscated as well. Interestingly he told me that the Viet Government intended to ban vape shops, if not vaping entirely, but certainly not tobacco outlets. He agreed with my premise that Governments benefit enormously from tax on cigarettes and vaping merely impacts unfavourably on that. So much for caring about health issues! I think the same can be said of most hypocritical Governments...it's the money that matters

That will do for the time being....if you have bothered to read all this I hope it didn't cause drooping eyelids.