Our route over two weeks from Pano (via towns in yellow) as far east, eventually, as the festival in Ura (180 miles)....and back.
Before we left Thimphu I discovered that towns in Bhutan do not have any traffic lights. Traffic is controlled, successfully, by rather balletic traffic marshals. I noticed, in general, drivers here are very well behaved! See vid below.
We were off early from Thimphu after breakfast for what was to be a long day's drive east, with several stops en-route, eventually to Gangtey. Our comfortable mini-bus was designed to seat 15 people so the six of us all had window seats to ourselves...best to see over the sheer precipices nerve-tinglingly close to the side of the bus. Sonam at the front had a microphone to keep us all informed. We were to spend a lot of time in this bus.
Left: Passing below the Buddha statue on the way out of town.
The road zig-zagged up the forested valley hillsides (72% of Bhutan is forest) with numerous hairpin bends. In general the valley bottoms were at 7,000ft amsl and rose to cross the passes at over 10,000ft. The roads were mostly asphalt and in excellent condition, but some had stretches of dirt track, especially at the tops, where construction was still underway. It was slow going at times. Our driver, Tensin, coped with all this most admirably.
We first stopped at the Dochula Pass (at 10,100ft) where there is the Druk Wangyal Chortens Memorial site (right). This is a collection of 108 stupas which was built in 2003-4 to honour the 11 Royal Bhutan Army soldiers who were killed in the 2003 military operation which soundly defeated an Indian insurgency.
Why 108 stupas? Before we go on, some info on 'sacred' Buddhist numbers:
Sacred or holy numbers in Bhutanese Buddhism, which is deeply rooted in Vajrayana and Tibetan traditions, signify aspects of spiritual completion, the Buddha's teachings, and cosmological balance.
108: The most sacred number, representing 108 volumes of the Buddha's teachings (the Kangyur) and the 108 earthly desires/temptations one must overcome to achieve nirvana. Malas (prayer beads) in Bhutan typically have 108 beads, and holy places often use this number for stupas (chortens) or prayer flags, such as at Dochu La Pass.
13: Considered highly auspicious, representing the perfection of merit and virtue, often seen in the thirteen stories of structures like the Potala Palace.
8: Symbolizes the Noble Eightfold Path (the "Middle Way" to Nirvana) and is represented by the 8 Lucky Symbols (Ashtamangala) commonly seen in art and architecture.
7: A number strongly associated with life and death in folk Buddhism, often used to calculate rituals for the dead (e.g., 7 or 49 days).
5: Signifies the five sacred elements forming building blocks of the environment (earth, water, fire, air, and sky), represented in the five colors of prayer flags.
3: Represents the "Triple Gem" (or Three Jewels) central to Buddhist faith: the Buddha (teacher), the Dharma (teachings), and the Sangha (community).
9: Often associated with the 9th day of the month forceremonies and the nine-step path in some meditations.
These numbers are frequently used in daily life, such as in prayer, architecture, and the timing of religious ceremonies.
Left: This sign describes the conflict. Click on to enlarge and read.
There is a café here which was most welcome. Right a pic of the stupas from it.
It had a smoking area outside which, from the look of this photo (left), was very well used!
Right: There is also a temple (Lhakhang) into which we were taken. It is big inside. 'No shoes-No photos' again. Apparently it is Bhutan's newest. It is incredibly elaborately decorated inside with the mandatory large golden Buddha flanked by Guru Rinpoche, the 8th century reincarnation of Buddha born from a lotus flower, and the 17th century iconic ruler Zhabdrung. There were many beautifully and intricately painted murals depicting various Buddhist beliefs of Heaven and Hell and all in between. Sonam spent a long time describing all their meanings.
We then drove on east up and over another pass or two and stopped at a vegetable market for a breather and coffee. There was a shop there and these were on display for sale (left). I think I mentioned phalluses (or is it phalli) in the previous at the museum in Thimphu. They are obviously considered 'must have' items and in demand! I bought and ate two bananas.
....and before I forget, this little (depending on your standard) willy was hanging from the rear view mirror in our minibus! For protection and good luck, so Tensin told me.
Left: A local filling his water can.
Right: We passed this troop of monkeys on the way. Forgotten what kind. Indeed the hills are supposedly home to various exotic creatures. I mentioned 'takins' earlier but there are also supposedly leopards, Bengal tigers, black bears, red pandas, deer and wild boar amongst many smaller creatures. More about those later in these reports.
Left: Rivers. There are many large and small rivers throughout the country. They are 'glacial' and the water is very clear and clean and all look most attractive. They are home to lots of fish, including brown trout. I asked about fishing. Apparently fishing is not allowed anywhere. This is all part of the Buddhist law that you must never kill any living creature. I asked how then did we get fed meat and fish at the hotels. Ahaa, I was told, that comes from India. Indeed many, if not most, Bhutanese are vegetarian.
Finally over the Lawala Pass into the vast Phobjikha Valley and to Gangtey at 5.45pm. To the Dewachen Hotel for a rest and supper. I must say, the bedrooms, food and service in these hotels was impeccable. All bags were always carried for us to our rooms. They look after their guests supremely well. Right: An example of one the bedrooms I stayed in (can't remember which) but they were all of a similar high standard. We also spent some nights in what they call 'HomeStays' which are basically people's private houses which take guests. More about those later.
Overnight there was much rumbling of thunder and flickering lightening, and woken up at 5.00am by a mighty crash of thunder which sounded like a gun going off in the room. The Land of the Thunder Dragon was beginning to live up to its name!
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