A BRUSH WITH DEATH - SAIGON

 21st - 25th Dec 2024

A modern-day street scene in Saigon

The road traffic around this city has become a nightmare! When I first came here, about 18 years ago, 80% of the traffic was 'motos' (scooters), 15% push-bikes (bicycles) and 5% four-wheeled vehicles (cars, buses etc.). Now it is 50% motos and 50% cars (often large and expensive ones driven arrogantly!), buses etc. Rarely, if ever, do you see a bicycle. Back then there were few traffic lights and no marked pedestrian crossings. You could cross a street anywhere through a non-stop stream of motos by walking steadily across and the motos would just flow harmlessly around you without batting an eyelid. NOT NOW !!!!

There are now traffic and pedestrian crossing lights at all major street intersections. There are pedestrian crossings marked on the road; always four surrounding the main street crossings and others, at random, across streets elsewhere. Drivers pay absolutely no heed to pedestrian crossings! If you chose to adopt the old policy of walking steadily across a street the motos would avoid you but a car or bus would or could not.

Left: A 'random' pedestrian crossing which is not worth the cost of the paint. They are disregarded by all drivers.

Right: Just an example of a street junction, normally with traffic  and pedestrian lights. This one links two one way streets. I was crossing one of these, with lights (not this one) a few days ago. Note the black line on the right. This is to demonstrate my route, top to bottom, that I took when the traffic across the street to my front was held at red lights. The other street, top to bottom, was on 'green'. As I reached the middle of the crossing a bus (unseen by me) had come speeding down the left-hand lane from behind me and turned sharp left (roughly where that truck is in the photo). The front left side of the bus hit me with a bang! I was sent sprawling but my right foot went under the front wheel of the bus! I managed to get up, rather shaken and a bit stirred, with a painful right foot. The bus had stopped. Give him some credit, the bus driver got out, came around, apologised profusely and hoped that I was OK. I think he was panicking a bit and maybe expecting to find a corpse! Apart from a badly bruised foot and some scrapes on my arm and leg, I was relatively unscathed. On reflection the point made is two-fold: 1. If I had been a pace further on over the crossing I would have gone under the bus with undoubtedly much more serious, perhaps catastrophic, injuries, or worse! 2. If that had been the case what would have happened next? Presumably I would have been carted off to a hospital (and they do have excellent hospitals and doctors here) or a mortuary! Once there who would they contact and what then? I am travelling alone so there is nobody else with me to help. I was carrying my passport (and credit card and this laptop) so I assume they could get in touch with the British Embassy in Hanoi. Then what? I am insured but, lots of 'buts'......

Anyway, it was a salutary warning. I have travelled the world, mostly 'solo', over the past 14 years and have never suffered an occurrence involving illness or injury before this. Maybe I was getting complacent! This incident has given me much cause for thought.

Enough of my woes and misfortune. On with more jolly topics......

I decided, being of generous disposition, to pay a visit to two (respectable I hasten to add!) ladies who provided accommodation for me and other colleagues when I worked here, and take them a Christmas present.

I visited this shop, Annam Gourmet, in the city centre. It is Saigon's equivalent of London's Fortnum&Mason and does provide a vast array of upmarket Western style goods. I bought two boxes of expensive chocolates.

One visit was to a very smart restaurant in District 2 in the south of the city. The other to a large guesthouse in Tan Binh District to the north of the city. 

The restaurant is owned by Mme Phoung who, together with her late husband Giles, accommodated us in their most charming restaurant/guesthouse many years ago. Giles was a sommelier in a French restaurant before moving to Vietnam and marrying Phuong. He died about 5 years ago. Phuong now manages a 5 star establishment called 'Trois Gourmands'. Google it if you are interested!

The other lady, Mme Thu, operates the large guesthouse in Tan Binh district, and is/was married to a retired Colonel who served in the South Vietnamese army during the 'war', and then served time incarcerated as a result. Both these locations are about 3 miles from the city centre so involved transport.

I use two forms of transport, both excellent, to travel around town if it's not practical to walk. As mentioned before, I am allergic to taxis!

Right: The first is operated by a company called 'Grab' (similar to Uber) for which I have an 'App' on my phone. They provide both car and 'moto' (scooter) transport and can be called and get to you very promptly. I much prefer the 'moto' variety because they are remarkably cheap and whizz you (safely and efficiently so far) through the appalling traffic much quicker than a car; up on the pavements if necesary. Of course they would be banned in UK on Elf' n Safety grounds. Right: My recent Grab 'chauffeur'.

I also use the city buses. Once you have got the hang of the routes (and I have a route map) they are very regular and reliable (when not running over pedestrians that is!) and cheap (20 pence equiv. for most journeys within the large city area).

Left: First by Grab scooter to Mme Phuong's restaurant (I could never afford to eat there). Unfortunately she was not in, but a colleague of hers was, whom I knew from the old days, so I delivered the chocs and got a free glass of 'posh' wine in return. We recounted old times.

Next day to Mme Thu (right) in Tan Binh district by bus. She was, apparently, thrilled to see me after so many years and we reminisced about the time I, and some disreputable colleagues, lived there. The Vietnamese have remarkable memories and she reminded me about various 'episodes' which I had, probably with good reason, forgotten!

Left: My local hostelry near the Thien Hai Hotel. A very 'festive' place at this time of year. Waitresses all wearing Santa Claus hats!

Right: A typical 'al fresco' streetside restaurant which come alive late in the evenings. They are popular and provide delicious Vietnamese food at very affordable prices (no inside restaurant overheads I presume).

This is written, albeit not transmitted, on Christmas Day......and I'm off for a bit more entertainment this evening. Several other previous things to report on....stand-by!

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